KarmaPolice

Diamond Member
Jun 24, 2004
3,066
0
0
Ok so I am a little over weight. I would say I weigh about 170 and am 5'9. Not bad..but not great. Generally i am a little fat around the waist and such..would just like to be able to play a sport for longer peroids of time...feel better about myself..and look better.

Anyway..I hate running..its lame...and hurts your legs.
Swimming is a pain cause you have to pay everytime you go and my school as the worst hours.
I play DDR and that really does help...but also hurts the legs after a while.
SOOO I am left with the biking.

Problem number 2:

My brother stole my bike!

My dad has this old road bike that he use to ride when he was younger. I believe the last time he took it out was when I was in first grade so maybe that was 16 years ago. He was really hardcore and i believe spent a lot of time and money on it. Since then he has kept it in either storage or in a garage..always hanging.

I am wondering how much it would take to get a bike that has been sitting around for 16 years into working condition? I am a poor college student and dont want to spend too much money. I have also never been on a road bike before...i guess i would need to buy clip in shoes...

any help is appreatiated..i figured some ATOT member has to be a cyclist.
 

zanieladie

Diamond Member
Jan 19, 2003
3,280
1
0
I am not a cyclist and really know nothing about bikes...but couldn't you get a new one at Wal-Mart or something? It might be cheaper than trying to fix the old one.

Now...if you are talking about a real "bike" and not something off of the shelves, then disregard what I said. LOL. I know that there are bikes and then there are BIKES.

I have neither. :(
 

KarmaPolice

Diamond Member
Jun 24, 2004
3,066
0
0
Originally posted by: zanieladie
I am not a cyclist and really know nothing about bikes...but couldn't you get a new one at Wal-Mart or something? It might be cheaper than trying to fix the old one.

Now...if you are talking about a real "bike" and not something off of the shelves, then disregard what I said. LOL. I know that there are bikes and then there are BIKES.

I have neither. :(

I dont really want to spend too much money on it now cause i am going to japan in the fall...just want something cheap for the summer.
 

Goosemaster

Lifer
Apr 10, 2001
48,775
3
81
1. if running hurst your legs it means that you are not ft to run...err..that you are not fit enough to run regualrly and it will be MURDER on your shins.

2. dude..pay the damn fee for swimming..it isworth it..and do cardio....


<---uses an old vitus road bike...I spent some money on some tubes, tape , and minor stuff...less thant $100
 

notfred

Lifer
Feb 12, 2001
38,241
4
0
If it's been stored well, and not out in the rain, you might need some new tires and some chain lube. That'd be about it. You're *MUCH* better off on a quality 1990-ish road bike than a walmat peice of trash.

IF the bike was a decent bike when it was stored, and it's been stored well, it should still be in good shape.

Is your dad similar in height to you? If not the bike might not fit you properly.
 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
22,786
5,941
146
new tires, tubes. replace the pedals with regular pedals and baskets <for now, but keep the clip ons>. This will be cheaper than shelling out for nice shoes.
If it has been kept dry, it won't need much else. Somebody will stop by and tell you you must regrease everything, but if it is smooth and without rust, it will be OK.
 
Jan 18, 2001
14,465
1
0
Why not just beat the crap out of your brother and get your bike back?



seriously, the bike will need a tune up, new wheels and tubes. possibly a new chain.
 
Aug 16, 2001
22,505
4
81
Originally posted by: KarmaPolice
Ok so I am a little over weight. I would say I weigh about 170 and am 5'9. Not bad..but not great. Generally i am a little fat around the waist and such..would just like to be able to play a sport for longer peroids of time...feel better about myself..and look better.

Anyway..I hate running..its lame...and hurts your legs.
Swimming is a pain cause you have to pay everytime you go and my school as the worst hours.
I play DDR and that really does help...but also hurts the legs after a while.
SOOO I am left with the biking.

Problem number 2:

My brother stole my bike!



