Ok, anyone interested in discussing solutions for restoring / repairing silver or any color/chrome painted mags, and repairs and indefinite protect of hard chrome wheels, ?
oxidizing and peeling clear coat on painted and chrome mag wheels
- Thread starter ino uno soweno
- Start date
JulesMaximus
No Lifer
- Jul 3, 2003
- 74,544
- 924
- 126
Are these alloy wheels or steel? It would probably be cheaper to replace the wheels rather than refinish them. Chrome plated alloys are a nightmare to re-chrome them and I've found many wheel refinishing places won't do it.
https://www.rimrepaircenter.com/resources/wheel-articles/chrome-rims-article/
My wife bent two wheels on her old Lexus (she had chrome OEM wheels) and I couldn't get them fixed anywhere. Lexus wanted $1500 for a pair of OEM wheels with the same chrome finish. I ended up buying a complete set of 4 wheels off a newer model a guy was selling because he had some curb rash on them (and two were bent-but they weren't chrome). I picked up his wheels for $400 for the set and had the two damaged wheels refinished for $130/ea and they were good as new. I thought the car looked better with the alloys than the chrome plated wheels her car had originally.
https://www.rimrepaircenter.com/resources/wheel-articles/chrome-rims-article/
My wife bent two wheels on her old Lexus (she had chrome OEM wheels) and I couldn't get them fixed anywhere. Lexus wanted $1500 for a pair of OEM wheels with the same chrome finish. I ended up buying a complete set of 4 wheels off a newer model a guy was selling because he had some curb rash on them (and two were bent-but they weren't chrome). I picked up his wheels for $400 for the set and had the two damaged wheels refinished for $130/ea and they were good as new. I thought the car looked better with the alloys than the chrome plated wheels her car had originally.
herm0016
Diamond Member
- Feb 26, 2005
- 8,498
- 1,115
- 126
you can find a good, local powdercoating shop to refinish them in just about any color you want for 50-100 each.
if you are really cheap, use plastidip. we did the silver grill inserts on our volt and it has held up very well over the last 40k miles. I may redo it before winter and it only costs about 10 bucks.
if you are really cheap, use plastidip. we did the silver grill inserts on our volt and it has held up very well over the last 40k miles. I may redo it before winter and it only costs about 10 bucks.
Gentlemen, you both have hit the nail exactly on the head, exactly, ( I love this forum,) in answer to the first question, I will re-adjust my presentation to begin with 2 sets of OLD hard chrome alloy mags, next, painted silver or black ect alloy, than painted chrome with a color, than painted steel, (chrome that is painted on with a spray gun,) and than finish with Max and my favorite passion, "wheels on bikes", (smiley face), back asap,
I was going to post and decided to re-read all of the last two post again, new guys please note they are very good info, and attach, thanks
So let’s start with a few pretty pics, and please remember I am not trying or showing how to “repair or replace hard chrome faults, because I can’t, that is big dollar stuff, my methods are motivated around 1, the first visual “perception” of what people and I see first, example is driving in and out of a petrol station, I can see most people are attracted and looking at the wheels, thinking “nice new shinny chrome light show,” and comments like “oh nice new chrome mags ? ”, 2, the fact that I have not cleaned them for 3 months, indicating to me they either they visually stay cleaner longer, ???, or they always look cleaner than they actually are !. 3, motivation is to keep it super cheap $, DIY and put in the hours myself, and have a few sets of different wheels to change around as and when I feel like, spares. , and know with minimum effort maintaince, they will only look better with more shine as long as they do not get smashed beyond repair, , and absolute protection from brake dust, for good,
On a personal note, bright shinny chrome is nice at the moment, but next few months they will be swapped over and stored as a spare set of wheels to another “black chrome “set,
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In the sun they go off and flash a new clean looking light show, better and brighter at night under lights,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/088_zpsyr4bxwrg.jpg.html]
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Out of the sun they give the appearance of clean new mags, please note the reflection from the hy-gloss black paint inside the back of the wheels reflecting a hy-gloss black line back into the chrome, almost looks like a black line is painted between and around the chrome, if you can see what I mean, another point of my interest is the hy-gloss black on the back inside of the rim, is wrinkle finish, my intention is to hy-gloss wrinkle finish all rotor and drums, caliper, shocks, surfaces that can be seen when looking at the wheel from a short distance, to highlight the visual effect of hy-shine chrome on hy-gloss black back ground undercarriage, no red or other color, next I hope will be before pics and DIY details, back asap.[/URL]
So let’s start with a few pretty pics, and please remember I am not trying or showing how to “repair or replace hard chrome faults, because I can’t, that is big dollar stuff, my methods are motivated around 1, the first visual “perception” of what people and I see first, example is driving in and out of a petrol station, I can see most people are attracted and looking at the wheels, thinking “nice new shinny chrome light show,” and comments like “oh nice new chrome mags ? ”, 2, the fact that I have not cleaned them for 3 months, indicating to me they either they visually stay cleaner longer, ???, or they always look cleaner than they actually are !. 3, motivation is to keep it super cheap $, DIY and put in the hours myself, and have a few sets of different wheels to change around as and when I feel like, spares. , and know with minimum effort maintaince, they will only look better with more shine as long as they do not get smashed beyond repair, , and absolute protection from brake dust, for good,
On a personal note, bright shinny chrome is nice at the moment, but next few months they will be swapped over and stored as a spare set of wheels to another “black chrome “set,
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In the sun they go off and flash a new clean looking light show, better and brighter at night under lights,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/088_zpsyr4bxwrg.jpg.html]
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Out of the sun they give the appearance of clean new mags, please note the reflection from the hy-gloss black paint inside the back of the wheels reflecting a hy-gloss black line back into the chrome, almost looks like a black line is painted between and around the chrome, if you can see what I mean, another point of my interest is the hy-gloss black on the back inside of the rim, is wrinkle finish, my intention is to hy-gloss wrinkle finish all rotor and drums, caliper, shocks, surfaces that can be seen when looking at the wheel from a short distance, to highlight the visual effect of hy-shine chrome on hy-gloss black back ground undercarriage, no red or other color, next I hope will be before pics and DIY details, back asap.[/URL]
Above pic shows, 2 of a very old free set of Chrome mags , pictured above, with oxidizing peeling chrome in most corners of the mag face, please note chrome lifting around air valves, and dark discoloration in corners as can be seen, a few corners had small fungus or moss growing in the blistering, gutter rash, they had been laying in someone’s back yard buried in high grass for years,, The other 2 mags were the same,
Step 1 cleaning the face, spray a heavy duty degreaser and gently work the wet surface with a paintbrush or plastic bristle brush for 15 mins. Maintain a hot air fan directed on to the back of the mag to try and keep it very warm,
