OC problem on P5K, very itermittant blue screens (every 12 hours or more)

Markfw

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May 16, 2002
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I am having terrible blue screens, and I know I am overclocking, but at hundreds less mhz, its just as bad (so long as my memory is running close to rated speed)

I have the vdimm set at 2.2 in bios, and 5-5-5-15, and the memory only needs 1.9, but its horrible. I change to some crucial PC 8000 , and its better, but not cured. Since I have horrible vdroop on the vcore, what about the vdimm ? could have the same problem ? or up some other voltage ? NB ? This new P35 motherboard has so many settings, I can;t tell which one is to up the NB voltage, and what it should end up being, as they don't have +.1,+.2, etc, but a real voltage.

Help !
 

Cutthroat

Golden Member
Apr 13, 2002
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Do you have the vanilla P5K or the P5K Deluxe? I can give you some tips about the Deluxe, things may differ a bit on the vanilla but it should be close.

#1. Flash your BIOS to the latest version, some options won't appear until you do, plus they newer BIOS's are able to OC a bit better.

I'll List out my BIOS settings for you and some info I have learned about them in some cases. I'll just cover the 'Jumperfree' menu for now, nothing outside that menu is likely going to affect your OC, with the exception of your CPU multiplier setting found in the 'CPU config' which I found I had to set manually at first, and everything else in that menu should be disabled. I've given you my settings in some cases so you can try to scale your OC from there, and in some cases I gave safe settings (DRAM Timing) because my info is irrelevant.

Jumperfree Configuration

-AI Overclocking: Manual
-CPU Ratio Control: Manual
-Ratio CMOS Setting: [Spec Multiplier]
-FSB Strap to North Bridge - Auto (This setting allows the DRAM frequency to stay at the ratio you want at any frequency, you'll see when you change the FSB Frequency the DRAM frequency changes automatically to the correct value)
-FSB Frequency: 400MHZ (mine)
-PCIE Frequency: 100MHZ (safe)
-DRAM Frequency: 800MHZ (mine)
-DRAM Timing Control: Manual
-DRAM Command Rate: 2T (I can only get 1T to work at lower frequencies and looser timings, I've seen much of the same on forums that not too many people can get 1T to work)

> *Safe settings, adjust tighter after stable*
-CAS Latency - 5T
-RAS to CAS Delay - 5T
-RAS Precharge - 5T
-RAS Active Time - 15T
-RAS to RAS Delay - 10T
-Row Refresh Cycle Time - 42T
-Write Recovery Time - 10T
-Write to Read Delay - 10T
-Read to Precharge Time - 10T
> *Safe settings, adjust tighter after stable*

> *My settings*
-CAS Latency - 4T
-RAS to CAS Delay - 4T
-RAS Precharge - 3T
-RAS Active Time - 5T
-RAS to RAS Delay - 3T
-Row Refresh Cycle Time - 42T
-Write Recovery Time - 6T
-Write to Read Delay - 3T
-Read to Precharge Time - 6T
> *My settings*

-DRAM Static Read Control - Auto (mine)
-Transaction Booster - Auto (mine)

The previous couple of settings are new to recent BIOS''s and there is very little info about them, most people say they cannot POST with both enabled at the same time, but if I leave the Boost level at '0'' I still get a performance boost, and it''s stable. If I change Boost Level to '1'' I can''t POST with DRAM Static Read Control enabled as well. If I disable DRAM Static Read Control and use Boost Level '1'' I can POST with looser timings, but I lose the performance gain, so I found my settings the most stable with the best performance I can get out of it. Unfortunatly everthing I just said did not work in the long run, I need to set both to Auto for long term stability.

-Clock Over-Charging Mode - Auto (don''t know what this does, everybody has it set to Auto)
-CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled
-PCIE Spread Spectrum - Disabled

-CPU Voltage - 1.40v (mine)
-CPU Voltage Reference - Auto (you can set this manually if you understand it)
-CPU Voltage Damper - Enabled (This is the setting that controls vdroop,it''s awesome, vdroop pretty much goes away).
-CPU PLL Voltage - 1.50v (mine) (seems to improve stability by setting manually)
-DRAM Voltage - 2.1v (mine) (my memory is rated at 1.9v-2.1v, it does not like to be overvolted (is that a word?) at all on this motherboard, more than 2.1v crashes all my memory overclocking tests.)
-FSB Termination Voltage - 1.40v (mine) (seems to improve stability by setting manually)
-North Bridge Voltage - 1.55v (mine) (seems to improve stability by setting manually)
-North Bridge Voltage Reference - Auto (you can set this manually if you understand it)
-South Bridge Voltage - 1.20v (mine) (on''t post at 1.05v with my current OC, Auto works for me too).

So there ya go, I hope it helps you a bit anyway. Keep in mind that my settings are not finalized, I am still messing with my OC trying to get to 3.4GHZ stable, I can get the CPU stable at that Freq., but not the memory I''ve hit a wall.

Edited: I had to change the settings as 3.4GHZ didn't stay stable, so they now reflect my settings at 3.2GHZ which is perfectly stable for months.
 

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
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I have the vanilla, but all those options look close to mine. Is 1.55 NB too high ? What is stock ?

And thanks, I will try the voltage damper and the NB terminations.

Oh, and I have the latest bios. The multiplier set didn;t even work until I flashed to the most recent.
 

Cutthroat

Golden Member
Apr 13, 2002
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Originally posted by: Markfw900
I have the vanilla, but all those options look close to mine. Is 1.55 NB too high ? What is stock ?

And thanks, I will try the voltage damper and the NB terminations.

Oh, and I have the latest bios. The multiplier set didn;t even work until I flashed to the most recent.