My dad has this old road bike that he use to ride when he was younger. I believe the last time he took it out was when I was in first grade so maybe that was 16 years ago. He was really hardcore and i believe spent a lot of time and money on it. Since then he has kept it in either storage or in a garage..always hanging.

I am wondering how much it would take to get a bike that has been sitting around for 16 years into working condition? I am a poor college student and dont want to spend too much money. I have also never been on a road bike before...i guess i would need to buy clip in shoes...

any help is appreatiated..i figured some ATOT member has to be a cyclist.

Get so,e new tires for it. I think the 16 year old tires are dry and will crack.
Check the drivetrain. Clean chain and relube it. Make sure everyting is smooth.
Check the alignment of the derailleurs, make sure it shifts good.
Check brakes and realign if needed. Check to see if brake pads are dried out.

All this will easily be <$100. You might get away with $40 for new tires.
What brand and model is it? What components?
 

Scarpozzi

Lifer
Jun 13, 2000
26,392
1,780
126
Take it to a bike shop and ask them what it would take to get it in working condition... They can inspect the cables and make sure they're sound. It may need new brakes, cables, general lubrication, new chain, new tires, new tubes, new chain rings, etc....just be aware that older bikes aren't built as well as newer ones....but manufacturing technology and lighter materials are the main differences.
 

KarmaPolice

Diamond Member
Jun 24, 2004
3,066
0
0
i'll see if i can figure out the make and model of the thing.

I mean yeah its old..but it cant be that bad of a bike can it. I mean a good bike back then cant be THAT bad of a bike now can it?
 

herbiehancock

Senior member
May 11, 2006
789
0
0
For a bike, no matter how nice, to be sitting unused for 16 years or longer, expect:

1. New cables and housing. No matter the cables were stainless, they will still corrode and rust inside the housing, and the interior sheath of the housing will quietly disintegrate. But, these are cheap things.....maybe $2 or so per cable (brake and shifter) adn $2-$3 a foot for housing. Make sure you get shifter housing for the shifters, brake housing for the brakes. Quite different construction in each.....brake is spiral wound flat ribbon steel and shifter housing is parallel-stranded wire construction.

2. New brake pads. Wouldn't think they'd be anything other than rubber or cork/rubber composition pads and these will definitely dry out over such a long time. Again, very cheap.

3. Have the chain checked for wear as well as the rear gears. The front chainwheels don't wear nearly as quickly and a quick look can establish if they're in good shape. New freewheel/cassette (unknown which your bike takes, but I'd almost bet it's a freewheel given its age) and new chain aren't the cheapest things out there, but it's probably a 7 spd., again considering its age, and won't be a drastic cost at all. Chain about $10 and freewheel maybe $15 or so. If cassette, maybe $20 at most. This excludes Campagnolo componentry.

4. Have wheels checked for true and have them trued if necessary. Also, check how freely they spin. Gravity will play hell with grease....the grease will settle down to the lowest point over that amount of time unused and could possibly expose the bearings to rust or whatnot. I'd also get the headset bearing checked for grease and smoothness, too. Road bike headset bearing tend to index after a while, meaning the front on a road bike doesn't get turned a lot but rather gets turned by leaning. So, the bearings move very little and can wear a spot on the races that the fork always wants to return to, or index. Sort of a "dimple" that forms on the race from the bearing being in one spot constantly. You can feel it pretty easily by gently turning the fork side to side and feeling for a "flat" spot in the straight ahead position of the fork.

5. Definitely tires and tubes. Dry rot and all.

6. Pull the saddle and seatpost out of the frame and look down the seat tube with a flashlight, if the frame's steel. Have seen tons of rust develop down the seat tube on top of the bottom bracket shell.....hate to spend a bundle of $$$ on a frame that is quietly rusting out from the inside. (The rust is from sweat, condensation, and water getting past the seat post and trickling down to settle on the BB shell to do its damage.) Ignore for aluminum....while will corrode to a certain extent, rust isn't a problem.

