pipe that is pressed in

[boomerang]

If it's the pipe leaking and it's not at the seam where it meets the manifold, you might consider taking a wire wheel to it and then patching it up with some sheet brass/aluminum with solder, depending on the material. Welding something that thin is tricky and requires an experienced welder with the right kind of welder (tig). If the bad part is far enough out, you could cut the pipe leaving 1/4" behind, then pay a professional welder to butt or collar weld on a new extension if the material doesn't lend itself to soldering. Or just scuff up the remaining lip you leave and JB Weld an extension collar depending on how ghetto you want to be and how much it's worth to you.

Again the problem is that pipe is a specific part of that make and model. Even if you get it out, what are you going to replace it with? You can find coolant hose fittings in various industry standard flanges, pipe thread sizes, etc, but you're likely not going to find anything that exactly press fits in exactly like the old one did.

That's pretty crappy though, aluminum manifold and another metal insert, both current flowing through them from the chassis ground D:

Good advice but I can't agree with the JB Weld part. That's never going to hold up with the engine rocking as it revs. The radiator is solidly mounted and there is only so much flex to a radiator hose. Combine it with heating and cooling cycles and it's a disaster waiting to happen.

Electrolysis was a contributing factor no doubt, but more than likely neglect of regular coolant flushes did it in. The rust inhibitors break down over time.

Edit: Looks like the manifold would have to be removed to do the welding. Might just be better off to replace it while it's off. Pretty much a guaranteed fix that way.

 

[7window]

Definitely cannot weld steel to aluminum, but if you can figure out what alloy the manifold is you could weld an aluminum pipe to it.

good option!! I might try that.

"Good advice but I can't agree with the JB Weld part. That's never going to hold up with the engine rocking as it revs. The radiator is solidly mounted and there is only so much flex to a radiator hose. Combine it with heating and cooling cycles and it's a disaster waiting to happen.

Electrolysis was a contributing factor no doubt, but more than likely neglect of regular coolant flushes did it in. The rust inhibitors break down over time.

Edit: Looks like the manifold would have to be removed to do the welding. Might just be better off to replace it while it's off. Pretty much a guaranteed fix that way. Today 03:57 PM"

JB weld it for 7 months and now started leaking again. Hard to weld in that area. Have to take it off and weld.

Originally Posted by exdeath
If it's the pipe leaking and it's not at the seam where it meets the manifold, you might consider taking a wire wheel to it and then patching it up with some sheet brass/aluminum with solder, depending on the material. Welding something that thin is tricky and requires an experienced welder with the right kind of welder (tig). If the bad part is far enough out, you could cut the pipe leaving 1/4" behind, then pay a professional welder to butt or collar weld on a new extension if the material doesn't lend itself to soldering. Or just scuff up the remaining lip you leave and JB Weld an extension collar depending on how ghetto you want to be and how much it's worth to you.

Again the problem is that pipe is a specific part of that make and model. Even if you get it out, what are you going to replace it with? You can find coolant hose fittings in various industry standard flanges, pipe thread sizes, etc, but you're likely not going to find anything that exactly press fits in exactly like the old one did.

That's pretty crappy though, aluminum manifold and another metal insert, both current flowing through them from the chassis ground D:

I have to replace the pipe all the way into the manifold. The pipe looks really rough from rust. I might find a aluminum pipe so that it could be welded together.

 

[JCH13]

If you get it welded, take it to a good shop, not the cheapest. Welding cast aluminum is tricky business and not everyone can do it right. Even after it's welded up you may want to apply some serious epoxy on the inside seam to seal it up. No JB weld crappy stuff, 3M DP 420 is what you use if you don't want to screw around.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

That looks sorta like a GA16DE. If that's the case there are about 50 million of them spread all over every junkyard anywhere on the globe. or $30 via ebay.


Stop screwing around with fixing this via welding, instead use the time spent on that to find a good junkyard pull and just replace it.

 

[7window]

That looks sorta like a GA16DE. If that's the case there are about 50 million of them spread all over every junkyard anywhere on the globe. or $30 via ebay.


Stop screwing around with fixing this via welding, instead use the time spent on that to find a good junkyard pull and just replace it.

wow!!! You are good. Its close. Its a ka4de or s-13 stock which I get pulled over a lot by teenagers who wants to buy it from me. 🙂

I hate to waste a good manifold because of one bad pipe. i think its poorly designed.

 

[Bignate603]

You technically CAN weld steel alloys to aluminum with friction welding but there's no way that the OP could do that in this case. I agree that if replacements are available cheaply you should just grab one and be done with it.

 

[Squisher]

Maybe, my eyes are deceiving me, but it sure looks like there is small flange on that pipe that is bottomed against the manifold. My first try would be trying to get a sharp chisel or screw driver under that flange.

 

[exdeath]

I hate to waste a good manifold because of one bad pipe. i think its poorly designed.

It is. Yank it off, drop it off with a professional welder / machine shop and a Benjamin, tell them to remove that insert and tig an aluminum adapter in it's place, pick it up at lunch time, never worry about it ever ever again.

Dissimilar metals should never be used in cooling systems, esp when there is current flowing through it, everyone knows this.

You don't really have a choice if an iron block is used, but the rest of the piping should be the same, not some brass, some zinc plated, some copper, some aluminum, some steel, etc. If it can't be helped for whatever design reason (cost, strength, mass production, etc) then it should be serviceable. Doesn't take much to sand cast in the pipe nipple and then lathe it down when you do all the other post-cast machining on it.