P8Z68-V PRO no signal to monitor and red memory light

[iamloco724]

this is my first build it took me all day to do with my father since we took our time and of course instructions they give arent ment for first time builders so had to watch some youtube vids along the way

everything seemed to be going fine then i was going for my first boot im going to be using the on board graphics so i just plugged my monitor into the vga output on the motherboard when i boot it stars no display then reboots (the reboots i heard about happening with this board so not concerned) then it boots back up and stays up but no display

the red led by the memory is on a constantly

i tried each stick of ram individually and i also tried all the slots still the same tried mem ok

i cleared the cmos still the same

this is the ram i chose F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM ..im not sure its on the list but i know for a fact its worked with my motherboard for many other users

power seems fine from what i can tell

heres to posts i found that are similar to my problem but neither solution helped

http://www.overclock.net/t/1139736/solved-asus-p8z68-v-pro-no-display-via-on-board-graphics

http://www.thinkdigit.com/forum/cpu-motherboards/143884-no-display-asus-p8z68-v-pro.html

the first post seems to be related to ram.....

the 2nd post he forgot to plug in the EATX 12V power i believe i have everything set right i took some pictures if you want more of a specific spot let me know at first we were confused with that cable we took the one that came with the power supply labeled cpu and pluged that into the power supply where it said cpu and on the board we plugged it into the eatx 12v the cable is pictured below and also showed plugged into where the 12volt is on the board once again lack of detailed instructions didnt help matters

as of now if i get no help here or if we determine its something dead im bringing it assembled to micro center for them to help me out i have no other option and the last thing i wanna do is take anything apart since i bought mostly everything from them anyway

btw defiantly isnt the monitor as its the same one i been using for years and the same one im on right now connected to a different pc..and unfortunately i cant try different ram in the new build cause all my computers are that old that nothing is compatible

here is my specs

ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Corsair Carbide Series 400R
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Evo
Intel Core i7-2600K
G.Skill F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM
Intel 510 Series
Seasonic X660

 

[bankster55]

yeah, its kinda confusing
there are 4 options in bios for initiate graphics adapter
iGPU (internal)
PCIe/PCI
PCI/PCIe
PCI/iGPU

It represents first and second choice at boot.
If first is missing - goes to second, just adds a bit to boot time for detection
For current vidcards you want PCIe/PCI
Most vidcards today are PCIe (express). PCI is old AGP, dont even know why they keep those choices. There is no iGPU/PCIe because you cant run that sequence - its either one or the other.

So running onboard vid iGPU selection, you have 3 ports - HDMI DSUB (blue 15 pin) and DVI.
Now we come to the chicken and the egg:
If you plug into DVI, you cant see to get into bios to CHANGE the default initiate selection to iGPU. However, the DSUB will work to give basic no driver video. Then comes the prob of some monitors not having 15 pin ports, only DVI, so you can use a DVI-VGA adapter (male to male) about $10. While i dont do it this way, I guess you can put your vidcard in PCIe slot and use it to boot to bios, change to iGPU and save and shutdown, and take out card, put DSUB connector to mobo, reboot to Win 7 DVD, install O/S and load INTEL graphics drivers (that create the iGPU control panel also). Then reboot and plug in to DVI if you wish.

You can run both types of video (iGPU PCIe) at once using the third party InVirtu software, but thats a whole nother story.

Fwiw setting iGPU ram to 512mb makes performance increase. (Latest bios only)

The red mem led may be an additional prob, or just the post sequence stopping there due to no vid. Your RAM is XMP, you must also set the mem to XMP profile in bios (AI Overclock Tuner) to get proper volt/timings, which I am guessing you didnt do, since you appear to be new at this.

Boy, did you pick the wrong time to jump in to building your own - lol

 

[iamloco724]

i really dont get what your saying when it comes to the monitor how can i change anything if nothing is displayed im trying to plug into vga and get nothing

 

[bankster55]

So, try a vidcard
If vidcard doesnt get you into bios, then you have a RAM prob

Have you tried pushing down the memOK button per instr in manual?

You'll have to get a cheapo non hi perf stick of RAM 1066 1.5V and stick it in slot A2 to try get rid of RAM red led
If it still doesnt boot, then you will also have to do a cmos clear
Not the button, but PSU off/unplugged, then depress case ON button for 10 sec untill all lights go off, then battery out - wait 30 min, then reverse.
If it still doesnt boot without red mem led, you may have bad mobo?

