• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Parts for a Single Loop CPU Watercooling Setup?

Scionix

Senior member
Title pretty much says it all, I've been told to stay away from the "kits", so what would you guys recommend in the way of seperate parts? All I want is a single loop for my CPU (Q6600) only. If there is a way to make the coolant red, that would be awesome as well.

I'm putting the loop inside of a Coolermaster HAF
 
First of all, keep the materials all one type. DO NOT mix aluminum with copper. You can however use brass with copper.

I'd also suggest a few tools. 1" spade bit, Dremmel kit if you don't have one. My first 4-1/2" cut for my 120mm fans was done by a 4-1/2" hole saw. The spade bit worked wonders. Made a nice clean cut. You'll probably need some 1" rubber grommets.

Distilled water
Either a Swiftec 320 or 220 MCR QP rad
355 or for a more quieter pump 655 Swiftec - the 355 pairs nice with a XSPC res Top for Laing DDC
25' of 7/16 ID & 5/8 OD MasterKleer PVC tubing
EK Supreme
go with 1/2 Inner Diameter (ID) tubing
You'll also need a way to fill the loop. You can see through my thread my build progress... Here

Just ask if you need more help 🙂

Cheers and good luck.

I love my H20 setup - thanks Aigo, Wood Butch, daw, and all the others that have helped me 🙂

EDIT: ok, looks like my build links are broken, just ask and i'll re-align them.
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
First of all, keep the materials all one type. DO NOT mix aluminum with copper. You can however use brass with copper.

I'd also suggest a few tools. 1" spade bit, Dremmel kit if you don't have one. My first 4-1/2" cut for my 120mm fans was done by a 4-1/2" hole saw. The spade bit worked wonders. Made a nice clean cut. You'll probably need some 1" rubber grommets.

Distilled water
Either a Swiftec 320 or 220 MCR QP rad
355 or for a more quieter pump 655 Swiftec - the 355 pairs nice with a XSPC res Top for Laing DDC
25' of 7/16 ID & 5/8 OD MasterKleer PVC tubing
EK Supreme
go with 1/2 Inner Diameter (ID) tubing
You'll also need a way to fill the loop. You can see through my thread my build progress... Here

Just ask if you need more help 🙂

Cheers and good luck.

I love my H20 setup - thanks Aigo, Wood Butch, daw, and all the others that have helped me 🙂

EDIT: ok, looks like my build links are broken, just ask and i'll re-align them.


Awesome, thanks a lot!

I'll check those out.

*crosses fingers*
 
Um, I just recognized a mistake:

I said: "go with 1/2 Inner Diameter (ID) tubing" what i meant was 1/2 ID barbs: through the whole loop. The tubing diameters I wrote are correct though which gives it a tighter fit without the need for clamps or zip ties over your barbs: but if you feel better using them then by all means do so 🙂
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
Um, I just recognized a mistake:

I said: "go with 1/2 Inner Diameter (ID) tubing" what i meant was 1/2 ID barbs: through the whole loop. The tubing diameters I wrote are correct though which gives it a tighter fit without the need for clamps or zip ties over your barbs: but if you feel better using them then by all means do so 🙂

Good to know! Can I ask what you mean by "You'll need a way to fill the loop"?

Also, is there a way to dye the coolant (distilled water) red?

EDIT: Is this what you mean by barbs? http://www.jab-tech.com/EK-Hig...ng-1-2-OD-pr-3713.html

Also, how many will I need?
 
Well, it'll be way easier to use a fill port. I found a nice spot Fill port located on bottom of case. Ideally you want it on the top but I didn't think of it until after I drilled out 3 4-1/2 holes...

You want to bling your loop with a dye?
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
Well, it'll be way easier to use a fill port. I found a nice spot Fill port located on bottom of case. Ideally you want it on the top but I didn't think of it until after I drilled out 3 4-1/2 holes...

You want to bling your loop with a dye?

Yeah, The case I'm getting has red LED's, so...