Then spray the degreaser with a light wet spray of strong concentrated house hold bleach, wait ten minutes for the bleach to kill fungus and bacteria and wipe all dirt off while warm to hot with a throw away trash rag, wiping while spraying a little extra bleach, wearing rubber gloves, and eye protection, then use a small rag with paint thinners to wipe the wheel very clean, best you can, all very easy, only drink the beer. And don’t bother hosing with water at any time, please. Makes a mess. Keep the rim warm to hot at all times,, tire pressure will rise a little, no prob, Haz chem, B
These are the drill mounted wire brushes I used on the oxidized blistering bright hard chrome faces to remove and smooth blistered chrome to flat and smooth surface in the corners, reversing the direction of the low speed spinning brush allows first to remove flaking or blistering on both sides of the blistered area, also use a small wire brush to clean oxidization in the wheel nut holes, and around the air valve, and then smooth the hard chrome layer over exposed copper layer, also smoothing almost polishing into the alloy with the wire brush, and using the tip of a finger to feel the smoothness, my line of thought is chromium copper and zinc are all soft metals, the slowly rotating of the wire brush act like tiny hammers and beat and blend the soft metals to a smooth polish and smooth to touch, and shinny,
Then using a small variable speed drill mounted compressed wool polishing bits to buff and 12,000grit compound, within the wire brushed areas and in tight corners, buffing removes darker shading not really affected or easerly removed by the wire brush, leaving the chrome color and the copper color, and zinc color blended together under a fist stage hy-shine polished chrome reflection,
Than change to a variable speed only 5” angle grinder, fitted with 5” compressed wool buffing pad to cover the larger good chrome on face of the mag, , also only using a 12,000 grit buffing paste, usually used as a swirl remover on car paint, I find the combo of the compressed wool buffing surfaces and 12,000 grit compound polishes and removes a lot of the dark marks on the chrome off very easy, I do not remove deep scratches, just hide them. polishing at a mostly slow speeds is easy and safer, excessive high speed buffing creates blue heat patches with the 5”, except for the valve area, the 5” gets in or on or close and polishes areas nicely,
After buffing all over the wheel, wipe out the 1200 compound when it dries, soft cloth buff to a bright first stage hard chrome polish finish, and easy to see missed areas and areas that need more, just don’t expects to get it the first time, , than I apply a coat of nu-finish, please note, if you only want to polish the face of chrome alloys or chrome steel wheels on the car that is fine, do the backs later, or not, your choice,
Wire brushes are around 2-3 bucks, 5” compressed wool pads, 3-4 bucks, nu-finish 9 bucks on the best special. Up to 20bucks any time, 5” grinder / or buffing machine must be variable speed,110 bucks, drill must be variable and reversible, 135 bucks, small 12000 grit swirl removing bottle was a free sample gift, from the local auto paint supplier, for the asking, you only need a little bottle for wheels, and big bottle for cars,$50,
Then on the back of these mags I used all sizes of wire drill mounted brushes to remove all oxidization and loose chrome in wheel studs holes and around the lettering wheel nut bolt holes from the back, , everywhere, these areas all clean up nicely on the back of the rim, where the alloy mag was not painted or had any chrome, the alloy wire brush polishes and shines, even where the hub face and wheel face bolt together, , than I use the 5” multi flap sander discs around 280 grit that smooths out the blistered chrome and exposed blistering, ( please note I only use the flapper sanding disc on metal chrome, and cleaning up steel wheels, not on painted chrome or painted wheels,) maybe some hand 1200 grit hand sanding too. Than 1500 grit sand paper if you want the super flat hy-gloss silver or any color surface look, not hy gloss black wrinkle finish as above.
Clean with thinners, I then used a black enamel paint with a paint brush, after 1 coat with sanding, I washed the surface with soapy water and heat dried, and applied another black coat which quickly turned to a wrinkle finish, as I hoped.
Then I applied 3 coats of nu-finish giving the black hy gloss wrinkle finish, which again is the desired finish in this case, which is, a hy gloss chrome face, behind that in the rear of the wheels, brake calipers, rotors, shock, steering, inner guard will also done in hy gloss wrinkle black, 3 coats of nu-finish, no red calipers or any visible colored other parts, back asap.
This set of mags was polished quick by hand with brasso, ( please note, not the polishing tools shown above and used on the above set of mags ) please note and painted white and coated with nu-finish described in this thread, titled, “oxidizing and flaking clear coat solution”, picture post date 26/12/2013, and in this forum archives, around 2 and 1/2 years ago,
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Next is enamel white painted on the back,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/Photo1303_zpsbd74220d.jpg.html]
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Next shows same mags have been on my work ute for roughly 2 years 12 weeks, not many K’s, left in the weather, focus was to leave the dust on, and see if the nu-finish was affected, detect any faults like stone chips in the rim, or damage on the mag, that penetrated in and through the nu-finish protective coating, which was surprisingly easy, considering I was sitting on a blankets with my arm up in-between the spokes and how easy wiping nearly half the inside of the rim clean and hy-gloss white in seconds, the brake dust has no adhesion or reaction with the nu-finish surface at all in my experience, 2 years 10 weeks, I recommend using a microfiber cloth, it is just too easy, if there is something sticky like oil, or something growing like fungus, or bacteria, that will not come straight off with a dry m-cloth, just use another m-cloth damp with a light detergent, and a few seconds braking down the sticky stuff, and off it comes, easy, buff dry everything not sticky, with dry Microfiber cloth, just seconds, please note, a micro fiber cloth is slightly abrasive due to tiny invisible sharp plastic micro blade edges, and also contain micro grit storage areas, that lift the grit off the surface and are stored in the cloth, I would suggest the micro blades slid cleanly smoothly over the hard nu-finish surface, which means stone chips and damage that could have pierced the protective coating are easy to detect and may need attention, the question of how long in between coats is to access driving conditions and the environment, and chipping or gutter rash occurring, apply as required according to damage, 6 to 12 months, is anyone’s guess, I never put any more coats in the 2 years 10weeks, every new coat of nu-finish will seal previous stone chips ect that have occurred since the previous coat, and every new coat adds to dept and protection of previous coats, and increases the depth of shine, please note, in 15 years nu-finish never failed, if applied correctly, a bit of trial and error, always fixable, only human error,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/011_zpsfflewaoo.jpg.html]
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Please note, my assistant is still giving the nu-finish the same liquid acid test over two year plus, with no effect. ,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/016_zpswyfuyg78.jpg.html]
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Above pic show the back maybe last 3 months not cleaned, please note, the white line in between the chrome and dirty rear section is clean, and bright mirror reflection chrome, still looks clean, looks “clean” in the sun and an amazing bright light show at night, amazing.
