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Opinions about this newegg case?

G

Garet Jax

Diamond Member
Hello all,

I am looking at this newegg case. It has free shipping today.

Any opinions on price and quality. My biggest concern is the quality of the PS. The last thing I want to do is to buy a case and then drop another ~$40 on a good PS.

Thanks in advance.
 
Originally posted by: akira34
EXTREMELY weak PSU... Only 13A on the 12V rail and it claims to be a 420W??
Click to expand...

What should I be getting on the 12V rail? How about the 5V rail? (for a quality PS)
 
For a 400W+ PSU, anything under 18A is piss-poor... Hell, under 24A for the 12V rail(s) is poor. I have a 480W with over 30A on the 12V rail(s) (has two of them)... I wouldn't use that PSU if you gave it to me (for free) and paid me to use it... Not sure about the 5V line, but I know the 12V is more critical...
 
They won't... That would involve opening up the box and installing a different PSU which would leave them with a PSU they couldn't sell. More likely, you'll have to pay for/purchase a good PSU and just install it yourself.
 
mmmmmm. Never hurts to ask.

I am looking at two PSs (they seem to be a wash):

one

two

I am leaning towards #2 since it seems to be the favourite among purchasers and has 5 stars.
 
Originally posted by: akira34
Even newegg says

"Making buying decisions based solely on these reviews is not recommended."
Click to expand...

I agree. I'm not. I have narrowed it down to these two based on other things and I am using the reviews plus what people here say to break the tie.
 
Link

Much better than anything you've posted so far. I have the 350W version powering a P4 3.2 right now without any problems. There is a version with a lighted fan if you really want that.
 
I'd stick with an Antec PSU, or Tt if you're in a real pinch... I've used Antec PSU's in the past without any issues... The few Tt models I've used seem to have been good, but they were also not cheap (at the time) and over 400W...

Personally, I won't go under 450W in a system anymore. Especially since I like to 'future proof' the rigs I build. I'd rather spend a bit more now for a quality PSU than have to shell out more money later when I have to replace it.
 
Originally posted by: MDE
Link

Much better than anything you've posted so far. I have the 350W version powering a P4 3.2 right now without any problems. There is a version with a lighted fan if you really want that.
Click to expand...

What makes this PSU much better than anything I posted above?
 
I'm using this PSU to run my righ (see the tower link in my sig) without ANY issue at all. The only problem I've encountered since building the system has to do with the WD drives deciding to not behave. I have a pair of Seagate's winging their way to me as replacements (will get credited what I paid for the WD drives, which is more than the Seagate's cost). I'm going 100% Seagate for drives now. I've NEVER had issue 1 with a Seagate drive, but I've had at least one WD drive failure (after under 6 months) and now the issue with the two in my rig. I've used many Seagate drives over the years and never had a single issue or failure. I can't say that for any other drive brand that I've tried or used. That includes WD, Maxtor, IBM and Hitachi. If your data's important to you, I highly recommend using Seagate drives...

BTW, the above linked PSU didn't cost me what it's showing up on newegg for... I'm sure you can find a vendor that will sell it for less if you do some hunting.
 
Buddy, trust us, get a quality power supply from a well known company. Try names like these:

Enermax
Antec
OCZ
PC Power and Cooling
Fortron
Tagan
Seasonic

You do NOT want to cheap out on the power supply - going with a low quality one could fry your whole system or leave you with a ton of stability issues. This is quoted from an article that was making the round a while ago, and it's 100% accurate:

POWER SHMOWER
or How PSU Power Ratings Mean Almost Nothing

A frustrating fact about PSUs is that there does not appear to be a stringent or regulated standard for reporting, advertising and labeling rated power. This is despite the existence of standards like ATX2.03 or Intel ATX12V.

There are well-established standards for measuring and rating HDD capacity, an engine's horsepower, or the heat generated by a furnace... but not one for how much power a PSU can deliver. There are so many cases of people with "450W" PSUs having power stability issues running a system that can't possoibly draw more than 150W. And "300W" units that keep running where the "450W" units are faltering.