You MUST have 8 pin aux 12V inserted at port at top of mobo. Cant make out anything with those pics

Do not ever install/switch around RAM unless PSU off and unplugged - trickle voltage +5VSB

And VGA is a generic term (vid graphics array 640/480), usual slang means sep card.
You need to use onboard DSUB or DVI or HDMI to be clearly understood, at least for help.

 

[iamloco724]

Alright well i tried everything you have mentiond except for a seprate video card since i dont have one to try with..i bought a low profile 1066 stick of ram put it in a2 and same issues tried cmos

Im on the road to microcenter now dunno what else to do

 

[bankster55]

For someone new at this, one has to be careful not to have bent one of those tiny pins in the CPU socket when installing CPU. So I would check with manifying glass in good light after removing CPU again.

The 212+ nuts shouldnt be tightened too much, just barely snug is enough.

The CPU fan comes on immediately at higher speed? Any CPU fan prob will stop boot.

Ram slots are hella tight, esp with ripjaws on these boards. Pushing down super hard may bend board to point of cracking solder joints. Also these single lever slots, gotta make sure ram is all the way down till lever clicks.

Fwiw, I wouldnt set up a new Z68 with a SSD as only drive. Some have detection probs related to bios version, firmware vers, with these TYPE drives, by which port its plugged into, so I would use a conventional drive to get my board running, at least initially.

 

[iamloco724]

For someone new at this, one has to be careful not to have bent one of those tiny pins in the CPU socket when installing CPU. So I would check with manifying glass in good light after removing CPU again.

The 212+ nuts shouldnt be tightened too much, just barely snug is enough.

The CPU fan comes on immediately at higher speed? Any CPU fan prob will stop boot.

Ram slots are hella tight, esp with ripjaws on these boards. Pushing down super hard may bend board to point of cracking solder joints. Also these single lever slots, gotta make sure ram is all the way down till lever clicks.

Fwiw, I wouldnt set up a new Z68 with a SSD as only drive. Some have detection probs related to bios version, firmware vers, with these TYPE drives, by which port its plugged into, so I would use a conventional drive to get my board running, at least initially.

i got a replacement board and replacement power supply we will be taking it apart i will check the cpu to be safe and i beleive we were careful with that and everything else but i will be more so we will replace the board first if that doesnt work then we will swap the power

the cpu fan comes on right away

im going to be adding a hard drive to it but i read if you install a reg hard drive and an ssd then try to install windows 7 sometimes windows 7 will onyl see the hard drive and not the ssd so i was going to setup windows then add the hard drive

 

[bankster55]

Since you are coming from a way old system, make sure the 9 brass standoffs for the mobo are 5/16" long on the hex part, not 1/4". You def dont want the underside of these mobo to be 1/16" closer to the sheet metal, and 5/16" is correct for centering in I/O plate.

As far as not being able to see SSD in Win 7, thats the detection prob. I would say intel SSD are the best as far as issues but you must make sure you have the absolute latest firmware. The current controllers on the SSD are Sandforce 1200/1500 and now 2100/2200 which is loaded with probs. And what you do LATER is irrelevant. You gotta get the board going without any boobytraps. After that you can go crazy, I mean you can format the HDD afterwards, right?

So what did MC say?
Did you bring whole box over there or just mobo?
They tested it and?
Or they just took your word for it and gave you a new board.
Most MC will throw in some HW and test it right there.

 

[iamloco724]

Since you are coming from a way old system, make sure the 9 brass standoffs for the mobo are 5/16" long on the hex part, not 1/4". You def dont want the underside of these mobo to be 1/16" closer to the sheet metal, and 5/16" is correct for centering in I/O plate.

As far as not being able to see SSD in Win 7, thats the detection prob. I would say intel SSD are the best as far as issues but you must make sure you have the absolute latest firmware. The current controllers on the SSD are Sandforce 1200/1500 and now 2100/2200 which is loaded with probs. And what you do LATER is irrelevant. You gotta get the board going without any boobytraps. After that you can go crazy, I mean you can format the HDD afterwards, right?

So what did MC say?
Did you bring whole box over there or just mobo?
They tested it and?
Or they just took your word for it and gave you a new board.
Most MC will throw in some HW and test it right there.

very true about the hdd

well the corsair 400r seems to have stand offs already installed at first we didnt realize it but it does after a quick google search figured that out

well because we really didnt want to dissemble it we brought the whole thing there they said it would be 70 just to test it so we decided to not test it and just get replacement we didnt have the boxes with us for anything we didnt do the testing based of what we told them that i checked the ram with diff ram and other things and the symptoms they think its the board a small chance its the power supply

so they said what we could do is buy the board again and we bought the power supply also again just to be safe and when we hook the replacements up we will return the bad ones

 

[bankster55]

Naturally, your case has installed standoffs.
Wow, $70 to test a mobo and rig you bought right there
Never heard of that before
That is outrageous, I would call corp
You dont have to tell me, but curious which MC is it?

