PAGING ALL MECHANICS!!!!

Goosemaster

Lifer
Apr 10, 2001
48,775
3
81
I thought it would be fixed when I went in for a brake job today:(

Basically, when I turn on my A/C the car does its normal grumbling (it's a puny 4cyl:p)

That said, strangely, every few minutes the brakes give out and the pedal goes almsot all the way in :confused: Even then if I push it all in I get no pressure until it almsot hits the surface behind the pedals:Q Once I get that far, the car brakes again, but VERY weakly and it feels strange, especially when coming to a full stop. The car teeters from front right to rear left :confused:, sort of rocking diagonally when I come to a stop. This doesn't happen ALL the time, but every few minutes or so. Keep in mind that my handbrake ALWAYS works, and I have to resort to using it quite frequently:eek:

Today I went in for an oil change but realized that it was bad so I had the good ole' boys at Midas (*slaps himself*) look at it. They were going to charge me a lot less than 'my' mechainic so I said why not. They told me they looked at the master cylinder and that it looekd fine so they simply flushed the lines and replaced the front pads.

About half a block away, having turned the A/C on again, it did the same thing:|

They said they'd have a ride-along with me tomorow but the problem is that I am out of money and can't spend anymore for about a week:(


A friend of mine told me that about the only thing in relation to the brake system that would be affected, by the alternator or current in general, would be the brake booster.

Basically, does that seem like the appropriate diagnosis to you guys? If so, on average, how much should parts+ labor run me?

Thanks


Cliffs: ^:|^I got your cliffs right here you lazy bastards..^:|^



 

TraumaRN

Diamond Member
Jun 5, 2005
6,893
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An electrical problem seems to be logical and thats what I was thinking, however someone with more experience would know..
 

Goosemaster

Lifer
Apr 10, 2001
48,775
3
81
Originally posted by: DeathBUA
An electrical problem seems to be logical and thats what I was thinking, however someone with more experience would know..

Aye. It's fvkign dangerous and I need to know EXACTLy what it is so I don't waste what little I'll have next week:(


The first time this happened was on 495 I think. Ther was an accident or soemthign ahead..traffic went from like 70-85 down to 30mph...no biggie, except when I went for the pedal and got nothing:Q

I nearly sh!t my pants until I yanked on the E brake...probably saved my life..if not someone elses:confused:
 

Heisenberg

Lifer
Dec 21, 2001
10,621
1
0
The brake booster operates off engine vacuum and so wouldn't be affected by an electrical problem. Check for a leaking vacuum line to the booster, or it may need to be replaced.
 

Goosemaster

Lifer
Apr 10, 2001
48,775
3
81
Originally posted by: Heisenberg
The brake booster operates off engine vacuum and so wouldn't be affected by an electrical problem. Check for a leaking vacuum line to the booster, or it may need to be replaced.

Would engine vacum be affected by a bent piston ring that lets oil (an pressure basically, no?) into the combusiton chamber?
 

desertdweller

Senior member
Jan 6, 2001
588
0
0
If the brake booster goes south, the pedal becomes very difficult to push in. The booster is what helps you apply the breaks.

Your hand break doesn't work with the hydrolics, it uses a seperate cable.

The problem most likely is a bad Master cylinder, though there is a remote chance that it is the proportioning valve. I've seen those go bad on rare occassion.

DD

 

Heisenberg

Lifer
Dec 21, 2001
10,621
1
0
Originally posted by: Goosemaster
Originally posted by: Heisenberg
The brake booster operates off engine vacuum and so wouldn't be affected by an electrical problem. Check for a leaking vacuum line to the booster, or it may need to be replaced.

Would engine vacum be affected by a bent piston ring that lets oil (an pressure basically, no?) into the combusiton chamber?
Not to the degree that it would make the booster stop working entirely I don't think. If the engine is pulling that little vacuum I doubt it would be running at all, but IANAMechanic.
 

GuitarDaddy

Lifer
Nov 9, 2004
11,465
1
0
Sounds like the seal on the wheel cylinder on your right front, needs replacing, probably leaking. Crawl up under the right front and look for signs of brake fluid leakage, and check your brake fluid level.

If not, then its probably the Master Cylinder
 

silverpig

Lifer
Jul 29, 2001
27,703
12
81
I had the exact same problem with my '91 Tempo. It happened twice a month or two ago. The second time was weird cause the brakes actually got stuck on after I played with them a bit on a side street. I then drove a block with the brakes on, kicked them a few times, whatever was stuck released and they've been fine ever since.

