Painting Cases??

[krazykilroy]

What is the best way to paint a case? I have a plain off-white full tower, that I would like to change the color on.

Any tips or Ideas??

Thx..........

 

[RagManX]

http://www.pc-workshop.net/articles/paint101/paint101-1.shtml

Read it and all will be revealed. I've used that as my guide for painting my case. Looks great (check the pics at my case mods site listed in .sig below).

RagManX

 

[adamfelker]

If you're not too confident in your painting skills, you may want to try "Hammered Paint" If has a nice texture that really covers any screw-ups you may make during the painting process.

 

[krazykilroy]

thx guys

 

[nnnyyy]

If you are painting your drives, try to use a vinyl paint. Looks better than normal paint IMO.

 

[tallest1]

Nooo! I needed this a week ago. I got primer on my case and I've already messed up!!!! *sob*!

 

[Jeff7]

I'll be painting my case once it gets a bit warmer outside. It's been 70 degrees one day, and then it snows the next, so it might be awhile yet.
What I have in mind to do:
Sand the original beige stuff smooth. Then use primer. Sand that smooth. Paint it. Sand smooth. Paint it again. Polish that smooth. Clear coat. Polish it smooth.
Simplified, yes. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[RagManX]

<< Nooo! I needed this a week ago. I got primer on my case and I've already messed up!!!! *sob*! >>


Just sand it down and start over. I had to do that twice to the left panel on my current mod project. Not a big deal. Just use 320 or 220 grit sandpaper to cut through it quickly, then 400 to smooth it out again. You can start over once you do that.

And Jeff7, that's exactly what's needed. I just recommend that when you sand, you sand horizontally, vertically, and along both diagonals. That really helps keep things as smooth as can be.

RagManX

 

[tallest1]

I didn't do the panel smoothening step prior to laying the primer.... should I strip the primer all the way down and THEN smooth the metal or just smooth out the 2 layers of primer I already have on it?

Edit: btw, I had brushed my primer instead of spraypainting it

 

[dew042]

<< I didn't do the panel smoothening step prior to laying the primer.... should I strip the primer all the way down and THEN smooth the metal or just smooth out the 2 layers of primer I already have on it?

Edit: btw, I had brushed my primer instead of spraypainting it >>



you brushed it on? ouch. sand it down til its flat again, you'll probably have some brush ripples.

slow and steady is the name of the game. i would suggest dupli-color auto paints. regular rustoleum and krylon tend to dry really slow when you put on heavy layers, dupli-color does not. the solution to mess ups is paint some more ..... until it gets unmanagable. then strip it. don't worry about messing up, its a learning process. (btw: you can't use chemical strippers for anything with plastic, but pinesol works as a stripper on plastics with most paints, just leave in the a water pinesol solution overnight or more....)

slow and steady. results are never instantanious.

dew.

 

[tallest1]

I used a foam brush so it isn't too too bad. So you say flatten the primer, right?

And after that, I guess I'll return my can of Rustoleum Glossy Enamel get the recommended Auto Paints

 

[tallest1]

bump

 

[HouRman]

Yeah I recommend using a quality 400 or 600 grit sand paper to wet sand the primer down (not to the metal) with a sanding block

After it's nice and smooth apply a coat of automotive laquer paint. (I use plasti-kote laquer paints at pep boys or Dupli color at kraagen)

If you don't sand the primer down smooth, then the imperfections will remain even after you apply paint coats and sand them down. The trick to a smooth finish is the flat primer coat. If you use spray paints, just watch out for overspray and it sometimes helps to paint in a cross-hatch pattern to avoid streaks with metallic paints.

After the paint coats are done, apply like 2 or 3 clear coats (wet sanding with like 2000 between). Then I'd wait around 2 months before polishing and waxing.

 

[Howard]

No, the metal is not etched so that paint can stick. The metal is powdercoated, IIRC. So you can sand all the way to bare metal, as long as you're sanding flat. The primer will make sure the paint will stick (make sure the primer can stick to steel or aluminum, for whatever the material is).

 

[Howard]

*** READ THROUGH THE ENTIRE DOCUMENT BEFORE DOING ANY WORK ***
*** DO ALL WORK IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA ***
*** WEAR THE PROPER SAFETY EQUIPMENT ***

*Step 1: Dismantle the case

Remove all the side panels, the front bevel, all the wiring, buttons, drive cages, fan housings, power supply, hard drives, floppy drives, CD-ROMs/RWs, everything. A completely bare case is a must. Then, separate the parts that are to be painted into metal and plastic piles.

If you can take apart the front bezel, do so. The buttons can get stuck when you paint.