It's not just about bad PSUs vs better ones. It's a dumb situation caused by uncontrolled marketing competition. Real regulation would bring PSUs out of snake oil territory and into a more sensible consumer-friendly terrain.

There are many ways PSU makers fudge to make their units seem more powerful.

1) Out and out lying. You add up the power on all the lines in many PSUs and they fall short of the rated power by 10, 20 30W or even more.

There are more sophisticated ways:

2) Limit the AC input voltage to a very narrow tolerance. The best PSUs are able to deliver their rated power given a decent range of AC input power, say 90~130V for a 120V unit. It's much more demanding to produce 300W w/90VAC input than with 120VAC, so what some PSU makers will detail in their tech specs (usually not in their consumer brochures) is to specify 115-120VAC for input power. A PSU specified this way will not deliver full power if the AC voltage sags, if there is a brown-out. Surely it causes instability more often than a PSU rated to deliver full power with 90-130VAC.

3) Specify a low operating temperature for rated output. This is quite common, but again not often seen in consumer brochures, but rather tech spec sheets provided usually only on demand by engineers or corp buyers. A typical PSU operating temp statement is somthing like this:

0ºC ~25ºC for full rating of load, decrease to zero Watts O/P at 70ºC

Examine what that says. Full power (let's say 400W) is available when the unit is at 0ºC ~25ºC. Hmmm. Think about this.

Have you ever felt air blown out of a PSU in a PC running absolutely full tilt (which it would have to do to get anywhere near 400W output) that felt cool to the fingers? 25ºC airflow would feel exactly that: Cool, given that normal body temperature is 37 °C.

So this PSU cannot deliver full rated power when its temperature goes over 25ºC. OK, what happens to the max power output capacity above that temp? It decreases gradually so that by the time the PSU temp reaches 70ºC, the PSU cannot deliver any power at all. So if you assume that this power drop as temp rises is linear, then max power capacity will drop by ~9W for every degree over 25ºC.

Now having examined as many PSUs as I have over the last 2~3 years, I have to say there's not a single PSU in ANY PC I have ever used or examined that would not measure at least 30~35ºC almost anywhere inside the PSU under almost any kind of load. And if/when it is pushed, 45ºC is nothing at all, especially for or near hot running components like voltage regulators.

So let's say 40ºC is a fairly typical temp inside a PSU. This 400W rated unit would actually be able to deliver a max of just 220W at that temp. Hmmm. Interesting, isn't it? At 50ºC, the available power would drop to just 130W. No wonder some PSUs have 3 fans each capable of 50 cfm!!

Here's a simple fact: Really high quality PSUs are actually rated for full power output at as high as 40ºC. The trick is get a hold of the spec sheets that tell such information so you can compare apples to apples. Or ask.




The bottom line? Shell out the $70 - $100 for a quality power supply. It's more than worth the money.




If you want an inexpensive and very good PSU, go with this one:

http://www.newegg.com/app/View...tion=17-104-123&depa=0

It's an A GPB Power supply made by Athenapower, and it's stacked to the brim. Over 60A on the 5v rail, which is excellent, and 28A on the 12v rail, which should be more than enough.

For under $60, you can't beat that PSU. You'll not the user review at that page by Anandtech's own FastEddie - he clued me into this PSU, and I'm tempted to replace my Enermax with it, even though my Enermax is plenty powerful for my system.
 
The Fortron unit that MDE linked to should be nice. I have the 300W version and it works great. Fortron makes power supplies for some other companies (rebranded) and their units are good quality. Antecs are good. TTGI (Superflower) units are good. Enermax units are good.

Don't obsess over wattage "rating." Some are inflated, like the one in the Raidmax case. As long as you get a quality unit (which is why you're doing this research, right?) and have enough power for your computer, then wattage matters not. What CPU? Overclocking? What video card? How many drives? I've found quality 300-400W output suitable for most applications, including overclocking, multi-HDD, fast video cards. For instance, I have an Antec TruePower 330W that can probably power most people's systems without fail. It used to run a loaded P4 system with multi-HDD. My 350W TTGI power supply (one with 14cm fan) puts out 22A for +12v and is running my P4 gaming system with an 800MHz overclock. These units are supposed to spin up the fan under higher load (higher resulting temps) but I've never heard the fan spin up.

