Oil light coming on at Idle

[nboy22]

I have a 2002 Dodge Stratus that seems to have a rod bearing or main bearing issue. I have done research and found out it could also be a sludge issue. What happens is the low oil pressure light comes on at idle, but doesn't happen when the car is cold, but only when I've driven the car to the point where the car is warm.

Everything seems to point to the rod and main bearings. All the research I have done through google seems to all be pointing there. I believe the problem is too "routine" to just be a sensor malfunctioning.

How hard is it to drop the oil pan in this car and do all the rod and main bearing replacements? To drop the oil pan would I need some sort of special lift? Is the oil pan like 100+ pounds?

I don't know a lot about cars, but they are not really intimidating for me to take apart, in fact i would like to take it apart and fix it myself because I am inquisitive like that.

Do you think this procedure could be done by an amateur like myself? or is it recommended to shell out the extra 500+ dollars I willl probably get raped for at the dealership or other mechanic shop?

 

[LTC8K6]

The oil pan is just a sheet metal pan. Probably 5 pounds.

Have you tried a heavier weight oil in it?

 

[nboy22]

Originally posted by: LTC8K6
The oil pan is just a sheet metal pan. Probably 5 pounds.

Have you tried a heavier weight oil in it?

I haven't tried a heavier weight, but the problem is I've been using 5w-30 for the past years I've had the car and I moved to arizona a little over 2 years ago, regular changes with 5w-30 at 3000 mile intervals. The car has been working fine for the past 2 years in arizona with 5w-30 and just recently it has a problem with the oil light coming on at stop lights, but when you rev the engine even just a little it goes away. I have heard of people switching to 10w-30 and having success with the oil light problem going away temporarily for a few months, but then coming back. It seems like changing the oil is just a temp fix or something, I am kinda paranoid about just postponing the issue and beating around the bush. I am going to try that before I try something drastic like replacing the rod/main bearings.

 

[chucky2]

Well, to get the oil pan off, you'd first drain it of oil, and then take it off - that's obvious. Before you go attempting this though, you need to make sure you have access to get all the bolts holding in on, off, and then have clearance once those bolts are off to get it down.

Unless you have access to a lift or a pit, that leaves you with ramps. The ramps I've been able to find around here basically suck in the height dept., so, you might want to consider first doing some eShopping and finding a set of ramps that get you some height.

Once that's accomplished, and the pan is off, you'll probably want to clean the inside of the pan out and also check to make sure the oil pickup isn't blocked. Depending on what type of seal your oil pan uses will determine how you put it back on. You'll also be able to desludge the bottom of the engine if you can visibly see sludge on it.

Once you've got the pan back on, do a double Auto-RX cycle on it, following the sludge directions; make sure to use dino oil, no high mileage, no synthetics.

If that don't cure your problem, you've got mechanical and/or sensor issues.

Chuck

 

[Cdubneeddeal]

Honestly, if you don't know much about vehicles, I would suggest not to touch the rod and main bearings. It's really not that difficult if you have the right equipment. If you do attempt it, don't pull on the piston too hard. If it comes out of the cylinder be prepared to remove the head.

 

[bruceb]

First would be how many miles on the engine ? Then I would suggest trying a heavier oil like a 10W40 since being in Arizona with the weather always being warm / hot, it will still flow good on start up and have better pressure when warmed up. You could also have an Oil Pump that is starting to show signs of age and not putting out proper pressure. Rod & main bearings is a big job, as you usually resurface the crank shaft journals and then install new bearings to match the new journal diameters. Also, check for leakage around the valve guides as that can also can low oil pressure. Any way you do it, if the engine needs to come apart to fix it, you are looking at $1000 or so minimum for labor and even the lowest cost parts, like gaskets and such.

 

[LTC8K6]

10W30 would be basically the same as 5W30 when the engine is warm.

You would need to try 20W50.

I would also try some sludge solutions as suggested earlier.

 

[radioouman]

I would replace your oil pressure sending unit first. These do fail on the 2.7 liter V6.

Also, your oil pain is a cast aluminum pan, not stamped steel.

When you take your oil fill cap off, do you see anything under there other than clean oil? If it looks sludgy at all, you have a problem. You won't be able to see much in there, so it might be worth pulling the front valve cover off to see how nasty the top end of the engine is. If there is a lot of oil sludge, just get rid of that car.