Also, how many of those barbs will I need?

 
If you go with all of the same kind through-out the loop... ??? ... I'm guessing, well, lets say I used a total of 6 barbs (the Danger Den Fat Boys) But also in conjunction with som elbows (90*) a T fitting, and some 45* degree angles.

From what I've heard the dye fades. Clear does look really good and will help you notice algae build up, if any.
 
And I doubt you'll need 25'. I was able to build 2 and half systems with 25' of tubing.
 
Originally posted by: PCTC2
And I doubt you'll need 25'. I was able to build 2 and half systems with 25' of tubing.

M'kay, thanks.

This stuff really adds up! >.>

I thought I'd be able to do new PSU + Case + Cooling for under 500$, but it's not looking so good right now 🙁
 
I've spent a few thousand on cases and cooling in the past few years. If you play it right, it shouldn't be too bad, but one system has gotten out of had. One cost me around $300 for my watercooling loop while the other cost me $500 and the last one cost me $700 for the loop. Cases ranged from $100 to $200 each, as with power supplies as well. That ranges from $500 for PSU, Case, and Cooling to $1100 for PSU, Case, and Cooling.
 
You might want to check out jab-tech and sidewindercomputers.com. All those vendors your jumping around, the shipping will own you.

My recomendations:

For your rad assy:
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-R...-radiator-pr-4384.html
+
http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-L...igh-Speed-pr-3771.html x 3
+
http://www.jab-tech.com/Sunbea...Kit-BLACK-pr-2530.html

For your pump Assembly:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swifte...v-DC-Pump-pr-3510.html
+
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-A...Laing-DDC-pr-4123.html
This is a combo res pump top. It makes your pump into a res and its one heck of a performing top.

Cpu Block:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swifte...aterblock-pr-4246.html

its a very flexable block, meaning if you want to add something else to your loop, the block will allow that. Its not the best performing block, but its better then supreme your looking at.

Tubing:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Master...ID-5-8-OD-pr-3079.html x 15 feet. Assuming OOPS factor.

+
http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspo...P-SLWP-C01-pr-4397.htm x 6

I HIGHLY recomend you changing your barbs. Those are also silver plated barbs, so the silver will act as a anti microbe.

Coolant:
Do you really want color? If you dont need the color, plain old distilled. Goto the super market, get a bottle of distilled, NOT drinking, but Distilled, and use that.

Your die wont last very long, and it will only speed up clouding on your tubing. How about colored tubing instead?
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-7...ve-Orange-pr-4236.html

Use Zipties as clamps.
 
Originally posted by: aigomorla
You might want to check out jab-tech and sidewindercomputers.com. All those vendors your jumping around, the shipping will own you.

My recomendations:

For your rad assy:
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-R...-radiator-pr-4384.html
+
http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-L...igh-Speed-pr-3771.html x 3
+
http://www.jab-tech.com/Sunbea...Kit-BLACK-pr-2530.html

For your pump Assembly:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swifte...v-DC-Pump-pr-3510.html
+
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-A...Laing-DDC-pr-4123.html
This is a combo res pump top. It makes your pump into a res and its one heck of a performing top.

Cpu Block:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swifte...aterblock-pr-4246.html

its a very flexable block, meaning if you want to add something else to your loop, the block will allow that. Its not the best performing block, but its better then supreme your looking at.

Tubing:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Master...ID-5-8-OD-pr-3079.html x 15 feet. Assuming OOPS factor.

+
http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspo...P-SLWP-C01-pr-4397.htm x 6

I HIGHLY recomend you changing your barbs. Those are also silver plated barbs, so the silver will act as a anti microbe.

Coolant:
Do you really want color? If you dont need the color, plain old distilled. Goto the super market, get a bottle of distilled, NOT drinking, but Distilled, and use that.

Your die wont last very long, and it will only speed up clouding on your tubing. How about colored tubing instead?
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-7...ve-Orange-pr-4236.html

Use Zipties as clamps.

Thank you so much!