*Step 2: Acquiring materials

List of supplies

Wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper, grits 200/220, 320/360, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000
Sanding block
PPG/DuPont epoxy primer (whatever is compatible)
PPG/DuPont acrylic urethane base/clear coat ? enough for 3 coats of everything with each type
Flex additive ? allows primer/paint to bend with plastic, so it doesn?t chip off
Stirring sticks, strainers, extra cans, tack cloths, white rags, plastic buckets
Lacquer thinner and aluminum trays for cleanup
Dawn liquid detergent
Zaino Bros? Z-7 Show Car Wash
Zaino Bros? Z-18 ClayBar
Fine rubbing compound
Fine polishing compound
Zaino Bros? ZFX Flash Cure Accelerator Additive
Zaino Bros? Z-2 Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Finishes
Zaino Bros? Z-5 Polish for Swirl Marks & Fine Scratches
Zaino Bros? Z-6 Ultra Clean ?Gloss Enhancer? Spray

List of equipment

Air compressor (a 5HP Sears does the job quite well)
HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) paint guns /w strainers ? primer uses separate gun
Oil and water extractor (place at least 25? from compressor) ? keeps the air clean
Air hose
OSHA-approved air mask

*Step 3: Sanding the case down

All the pieces should be separated. Fill a small-to-medium bucket with water and some Dawn detergent. Wash all parts and wipe dry with clean towels. Wrap 200/220 grit wet/dry around the sanding block. If your case has a nice finish, use 320/360 grit. Wet all parts and lightly sand all the metal panels and the front bezel. If the buttons are to be sanded, sand those as well.

Wash all the parts again with the soap. Rinse thoroughly and wipe dry with tack cloths. Air dry for assurance. Dump the bucket of its contents, rinse the inside, dump, fill with new soap solution.

*Step 4: Applying the primer

Wear mask. Mix up the primer according to the manufacturer and pour it into the spray gun. Make sure a paint strainer is used! Adjust the pressure on the gun according to the directions on the can. Practice spraying on a piece of cardboard, using a 12? spray pattern and 1/2 overlap (overlapping each pass by 1/2). Do not start the run on the object being painted (start from the side) and spray parallel to the surface.

Wipe surfaces with tack cloth before spraying. Spray on the METAL parts ONLY. 2-3 full wet coats will be enough.

Add the flex additive to the paint, according to the directions. This allows the paint to flex with the plastic without cracking/chipping.

Practice doing it on cardboard again. Spray with previous technique.

*Step 5: Sanding the primer

Wrap 400/600 grit wet/dry around the sanding block. Read the directions on the primer. Use whatever grit it specifies. Rinse the primed parts and sand until the surfaces are perfectly flat (except for pieces that aren?t supposed to be). If you want to sand it perfectly, sand horizontally, vertically and diagonally. If not, just sand in a single direction. Don?t use the block for non-flat parts. Wash the sanded parts with the soap. Rinse with clean water and use the Z-18 ClayBar according to directions ? make sure the surface is always lubricated with water when wiping with ClayBar. Dump the bucket of soap and do the same as before.

Wipe dry with clean towels.

*Step 6: Applying the base coat

If at any time you don?t like the look of the primer, re-sand with the directions above. Paint magnifies mistakes, not hides them. Mix the paint according to the manufacturer?s directions, pour it into the spray gun using the strainer and set the pressure. Practice on the cardboard again, using the same technique as with the primer.

Wipe down the parts with tack cloths, each as you spray them. Spray the larger METAL pieces first, and with the smaller pieces use an 8-10? spray pattern. Apply 3 full coats of color. For the plastic, do the same as with the primer and use flex additive. 3 coats, again.

Dry according to the directions, then sand with the previous methods, this time with 600 grit. Wash and rinse, dump the bucket as usual. Use the ClayBar on the surfaces, again making sure that the surfaces are completely wet. Wipe dry.

*Step 7: Applying the clear coat

Use the same technique as the base coat. Apply 3 full coats, and let this dry for 48 hours, but no longer.

*Step 8: Sanding the clear coat

Wrap a piece of 1000 or 1200 grit wet/dry around the block. Lightly sand the flat metal parts in one direction, making sure you don?t sand through to the color. The paint must look perfectly applied. Sand all the pieces, but don?t use the sanding block for the non-flat surfaces. Repeat the process with 1500 grit, and then 2000 grit. After you switch grits, wash and dry, dump bucket. Trust me, you want totally clean water. Check the paint for orange peel, runs, unflatness, roughness, etc. If there?s anything unsatisfactory, sand with 2000 grit. Wash, rinse, ClayBar, dump. Wipe dry completely.

*Step 9: Rubbing in the shine

Get the rubbing compound and lots of WHITE Turkish towels with no fancy designs. Cut the towels into the pieces small enough to manage, and cut out all the seams/designs/extra crap. Apply the compound according to manufacturer?s directions (usually with a circular motion), until the surfaces look like mirrors. Now do the same with the polishing compound. If at any time there are swirl marks, use Z-5 swirl remover as per directions.

*Step 10: Detailing the parts

Wash, rinse, ClayBar. Wipe with tack cloths. Use the ZFX accelerator as per directions on all parts. Apply the Z-2 as per directions on all parts. Let the Z-2 dry for at least an hour, longer if temperature is below room temp. If humidity is high, drying time will lengthen dramatically. To check if the polish is ready, wipe your (clean!) finger across a hazed section. If it smears, it?s still wet. If it leaves a crystal clear finish, it?s done. Use large WHITE cotton bath towels to remove the polish, turning frequently. If there are any swirl marks, use Z-5 as per directions.

If you want an even better finish, use the Z-6 as per directions. Follow up with a coat of Z-2, with above technique. Keep doing this until you?re satisfied. Assemble all parts and enjoy.

 

[Howard]