Off to India for a month in a little over 2 days

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Apr 17, 2005
13,465
3
81
Originally posted by: Pabster
Originally posted by: theprodigalrebel
If I was into drugs and exotic hookers, that place would be a 365-day-long Black Friday.

:shocked:

What was the name of that place again? :p :laugh:

goa...its an exotic indian vacation spot. its still heavily influenced by portuguese and many people there speak it...interesting place to say the least.
 

Descartes

Lifer
Oct 10, 1999
13,968
2
0
Originally posted by: theprodigalrebel
Hyderabad is starting to get ridiculously hot. Enjoy. :evil:

Yeah, not looking forward to the heat. I can't handle 90+ degrees very well. I'm hoping the cooler temps up north will balance it out a bit.

I went to Goa this past December and it was pretty good. If I was into drugs and exotic hookers, that place would be a 365-day-long Black Friday.

Hah, yeah, I've heard that about Goa. Doesn't look like we'll be heading down that way this time :)
 

Descartes

Lifer
Oct 10, 1999
13,968
2
0
Originally posted by: dugweb
Last week i did a little over 16 hours of flight time, one 13 hour flight. I've done the Europe flights too so that's all i had for reference. I want to sound encouraging, but that flight really stunk. It's SO long. Just make sure to get up and walk around in between every movie at least.

If there is any good that will come of a hugely long flight, it makes others feel so short by comparison, which is kind of nice.

Damn, you could have lied to me :)

My doctor gave me some Ambien for the flight. I've never taken it before, but I'm kinda hoping I'll just be in a fog the whole time. I was fully alert on my Euro flights, and they just about killed me. I don't do well with anything for any extended period of time.

 

Aharami

Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
21,205
165
106
take a portable DVD player with you. should keep you entertained on those long flights

edit: what airline are you flying with?
 

rh71

No Lifer
Aug 28, 2001
52,844
1,049
126
18+ hour flights suck big. Last time I had to endure an agonizing stomach issue along with sitting next to some old guy who drank so much beer his skin permeated with the stench. It really was that bad. I made the mistake of looking at my watch at one point and had 6 whole hours left. Being cramped and feeling sick stuck in 1 place - I don't think I'd wish that on anyone. Flying is the worst. Anything above 3 hours I cannot stand.
 

maziwanka

Lifer
Jul 4, 2000
10,415
1
0
Originally posted by: George P Burdell
Originally posted by: Descartes
3) Agra. Taj Mahal. Just a day.

Are you traveling to Agra by air or road? If the latter, you must stop for breakfast at a road-side dhaba. Best aloo parathas I've ever eaten.

omg. i want to go back to india bad
 

Descartes

Lifer
Oct 10, 1999
13,968
2
0
Originally posted by: Aharami
take a portable DVD player with you. should keep you entertained on those long flights

edit: what airline are you flying with?

I'll probably end up picking up a DVD player. I also brought a load of books as well.

I'm flying NWA to Amsterdam, and KLM to Hyderabad.
 

KarmaPolice

Diamond Member
Jun 24, 2004
3,066
0
0
Flying for that long does suck the big one. After you have watched everything twice, read all you have to read, and listend to your music collection...you still have like 8 hours to go...

Deff worth the pain tho.

I am going to Nepal for 6 months in June. Looking forward to it!
 

Descartes

Lifer
Oct 10, 1999
13,968
2
0
Well, I made it. I don't have any pictures uploaded, but I thought I'd update anyway. The wife is off doing various poojas, and I'm sitting here drinking loads of coffee and watching Telugu movies.

So, it's been an experience. That's about the best way to describe it. There's so much, that I really haven't begun to figure out what I think about everything.

The wedding itself was incredible. It started at 4AM and stopped at 4AM the next day. I've never been so exhausted. I'm a bit of an introvert as well, so being thrown into 24 hours of hardcore socializing was a bit rough on me. I'll post some videos on YouTube when I get them if anyone is curious.

My wife's grandmother died the day after the wedding. She had two heartattacks a week or two before we got here, but she was relatively stable when we got here. She couldn't make it to the wedding, but the wife and I were able to see her. She couldn't talk much, but she told her caretakers that she wanted to wear her best saree when she met her granddaughter's husband. She died a few hours later.