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/014_zps4hgmmfyu.jpg.html]
Above pic show after a quick wipe out with damp mfcloth and dry mfcloth to buff, the only hard part is getting up and down off the ground, 2 years 10 weeks and it is as clean and shinny as the time it was done, see 4 yourself, no new visible sign of any oxidization, almost no maintenance, my observation is brake and rust dust, road grim, fungus and bacteria, plants, can and will NOT oxidize and methyl ate /live behind wheels, held there by the rotation of the wheel, and have no reaction or adheres ion to the nu-finish surface, that is what I observed and that is what happened. Soon the exact method and rough guesses on timing to apply 4 coats of nu-finish on the next new mags, ps, for anyones info, down under around here to paint a mag here including chips and scratch repair is around $250 each, down to $220. Forget chrome they say chrome lifts and lets air out of the tyre, please note, wheel experts charge a lot of money to roll the wheel a rim on their rim straightening machine, and paint the wheel, however if you insist that you will paint the rim, they told me to wait, and appeared not much later and charged a cheap price, what else could he do, he was not going to spend hours painting them ?? that is the big cost. which along with fact you can paint your own rims super cheap, speaks for itself, back asap,[/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL]
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Next is enamel white painted on the back,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/Photo1303_zpsbd74220d.jpg.html]
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Next shows same mags have been on my work ute for roughly 2 years 12 weeks, not many K’s, left in the weather, focus was to leave the dust on, and see if the nu-finish was affected, detect any faults like stone chips in the rim, or damage on the mag, that penetrated in and through the nu-finish protective coating, which was surprisingly easy, considering I was sitting on a blankets with my arm up in-between the spokes and how easy wiping nearly half the inside of the rim clean and hy-gloss white in seconds, the brake dust has no adhesion or reaction with the nu-finish surface at all in my experience, 2 years 10 weeks, I recommend using a microfiber cloth, it is just too easy, if there is something sticky like oil, or something growing like fungus, or bacteria, that will not come straight off with a dry m-cloth, just use another m-cloth damp with a light detergent, and a few seconds braking down the sticky stuff, and off it comes, easy, buff dry everything not sticky, with dry Microfiber cloth, just seconds, please note, a micro fiber cloth is slightly abrasive due to tiny invisible sharp plastic micro blade edges, and also contain micro grit storage areas, that lift the grit off the surface and are stored in the cloth, I would suggest the micro blades slid cleanly smoothly over the hard nu-finish surface, which means stone chips and damage that could have pierced the protective coating are easy to detect and may need attention, the question of how long in between coats is to access driving conditions and the environment, and chipping or gutter rash occurring, apply as required according to damage, 6 to 12 months, is anyone’s guess, I never put any more coats in the 2 years 10weeks, every new coat of nu-finish will seal previous stone chips ect that have occurred since the previous coat, and every new coat adds to dept and protection of previous coats, and increases the depth of shine, please note, in 15 years nu-finish never failed, if applied correctly, a bit of trial and error, always fixable, only human error,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/011_zpsfflewaoo.jpg.html]
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Please note, my assistant is still giving the nu-finish the same liquid acid test over two year plus, with no effect. ,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/016_zpswyfuyg78.jpg.html]
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Above pic show the back maybe last 3 months not cleaned, please note, the white line in between the chrome and dirty rear section is clean, and bright mirror reflection chrome, still looks clean, looks “clean” in the sun and an amazing bright light show at night, amazing.
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/014_zps4hgmmfyu.jpg.html]
Above pic show after a quick wipe out with damp mfcloth and dry mfcloth to buff, the only hard part is getting up and down off the ground, 2 years 10 weeks and it is as clean and shinny as the time it was done, see 4 yourself, no new visible sign of any oxidization, almost no maintenance, my observation is brake and rust dust, road grim, fungus and bacteria, plants, can and will NOT oxidize and methyl ate /live behind wheels, held there by the rotation of the wheel, and have no reaction or adheres ion to the nu-finish surface, that is what I observed and that is what happened. Soon the exact method and rough guesses on timing to apply 4 coats of nu-finish on the next new mags, ps, for anyones info, down under around here to paint a mag here including chips and scratch repair is around $250 each, down to $220. Forget chrome they say chrome lifts and lets air out of the tyre, please note, wheel experts charge a lot of money to roll the wheel a rim on their rim straightening machine, and paint the wheel, however if you insist that you will paint the rim, they told me to wait, and appeared not much later and charged a cheap price, what else could he do, he was not going to spend hours painting them ?? that is the big cost. which along with fact you can paint your own rims super cheap, speaks for itself, back asap,[/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL]
Next nu-finish applied to new “painted” black chrome alloy light weight rims, $365 off ebay and my method of applying multi coats on any new mags without tires, , (or restored or repainted wheels with or without tires,), again trial and error, 
wins and I would not try it any faster, yet.