Edit: Just looked up the carbide case, in the pic those standoffs sure look short - did you measure them? This is extremely important. Also when you take the old mobo out check it where the lines of RAM slot soldered leads are, underside for burn marks, also on the case. Might give it the smell test too. Also look at the VRM's to left of CPU.
Some versions of my P67 Z68 mobo have a stickon neoprene insulator pad across the leads.

And like I said dont pinch the mobo by using a big ass Phillips on the 212+ nut socket

Edit: What number does the the Q-code readout stop at?

 

[iamloco724]

Naturally, your case has built in humps
Wow, $70 to test a mobo and rig you bought right there
Never heard of that before
That is outrageous, I would call corp
You dont have to tell me, but curious which MC is it?

Not sure what you mean by the humps but i have confirmed they are actual stand offs then we screwed the motherboard into that

When it comes to the charge im not sure how things are suppose to work at this store my first time dealing with them and i asusme cause they didnt buidl it thats why if they did im sure it would havw e been free

Westbury long island

Just tried swapping power supply same thing so next is to redo the motherboard dont know if we will be doing that tonight since we are wiped out doing this since 12pm yesterday

 

[bankster55]

Yeah, they dont have humps, have actual screwed in standoffs - I was editing my post while you were posting.
Please reread, added other thingy.

And that they didnt build it has nothing to do with it. Most MC work real close with their customers.

 

[iamloco724]

Yeah, they dont have humps, have actual screwed in standoffs - I was editing my post while you were posting.
Please reread, added other thingy.

And that they didnt build it has nothing to do with it. Most MC work real close with their customers.

yea it was my first experience with them so not sure what the norm is

thanks for all the advice i will def be even more careful when we change it

this question i dont understand "What number does the the Q-code readout stop at?"

 

[bankster55]

two letter code on mobo readout when booting, ea step in boot process has a code
"AA" when ready to fly
Theres a list of them in the manual
2B-2F mem initialization

 

[iamloco724]

two letter code on mobo readout when booting, ea step in boot process has a code
"AA" when ready to fly
Theres a list of them in the manual
2B-2F mem initialization

i didnt notice this anywhere on the motherboard any idea what its near? and ill look for it later or tomorrow and post back

 

[bankster55]

ahhh, v-pro is basic board, have to go to deluxe and up to have the q-coder. I have 5 SB systems, hard to keep track.

$30 avail for tues del - no tax free ship for 3-7 day
http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-Hyper...2451624&sr=8-7

Make sure EPU and TPU switches on mobo off (no led on)

 

[iamloco724]

ahhh, v-pro is basic board, have to go to deluxe and up to have the q-coder. I have 5 SB systems, hard to keep track.

$30 avail for tues del - no tax free ship for 3-7 day
http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-Hyper...2451624&sr=8-7

Make sure EPU and TPU switches on mobo off (no led on)

oh ok thats what i thought..yea i made sure of that right away

when it comes to that link your suggesting that just to see if it will boot with that vs on board?

 

[bankster55]

hey, yu are a system builder now, you gotta have a bunch of crap laying around for testing and backup.
But if the new mobo also gets the red mem led, I would buy it for sure

 

[iamloco724]

hey, yu are a system builder now, you gotta have a bunch of crap laying around for testing and backup.
But if the new mobo also gets the red mem led, I would buy it for sure

no doubt about it i said that to my friend earlier i said i need to stock up on stuff so i have stuff to fall back on and test with

ill post back if i have any other questions leading up to tuesday night and ill let you know what happens after we do the new board that night

again thanks for your tips and help

 

[iamloco724]

ordered that video card and some extra ram for just in case purposes

 

[Mem]

When I built my Asus P8Z68 V/GEN3 board month ago I used the two blue motherboard slots for ram(was using Two 4GB Corsair LP Vengence 1600).

Double check TPU and EPU switch are not stuck half way,should be off(disabled) by default.

When installing CPU I found mine locked into place with minimal force.

I find installing the ram with a finger on the ends of each stick (near the ram tabs)easier then trying to push down from centre of the ram stick,should hear I nice click when it installs into place.