Everyone in the family says that she waited to see me. She just wanted to know who married her granddaughter (they were very close) and that she was happy. It's hard being saddled with thoughts of being the last person of the family to see her alive, but I guess it's at least a happy moment that my wife was able to see her again.

Anyway, the death changed a lot of our plans. My family (mom and brother) ended up going to Agra, Jaipur and Delhi alone, and that alone had I think about 25 hours of travel. Some highlights:

1) Taj Mahal is beautiful. That's probably no surprise. It's much more impressive in person than in photos. The scale of it can't be captured properly.
2) Agra Fort is impressive. The view from the fort of the Taj Mahal is great. I got a lot of nice photos of this.
3) Jaipur seems like a nice place. I enjoyed my time here. The Amber Fort was a lot of fun, and so was the elephant ride up.
4) Delhi is also a nice place. Qutar Minar was incredible. The food is good, the people are nice and there's plenty to do. I got to see Gandhi's assassination site as well.
5) We went to Avanaram (sp?). Nice place. We did a pooja there and everyone was very nice.
6) Went to Tirupati. Insane. We climbed the 3600 steps over the mountains to get there. I did ok, the wife almost passed out after the 2000th step I think. The temple itself is beautiful. We did two poojas there. I got to see the God, and that was an experience I can't really capture in words. The rushing of the crowd, the drums, the fire, the temple... it was all surreal.

This is getting long, and I'm quite sure no one is going to read all this without photos, so I'll summarize if only for my own benefit :)

1) People stare... a lot. I get this in the states as well, especially when I go to Indian gatherings; however, this takes it to a whole new level. I've had positive responses and some negative ones. Part of it might be the fact that I've been seen walking around in everything from Western-wear to a traditional dhoti, but usually it's just because I'm the only white person in sight. I'd like to think it's because I'm just that good looking, but reality sets in.

There were a group of kids at Qutar Minar in Delhi that came over literally by the hundreds just to shake my hand. Kids seem to be really responsive to foreigners. Always smiling and waving.

2) Traffic isn't as insane as I thought it was in the beginning. There really is some reason to the madness. I stopped caring when the driver decided to pull into oncoming traffic or in front of a water buffalo. It just seems to work itself out. I think I've figured out the "system" of the horns, flashing lights and order of precedence when it comes to traffic.

3) Soda/pop/soda-pop/Coke tastes better here. I think it's because actual sugar is used? Not sure.

4) The food isn't as good as I thought it would be. I had some absolutely insipid nonsense in Jaipur. I make better Indian at home. I had some great food in Delhi and even better food in Hyderabad. I've taken a great liking to being able to get some tandoor chicken at just about any time of day.

5) Tipping is insane. Everyone wants a tip. Everyone quotes me at least 2x the actual price. Even in the temples, the priests would hit me up for a tip. They'd usually say a few things in Hindi, asking me if I'm from Calcutta to which I respond "No, America." When it came time to complete the pooja or distribute prasadam, they'd always say "Dakshan?" (I forget how to spell it, sorry). This happened in every temple. I didn't think it was the appropriate place.

Also, the band during the wedding created a scene when they wouldn't let me enter the room again without tipping. They blocked the doors and started playing music. They wouldn't move for less than 500Rs. Crazy.

That's about it. My other post will be short and sweet. I'd like to just share a few of the pictures as I got some really nice shots with my XT.

Hope all is well with ATOTers.
 

Jassi

Diamond Member
Sep 8, 2004
3,296
0
0
Originally posted by: Descartes
Well, I made it. I don't have any pictures uploaded, but I thought I'd update anyway. The wife is off doing various poojas, and I'm sitting here drinking loads of coffee and watching Telugu movies.

So, it's been an experience. That's about the best way to describe it. There's so much, that I really haven't begun to figure out what I think about everything.

The wedding itself was incredible. It started at 4AM and stopped at 4AM the next day. I've never been so exhausted. I'm a bit of an introvert as well, so being thrown into 24 hours of hardcore socializing was a bit rough on me. I'll post some videos on YouTube when I get them if anyone is curious.

My wife's grandmother died the day after the wedding. She had two heartattacks a week or two before we got here, but she was relatively stable when we got here. She couldn't make it to the wedding, but the wife and I were able to see her. She couldn't talk much, but she told her caretakers that she wanted to wear her best saree when she met her granddaughter's husband. She died a few hours later.

