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Overclocking & Cooling the AMD Athlon 2000+ Thorton/Barton Core

hevnsnt

Lifer
I got the 2000+ thorton/Barton core + & ECS K7VTA3 v8 from here

and I am in the market for something to cool it. I have been away from the cooling scene for awhile and I am looking for the best bang for the buck. I want to overclock it a bit, but I don't need to squeeze everything I can out of it.

What do you all recommend for it?

I know you all will probably recommend a Thermalright SLK-900(A) but SVC is out of stock and I want to order some other stuff from there, so I would like some recommendations.

Thanks!
 
coolmaster aero 7+

has great quiet ability and u can turn it up during gameplay 🙂

btw: did you do that L2 mod yet? if so, what does it say on your bios compared to your post-bootup screen, (the table bootup showing all ur specs) ..

thanks, lmk and gl 🙂
 
Originally posted by: kitkit201


btw: did you do that L2 mod yet? if so, what does it say on your bios compared to your post-bootup screen, (the table bootup showing all ur specs) ..

thanks, lmk and gl 🙂

I have done the mod, but have not fired it up due to me needing a fan.. 😉

 
you can use any hsf for now, it wont over heat, im using a cheapo coolermaster thats spinning at ~4000rpm and it's getting low 40*C without arctic silver, so that's not bad, comon and put a fan on, so you can tell me what it's posting as on your cache!!
 
Originally posted by: hevnsnt
getting some strange results.. See PIC

Showing as a Thorton? 256k? Guess my mod didn't take.. lol

I got the exact same thing. Running fine at 166MHz FSB (2600+) but couldn't enable the full 512KB of cache.
 
Has anyone used the GC68 in this thread.. Seems like it might be OK as these are cooler .13 micron CPUs.

Also, I am not sure if this heatsink will fit the K7VTA3 that was part of the Fry's combo.
 
Originally posted by: WallStreet
Has anyone used the GC68 in this thread.. Seems like it might be OK as these are cooler .13 micron CPUs.

Also, I am not sure if this heatsink will fit the K7VTA3 that was part of the Fry's combo.

GC68 will work fine. It's the same as Speeze heatsink Newegg sells. It's relatively quiet and will allow you to overclock to decent lvl. Don't waste money on expensive heatsink when this will work just as well. $1.99 is superdeal. You won't be disappointed.
 
Originally posted by: Naustica
Originally posted by: WallStreet
Has anyone used the GC68 in this thread.. Seems like it might be OK as these are cooler .13 micron CPUs.

Also, I am not sure if this heatsink will fit the K7VTA3 that was part of the Fry's combo.

GC68 will work fine. It's the same as Speeze heatsink Newegg sells. It's relatively quiet and will allow you to overclock to decent lvl. Don't waste money on expensive heatsink when this will work just as well. $1.99 is superdeal. You won't be disappointed.


might get this too, ill have to return the silentboost to frys, but i would hate to see that thing go 🙁 i love the silentness of it..

btw, im installing windows right now on my 0341 version..

did anyone notice in their bios, undle the first tab, that the base memory says 640k even before the mod... ???

 
Originally posted by: WallStreet
Originally posted by: hevnsnt
getting some strange results.. See PIC

Showing as a Thorton? 256k? Guess my mod didn't take.. lol

I got the exact same thing. Running fine at 166MHz FSB (2600+) but couldn't enable the full 512KB of cache.

So what was your manufacter date Wallstreet:? Mine is 0341, which doens't cache enable at all. I can't seem to do it.. 🙁 this sucks!!
'
how big of a difference is the extra 256k cache anyways?
 
sorry for the newbie-ish question ---

so there are two things we can do with this chip (assuming we get one that is unlocked) -
1. Increase the FSB bus to OC this guy from 2000+ to 2800+
2. Connect L2 bridges to enable second half the cache

Is this correct?
 
Originally posted by: LordSnailz
sorry for the newbie-ish question ---

so there are two things we can do with this chip (assuming we get one that is unlocked) -
1. Increase the FSB bus to OC this guy from 2000+ to 2800+
2. Connect L2 bridges to enable second half the cache

Is this correct?

You can do #1 whether it is locked or not. I have bought two of these and both work at 166MHz FSB with default voltage. A quick and easy way to run at XP 2600+ speeds. Running at 166MHz FSB boosts the core frequency from 1.67GHz to 2.08GHz.

If the chip multipliers are unlocked, you could also overclock by changing the multiplier from the default 12.5x.

 
Originally posted by: WallStreet
Originally posted by: LordSnailz
sorry for the newbie-ish question ---

so there are two things we can do with this chip (assuming we get one that is unlocked) -
1. Increase the FSB bus to OC this guy from 2000+ to 2800+
2. Connect L2 bridges to enable second half the cache

Is this correct?

