Ok it's on...

[EvilSponge]

Hello all,

I'm at the clean all your water cooling parts and make, leak test your loop stage. I have everything I need but have one question best to get my loop lengths by installing all the water water cooling components on my mother board and set up lengths that way or just measure and cut?

Thanks to those that reply,

-sponge

 

[Gillbot]

I installed everything, cut to fit, then dismounted to leak test. The 2nd time, I installed in case, cut to length and leak tested with power off. The 3rd time, I leak tested while booting, LOL!

 

[EvilSponge]

Ah as you became more comfortable ok well I think I'll install all my blocks sans thermal paste for the mock up then leak test thanks!
BTW no leaks eh?

-sponge

 

[aigomorla]

omg its still not up?

ROFL....

okey your paitence is on the same level as a granny waiting at a red light!



Evil, micro loop, if you have extra tubing, otherwise leak test without your computer being live,

Meaning install, and run the pump only, but dont run the computer.

However by micro looping it, you could run your computer for the 12 hours test b4 dropping it in.

its up to you.

 

[EvilSponge]

Hey Aig,

I'm offended I moved to a new house so had to rebuild my work shop . Ok tubing is cheap micro loop for 24 hours 4TW! also I don't have to take down my main rig as soon best way to fill the rad for cleaning don't have a funnel handy. I'll take pics of my micro loop and submit for review thanks!

-sponge
BTW need to take my PC apart anyway need to install cool locking wheels!

 

[aigomorla]

ROFL!

In all, your gonna love it.


evil, you should just sleeve your cables like this.

If your fan controller is strong enough you can plug all 3 slow spinning fans on 1 output.

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0936.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0937.jpg


Yate low speeds do not draw a lot of amps.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: Gillbot
I installed everything, cut to fit, then dismounted to leak test. The 2nd time, I installed in case, cut to length and leak tested with power off. The 3rd time, I leak tested while booting, LOL!

+1

Hey Gill, I thought I was the only cocky loop installer around these parts. I take each barb as a project all its own and never have leaks anymore.

Evil, my suggestions for cutting tube are simple. Cut a couple of inches longer than you think you need (and trim back if needed), and buy a good cutter. Ridgid makes a fine pair, the PC-1250. It produces clean, even edges with a tiny amount of effort and no risk to your pinkies.

 

[EvilSponge]

Hey Aig,

Way too clean for my taste I have it as a sleeved four pin right now and was going to use an adapter you way is very clean. Good cutter eh are you saying my wife's kitchen scissors are not good enough! There Henkels damn it
Ok will take it under advisement thanks! Let's loop....

-sponge

 

[HardWarrior]

Either way, dude! Just remember the pics...

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior

Originally posted by: Gillbot
I installed everything, cut to fit, then dismounted to leak test. The 2nd time, I installed in case, cut to length and leak tested with power off. The 3rd time, I leak tested while booting, LOL!

+1

Hey Gill, I thought I was the only cocky loop installer around these parts. I take each barb as a project all its own and never have leaks anymore.

Evil, my suggestions for cutting tube are simple. Cut a couple of inches longer than you think you need (and trim back if needed), and buy a good cutter. Ridgid makes a fine pair, the PC-1250. It produces clean, even edges with a tiny amount of effort and no risk to your pinkies.

Nah, I bleed and feed and as soon as I got the bulk of the air out and the levels up high enough, POWER ON! It'll leak test as i'm running it and the air will work out eventually.

 

[EvilSponge]

Pics of my mini loop will be up some time tonight, so far no leaks

-sponge

 

[EvilSponge]

Ok pics are up on my water page no leaks so far...

-sponge

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: Gillbot
Nah, I bleed and feed and as soon as I got the bulk of the air out and the levels up high enough, POWER ON! It'll leak test as i'm running it and the air will work out eventually.

That works too, Gill.

Evil, very nice blocks! :thumbsup:

 

[EvilSponge]

Well I have to thank Aig for the block suggestions. He knows I'm pushing my Q6600 pretty hard it's clocked to 3.6Ghz on air what I like is now the mini loop has been running for a while and it is almost silent much better than than the wind tunnel I have with my push pull fan configuration on my lapped TRUE 120. Even if the temps stayed the same the silence is well worth it. He was totally right once the air was out of the system the things is very quiet.


-Sponge

 

[Gillbot]

nice setup!

 

[EvilSponge]

Thanks Gillbot!

-sponge

 

[aigomorla]

your not putting enough wattage on your quadcore if your evening out with the true.

Whats your overclocking settings?

Also i forgot to tell you.

You want the inlet on the right side and the outlet on the left side.

Water should flow like this <--- if your block is mounted inside your case.



This was proven reciently, sorry i should of kept you up to date, it was still one of my theories until a second confirmation.

 

[EvilSponge]

Hey Aig sorry I'm not following you your saying from the pump at the bottom barb that tube goes to the right side barb of the radiator? Then left side barb of the radiator to the inlet side of the cpu block? Also I have my cool locking wheels installed! Very pleased will post pics soon. I decided to take your advise and mod my rad wire bundle to have the single sleeved 3 pin fan connector

-sponge

 

[EvilSponge]

Ok final leak test run started with mother board mounted in case and everything tubed up and zip tied. Will post pics later

-sponge

 

[aigomorla]

rofl

okey lemme explain.

the cpu blocks needs the barbs to be horizontal not verticle.

Meaning the barbs should be left and right of each other mounted and up and down.

Now you want the right side to be inlet, and left side outlet. The reason is the right side is right under your cores so you want the most pressure there.

 

[EvilSponge]

Thanks for the late reply Aig I had the cpu block vertical hopefully I will not need to retube well see.

-sponge

Ok your previous post makes total sense now the arrow LOL ok got it in the right direction now thanks Aig at least I had it leak testing in the case and not totally put together that would have been a PITA. I don't beleive there is a defined inlet outlet for my Swiftech MCW30
it is horizontal though

 

[EvilSponge]

On a positive note my TIM was spread very nicely...

-sponge

 

[aigomorla]

on the swifty nb, there is no direction.
on the EK there is.




yeah as i said it was still in theory until someone cross proved it.

 

[EvilSponge]

Ok cool Aig leak test has passed with flying colors ah the beautiful silence the pump is a whisper at best. Starting final assembly and wire managment

-sponge

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: GillbotNah, I bleed and feed and as soon as I got the bulk of the air out and the levels up high enough, POWER ON! It'll leak test as i'm running it and the air will work out eventually.

Get it running already!