Everyone in the family says that she waited to see me. She just wanted to know who married her granddaughter (they were very close) and that she was happy. It's hard being saddled with thoughts of being the last person of the family to see her alive, but I guess it's at least a happy moment that my wife was able to see her again.

Anyway, the death changed a lot of our plans. My family (mom and brother) ended up going to Agra, Jaipur and Delhi alone, and that alone had I think about 25 hours of travel. Some highlights:

1) Taj Mahal is beautiful. That's probably no surprise. It's much more impressive in person than in photos. The scale of it can't be captured properly.
2) Agra Fort is impressive. The view from the fort of the Taj Mahal is great. I got a lot of nice photos of this.
3) Jaipur seems like a nice place. I enjoyed my time here. The Amber Fort was a lot of fun, and so was the elephant ride up.
4) Delhi is also a nice place. Qutar Minar was incredible. The food is good, the people are nice and there's plenty to do. I got to see Gandhi's assassination site as well.
5) We went to Avanaram (sp?). Nice place. We did a pooja there and everyone was very nice.
6) Went to Tirupati. Insane. We climbed the 3600 steps over the mountains to get there. I did ok, the wife almost passed out after the 2000th step I think. The temple itself is beautiful. We did two poojas there. I got to see the God, and that was an experience I can't really capture in words. The rushing of the crowd, the drums, the fire, the temple... it was all surreal.

This is getting long, and I'm quite sure no one is going to read all this without photos, so I'll summarize if only for my own benefit :)

1) People stare... a lot. I get this in the states as well, especially when I go to Indian gatherings; however, this takes it to a whole new level. I've had positive responses and some negative ones. Part of it might be the fact that I've been seen walking around in everything from Western-wear to a traditional dhoti, but usually it's just because I'm the only white person in sight. I'd like to think it's because I'm just that good looking, but reality sets in.

There were a group of kids at Qutar Minar in Delhi that came over literally by the hundreds just to shake my hand. Kids seem to be really responsive to foreigners. Always smiling and waving.

2) Traffic isn't as insane as I thought it was in the beginning. There really is some reason to the madness. I stopped caring when the driver decided to pull into oncoming traffic or in front of a water buffalo. It just seems to work itself out. I think I've figured out the "system" of the horns, flashing lights and order of precedence when it comes to traffic.

3) Soda/pop/soda-pop/Coke tastes better here. I think it's because actual sugar is used? Not sure.

4) The food isn't as good as I thought it would be. I had some absolutely insipid nonsense in Jaipur. I make better Indian at home. I had some great food in Delhi and even better food in Hyderabad. I've taken a great liking to being able to get some tandoor chicken at just about any time of day.

5) Tipping is insane. Everyone wants a tip. Everyone quotes me at least 2x the actual price. Even in the temples, the priests would hit me up for a tip. They'd usually say a few things in Hindi, asking me if I'm from Calcutta to which I respond "No, America." When it came time to complete the pooja or distribute prasadam, they'd always say "Dakshan?" (I forget how to spell it, sorry). This happened in every temple. I didn't think it was the appropriate place.

Also, the band during the wedding created a scene when they wouldn't let me enter the room again without tipping. They blocked the doors and started playing music. They wouldn't move for less than 500Rs. Crazy.

That's about it. My other post will be short and sweet. I'd like to just share a few of the pictures as I got some really nice shots with my XT.

Hope all is well with ATOTers.


Its the pesticides :p
 

Descartes

Lifer
Oct 10, 1999
13,968
2
0
Originally posted by: Jassi

Its the pesticides :p

Hah, yeah, I remember reading about that. I was assured that it's no longer an issue. We'll see :)

Thumbs Up is quite good though.
 

Jassi

Diamond Member
Sep 8, 2004
3,296
0
0
Have you tried the one with the marble seal? I don't know if they still make that. I don't think it has a brand name though. We used to call it "Banta Pop". Banta = marble.
 

Cristatus

Diamond Member
Oct 13, 2004
3,908
2
81
Dakshan is not a tip...it's an offering, like those hats that they pass around in churches.
 