7. Lube al the pivot points.....they'll most likely need them. (Brake pivots, brake handle pivot points, shifter points.....which are probably downtube shifters.)
 

DaShen

Lifer
Dec 1, 2000
10,710
1
0
If you are unwilling to spend a few bucks to go swimming and are unwilling to spend money on your old bike, then there really isn't much to suggest.
 

KarmaPolice

Diamond Member
Jun 24, 2004
3,066
0
0
Originally posted by: DaShen
If you are unwilling to spend a few bucks to go swimming and are unwilling to spend money on your old bike, then there really isn't much to suggest.

not really the money thing about swimming. Its the hours..they are like 8-10 and 3-4. I work those hours...

its a school pool so its used for events the rest of the time.
 

DaShen

Lifer
Dec 1, 2000
10,710
1
0
Originally posted by: KarmaPolice
Originally posted by: DaShen
If you are unwilling to spend a few bucks to go swimming and are unwilling to spend money on your old bike, then there really isn't much to suggest.

not really the money thing about swimming. Its the hours..they are like 8-10 and 3-4. I work those hours...

its a school pool so its used for events the rest of the time.

Best bet if money isn't the issue, is go to a gym. You can find a summer pass for cheap at most gyms if it really isn't about the money. No excuses.

Otherwise spend the money and fix up the bike.
 

Dirigible

Diamond Member
Apr 26, 2006
5,961
32
91
A really nice road bike that's 16 or 20 years old is still a really nice road bike.

Everyone's covered what you really should do to get it shipshape. For the *minimum* since it looks like you're trying to save cash, replace the tires and tubes, lube the chain, and check the brake pads to make sure they're not all dried out. That covers the safety aspects.

If it has friction shifters, which is where the levers don't click when you shift, it should shift fine, or at least good enough. If it has indexed shifting, which is where the levers click when you move 'em, the shifting may need some more adjustment.

And no, assuming the bike has pedals with toe clips, you don't need to buy clipless (clipless = shoes snap in like ski boots into bindings) shoes. If it has toe clip pedals, just wear your normal shoes. If it has clipless pedals, I dunno if it would be cheaper to replace the pedals or get some shoes.

Get out there and have fun. Ride lots!

 

KarmaPolice

Diamond Member
Jun 24, 2004
3,066
0
0
Yeah I am excited to start.

I always try and get into shape..but I am always too busy. When i start it feels great..after each run i would feel really good about myself...but then something happens in my life and I need to cut something out..and thats always the first to go. I think if I bike it would be a lot more fun the running..and thats why i wanted to give it a try.

I am a little confused on the pedal thing..apparently the terms they use are a little strange.
 

DaShen

Lifer
Dec 1, 2000
10,710
1
0
Originally posted by: KarmaPolice
Yeah I am excited to start.

I always try and get into shape..but I am always too busy. When i start it feels great..after each run i would feel really good about myself...but then something happens in my life and I need to cut something out..and thats always the first to go. I think if I bike it would be a lot more fun the running..and thats why i wanted to give it a try.

I am a little confused on the pedal thing..apparently the terms they use are a little strange.

There are many type of pedals. Some require cycling shoes.

Non Cleated pedals: Flatbed pedals (normal), Caged (their is a mesh net around your foot)

Cleated: Shimano SPD (most common for road bike nowadays), SPD-SL, SPD-R, Speedplay, Egg Beater.

Speedplays, by far, are the best IMO, but hella expensive. Egg Beaters are better for Mountain bikes. The higher grade SPDs, SPD-R and SPD-SL and pretty good as well, but for someone just starting out, I would suggest Cages (so you don't have to buy shoes), or SPDs with Regular pedal inserts (so that you have the option of using regular shoes or cycling shoes).

If you use regular shoes without a cage though, you will not be using your hamstring as much and therefore won't be as efficient in your cycling or you workout, so basically cleats offer a better workout.