These cars have a known problem where the seal leaks that allows coolant from the water pump to get into the engine oil. If you have milky looking oil, you probably have coolant in the oil and it is most likely NOT a head gasket. The water pump on this engine is driven from the timing chain, so you have to pull the timing chain cover off the side of the engine in order to replace the water pump. This is a pretty big job on this car. Can you even see the serpentine belt on the passenger side of the engine? That's the side where you work on the water pump and timing chain, but as you can see there is not much space.

If you have the 2.4 liter 4-cylinder, ignore everything that I just said.

 

[LTC8K6]

Also, your oil pain is a cast aluminum pan, not stamped steel.

It's a good thing no one said it was steel.

It's probably not even 5 pounds then.

 

[nboy22]

Originally posted by: radioouman
I would replace your oil pressure sending unit first. These do fail on the 2.7 liter V6.

Also, your oil pain is a cast aluminum pan, not stamped steel.

When you take your oil fill cap off, do you see anything under there other than clean oil? If it looks sludgy at all, you have a problem. You won't be able to see much in there, so it might be worth pulling the front valve cover off to see how nasty the top end of the engine is. If there is a lot of oil sludge, just get rid of that car.

These cars have a known problem where the seal leaks that allows coolant from the water pump to get into the engine oil. If you have milky looking oil, you probably have coolant in the oil and it is most likely NOT a head gasket. The water pump on this engine is driven from the timing chain, so you have to pull the timing chain cover off the side of the engine in order to replace the water pump. This is a pretty big job on this car. Can you even see the serpentine belt on the passenger side of the engine? That's the side where you work on the water pump and timing chain, but as you can see there is not much space.

If you have the 2.4 liter 4-cylinder, ignore everything that I just said.

Thanks for all the information, and everyone else too. I have a 2.7 liter V6 with 68,000 miles. I just find it weird how it could be a sensor because it's not an "all the time" thing. and the engine would always be hot, so shouldn't the light be on all the time then? Rather than just at the stops? That's why I think it's something different than the oil pressure sending unit.

There is no sludge, just changed the oil probably 600 miles ago or less and the oil is still looking good, not milky in color, clear but just a little darkened. No noticeable sludge on the cap and my dad has been telling me when he did do the past oil changes on the car that it was always clean. I knew sludge has been an issue in these engines since we got the car.

I have just heard horror stories of this problem.. some guy took his car to the dealership like 5 times because of different misdiagnosis. for instance he went thru a few sensor replacements, and oil pump replacement and the problem was still there. That's another reason I think it's the rod and main bearings, because there was not instantly a lot of solutions to these problems on all the car forums on the internet. I finally ran into one luckily and haven't heard anyone actually trying that yet and having it solve the problem with this specific engine.

I'm starting to lean more towards this is not a sludge issue, but rather a defect in the parts inside the engine because everything I've seen indicates my oil is clean. The real test would be to look in the oil pan, or inside a different component like some tubing that is constantly used to transport oil.

 

[boomerang]

I just typed '2002 stratus low oil pressure' in Google and based on the results I get the best advice I can give is to sell the car. You're not going to correct a design problem by throwing parts at this car.

There is a class action lawsuit on this problem. Your engine is still running, so I doubt that you can participate in the suit.

You've got to know when to hold 'em and when to fold 'em. Sell this car.

 

[nboy22]

Originally posted by: boomerang
I just typed '2002 stratus low oil pressure' in Google and based on the results I get the best advice I can give is to sell the car. You're not going to correct a design problem by throwing parts at this car.

There is a class action lawsuit on this problem. Your engine is still running, so I doubt that you can participate in the suit.

You've got to know when to hold 'em and when to fold 'em. Sell this car.

I know, eventually it's going to come down to selling this car and then buying honda/toyota.

I just want to rid it of this problem because it will probably sell for more and plus I'm in college and I have school loans, but don't want to take more out just to buy a car.

Don't even get me started on the blower resister, thermostat, transmission control module, or the whole A/C system blowing out.

This car has been a piece of junk for the past year, it was fine the other 3 or so years I had it.

 

[BUTCH1]

Buy a Haynes or Chiltons manual before you attempt this, you might need to drop the exhaust to get the pan out. Reading the manual will let you decide if you have the tools or inclination to do this job. Might be time to throw a quart of gear oil in the crack case and sell it..

 

[nboy22]

Originally posted by: BUTCH1
Buy a Haynes or Chiltons manual before you attempt this, you might need to drop the exhaust to get the pan out. Reading the manual will let you decide if you have the tools or inclination to do this job. Might be time to throw a quart of gear oil in the crack case and sell it..