First, I set the rim (or rim and tires) on rollers and make it easy to rotate, I wrapped the metal rollers in tap to give a soft ride, these rollers are a must, or place a rim on top of a plastic milk crate covered with a towel, and a rim spins fine, next is some new finish and small water damp scrap cloth, and few clean spare scrap cloths, I only apply and remove nu-finish cool or just warm rim temps, and focus on covering every square inch of the rim for max protection, valve hole, recesses in the back of the hub, wheel nut holes, cool the liquid feels better going on, applying a coat on these 16 spoke wheels took about 20 -25 minutes, ( 5 spoke take about 10 – 12 mins )after which I covered the rim with a thick bath towel and from 6-8 inches away I directed a hot air fan on high under the towel, and left it there for 15 mins, it got hot quick and started the nu-finish curing process, and shows white powder on surface, which is the optimum and easiest time to remove the white powder residue, to remove the residue I used 2 big thick heavy socks, nice and soft, one on each hand, both thumb and forefingers on both sides of the spoke each hand, once clean replace the towel and reheat for 6 to 8 hours, repeat method 4 times to get 4 coats, x 4 rims,
Pic of rim on wagon,
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Back asap.,
wins and I would not try it any faster, yet.First, I set the rim (or rim and tires) on rollers and make it easy to rotate, I wrapped the metal rollers in tap to give a soft ride, these rollers are a must, or place a rim on top of a plastic milk crate covered with a towel, and a rim spins fine, next is some new finish and small water damp scrap cloth, and few clean spare scrap cloths, I only apply and remove nu-finish cool or just warm rim temps, and focus on covering every square inch of the rim for max protection, valve hole, recesses in the back of the hub, wheel nut holes, cool the liquid feels better going on, applying a coat on these 16 spoke wheels took about 20 -25 minutes, ( 5 spoke take about 10 – 12 mins )after which I covered the rim with a thick bath towel and from 6-8 inches away I directed a hot air fan on high under the towel, and left it there for 15 mins, it got hot quick and started the nu-finish curing process, and shows white powder on surface, which is the optimum and easiest time to remove the white powder residue, to remove the residue I used 2 big thick heavy socks, nice and soft, one on each hand, both thumb and forefingers on both sides of the spoke each hand, once clean replace the towel and reheat for 6 to 8 hours, repeat method 4 times to get 4 coats, x 4 rims,
Pic of rim on wagon,
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Back asap.,
My apologies Sontakke, I meant this message to be in front of my last post. Copy and paste mistake,
Thanks Sontakke, I will do my best. 10/4 on the pics,,
One more black chrome painted mag pic, in the sun this time, if any of the edges of the rims sitting on the blue sheet look deformed, blame the sheet, please ,
Please note the bare and exposed alloy inside the mounting face, on the mag on the left, bare alloy, no paint or protection, now fully coated in nu-finish, rear of the rim appears hy-gloss painted black, all part of the illusion, please note there is a valve fitted, and 2 off white spots on the back outside edge of the rim,, chips, one at 11 o’clock, other about 5 o’clock, this rim was fitted with a tire than removed, and the chips were made on the tire fitting machine, my intention is too mix some black paint x chrome paint and touch them up after the tires are fitted, just in case my tire fitter puts a few more scratches on too, next rim shows fully coated chrome and black plastic mag wheel center CAP, also coated and completely protected from Low Band Ultra Violet Radiation, and definitely will not fade or yellow, if the protective coating is not removed, or damaged, stone chipped or scratched, next mag appears fully chrome in the center, next mag appears black in the center, and all four show the clean white sparkle spots reflected from the sun through 4 layers of n-finish, please note the sparkle of pure white,
Just another note on the black chrome mags,
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[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/019_zpsukinroph.jpg.html]
this afternoon I picked up this Gold chrome silver painted mag for buffing and n/f coating, , which I will post pics on the resto if that is all right with everyone, ??. 2 more point of interest here, 1, the tires contour on this mag will be very similar to what I am thinking for the black chrome mags, 2, due to the tire contour on this rim, and if it falls over it lands on the rim and tears the chrome paint off, as can be seen, same as light gutter rash, my line of thought is gold is easier than chrome to paint, so I will speak to the owner about a gold pin stripe around the outside of the chrome, again gold is easier to paint, and make any future gutter rash repairs easier, might look good too. ??. the rear of the rims is fair but have had a little brake on them for a long time, I have cleaned half of the rim, and already found spots of oxidation, and will fully paint the back of this mag, great news, I hunted down some small sample gold spray cans yesterday, 2 for $20, first choice looks really close to the right color ,
Next next 3 of a set of wheels are restored and painted silver,
sorry no pics on doing it, I do not know what I was thinking, anyway the story about these painted silver mags is like this, they came into my clutches freely, and most of the silver clear coat on and around the spokes in good condition and was buff able, slight gravel rash, a few chips on both sides front and back, 3 very very old tires, and one tire that was softer, 5 stud dual pattern, ford or GMH, fitted my trailer, and work ute at the time, so I did them with the tires on, and they looked fine except for one scratch, I missed completely, please note, I really do not try hard to find every little scratch or chip, before I put paint and clear coat, AND n/f, easy to fix missed scratches and chips later, then we were off to the tire shop to get the old tires off, first softer tire came off easy, second rim, first hard old tire jammed the metal tire metal glide , it went straight to the alloy, 5” of gone paint, tire fitted says he is sorry and will fix it, by the time he got the tire off, he ripped ¾ of the paint off the rim, like a bad ¾ gutter rash, but like he said, “he or his cousin panel beater would fix it”, 2 weeks later, I took the mag and fixed it myself,[/URL]
Thanks Sontakke, I will do my best. 10/4 on the pics,,
One more black chrome painted mag pic, in the sun this time, if any of the edges of the rims sitting on the blue sheet look deformed, blame the sheet, please ,
Please note the bare and exposed alloy inside the mounting face, on the mag on the left, bare alloy, no paint or protection, now fully coated in nu-finish, rear of the rim appears hy-gloss painted black, all part of the illusion, please note there is a valve fitted, and 2 off white spots on the back outside edge of the rim,, chips, one at 11 o’clock, other about 5 o’clock, this rim was fitted with a tire than removed, and the chips were made on the tire fitting machine, my intention is too mix some black paint x chrome paint and touch them up after the tires are fitted, just in case my tire fitter puts a few more scratches on too, next rim shows fully coated chrome and black plastic mag wheel center CAP, also coated and completely protected from Low Band Ultra Violet Radiation, and definitely will not fade or yellow, if the protective coating is not removed, or damaged, stone chipped or scratched, next mag appears fully chrome in the center, next mag appears black in the center, and all four show the clean white sparkle spots reflected from the sun through 4 layers of n-finish, please note the sparkle of pure white,