**EDIT**
BTW, unless you are working 3 jobs and pulling night shifts and not having much time to sleep, there is always time to workout. How much time do you spend watching TV or playing computer games. Record how much time for a week, and you will be very surprised.
 

Brutuskend

Lifer
Apr 2, 2001
26,558
4
0
Often times your local parks and recreation department will have bike repair class's during the summer time. If you are broke, take it there and not only will it cost less, but you get to work on it yourself and learn HOW to do it! Which in MY book it ALWAYS a plus!

Also you may check around on campus, they may have a out door program that offers the same sort of thing.
 

DaShen

Lifer
Dec 1, 2000
10,710
1
0
Originally posted by: Brutuskend
Often times your local parks and recreation department will have bike repair class's during the summer time. If you are broke, take it there and not only will it cost less, but you get to work on it yourself and learn HOW to do it! Which in MY book it ALWAYS a plus!

Also you may check around on campus, they may have a out door program that offers the same sort of thing.

YUP. For the most part, I do all my repairs myself. I save so much moeny, too. You would be surprised how cheap a little fix costs to do and how much a bike shop will charge sometimes.

I am surprised Brutuskend suggested learning yourself though since he is a bike shop guy. ;)
 

Brutuskend

Lifer
Apr 2, 2001
26,558
4
0
Originally posted by: DaShen
Originally posted by: Brutuskend
Often times your local parks and recreation department will have bike repair class's during the summer time. If you are broke, take it there and not only will it cost less, but you get to work on it yourself and learn HOW to do it! Which in MY book it ALWAYS a plus!

Also you may check around on campus, they may have a out door program that offers the same sort of thing.

YUP. For the most part, I do all my repairs myself. I save so much moeny, too. You would be surprised how cheap a little fix costs to do and how much a bike shop will charge sometimes.

I am surprised Brutuskend suggested learning yourself though since he is a bike shop guy. ;)


I'm also a poor cheap bastard that does EVERYTHING himself. And I mean EVERYTHING! :(
 

KarmaPolice

Diamond Member
Jun 24, 2004
3,066
0
0
Originally posted by: DaShen
Originally posted by: KarmaPolice
Yeah I am excited to start.

I always try and get into shape..but I am always too busy. When i start it feels great..after each run i would feel really good about myself...but then something happens in my life and I need to cut something out..and thats always the first to go. I think if I bike it would be a lot more fun the running..and thats why i wanted to give it a try.

I am a little confused on the pedal thing..apparently the terms they use are a little strange.

There are many type of pedals. Some require cycling shoes.

Non Cleated pedals: Flatbed pedals (normal), Caged (their is a mesh net around your foot)

Cleated: Shimano SPD (most common for road bike nowadays), SPD-SL, SPD-R, Speedplay, Egg Beater.

Speedplays, by far, are the best IMO, but hella expensive. Egg Beaters are better for Mountain bikes. The higher grade SPDs, SPD-R and SPD-SL and pretty good as well, but for someone just starting out, I would suggest Cages (so you don't have to buy shoes), or SPDs with Regular pedal inserts (so that you have the option of using regular shoes or cycling shoes).

If you use regular shoes without a cage though, you will not be using your hamstring as much and therefore won't be as efficient in your cycling or you workout, so basically cleats offer a better workout.

**EDIT**
BTW, unless you are working 3 jobs and pulling night shifts and not having much time to sleep, there is always time to workout. How much time do you spend watching TV or playing computer games. Record how much time for a week, and you will be very surprised.


See all those tersm kinda went over my head there. So basically there are three types.

1. The regular pedal you had when you were a kid...flat and thats it.
2. A regular pedal with a slot to fit your front of your foot into..which can be used with regular shoes.
3. pedals that NEED to be clipped in.

right?



Also...Its not that i am busy all the time. For example. I would start working out at the gym...really feeling good...for about 2 weeks or maybe a month. But then lets say one week I have all of my tests, class, and work. I really dont have the time or the energy to workout. After that week is over I kinda forget about working out and am out of the routine.