Those power supply wattage ratings that you hear for high-end video cards (6800GT, for instance) is because Nvidia knows that "most" power supplies are higher wattage rated than the actual true amps it can put out.
 
That's probably why my Antec 480W NeoPower PSU will power my rig for as long as I have it, and possibly when I replace the mobo, processor and video card in 12-18 months.

Antec TruePower PSU's are high quality units. I had a 380W that was rock solid no matter what I put on it.

Quality units will cost you more than the cheap ones, but you're getting a much better unit for the money.
 
look up the athenatech a602 case. i absolutely love this case.

120mm fan slots in front and back of the case.
Removable Hard Drive Cage
Almost completely Toolless.

I believe newegg has it for around 50.
 
Originally posted by: Garet Jax
Originally posted by: MDE
Link

Much better than anything you've posted so far. I have the 350W version powering a P4 3.2 right now without any problems. There is a version with a lighted fan if you really want that.
Click to expand...

What makes this PSU much better than anything I posted above?
Click to expand...

Its not Riced to the max 😕
 
Originally posted by: XBoxLPU
Originally posted by: Garet Jax
Originally posted by: MDE
Link

Much better than anything you've posted so far. I have the 350W version powering a P4 3.2 right now without any problems. There is a version with a lighted fan if you really want that.
Click to expand...

What makes this PSU much better than anything I posted above?
Click to expand...

Its not Riced to the max 😕
Click to expand...

LOL!!!

Who really cares if a PSU has fans that lite up? Besides the teenagers and others that have not gotten over their 'bling' phase and moved on to their 'BANG' phase. Personally, I just want the PSU to work as needed for a long time than have it give a little glow. Fans with lites in them are 100% gimmic and have 0 functionality. If it's the choice between a PSU with the glowing fans and hacked up sides (with windows in it :disgust: ) and one without all that extra stuff (with everything else being equal) I'll take the one without the extra crap.
 
Originally posted by: akira34
Originally posted by: XBoxLPU
Originally posted by: Garet Jax
Originally posted by: MDE
Link

Much better than anything you've posted so far. I have the 350W version powering a P4 3.2 right now without any problems. There is a version with a lighted fan if you really want that.
Click to expand...

What makes this PSU much better than anything I posted above?
Click to expand...

Its not Riced to the max 😕
Click to expand...

LOL!!!

Who really cares if a PSU has fans that lite up? Besides the teenagers and others that have not gotten over their 'bling' phase and moved on to their 'BANG' phase. Personally, I just want the PSU to work as needed for a long time than have it give a little glow. Fans with lites in them are 100% gimmic and have 0 functionality. If it's the choice between a PSU with the glowing fans and hacked up sides (with windows in it :disgust: ) and one without all that extra stuff (with everything else being equal) I'll take the one without the extra crap.
Click to expand...

You're on a role today, Akira! 😀
 
Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Originally posted by: akira34
Originally posted by: XBoxLPU
Originally posted by: Garet Jax
Originally posted by: MDE
Link

Much better than anything you've posted so far. I have the 350W version powering a P4 3.2 right now without any problems. There is a version with a lighted fan if you really want that.
Click to expand...

What makes this PSU much better than anything I posted above?
Click to expand...

Its not Riced to the max 😕
Click to expand...

LOL!!!

Who really cares if a PSU has fans that lite up? Besides the teenagers and others that have not gotten over their 'bling' phase and moved on to their 'BANG' phase. Personally, I just want the PSU to work as needed for a long time than have it give a little glow. Fans with lites in them are 100% gimmic and have 0 functionality. If it's the choice between a PSU with the glowing fans and hacked up sides (with windows in it :disgust: ) and one without all that extra stuff (with everything else being equal) I'll take the one without the extra crap.
Click to expand...

You're on a role today, Akira! 😀
Click to expand...


Is that a good thing or no [in your opinion]?? Come on, you can say it, I won't bite [much]... lol
 
Originally posted by: HardWarrior
It's a good thing, buddy. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Well, with some people here, you never can tell... I don't pull my punches, which make some people cry faster than others... :laugh: :evil:
 
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