Only slightly used IBM Model M registering but not working

[NewbieOneKenobi]

The keyboard came with a 486 set some time around 1993 and that's the year the keyboard was made (Lexmark). The computer did not see hardcore service and the keyboard itself has probably not received the equivalent of one year of all day long professional typing. It probably was retired around 2000 but I'm not 100% sure. It spent the last couple of years in my ancient coder of a step-father's hardware repository, I mean, kitchen (right next to a very, very old Chicony with an AT plug, by the way but that one isn't clicky).

It was dirty and very dirty in some places, so I gave it some cleaning yesterday with cotton pads and vodka (didn't have higher spirits, it was quality, pure Polish stuff, no chemical waste). I did finally pour some between the keys (not into the holes, though). I even actually washed every keytop with whitening toothpaste. :biggrin: (Should give them some Calcium to help deal with cavities). The thing wasn't perfectly non-moist, but it was what I would call dry, after drying with a blow-drier.

Initially, I got Num Lock going on and off during load like normal but little response from keys--in fact, some, but wrong ones. Further attemps (after reset and installing a driver etc.) resulted in next to no response. I had the thing spend the night right next to a room fan, nothing. Well, there was beeping and I got the prompt about Shift keys from Windows and that was it.

So now I've removed the keys altogether and positioned the fan there but I'm kinda wondering if I haven't done something permanent perhaps. But Model M's supposedly survive dishwasher cycles and some people wash them regularly without exactly leaving them for a week to dry.

So, I thought I'd ask. Don't know, how long do they typically take to dry and work? Is there a big probability, from what I wrote, that I've killed it? Or can the modern PS/2 port be an issue (2008 Asus P5Q-E, someone on the net tried a P5Q pro and it worked), possibly able to be fixed by using an active USB converter? Anyone ever had a similar problem and been able to fix it?

For the record, I can't really fully disassemble it. Finding the kind of screwdriver here may be a fool's quest, not to mention spare parts (Europe). Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[dawza]

I can't really help with your questions concerning drying out and such, but I am using a 1993 Model M on my P5Q-E via native PS/2, and have never had any problems. I have read about people who have had issues with modern PS/2 ports and the IBM KBs, but I have never experienced it personally (and this is across 5-6 boards over the years).

 

[NewbieOneKenobi]

Thank you.

It seems the 'board might work, if not on PS/2 then at least via USB. I've just plugged it via a USB converter with success. Initially, a stream of minus signs came in but stopped eventually, then the two keys I had put back on both worked. I should probably put all the keys back on and see how it works via USB and whether it will work via PS/2, i.e. without the converter.

Incidentally, when I tried a rubber dome old IBM today, the SK-8820, the behaviour was vastly different on hot-plugged PS/2 vs coverted hot-plugged USB. In fact, PS/2 was kind of laggier, but in a way that made typing somewhat more pleasant than with USB, just taxing when backspacing or using cursors.

 

[Cerb]

For the future, go get yourself a deep well 7/32" socket. For any future cleanings of any such keyboards, take the keyboard apart. This way, you can keep the electronics safe, clean the case and key caps all the way around (I usually soak the caps for a few hours in a mix of dish soap and orange oil based cleaner, then rinse in a strainer, then wipe them off), and allow the parts to get dry, before reassembling the unit.

The killer is simply if something can short. I killed an '89 IBM that I had with plain old water. I only use mugs and steins near my PC, now . If it's off, then as long as it got rinsed well, and was able to dry, you'd be OK. If you got some conductive grime, or maybe that toothpaste, down into some electronics bits...who knows.

I have read about people who have had issues with modern PS/2 ports and the IBM KBs, but I have never experienced it personally (and this is across 5-6 boards over the years).

I was fixing up a shell for a friend a month or so ago, and had to use another keyboard. The Model M would work in the BIOS, but not the Windows installer (Intel G35 board w/ big vendor BIOS). First time it's happened to me.

 

[NewbieOneKenobi]

For the future, go get yourself a deep well 7/32" socket. For any future cleanings of any such keyboards, take the keyboard apart. This way, you can keep the electronics safe, clean the case and key caps all the way around (I usually soak the caps for a few hours in a mix of dish soap and orange oil based cleaner, then rinse in a strainer, then wipe them off), and allow the parts to get dry, before reassembling the unit.

Thanks. I'm forever going to remember to let it dry, I think. I'm a bit afraid of dealing with the rivets but there must be the first time at some point.

One tip I got from my step-father was to treat the caps with a toothbrush and paste, which I did after the dishwash bath.

I was fixing up a shell for a friend a month or so ago, and had to use another keyboard. The Model M would work in the BIOS, but not the Windows installer (Intel G35 board w/ big vendor BIOS). First time it's happened to me.

Hmm... Maybe something with power input. Tried using a USB converter there? Mine is hated by the system on all fronts when going PS/2. Yesterday I even got non-boots with PS/2 but no such problem with USB. I remember reading somewhere that M's take 100 times the power of a modern keyboard and this seems to agree with the specs of even the older rubber domes. I'm suspecting a similar effect still with M now (which I'm now typing on) because of somewhat noticeable input delay.

 

[Cerb]

Thanks. I'm forever going to remember to let it dry, I think. I'm a bit afraid of dealing with the rivets but there must be the first time at some point.

Nope. Just normal bolts. Once you remove them, it clamshells open, and while there's a little bit of extra work, it's pretty obvious how it all goes (the PCB, ribbon cable, mechanical keyboard, keys and caps, etc.). It's a bit of work, but it doesn't need it often.

Hmm... Maybe something with power input. Tried using a USB converter there? Mine is hated by the system on all fronts when going PS/2. Yesterday I even got non-boots with PS/2 but no such problem with USB. I remember reading somewhere that M's take 100 times the power of a modern keyboard and this seems to agree with the specs of even the older rubber domes. I'm suspecting a similar effect still with M now (which I'm now typing on) because of somewhat noticeable input delay.

No. I used a spare keyboard. Supposedly, Monoprice's USB adapter works w/ Model Ms, so I've considered getting one, but haven't gotten around to it.

 

[dawza]

Hmm... Maybe something with power input. Tried using a USB converter there? Mine is hated by the system on all fronts when going PS/2. Yesterday I even got non-boots with PS/2 but no such problem with USB. I remember reading somewhere that M's take 100 times the power of a modern keyboard and this seems to agree with the specs of even the older rubber domes. I'm suspecting a similar effect still with M now (which I'm now typing on) because of somewhat noticeable input delay.

I've read the same thing with respect to power draw. I suppose I have been lucky so far, but if and when the day comes that I can no longer use a native PS/2 connection, this adapter/converter is supposedly guaranteed to work with the M:

http://www.cyberguys.com/product-details/?productid=4850&core_cross=SEARCH#page=page-1

I am almost positive it is the same one sold by clickykeyboards.com, but without the ridiculous markup.

I have an M with an integrated trackball (the M5-1, I think), and the trackball requires its own PS/2 connection. I therefore have to use an adapter, since my MB only has a single PS/2 port. I purchased this adapter

http://www.cyberguys.com/product-details/?productid=10134&core_cross=SEARCH#page=page-1

because it was supposed to work (in most instances) in situations like mine, but found that while it was just fine for the trackball connection, it would lag horribly and miss keystrokes for the KB connection. So, I suppose the other (first link) PS/2-->USB adapter would be the most surefire means to make an M work over USB.