*shrug*
 

m2kewl

Diamond Member
Oct 7, 2001
8,263
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0
try this - turn off the car, wait a few minutes, then pump the brakes repeatedly. the first couple of times your pedal should be way down, then gradually raise. if not, then the booster is bad.

check your lines for leaks, also check if there's a bulge on the master cyl cap. what kinda car?
 

KokomoGSTmp

Senior member
Aug 29, 2004
412
0
0
It can be something to do with the ABS hydraulic unit if you had one. My beater Neon had damaged splines on the axle where the wheel speed sensor for the ABS reads. So before the computer errors out back into normal braking... you step on the brake pedal and it feels like you're getting no feedback and no brakes.

Having a bad seal in the master cylinder can cause a similar sensation too (as mentioned before) but I don't think a late 80s Accord has to deal with ABS.
 

Goosemaster

Lifer
Apr 10, 2001
48,775
3
81
Originally posted by: deejayshakur
don't you drive a late 80s accord? get the CL already! (or was it the TL).

1990:(


I am seriosuly thinking about getting a late model 90s bimmer 3 series...
 

cressida

Platinum Member
Sep 10, 2000
2,840
5
81
Originally posted by: Goosemaster
Originally posted by: deejayshakur
don't you drive a late 80s accord? get the CL already! (or was it the TL).

1990:(


I am seriosuly thinking about getting a late model 90s bimmer 3 series...

uh don't .. My friend got a used BMW and he had problems with it and it costed too much for him to maintain so he got rid of it.
 

Goosemaster

Lifer
Apr 10, 2001
48,775
3
81
Originally posted by: cressida
Originally posted by: Goosemaster
Originally posted by: deejayshakur
don't you drive a late 80s accord? get the CL already! (or was it the TL).

1990:(


I am seriosuly thinking about getting a late model 90s bimmer 3 series...

uh don't .. My friend got a used BMW and he had problems with it and it costed too much for him to maintain so he got rid of it.

:(

The 3.2tl I was looking at costs too much ( and is atuo) ....


...the manual CL's are too much as well:(
 

jtvang125

Diamond Member
Nov 10, 2004
5,399
51
91
If you're losing brake pressure, most likely it's not the brake booster. A bad brake booster will cause the pedal to get extremely hard and you would have to practically stand on the pedal just to make the car stop. A spongy pedal feel and loss of brake pressure is usually a bad master cylinder or ABS unit like someone mentioned.
 

zerocool84

Lifer
Nov 11, 2004
36,041
472
126
i'd say bad master cylinder or check your wheels to see if you can see some liquid after you pump the brakes a couple of times, maybe some bad wheel cylinders
 

deejayshakur

Platinum Member
Aug 7, 2000
2,584
0
0
Originally posted by: Goosemaster
Originally posted by: cressida
Originally posted by: Goosemaster
Originally posted by: deejayshakur
don't you drive a late 80s accord? get the CL already! (or was it the TL).

1990:(


I am seriosuly thinking about getting a late model 90s bimmer 3 series...

uh don't .. My friend got a used BMW and he had problems with it and it costed too much for him to maintain so he got rid of it.

:(

The 3.2tl I was looking at costs too much ( and is atuo) ....


...the manual CL's are too much as well:(

what's your budget again? i found a 97 2.2CL MT with 50k miles for around...6-7k i think. that's in CA tho.

ended up getting a 98 gs-r sedan for $7100. stick with honda man, you won't regret it ;) just invest in a good alarm and garage it if possible.
 

Goosemaster

Lifer
Apr 10, 2001
48,775
3
81
Originally posted by: deejayshakur
Originally posted by: Goosemaster
Originally posted by: cressida
Originally posted by: Goosemaster
Originally posted by: deejayshakur
don't you drive a late 80s accord? get the CL already! (or was it the TL).

1990:(


I am seriosuly thinking about getting a late model 90s bimmer 3 series...

uh don't .. My friend got a used BMW and he had problems with it and it costed too much for him to maintain so he got rid of it.

:(

The 3.2tl I was looking at costs too much ( and is atuo) ....


...the manual CL's are too much as well:(

what's your budget again? i found a 97 2.2CL MT with 50k miles for around...6-7k i think. that's in CA tho.

ended up getting a 98 gs-r sedan for $7100. stick with honda man, you won't regret it ;) just invest in a good alarm and garage it if possible.

pretty much what I found. I f I was goign with a TL or a CL it would pretty much be a 2002+

German cars would be my only option for older stuff such as bimmers