Cristatus

Diamond Member
Oct 13, 2004
3,908
2
81
Originally posted by: Jassi
Have you tried the one with the marble seal? I don't know if they still make that. I don't think it has a brand name though. We used to call it "Banta Pop". Banta = marble.

Marble soda? i.e. the soda that doesn't have a top, but a marble stuck in the top third of the bottle?

We call it goti soda in MH and GJ. I love that stuff, with all the masala in it.

edit:This
 

Descartes

Lifer
Oct 10, 1999
13,968
2
0
Originally posted by: Jassi
Have you tried the one with the marble seal? I don't know if they still make that. I don't think it has a brand name though. We used to call it "Banta Pop". Banta = marble.

Nope, haven't seen that anywhere....
 

Descartes

Lifer
Oct 10, 1999
13,968
2
0
Originally posted by: Cristatus
Dakshan is not a tip...it's an offering, like those hats that they pass around in churches.

I probably should have clarified that. Some directly asked for tips, others the Dakshan. My overriding point though was that they only asked me for the Dakshan.

It's not a problem. Just an observation...
 

hypn0tik

Diamond Member
Jul 5, 2005
5,866
2
0
Glad to hear you had an awesome time there!

Hyderabad is an awesome place. I was there in 2006 with my dad to visit family. It was a good time. The heat, dust, and traffic is ridiculous, but you learn to love it.
 

darthsidious

Senior member
Jul 13, 2005
481
0
71
Great to hear about your trip. I grew up in Delhi; I love that city. There's just so much to do. And the food (especially punjabi/mughalai style food) is incredible. And there's an incredible energy about the city (that I've only seen matched by new york).

As for food at other places, perhaps you were thrown off by regional differences in cuisine. I'm not a huge fan of rajasthani food myself ;).

BTW, I know you're an espresso hound. If I'd known before you left, I would have told you a few places in delhi you could have got your fix with reasonably good espresso. I don't know how it happens, because they use super-auto machines, and the baristas have probably never heard of the phrase crema, but the espresso was much better than one would expect - certainly far better than the average in the US.

 

Descartes

Lifer
Oct 10, 1999
13,968
2
0
Originally posted by: hypn0tik
Glad to hear you had an awesome time there!

Hyderabad is an awesome place. I was there in 2006 with my dad to visit family. It was a good time. The heat, dust, and traffic is ridiculous, but you learn to love it.

Yeah, it's funny how that worked out. Traffic is one of my primary stressors in Atlanta, yet here I'd say it's worse and yet I'm not particularly bothered by it. Maybe it's because it seems like it's always moving, even if that means moving in front of traffic, people, etc. The whole city is constantly moving.

Hyderabad has a lot of nice restaurants, so I was happy about that. Fusion 9 is quite good, especially considering how varied their menu is. After 3 weeks of dahl + curry every day, I admit that I had to try some Italian. It was quite good.
 

hypn0tik

Diamond Member
Jul 5, 2005
5,866
2
0
Originally posted by: Descartes
Originally posted by: hypn0tik
Glad to hear you had an awesome time there!

Hyderabad is an awesome place. I was there in 2006 with my dad to visit family. It was a good time. The heat, dust, and traffic is ridiculous, but you learn to love it.

Yeah, it's funny how that worked out. Traffic is one of my primary stressors in Atlanta, yet here I'd say it's worse and yet I'm not particularly bothered by it. Maybe it's because it seems like it's always moving, even if that means moving in front of traffic, people, etc. The whole city is constantly moving.

Hyderabad has a lot of nice restaurants, so I was happy about that. Fusion 9 is quite good, especially considering how varied their menu is. After 3 weeks of dahl + curry every day, I admit that I had to try some Italian. It was quite good.

Well, I've found that it makes a huge difference depending on if you are driving or not. If you aren't driving, there's not too much stress on you.


The restaurants there are awesome. We hit up a few places. One was the Taj in Abids, another was Minerva in Himayatnagar, Taj Tristar somewhere in Secunderabad (amazing lunch buffet) and a few others I can't remember off the top of my head. I haven't heard of Fusion 9.

What I like more than the restaurants are those little pani puri stalls on the side of the roads. I used to go often when I was younger, but I didn't brave it on my last trip as I was afraid of catching something from the water.

