• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

performance alignments

Status
Not open for further replies.

T2urtle

Diamond Member
I installed Tein lowering springs and new strut/shocks at 95k. This lowers the car a modest 1.3inches in the front and .7inches in the rear. I’m going to be trying some autocross and possibly some light novice road racing this upcoming season. So I want to get a performance oriented alignment.

I got SPC alignment kit installed a while back. This gives me more rear adjustments for camber and toe. I have nothing in the front as of yet, so only toe is adjustable. My car is a G35x AWD, this is a RWD bias AWD system. Seems most AWD are FWD bias. Should I start off what something different or stick to the standard alignment settings most RWD cars are using.

Seems in the -1.5~ 2.0 front/rear camber, 0 front toe and 1/16(assuming .0625 degrees) rear toe-in per side is what people recommend.

My car’s current alignment is.
FL
-1.8 camber
7.0 caster
0.04 Toe

FR
-2.1 camber
7.0 caster
.03 toe

RL
-2.2 camber
0.14 toe
RR

-1.9 camber
0.04 toe

I’m not exactly happy about the RL tire having 0.14 but it’s something I can live with.
 
Last edited:
That looks reasonable but I agree on the .14 rear toe. Should be able to get that dialed it closer to 0. It may be a bit nit picky but you're paying for it!
 
I’m not exactly happy about the RL tire having 0.14 but it’s something I can live with.

From doing plenty of alignments, you'll never notice the difference in that extra tenth. You won't have any tire wear and anything you'd feel driving would be like a placebo.

Your cross caster is zeroed out, very good considering you can't adjust it yet. The only thing I would want changed looking at those numbers is getting as close as possible to matching numbers for camber front and rear.
 
I can only match the rears, I haven't gotten the front arms to allow for front camber and I don't think I will either. Price isn't worth it now at this point ($600). Maybe if I need to replace them.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top