Yes.. I would not do it without a manual, no way. I was thinking about getting a Haynes one, my dad brought one down but I guess I could go drop 14-20 bucks on one at autozone, however much those manuals cost.

I am going to try to sell it soon, but I might have to make it last for another year if possible due to school.

 

[BUTCH1]

Are you hearing any "knocking" sound at when the engine is running?, if not then maybe like others have suggested run a heavier viscosity oil in it and you may be able to get that year out of it without the hassle of dropping the pan..

 

[MovingTarget]

Try the heavier oil and drive it until it dies. If you have never taken and engine apart like that, then chances are you may be risking more damage than you already have. This doesn't sound like the kind of thing that should be attempted by a shadetree mechanic.

 

[nboy22]

Originally posted by: BUTCH1
Are you hearing any "knocking" sound at when the engine is running?, if not then maybe like others have suggested run a heavier viscosity oil in it and you may be able to get that year out of it without the hassle of dropping the pan..

There's not any knocking really. I know this happens to my grandma's Lincoln town car when there is bad gas in the engine. I do think I hear noises that don't sound normal but they are no loud and the oil in the engine is looking good. I will start with new oil and see where that takes me. I really hope I can just get it to go away when I trade the car in later and buy a new one, that way I will get more money for it and the dealership will have to deal with the problem when/if it comes back.

 

[CrackRabbit]

I hate to tell you this nboy, but it's not going to get any better.
You can baby it along with some thicker oil for a short time but eventually the engine is toast.
The 2.7 ltr used in the Stratus and Sebring are just utter pile of crap.
It would be a good idea to get rid of it now while it still has some value.

 

[nboy22]

Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
I hate to tell you this nboy, but it's not going to get any better.
You can baby it along with some thicker oil for a short time but eventually the engine is toast.
The 2.7 ltr used in the Stratus and Sebring are just utter pile of crap.
It would be a good idea to get rid of it now while it still has some value.

Yes, I know it's not going to get any better. And I know putting in thicker oil is just babying the problem - I am pretty damn sure there is some internal damage that will take a lot of money and/or time to fix.

I'm just trying to decide what to do. Don't really have any money ATM since I'm in college and I had to start going off of loans this year.. Only 1 year left and I will have my bachelors but I just took out a 15,000 dollar student loan along with my federal stafford which comes in at about 4,600 a semester. (the $15,000 student loan is for the whole year).

I am looking at used hondas and toyotas right now and getting a feel for what I am going to be paying, but I will probably end up buying from a dealership rather than something online. Something from a dealership with a warranty perhaps.. At least a 3 year warranty if possible.

 

[BUTCH1]

Originally posted by: nboy22

Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
I hate to tell you this nboy, but it's not going to get any better.
You can baby it along with some thicker oil for a short time but eventually the engine is toast.
The 2.7 ltr used in the Stratus and Sebring are just utter pile of crap.
It would be a good idea to get rid of it now while it still has some value.

Yes, I know it's not going to get any better. And I know putting in thicker oil is just babying the problem - I am pretty damn sure there is some internal damage that will take a lot of money and/or time to fix.

I'm just trying to decide what to do. Don't really have any money ATM since I'm in college and I had to start going off of loans this year.. Only 1 year left and I will have my bachelors but I just took out a 15,000 dollar student loan along with my federal stafford which comes in at about 4,600 a semester. (the $15,000 student loan is for the whole year).

I am looking at used hondas and toyotas right now and getting a feel for what I am going to be paying, but I will probably end up buying from a dealership rather than something online. Something from a dealership with a warranty perhaps.. At least a 3 year warranty if possible.

You might get some kind of powertrain warranty from a dealership but not the bumper to bumper coverage you would get with a new car. The knocking you would hear would be steady knock or slap sound every time the crankshaft completes a cycle. Bearings are usually not too expensive and can be changed on most cars with the pan off but if you have crank issues the motor would have to come out, not worth it IMO. You would need to get the car on jackstands and need a torque wrench to do this job..

 

[EvilHorace]

Don't try removing the pan, bearing caps yourself. It's not a job for someone w/o experience and you can definitely make it worse. How about a used engine, assuming a good one can be found, replaced cheaply?

 

[BUTCH1]

Originally posted by: EvilHorace
Don't try removing the pan, bearing caps yourself. It's not a job for someone w/o experience and you can definitely make it worse. How about a used engine, assuming a good one can be found, replaced cheaply?

It would still be cheaper to pay to have the bearings changed than install an entire motor. This would give him the time he needs to save $$ for a newer car..