Just another note on the black chrome mags,
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[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/019_zpsukinroph.jpg.html]
this afternoon I picked up this Gold chrome silver painted mag for buffing and n/f coating, , which I will post pics on the resto if that is all right with everyone, ??. 2 more point of interest here, 1, the tires contour on this mag will be very similar to what I am thinking for the black chrome mags, 2, due to the tire contour on this rim, and if it falls over it lands on the rim and tears the chrome paint off, as can be seen, same as light gutter rash, my line of thought is gold is easier than chrome to paint, so I will speak to the owner about a gold pin stripe around the outside of the chrome, again gold is easier to paint, and make any future gutter rash repairs easier, might look good too. ??. the rear of the rims is fair but have had a little brake on them for a long time, I have cleaned half of the rim, and already found spots of oxidation, and will fully paint the back of this mag, great news, I hunted down some small sample gold spray cans yesterday, 2 for $20, first choice looks really close to the right color ,
Next next 3 of a set of wheels are restored and painted silver,
sorry no pics on doing it, I do not know what I was thinking, anyway the story about these painted silver mags is like this, they came into my clutches freely, and most of the silver clear coat on and around the spokes in good condition and was buff able, slight gravel rash, a few chips on both sides front and back, 3 very very old tires, and one tire that was softer, 5 stud dual pattern, ford or GMH, fitted my trailer, and work ute at the time, so I did them with the tires on, and they looked fine except for one scratch, I missed completely, please note, I really do not try hard to find every little scratch or chip, before I put paint and clear coat, AND n/f, easy to fix missed scratches and chips later, then we were off to the tire shop to get the old tires off, first softer tire came off easy, second rim, first hard old tire jammed the metal tire metal glide , it went straight to the alloy, 5” of gone paint, tire fitted says he is sorry and will fix it, by the time he got the tire off, he ripped ¾ of the paint off the rim, like a bad ¾ gutter rash, but like he said, “he or his cousin panel beater would fix it”, 2 weeks later, I took the mag and fixed it myself,[/URL]
Ok, lost this post last night due to late night fatigue, so let’s do it again, arrr, please note the above 3 silver mags, mag on the left, and focus between the tire bead seats, where the tire seats, before I filled and painted under where the tire is mounted, there was a few scratches from a tire lever iron, they were oxidizing into the paint, but no prob , both painted bead seats were impregnated with old rubber wear residue, please note the rubber residue should definitely “NOT” be sanded off, please wash the rubber residue off with multi paint thinners, ((even in the pitted spots it is the easiest and quickest way,))(( opposed to sanding a lot or a little, and having to spray many coats of primer or thick coats of hi-fill to get back the thickness and flatness in the surface,, )) , rubber residue all washes out and my method is to fill the pitting, chipping, scratching in the old paint and hi-fill undercoat with plastic putty, and sand the plastic putty lightly, then paint wheel silver with a spray can, , and multi coat with n/f, my line of thought is “sanding out pitted, chipped ,scratched areas on painted alloy mags doubles and triples the time required to do a repair, next is a fact of life, silver and a very few other colors will not “”” sparkle “”” as much as hard chrome or hy-gloss black ect, painted mags, but I do like to see the thick clear clean protective coating up close,
Back asap, next is the chrome and gold painted mag above, diy, sanding / buffing / masking / painting / methods, I promise the methods are different, scary, and fast,
Back asap, next is the chrome and gold painted mag above, diy, sanding / buffing / masking / painting / methods, I promise the methods are different, scary, and fast,
I buffed the gold paint with a small compressed wool bit that I ground a bit smaller, using 12,000 grit swirl remover, which came up pretty good, few chips, red circles.
Which I will touch up later with an artist brush, please note, the gold and chrome mag is fairly old, lead weights on the outer rim are the older style, stick on lead weights being the newer, meaning I found some oxidization on the very thin layer of painted chrome, which I gently “””hand “” buffed with 12,000 grit, yellow circle. I remove the old weights for painting as new tires will be fitted,
Then 2 coats of n/f. looks good under med inside lights.
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Better in the sun with an air valve,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/007_zps5umtcqaz.jpg.html]
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Without a air valve,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/005_zpso8ncn2if.jpg.html]
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Back asap[/url][/URL]
Which I will touch up later with an artist brush, please note, the gold and chrome mag is fairly old, lead weights on the outer rim are the older style, stick on lead weights being the newer, meaning I found some oxidization on the very thin layer of painted chrome, which I gently “””hand “” buffed with 12,000 grit, yellow circle. I remove the old weights for painting as new tires will be fitted,
Then 2 coats of n/f. looks good under med inside lights.
[/URL]
Better in the sun with an air valve,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/007_zps5umtcqaz.jpg.html]
[/URL]Without a air valve,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/005_zpso8ncn2if.jpg.html]
[/URL]
Back asap[/url][/URL]
Sorry, please note on the face of the gold mag above, the edge around the chrome rim is or was a sort of silver with some gutter rash, I spoke to the owner and suggested a 5mm gold pin strip, he said to do what I think looks best, I think it best to check with his wife too, ha. other options might be a bright red pin strip, black pin strip, or even the color I may paint the car with, light metallic blue, ???, 2 points of interest here are, which ever color pin strip is chosen,1, it can eagerly be changed, 2. painted edges is easy to fix future gutter rash,
Rear of the mag was oxidized throughout to a thin coat of gold paint, I lightly dry sanded ( 1200 grit dry.) and the thin old gold coat pretty much fell off,
[/URL
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Wipe the rear of the rim with thinners and paint,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/004_zpsbrcxw5nw.jpg.html]
Please note, I did not use any masking tape at all, I use “the controlled overspray method”, where I apply n/f to all over the face of the mag, any over spray settles on the applied n/f and is wiped off with the n/f residue “immediately” after painting. Or I cut out cardboard shapes to fit inbetween the spokes to block overspray spraying through the spokes at all, and or toilet paper can be slightly moistened with thinners and crushed or mashed into “packing” forced into the spaces between spokes, usually when I do the mash packing method and the cutout card board method, I can use them on the other 3 wheels to block overspray passing through the spokes,