 

[iamloco724]

heyyy i fixed it i got it booted...i pulled the battery again for 15 min and also booted with only one stick of ram in the last slot both things ive done before and now its working flawlessly and i shutdown put the other stick of ram in and its seeing that to

now i have a few questions about the bios

firstly should i only update if i run into problems?

what should my cpu temps be at stock speeds?

is there anything in the bios settings i have to set to make sure it wont overclock automatically or anything like that

i already set the ram to xmp profile

any other settings in bios i should change to have it set for the most basic settings and no extra thrills right now?

 

[bankster55]

You know, its funny bout that bios reset. Normally I tell peeps 30 minute minimum (which you say you only made 15, but twice), but its actually 24 hrs. to be sure, but no one will do it - all computer nerds are always in a big hurry. I once had a no boot prob a long time ago, and a guy on a forum told me to try 24 hour bat out PSU unplugged and I thought he was crazy and told him so. But I was desperate, so I just did it hoping to tell him "I told you so". But it worked to my utter astonishment. And I just saw about 3 weeks ago a similar posting with a SB mobo.

You never change a working bios - only to fix a specific prob.

Temps with the SB in speedstep mode are usually very low at idle, you should be ~27-32 with Hyper 212+
And at a very conservative 4.4 O/C at load should be 58-62, but they have a new 212+ - the EVO which should get you down about 5 degrees, but $10 more.

You need CPUID 1.58 to see whats going on in your sys
You need realtemp software to see realtemps
And you need super pi and CPUID on at the same time in windows with say a 32MB run to see how things heat up with load and if your CPU speeds step up or if full speed on full time.

Since you are new at this I am a GREAT fan of the TPU switch on mobo to config bios which will give you a 4300 or 4400 CPU speed using artificial intelligence. Just shut down, flip up switch to on (led showing), and reboot a coupla times into windows. The mem light might flicker as it tests various things, its trying to give you a workable O/C - let it do its thing.

Of course I cant give you a full explanation of everything SB, so this other forum will tell you everything you could ever want to know (sooner or later), and has good overclocking templates. I am PMing you the link since its bad proceedure to pimp another site from this site.

Are you using iGPU? DVI DSUB? Loaded Win 7? Getting the double post at boot?

 

[iamloco724]

You know, its funny bout that bios reset. Normally I tell peeps 30 minute minimum (which you say you only made 15, but twice), but its actually 24 hrs. to be sure, but no one will do it - all computer nerds are always in a big hurry. I once had a no boot prob a long time ago, and a guy on a forum told me to try 24 hour bat out PSU unplugged and I thought he was crazy and told him so. But I was desperate, so I just did it hoping to tell him "I told you so". But it worked to my utter astonishment. And I just saw about 3 weeks ago a similar posting with a SB mobo.

You never change a working bios - only to fix a specific prob.

Temps with the SB in speedstep mode are usually very low at idle, you should be ~27-32 with Hyper 212+
And at a very conservative 4.4 O/C at load should be 58-62, but they have a new 212+ - the EVO which should get you down about 5 degrees, but $10 more.

You need CPUID 1.58 to see whats going on in your sys
You need realtemp software to see realtemps
And you need super pi and CPUID on at the same time in windows with say a 32MB run to see how things heat up with load and if your CPU speeds step up or if full speed on full time.

Since you are new at this I am a GREAT fan of the TPU switch on mobo to config bios which will give you a 4300 or 4400 CPU speed using artificial intelligence. Just shut down, flip up switch to on (led showing), and reboot a coupla times into windows. The mem light might flicker as it tests various things, its trying to give you a workable O/C - let it do its thing.

Of course I cant give you a full explanation of everything SB, so this other forum will tell you everything you could ever want to know (sooner or later), and has good overclocking templates. I am PMing you the link since its bad proceedure to pimp another site from this site.

Are you using iGPU? DVI DSUB? Loaded Win 7? Getting the double post at boot?

im using igpu dsub loaded win 7 with only ssd in the system no double post at boot

what i was saying is i dont plan to over clock this thing right away so am i good leaving everything at defaults? i want it to run awhile on stock see how things go

what about the turbo setting for the cpu is that considering overclocking it?

and the cooler i have is not the plus it is the evo

 

[iamloco724]

also besides the basic card you mentiond would you like to reccomend a video card thats not crazy expensive but would be better then the hd300 alone incase i want to upgrade i say no more then 130 dollars i think is good if cheaper then even better