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Olympus C720 night shots.

F

FrustratedUser

Lifer
I was playing around with the super long shutter times of the camera.
I used 8s exposure time. The pic is taken at the VLA array in New Mexico. Right in the middle of nowhere so it was very dark. I only had some moon light.

The problem with these picture(s) I took was that all pixels of the CCD is not equally sensitive so it look slike dead pixels on a LCD. So today I wasted a few hours getting rid of those pixels.

Original pic.
Restored pic.

There must be a quicker way to do this in Photoshop but I have no clue how to.
 
LOL, I thought the sky looks very pretty with all the colorful stars, that is until the page finishes loading, and noticed those "colorful stars" are everywhere.
 
nice. i despise that about some digital cameras. the long shutter times don't meat crap. I took my A40 and did a 15 sec exposure in my room with very little light and nothing came out
 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Light up a LED or something and do it again. 🙂

Have anyone else had the same 'problem' I have?
Click to expand...

not really. i did a test 15 second shutter across my room with the black glow of my monitor @ ISO50 and no artifacts you have.

it might be that ISO400 you used.
 
Damn.. You must have used ISO400...

Here is a night shot I took using my Canon A60.

And yes, those are stars.. not artifacts. 😛

I used Manual mode, 15second shutter, f/2.8, ISO 100.

Then again, it wasn't pitch black..
 
I don't think that is noise from high ISO.
High ISO noise should not have color like that. Just really grainy looking.

To make sure that it is not electrical interference, try this.
Choose the long shutter speed again and put the cap on the lens before firing the shutter.
See if the artifact still there. Alternatively, just cover the camera with something to cover the lens.
Mix it up with different shutter speed, see if it show up between 1 - 7 seconds.

 
It's not noise from the ISO, those are hot pixels caused by the ccd heating up from the shutter being open too long. The problem started with the C-700, carried over to the c-720, was supposedly fixed with the c-740 and up. Check over in the olympus forums at dpreview.com, there is a program specifically designed for removing that stuff
 
hey dude, i have the same camera and i get teh same noise, not as much tho, the more you do longer exposures the hotter teh CCD gets and the more noise you get

i have a few photoshop actions that will remove noise for you if you want them
one works really good but its only for photoshop 7, it doesnt work right with CS

here are a few ive done
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240057.JPG
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240057mod.jpg
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240062.JPG
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240062mod.jpg
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4290018.JPG
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4290018%20copy.jpg
 
Originally posted by: stonecold3169
It's not noise from the ISO, those are hot pixels caused by the ccd heating up from the shutter being open too long. The problem started with the C-700, carried over to the c-720, was supposedly fixed with the c-740 and up. Check over in the olympus forums at dpreview.com, there is a program specifically designed for removing that stuff
Click to expand...


That was news to me. I didn't know it was caused by the CCD overheating.
It is definately not noise from ISO 400 because the spots are in the exact same position on many pictures.
I have to find that program.

 
Originally posted by: Anubis
hey dude, i have the same camera and i get teh same noise, not as much tho, the more you do longer exposures the hotter teh CCD gets and the more noise you get

i have a few photoshop actions that will remove noise for you if you want them
one works really good but its only for photoshop 7, it doesnt work right with CS

here are a few ive done
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240057.JPG
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240057mod.jpg
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240062.JPG
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240062mod.jpg
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4290018.JPG
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4290018%20copy.jpg
Click to expand...

I am willing to try some photoshopping. I have PS 5 but my skillz are really bad.
 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: Anubis
hey dude, i have the same camera and i get teh same noise, not as much tho, the more you do longer exposures the hotter teh CCD gets and the more noise you get

i have a few photoshop actions that will remove noise for you if you want them
one works really good but its only for photoshop 7, it doesnt work right with CS

here are a few ive done
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240057.JPG
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240057mod.jpg
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240062.JPG
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4240062mod.jpg
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4290018.JPG
http://www.dickinson.edu/~skillina/P4290018%20copy.jpg
Click to expand...

I am willing to try some photoshopping. I have PS 5 but my skillz are really bad.
Click to expand...

with actions in photoshop all you do is hit "GO" and it does it for yue, that is teh beuaty of actions they are pretty much hands free
 
Originally posted by: stonecold3169
It's not noise from the ISO, those are hot pixels caused by the ccd heating up from the shutter being open too long. The problem started with the C-700, carried over to the c-720, was supposedly fixed with the c-740 and up. Check over in the olympus forums at dpreview.com, there is a program specifically designed for removing that stuff
Click to expand...

ding ding ding...we have the winner

I have c-4000 and never had any problems like that. I dont think i have any night shots on hand though
 
Originally posted by: stonecold3169
It's not noise from the ISO, those are hot pixels caused by the ccd heating up from the shutter being open too long. The problem started with the C-700, carried over to the c-720, was supposedly fixed with the c-740 and up. Check over in the olympus forums at dpreview.com, there is a program specifically designed for removing that stuff
Click to expand...

wow that sucks. they don't have a firmware fix or anything?
 
Originally posted by: ndee
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Herre are some results using PixelZAP.

Weak monn light only,
Corrected

These have a bit more light but still not much.

More light
Corrected


I actually paid $15 for PixelZAP :Q

:beer:😀
Click to expand...


wait. So you paid $15 for something that doesn't get the job done to 100%? The blue dots are still there.
Click to expand...

Yeah I suck.
The blue dots can be removed by using a dark frame.

 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: ndee
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Herre are some results using PixelZAP.

Weak monn light only,
Corrected

These have a bit more light but still not much.

More light
Corrected


I actually paid $15 for PixelZAP :Q

:beer:😀
Click to expand...


wait. So you paid $15 for something that doesn't get the job done to 100%? The blue dots are still there.
Click to expand...

Yeah I suck.
The blue dots can be removed by using a dark frame.
Click to expand...

ah ok, so in the end, you get the "perfect" picture? Then that's ok 🙂
 
Originally posted by: Sid59
Originally posted by: stonecold3169
It's not noise from the ISO, those are hot pixels caused by the ccd heating up from the shutter being open too long. The problem started with the C-700, carried over to the c-720, was supposedly fixed with the c-740 and up. Check over in the olympus forums at dpreview.com, there is a program specifically designed for removing that stuff
Click to expand...

wow that sucks. they don't have a firmware fix or anything?
Click to expand...

Well thesew problems apply to all CCD sensors. Guess why astronomers used cooled CCD sensors. 😉
 
Originally posted by: ndee
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: ndee
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Herre are some results using PixelZAP.

Weak monn light only,
Corrected

These have a bit more light but still not much.

More light
Corrected


I actually paid $15 for PixelZAP :Q

:beer:😀
Click to expand...


wait. So you paid $15 for something that doesn't get the job done to 100%? The blue dots are still there.
Click to expand...

Yeah I suck.
The blue dots can be removed by using a dark frame.
Click to expand...

ah ok, so in the end, you get the "perfect" picture? Then that's ok 🙂
Click to expand...

Testing as we speak. If it doesn't work then, well.....

 
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