Speaking of that, one of my cousins took me to a kick ass chat place which I *think* is in Himayatnagar, but I really can't recall.

I think the only thing I have yet to experience is the night life there (nobody to go with). Hopefully next time I'm there, some of my cousins will be there and can show me around.
 

Descartes

Lifer
Oct 10, 1999
13,968
2
0
Originally posted by: darthsidious
Great to hear about your trip. I grew up in Delhi; I love that city. There's just so much to do. And the food (especially punjabi/mughalai style food) is incredible. And there's an incredible energy about the city (that I've only seen matched by new york).

I love Punjabi food. I eat South Indian food most of the time, in a style that is usually without ginger and garlic. I tend to miss it in the masalas.

My exposure to Mughalai food is limited as this trip is the first time I've heard it referred to as such.

As for food at other places, perhaps you were thrown off by regional differences in cuisine. I'm not a huge fan of rajasthani food myself ;).

Probably. I'm not well versed in the subtleties by region, but tend to differentiate more on the larger lines of north vs. south.

BTW, I know you're an espresso hound. If I'd known before you left, I would have told you a few places in delhi you could have got your fix with reasonably good espresso. I don't know how it happens, because they use super-auto machines, and the baristas have probably never heard of the phrase crema, but the espresso was much better than one would expect - certainly far better than the average in the US.

That would have been great. I've been at an espresso deficit most of the time. I did find a reasonable cappuccino at a place in Hyderabad though. I haven't had much time to really scope out any of the coffee shops though.

I have at least a handful of cups of coffee made by my mother-in-law though. It's pretty good, though sometimes I'd prefer it without sugar and milk.
 

darthsidious

Senior member
Jul 13, 2005
481
0
71
Originally posted by: Descartes
Originally posted by: darthsidious
Great to hear about your trip. I grew up in Delhi; I love that city. There's just so much to do. And the food (especially punjabi/mughalai style food) is incredible. And there's an incredible energy about the city (that I've only seen matched by new york).

I love Punjabi food. I eat South Indian food most of the time, in a style that is usually without ginger and garlic. I tend to miss it in the masalas.

My exposure to Mughalai food is limited as this trip is the first time I've heard it referred to as such.

As for food at other places, perhaps you were thrown off by regional differences in cuisine. I'm not a huge fan of rajasthani food myself ;).

Probably. I'm not well versed in the subtleties by region, but tend to differentiate more on the larger lines of north vs. south.

BTW, I know you're an espresso hound. If I'd known before you left, I would have told you a few places in delhi you could have got your fix with reasonably good espresso. I don't know how it happens, because they use super-auto machines, and the baristas have probably never heard of the phrase crema, but the espresso was much better than one would expect - certainly far better than the average in the US.

That would have been great. I've been at an espresso deficit most of the time. I did find a reasonable cappuccino at a place in Hyderabad though. I haven't had much time to really scope out any of the coffee shops though.

I have at least a handful of cups of coffee made by my mother-in-law though. It's pretty good, though sometimes I'd prefer it without sugar and milk.


Mughalai food tends to be more cream/gravy driven than traditional punjabi food. It's derived from the invaders who ruled north india a few hundred years agos - It's tasty, but extremly bad for you, and very rich. Tons of places in connaught place - incuding standards like Minar serve this kind of food.

Coffee in india, as a rule tends to be fairly sweet and milky. They'll look at you as a weirdo if you ask for it w/o milk and sugar, especially in the south. Traditionally, they use an interesting variation on a french press. And it is cool to pour the coffee between the big metal cups to cool it down...
 

Aharami

Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
21,205
165
106
glad to see you're having a good time. yea staring is unavoidable there. I was getting stares when I went back and was wearing shorts outside....and Im indian! I have to say though, Im quite jealous of your trip as you've seen more of India than I have and I used to live there the first 12 yrs of my life. If you dont mind me asking, how much is this trip costing you (I havent been back to India in a while and not sure how cheap/expensive things are there now). Im in the opposite situation than you in that Im indian and my fiance isnt. So I would like to take her to India for a long trip after we're married
 

isasir

Diamond Member
Aug 8, 2000
8,609
0
0
I take it your wife is from Kerala? There's a very good chance that my itinerary will be quite similar when my wife (she's Malu) and I go.