Middle of the flat section in the rim, I tilt the angle of spray at the flat section so as to blow any overspray, out through the face, when using the n/f method, on a personal note, I hate masking up a mag. red arrows show a piece thin cardboard cut to shape, and be used with med pressure and guidance to carefully slide in between the tire and rim to stop overspray getting on the tire, yellow arrows show groove in the rim, that needs to be back sprayed to ensure overall coverage on both sides of the groove, please note, I wipe wet overspray off the cardboard every time I spray roughly a 150mm section, or it will drip on to the fresh paint. Please note, being able to rotate the wheel or rim on rollers, makes it so easy to overlap the paint on each section and maintain arm and wrist movement rhythm, stopping putting down the spray can and wiping the card board clean, pick up the spray can with one hand, and rotate the wheel or rim, 1/16 of a turn with the cardboard in your hand, position the card board, hold steady, with the other hand holding the spray can ready to lay the same spray pattern overlapping the last spray pattern three times, and three layers to build up a good coat without runs, I usually locate the air valve looking through the spokes, and rotate / spray, and spray sort bursts, and again rotate the wheel around 1/16 of a turn, until back to the air valve, please note, that is 48 x 1/16 turns, plus 32 1/16 rotations for 2 coats of acrylic clear, total 80 1/16 rotations,
Here is a quick sketch of a diy Mag roller set up, black lines show ??? 50mm x 150mm any wood drilled to suit, green lines show short lengths of dowel or broom handle pressed through holes, red lines show PVC or plastic pipe x 2, blue lines show where plastic pipe is fitted on the dowls and spins freely, maybe some bees wax as lub. Nice clean wood and plastic so you can clean your wheels in the kitchen,
So I spray 2-3 rotation with base coat color, x 2 -3, I am guessing about 50 to 60 micron thick coating, “without” filling in the very fine lines around both the face and the back of the rim, they look like press or machine marks pressed in the paint and chrome surface, to maintain the originality of the mags, pics coming, ((on the other hand I or you could spend some time to sand out the machine marks to get a flat mirror finish, again using the 1/16 rotation method promotes continuous even sanding, x3 each rotation clean off any sanding dust and change the grade of dry paper starting at 800, 1200 , 1500,to sand the rear of the mag super flat,) ) and remember to wipe the cardboard clean every time , and you spray again, right around the rim. also use a hot air fan to keep the mag and paint warm at all times, and quicken drying times = no runs, also after drying for a few hours I lightly dry sand with 1200 to 1500 grit dry paper in-between 2 coats of bass color, WARNING DANGER do not over heat spray cans in the oven with the mags, I usually carry small spray tins in my pockets to get it to body temps, or only place them just in the oven enough to get some heat from the oven, not the full heat that a mag reaches when drying paint coatings and n/f coatings, , and shake well before spraying , works for me, minus the hours of time taken to mask up 4 wheels this method is pretty quick also when painting I also focus on section the previously painted 1/16 rotation combined with lighting to see the reflection in each previouse section is evenly covered with a thin wet coat, very thin, no runs, also on these machine surface type painted wheels I apply the nu-finish in a parallel fashion or around the rim with the machine mark grooves, and remove the freshly cool residue in a circle-r motion around the inside of the wheel, finishing lightly a circle-r wipe, remembering the surface is still soft, my line of thought is I have already applied 2 coats of clear to try and fill in the machine marks or groves as much as possible, to get a flat shiny surface on the acrylic clear layer, than apply the nu-finish layers to flatten out the surface more, and still maintain the machine marks visually, but not be able to really feel them with finger tips,
Always keep the thinners and small piece of torn rag handy, after painting, ,
How much does spay canning 4 wheels cost, first I purchased 2 small spray tins of 150g at $10 each, on special and usually $13 each, my best 2 guesses at color matching the gold color, neither matched, and yes I should have took the mag to shop with me, I have since purchased 2 more tins at $20 which I am happy with the color match, I intend to use the miss matched colors as base coats, and the other 2 spray cans that are the correct color as top coats, and 4 x 150g should do the 4 mags, $40 dollars for 600g of paint, if I know the color required, eg ultra white, I purchase 2 x 350g cans at $17,50, and pay $35 for 700g, and have some left over, I also have a litre of un- thinned primer, $35 nice and thick to fill chips and scratches with a brush, and a small tin of plastic putty, $35, one spray can of clear, 350g, $12 - $15 usually does 4 painted mags, totaling about $50 in paint, to do 4 mags, Below picture shows some of my little wheel paint collection, sorry, I am having phone camera pics to computer probs, back asap,
Just one more point here too, (this is the scary bit), is from my experience of 10 years of trail and error is I have been applying paint and n/f over the paint, please note I have also painted “over the n/f surface , this hard to explain so my line of thought is to make an observation, that will be to polish a small alloy piece to gain a chrome reflection, , also a small piece of hardened steel (maybe a tow bar tongue) polished to a chrome reflection, coat them both with n/f, when that is cured spray paint a bright color over small section on each and when the paint is cured, apply more /nf coatings, spray more small patches of paint, please note in my 10 years experience I have done that heaps on many surfaces, I have never seen any reaction or fault, such as orange peeling, wrinkle, flaking, oxidizing, no etch primer, no undercoat primer, just n/f and paint, that is the scary truth, try it yourself,[/URL]
Rear of the mag was oxidized throughout to a thin coat of gold paint, I lightly dry sanded ( 1200 grit dry.) and the thin old gold coat pretty much fell off,
[/URL]
Wipe the rear of the rim with thinners and paint,
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/philburridge/media/004_zpsbrcxw5nw.jpg.html]
Please note, I did not use any masking tape at all, I use “the controlled overspray method”, where I apply n/f to all over the face of the mag, any over spray settles on the applied n/f and is wiped off with the n/f residue “immediately” after painting. Or I cut out cardboard shapes to fit inbetween the spokes to block overspray spraying through the spokes at all, and or toilet paper can be slightly moistened with thinners and crushed or mashed into “packing” forced into the spaces between spokes, usually when I do the mash packing method and the cutout card board method, I can use them on the other 3 wheels to block overspray passing through the spokes,
Middle of the flat section in the rim, I tilt the angle of spray at the flat section so as to blow any overspray, out through the face, when using the n/f method, on a personal note, I hate masking up a mag. red arrows show a piece thin cardboard cut to shape, and be used with med pressure and guidance to carefully slide in between the tire and rim to stop overspray getting on the tire, yellow arrows show groove in the rim, that needs to be back sprayed to ensure overall coverage on both sides of the groove, please note, I wipe wet overspray off the cardboard every time I spray roughly a 150mm section, or it will drip on to the fresh paint. Please note, being able to rotate the wheel or rim on rollers, makes it so easy to overlap the paint on each section and maintain arm and wrist movement rhythm, stopping putting down the spray can and wiping the card board clean, pick up the spray can with one hand, and rotate the wheel or rim, 1/16 of a turn with the cardboard in your hand, position the card board, hold steady, with the other hand holding the spray can ready to lay the same spray pattern overlapping the last spray pattern three times, and three layers to build up a good coat without runs, I usually locate the air valve looking through the spokes, and rotate / spray, and spray sort bursts, and again rotate the wheel around 1/16 of a turn, until back to the air valve, please note, that is 48 x 1/16 turns, plus 32 1/16 rotations for 2 coats of acrylic clear, total 80 1/16 rotations,
