OCing a 2000+

MeNTaLCaSe

Junior Member
Dec 6, 2002
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I have an XP 2000+ palomino on a Epox 8k5a3+ with 256mb of corsair xms pc2700. I have no pci cards installed and im using a gf2 gts. I havnt unlocked the processor yet, so i was trying to see what i could get out of raising the fsb. I got it up to 145 wit the vcore at 1.85. It went into windows then restarted before alot of my programs could load. Do i need more voltage to get the it to boot? Also what is the highest i can run my agp slot over spec? I dont want to like fry my video card or ne ting.

ne help would be great
Mike

Also im using a stock hsf will that be enuff to cool an overclocked 2000+
 

rommelrommel

Diamond Member
Dec 7, 2002
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I can't answer most of your questions since I'm only starting with preparing to OC my 2000+ but:

Stock HSF is not good for OCing

2000+ is generally a poorer OCer than some other athlons

 

loafbred

Senior member
May 7, 2000
836
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You didn't mention what temp your cpu is running at with 1.85v. If it's going over 50* C, I personally wouldn't let it run at that voltage. Leave memory timings set to "normal" while finding the limits of the cpu, then work on memory timings.

First, I would see if it will run fully stable at 138 fsb (~1725 MHz) with default voltage. If it won't, you probably won't get it to run stable at 1900 MHz with less than 1.9v - and that will make a LOT of heat. You'll need one of the best coolers available.

Your best bet, regardless of how fast the cpu will run, is to unlock it so that you can run the fsb at 166 or higher. I unlocked my 2100+ using White-Out and conductive paint from a Permatex window defogger repair kit (~$9). The trick to using White-Out is to barely cover the bridge contacts on the cpu with clear tape, and fix the ends of the tape strips so that they can be removed VERY quickly after applying White-Out in the gap. Inspect it carefully with a strong magnifier before proceeding to the taping/painting of the bridges. If you don't like the way it looks, rub it off with a toothpick and redo it. I didn't seal one of the pits on my first try, and I ended up with only 5, 7, 9, and 11 multipliers. I masked and painted one bridge at a time, and let each dry for about five minutes before putting tape over it to do the next bridge. If it bleeds a little under the tape, joining two of the bridges, let the paint dry for a while, then cover the part you want to stay intact with tape, then rub a pin or needle point to remove the unwanted paint - it becomes brittle and scrapes off easily. Patience and a good magnifier are necessities.
 

loafbred

Senior member
May 7, 2000
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91
I should have given him the link to do a 2100+, but I wasn't sure if a 2000+ will be the same as a 2100+. You have to short two pins on the bottom of the PCB, which can be accomplished either by using a fine piece of wire to connect the two socket holes, or by shorting the two pins with something conductive. I put two fine strands of wire in the two holes of the socket. It might be possible to accomplish the same thing by closing one of the L3 bridges, but again, I'm not sure about the 2000+. Regardless, he'll have to connect his L1 bridges.

2100+ unlock

I found a site explaining how to use wire in the socket holes, but can't find it right now. I have the JPEG's if you want me to email.