You can do #1 whether it is locked or not. I have bought two of these and both work at 166MHz FSB with default voltage. A quick and easy way to run at XP 2600+ speeds. Running at 166MHz FSB boosts the core frequency from 1.67GHz to 2.08GHz.

If the chip multipliers are unlocked, you could also overclock by changing the multiplier from the default 12.5x.


Yes, it looks as though you can only do #2 (laughing) [the extra 256k cache enable] if you can change ur multiplier from the default of 12.5. If you can't, I DO not think it'll work, at least mine doesn't
 
Originally posted by: WallStreet
Originally posted by: LordSnailz
sorry for the newbie-ish question ---

so there are two things we can do with this chip (assuming we get one that is unlocked) -
1. Increase the FSB bus to OC this guy from 2000+ to 2800+
2. Connect L2 bridges to enable second half the cache

Is this correct?

You can do #1 whether it is locked or not. I have bought two of these and both work at 166MHz FSB with default voltage. A quick and easy way to run at XP 2600+ speeds. Running at 166MHz FSB boosts the core frequency from 1.67GHz to 2.08GHz.

If the chip multipliers are unlocked, you could also overclock by changing the multiplier from the default 12.5x.

But the ECS 7VTA3 v8 does not have anything that helps you change the multiplier right?
 
0339 here, not sure why the 256 wont go to 512.

I used a conductive pen, and did a damn fine job if I have to say so myself. I will try to take pics, but I am not sure how they will come out.
 
Originally posted by: kitkit201

So what was your manufacter date Wallstreet:? Mine is 0341, which doens't cache enable at all. I can't seem to do it.. 🙁 this sucks!!
'
how big of a difference is the extra 256k cache anyways?

Both of the ones I have are 0342.

With 512KB cache, AMD would rate the CPU a 2800+. With 256KB, AMD would rate it a 2600+. So, it's worth some effort to try to enable it, but the big jump in performance comes from 133MHz FSB -> 166MHz FSB, which causes the core to go from 1.67GHz to 2.08GHz.

 
Originally posted by: LordSnailz

But the ECS 7VTA3 v8 does not have anything that helps you change the multiplier right?

I think you are right - there weren't any jumpers on the board that did this, and the BIOS si pretty sparse.
 
Originally posted by: WallStreet
Originally posted by: kitkit201

So what was your manufacter date Wallstreet:? Mine is 0341, which doens't cache enable at all. I can't seem to do it.. 🙁 this sucks!!
'
how big of a difference is the extra 256k cache anyways?

Both of the ones I have are 0342.

With 512KB cache, AMD would rate the CPU a 2800+. With 256KB, AMD would rate it a 2600+. So, it's worth some effort to try to enable it, but the big jump in performance comes from 133MHz FSB -> 166MHz FSB, which causes the core to go from 1.67GHz to 2.08GHz.

i thought i did a pretty good hack too, but mine's still @ 256kb

but i still think going from 2000+ -> 2600+ guaranteed w/ no vcore increase (and im using a volcano 6cu) w/ 40c idle is pretty decent
 
Well guys hopefully I can help ya out. Attempted to mod 4 of these chips. Half successful.

Basically the two that failed were post week 39 chips. Some folks are saying that if the chip is multiplier locked, the L2 bridge/cache is locked as well. The two failed ones I got were week 43 and 44s. Note that this is only a rumor. Interestingly enough, in my case it seems to hold true.

The two successful ones I was able to mod were week 22s (old package) and 39s (new translucent package). On the older week 22, you'll have to fill in the pit with glue, crayon, or some non-conductive material and connect the dots. That'll get it running.

On the newer one, things become kinda tricky here. There have been mixed reports saying that you can just fill the pit in and it'll work fine. For me I had to clean out the pit (burn marks) then put my drop of conductive liquid to get it to work.

If that doesn't work, then you'll need to cut into the PCB translucent layer itself to the hidden 'dimple' or trace. Remember, the new golden dots on the translucent package don't connect to anything. It's probably a good idea to fill the pit with some non-conductive material before you start. Once you have that done, start cutting it using a new xacto blade or something with a super-fine-sharp tip (I can NOT stress this enough). Try to lightly scrape the surface until you get a good shiny copper area. The top 'protective layer' has the consistency of wax so don't apply too much pressure.

Using a high-powered microscope is also useful. REALLY helps you see where you're cutting. Used a 3x-10x stereoptic lab scope here and it sure made things a LOT easier when cutting the smaller traces on the new packaging.
 
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