Here is a quick sketch of a diy Mag roller set up, black lines show ??? 50mm x 150mm any wood drilled to suit, green lines show short lengths of dowel or broom handle pressed through holes, red lines show PVC or plastic pipe x 2, blue lines show where plastic pipe is fitted on the dowls and spins freely, maybe some bees wax as lub. Nice clean wood and plastic so you can clean your wheels in the kitchen,
So I spray 2-3 rotation with base coat color, x 2 -3, I am guessing about 50 to 60 micron thick coating, “without” filling in the very fine lines around both the face and the back of the rim, they look like press or machine marks pressed in the paint and chrome surface, to maintain the originality of the mags, pics coming, ((on the other hand I or you could spend some time to sand out the machine marks to get a flat mirror finish, again using the 1/16 rotation method promotes continuous even sanding, x3 each rotation clean off any sanding dust and change the grade of dry paper starting at 800, 1200 , 1500,to sand the rear of the mag super flat,) ) and remember to wipe the cardboard clean every time , and you spray again, right around the rim. also use a hot air fan to keep the mag and paint warm at all times, and quicken drying times = no runs, also after drying for a few hours I lightly dry sand with 1200 to 1500 grit dry paper in-between 2 coats of bass color, WARNING DANGER do not over heat spray cans in the oven with the mags, I usually carry small spray tins in my pockets to get it to body temps, or only place them just in the oven enough to get some heat from the oven, not the full heat that a mag reaches when drying paint coatings and n/f coatings, , and shake well before spraying , works for me, minus the hours of time taken to mask up 4 wheels this method is pretty quick also when painting I also focus on section the previously painted 1/16 rotation combined with lighting to see the reflection in each previouse section is evenly covered with a thin wet coat, very thin, no runs, also on these machine surface type painted wheels I apply the nu-finish in a parallel fashion or around the rim with the machine mark grooves, and remove the freshly cool residue in a circle-r motion around the inside of the wheel, finishing lightly a circle-r wipe, remembering the surface is still soft, my line of thought is I have already applied 2 coats of clear to try and fill in the machine marks or groves as much as possible, to get a flat shiny surface on the acrylic clear layer, than apply the nu-finish layers to flatten out the surface more, and still maintain the machine marks visually, but not be able to really feel them with finger tips,
Always keep the thinners and small piece of torn rag handy, after painting, ,
How much does spay canning 4 wheels cost, first I purchased 2 small spray tins of 150g at $10 each, on special and usually $13 each, my best 2 guesses at color matching the gold color, neither matched, and yes I should have took the mag to shop with me, I have since purchased 2 more tins at $20 which I am happy with the color match, I intend to use the miss matched colors as base coats, and the other 2 spray cans that are the correct color as top coats, and 4 x 150g should do the 4 mags, $40 dollars for 600g of paint, if I know the color required, eg ultra white, I purchase 2 x 350g cans at $17,50, and pay $35 for 700g, and have some left over, I also have a litre of un- thinned primer, $35 nice and thick to fill chips and scratches with a brush, and a small tin of plastic putty, $35, one spray can of clear, 350g, $12 - $15 usually does 4 painted mags, totaling about $50 in paint, to do 4 mags, Below picture shows some of my little wheel paint collection, sorry, I am having phone camera pics to computer probs, back asap,
Just one more point here too, (this is the scary bit), is from my experience of 10 years of trail and error is I have been applying paint and n/f over the paint, please note I have also painted “over the n/f surface , this hard to explain so my line of thought is to make an observation, that will be to polish a small alloy piece to gain a chrome reflection, , also a small piece of hardened steel (maybe a tow bar tongue) polished to a chrome reflection, coat them both with n/f, when that is cured spray paint a bright color over small section on each and when the paint is cured, apply more /nf coatings, spray more small patches of paint, please note in my 10 years experience I have done that heaps on many surfaces, I have never seen any reaction or fault, such as orange peeling, wrinkle, flaking, oxidizing, no etch primer, no undercoat primer, just n/f and paint, that is the scary truth, try it yourself,[/URL]
When you mentioned the NuFinish, were you talking about the Walmart purchased red/orange bottle?
Yes Sir,
NuFinish, once a year, orange bottle, white cap, black writing, a long time back I got it on special for $9, $12, $15 but usually around $18 to $21 a bottle, super cheap, autobahn, we have K-mart here, but I have never seen or looked there, please post some pics of the wheels, or whatever you are wanting to try and apply on first, I would be happy to help change your life, diy,
I had some camera / pic probs, got that sorted, now I am having a power prob, resulting in a delay on the red pin strip on the face of the gold mag, touch ups and final coats of n/f, actually I am struggling with the color co=ordination on this whole car, ???, red on chrome on gold on light metallic blue, ??,
This pic shows the fine machine marks in the gold paint inside the back of the wheel, also in the chrome, I have seen a few sets like this, not many, please note, if the oxidization were worse and pitting required plastic filling, that would require sanding flat and leaving looking patchy, so I would have sanded all the backs of the set to get the super flat mirror gloss surface, but as I said I am trying to keep the originality, and restore them as close to new as possible, but again I have not seen the other 3 gold mags so we shall see, please also note I never ever use the 5” sander buffer with flapper sand paper on painted mags, rips them up too much, hand sanding, I have tried mouse and all sorts sanders and not happy, I think it is all about the shape and surface contours of a wheel,
Next pic shows paints and brushes, sorry, I forgot to add a small tin of plastic auto filler, and 1lt of acylic primer, not thinned,
NuFinish, once a year, orange bottle, white cap, black writing, a long time back I got it on special for $9, $12, $15 but usually around $18 to $21 a bottle, super cheap, autobahn, we have K-mart here, but I have never seen or looked there, please post some pics of the wheels, or whatever you are wanting to try and apply on first, I would be happy to help change your life, diy,
I had some camera / pic probs, got that sorted, now I am having a power prob, resulting in a delay on the red pin strip on the face of the gold mag, touch ups and final coats of n/f, actually I am struggling with the color co=ordination on this whole car, ???, red on chrome on gold on light metallic blue, ??,
