You can run any number of different home launchers if you don't like touchwiz without rooting. Launchpro is pretty popular. You can switch home launchers on the fly as often as you wish anytime you want.
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I second that nod to Launcher Pro. It's pretty nice. Especially when paired with Fancy Widget on the main screen, although that might not be available in the market anymore because HTC complained. It's basically a knockoff of the Sense clock/weather widget, complete with shortcuts to the clock and weather apps.
Which ad blocker are you using? I've been considering this route, but basically haven't done it out of laziness. Any rec on what works well?