Never even heard of colored tubing, that's awesome stuff.

Think I'll be using that as my list, here's to hoping I install it right! 😀

EDIT: Your barb link is borked >.>

 
Originally posted by: Scionix
Awesome, the pump doesn't work with that tubing, time to order more. Whee! 🙁

what pump doesnt work with what tubing?
 
Originally posted by: aigomorla
Originally posted by: Scionix
Awesome, the pump doesn't work with that tubing, time to order more. Whee! 🙁

what pump doesnt work with what tubing?

I'm guessing the OP has not realised that the XSPC top or XSPC top & res replaces the standard plastic top (with 3/8" OD barbs) on the MCP355 pump.

Either that or he has bought the wrong sized barbs (should be 1/2" OD with G1/4 thread) or tubing (should be 7/16" or 1/2" ID) and none of the tubing will fit properly on the barbs. You can reduce the ID of the tubing down to 3/8" ID, but it then becomes very difficult to fit over 1/2" OD barbs (ask Woodbutcher).

OP, if you are using 7/16" ID or 1/2" ID tubing you must replace the standard top on the MCP355 since it uses 3/8" OD barbs. It is very easy to do (from memory); just un-screw the four bolts from the bottom of the pump, take the pump top off and replace it with the XSPC top or XSPC top & res. Remember to fit the O-ring between the pump housing and pump top or res when you bolt it back together again. You then screw a 1/2" OD G1/4 barbs into the outlet on the pump and inlet of either the pump or res, depending on whether you are using the XSPC top or XSPC top & res.

btw, OD = Outside Diameter and ID = Internal Diameter. It will clearly state the ID or OD on a shop's website, depending on whether it is a barb where OD is important or tubing where ID is important.

If you are using compression fittings then it becomes a bit more complicated since you need to know the ID and OD of the tubing and fitting to make sure that they fit correctly. This is because the tubing slides into the compression fitting as opposed to over a barb (where the OD of the tubing doesn't mattter).

OP, I'm sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, but I don't know how knowledgeable you are about liquid cooling and fittings.
 
he bought what i pieced.

LOL.. theres no way nothing can be not compatable.
 
Originally posted by: Scionix
Awesome, the pump doesn't work with that tubing, time to order more. Whee! 🙁

OP, that is the tubing i am using over my 1/2 ID barbs. I too broke blisters trying to put the tubing over the barbs without heating up the ends in boiling distilled water first. That is the best way but not the only way. *** Why do we recommend those parts and not include instructions on how to put it on guys!?!?!? Cmon now! *** You can also use a hair dryer if your tubing cools off before you put it on. What I had to do is boil some distilled water and then bring the actual sauce pan over to the computer and then dip/dunk the tubing into the water until it softened up and then put it on. Some situations I could just bring the tubing down to the stove and do the process there but this will help you put your H20 setup together. On a side note; I don't have any barb that I don't feel confident enough that I have to put zip or worm ties over to ensure things don't leak

Got my Silver coil in today 😀

Good Luck OP!
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
[ I too broke blisters trying to put the tubing over the barbs without heating up the ends in boiling distilled water first. That is the best way but not the only way. *** Why do
Good Luck OP!

LOL

Im sure i covered it in my guide linked below. :T

Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN

Got my Silver coil in today 😀

Good Luck OP!

Oh yay, down goes your loop again to be tweeked again. 😛

And no it doesnt stop, you'll find something new to add.
 
Originally posted by: aigomorla
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
[ I too broke blisters trying to put the tubing over the barbs without heating up the ends in boiling distilled water first. That is the best way but not the only way. *** Why do
Good Luck OP!

LOL

Im sure i covered it in my guide linked below. :T

Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN

Got my Silver coil in today 😀

Good Luck OP!

Oh yay, down goes your loop again to be tweeked again. 😛

And no it doesnt stop, you'll find something new to add.

Touche my good friend!!! I may just drop it in the bottom drain/fill port and see if that works, lol 😀
 
Back
Top