This pic shows the fine machine marks in the gold paint inside the back of the wheel, also in the chrome, I have seen a few sets like this, not many, please note, if the oxidization were worse and pitting required plastic filling, that would require sanding flat and leaving looking patchy, so I would have sanded all the backs of the set to get the super flat mirror gloss surface, but as I said I am trying to keep the originality, and restore them as close to new as possible, but again I have not seen the other 3 gold mags so we shall see, please also note I never ever use the 5” sander buffer with flapper sand paper on painted mags, rips them up too much, hand sanding, I have tried mouse and all sorts sanders and not happy, I think it is all about the shape and surface contours of a wheel,
Next pic shows paints and brushes, sorry, I forgot to add a small tin of plastic auto filler, and 1lt of acylic primer, not thinned,
This pic shows a few chips and scratches, I located a chip that had a lifting edge, and used a razor blade to lift it up and brake / cut it off, than cleaned around the hole with the tip of the razor blade, and washed with thinners and warm air dried, at this point no sanding really required,
I then turned the mag on it’s back and drop paint in the chip holes, trying to slowly and carefully fill the hole level inside the chip to and level, with the surrounding edges, 2 options here, 1, if it looks good enough leave it, 2, using the corner of a small piece of 1500grit, sand the surface only around the chip hole to close to level, than finish with 2000grit, buff with drill mounted compressed wool bit and 12000 grit buff swirl remover until hi-gloss, please note. slight miss match between the old uv damaged darker gold paint, and the new spray tin gold color, Please note most of the other 25 or so chips they are not quite right, so I could try mixing a few different gold colors out of the spray tins, or also please note, in my 10 solid years experience with n/f coatings is it has an amazing ability to visually blend slightly miss matched colors, 3 coats of n/f would and does in my experience makes a slight color miss match so much less visible a lot of people can live with just a slightest miss match to prepare to fix or blend the miss match with exactly the right color,like I am doing , for example, please scroll back up to the pics of the red wagon with the chrome mags, and the pic of the car in the sun, and note the left hand front guard is different than the bonnet, and pass door, and the rest of the wagon, the story on this wagon is a low K car, well serviced, had a little accident that scared the owner into replacing all front panels with super good second hand panels, by a good panel shop, that painted the engine bay, front guards, front bumper and below the door handle to below the taillights, and rear bar with off the paint code number, which had a considerably less red and peal pigment content than the original bright pearl red color on the roof, tailgate, and above the door handles to the taillights, it was virtually a beautifull shade and a horrible shade 2 tone wagon, except for the top of the bonnet, it remained mat black , the owner looked at the car and saw the miss match and lost interest and later virtually gave the car to me, , I was able to match the peal rich color correctly and paint the bonnet., ( more on getting good quality paint matched near perfect first time,and in spay tins, cost a bit more method, later,4 x 250g spray tins near perfect match, $150, ) my point is 2 coats of n/f made the tone or 2 visibly different shades on the wagon very unnoticeable as I think can be seen in the pics above, my point is the touch up color I painted on the gold mag was not quite right either, and I will leave it as a “observation” and coat it with three coats of n/f, and show how unnoticeable it becomes to the owner, once I am sure he has not noticed it, I will point out the miss matched shade chip and ask him or inform him it is easy to fix now “ and because ” it is coated with 3 coats of cured n/f,
Please note another method for touch up is to spray some paint into the lid and use a artist brush for those are not aware, please note, paint out of a spray tin has or is thinner than the normal flip the lid and stick in a paint brush tin of paint, ,
Also getting the urge to try and change the above hard chrome mags on the wagon to painted candy apple red hard chrome, I have seen candy apple red black painted mags which were amazing and expensive, , and I have black chrome, trial and error.
Also. Today I noticed one of the wagon above hard chrome mags tires was low on pressure, why and how story coming soon, along with my solution method,
I then turned the mag on it’s back and drop paint in the chip holes, trying to slowly and carefully fill the hole level inside the chip to and level, with the surrounding edges, 2 options here, 1, if it looks good enough leave it, 2, using the corner of a small piece of 1500grit, sand the surface only around the chip hole to close to level, than finish with 2000grit, buff with drill mounted compressed wool bit and 12000 grit buff swirl remover until hi-gloss, please note. slight miss match between the old uv damaged darker gold paint, and the new spray tin gold color, Please note most of the other 25 or so chips they are not quite right, so I could try mixing a few different gold colors out of the spray tins, or also please note, in my 10 solid years experience with n/f coatings is it has an amazing ability to visually blend slightly miss matched colors, 3 coats of n/f would and does in my experience makes a slight color miss match so much less visible a lot of people can live with just a slightest miss match to prepare to fix or blend the miss match with exactly the right color,like I am doing , for example, please scroll back up to the pics of the red wagon with the chrome mags, and the pic of the car in the sun, and note the left hand front guard is different than the bonnet, and pass door, and the rest of the wagon, the story on this wagon is a low K car, well serviced, had a little accident that scared the owner into replacing all front panels with super good second hand panels, by a good panel shop, that painted the engine bay, front guards, front bumper and below the door handle to below the taillights, and rear bar with off the paint code number, which had a considerably less red and peal pigment content than the original bright pearl red color on the roof, tailgate, and above the door handles to the taillights, it was virtually a beautifull shade and a horrible shade 2 tone wagon, except for the top of the bonnet, it remained mat black , the owner looked at the car and saw the miss match and lost interest and later virtually gave the car to me, , I was able to match the peal rich color correctly and paint the bonnet., ( more on getting good quality paint matched near perfect first time,and in spay tins, cost a bit more method, later,4 x 250g spray tins near perfect match, $150, ) my point is 2 coats of n/f made the tone or 2 visibly different shades on the wagon very unnoticeable as I think can be seen in the pics above, my point is the touch up color I painted on the gold mag was not quite right either, and I will leave it as a “observation” and coat it with three coats of n/f, and show how unnoticeable it becomes to the owner, once I am sure he has not noticed it, I will point out the miss matched shade chip and ask him or inform him it is easy to fix now “ and because ” it is coated with 3 coats of cured n/f,
Please note another method for touch up is to spray some paint into the lid and use a artist brush for those are not aware, please note, paint out of a spray tin has or is thinner than the normal flip the lid and stick in a paint brush tin of paint, ,
Also getting the urge to try and change the above hard chrome mags on the wagon to painted candy apple red hard chrome, I have seen candy apple red black painted mags which were amazing and expensive, , and I have black chrome, trial and error.
Also. Today I noticed one of the wagon above hard chrome mags tires was low on pressure, why and how story coming soon, along with my solution method,
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