I have no idea what stock is, there was no way to really tell, it's not reported in the BIOS, and software monitoring utilities can't get NB voltage in Vista. I guaged that from looking at other peoples settings with similar overclocks, I have seen some folks with high overclocks using the 1.7v setting.

Just try to use my settings as a guideline to get to the same overclock I have, then go from there. One really nice thing about this board is if you mess up your OC and it doesn't POST all you need to do is turn it off via the power button and turn it back on again to reset to defaults. I've never used the CMOS jumper.
 
Oct 1, 2003
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This isn't from personal experience with the board so I could be wrong. From all the info I've found reading up on the lastest boards though the vanilla P5K has a bad vdroop that even the voltage damper option doesn't fix. So it's possible you're having trouble keeping it stable because of that. The problem doesn't exist on the DELUXE however.
 

Cutthroat

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Apr 13, 2002
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I edited my original post because I managed to get to 3.4GHZ stable, I changed a couple things...
 

Cutthroat

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Apr 13, 2002
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Originally posted by: SilentAssassin
This isn't from personal experience with the board so I could be wrong. From all the info I've found reading up on the lastest boards though the vanilla P5K has a bad vdroop that even the voltage damper option doesn't fix. So it's possible you're having trouble keeping it stable because of that. The problem doesn't exist on the DELUXE however.

Ouch, that would suck, hope that is not the case. Hopefully a BIOS update can fix it if it's not working correctly.
 

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
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Right now I have the bios at 1.45, and under load it is 1.328 (essentially stock) Now stable without blue screens at 3.2, but I keep getting early end unit on F@H... Might have to back down. My other Q6600 is stable at 3.2 at the same load vcore, no EEU's on a DS3. This motherboard sucks.....
 

AllGamer

Senior member
Apr 26, 2006
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well... sounds like you guys are fine, and don't need any help.

yeah that's the problem with some mobos, if the vcore fluctuates too much, then your OC becomes unstable, no much you can do, but to:
A. lower the speed even more
B. pump up higher the v.core with the chance of bricking your CPU

on a side note, i never really had any v.memory problem, v.memory is very stable in most mobos.

I'm stable at 3333 on stock air, using low voltage, and low temps

my goal was to go as high as i can, without causing damage.

but this baby can easily go to 4000 with the right HSF or WC, and upping the voltage more.

but i'm not crazy enough to do that, for a machine that needs to be running 24/7/12 non stop

i got it up to 3600 unstable, probably due the low voltage, and 3500 stable

i didn't want to go off the +/-10% max of v1.35 to prevent burning the CPU

but at 3500 the RAM/CPU ratio was off, and the performance degraded

at 3333 i get a 1:1 ratio with the RAM at 333

running it at 3333, i can actually lower both the voltage even lower than what is required, thus reducing Temp and being much safer overall.
 

TBSN

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Nov 12, 2006
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I've also got an Asus P5K-D, and it's overclocked very easily so far. I have a question about the motherboard voltages though, as it seems to get pretty hot...

If I leave it on auto and OC, like I did, will it set the voltage too high and damage my motherboard? Also, is there a way to reliably monitor the temperature of the NB and SB? So far the CPU has stayed at very reasonable temperatures, but since I don't know what the "AUTO" voltage is on the mobo, and according to PC Probe it gets kind of hot, I am a little worried about overclocking without setting a safe voltage for the motherboard...

Thanks for posting your settings, I'm glad I know what CPU Voltage damper does.
 

AllGamer

Senior member
Apr 26, 2006
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download RMClock it is a better software that the PCProbe2 that comes with ASUS
 

Thor86

Diamond Member
May 3, 2001
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If you want stable CPU overclocks you shouldn't be using the P5K Vanilla. That is what the Deluxe is for. The Vanilla is only good for memory overclocking.
 

DXtreme

Senior member
Jun 19, 2001
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I have the P5K vanilla and it's perfectly stable for overclocking [E6400 @ 3.2 (8*400)].

Not a single issue with it and love the board!

See rig below!
 

Cutthroat

Golden Member
Apr 13, 2002
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Originally posted by: Cutthroat
I edited my original post because I managed to get to 3.4GHZ stable, I changed a couple things...

I may have spoke too soon, I was a good 12 hours stable yesterday, now it doesn't like my memory timings again, I've got it at 5-5-5-15 and the rest at auto and it's at 2.3v. F@H was reporting early work units overnight, and I can get an odd error in Everest's memory test.

Now if I leave the voltage at 2.1v I can induce a memory error under Everest in about 1 minute, at 2.3v it takes about 5 minutes to get an error, and at voltages in between it seems linear. So it would seem that I should increase the vDIMM again, but I really don't think it's safe to take it past 2.3v.
 

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
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Well, mine (after about 9 hours) blue screened again. Actually it was up for over a day, but had a EEU on F@H. I tweaked settings 9 hours ago, and No EEU yet, then blue screen. So my 1.9v memory, was at 2.0 vdimm, and I pumped it up one more to 2.1. All the other settings are exactly what you have above for safe mode, as its not really stable yet.
 

Cutthroat

Golden Member
Apr 13, 2002
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Well I got a bit frustrated and started back at 3280MHZ where I know it's stable, so I'm gonna try a couple of things to get it back to 3400MHZ, I'll get back to you.

Edit: So I loaded my previously saved settings for 3280MHZ that was 2 weeks stable and it's no longer stable. I don't get it, I wonder if I did some minor damage by pushing it too far yesterday. I'm back at 3200MHZ testing what was stable for months before this, we'll see how it goes.

Edit: So my 3.2GHZ settings seem just fine so far, it originally didn't have the Transaction Boost setting available so I tried to enable it and got some errors while stability testing. So I decided to try my original settings at 3400MHZ with Static Read Control and Transaction Boost set to auto, and my memory timings at safe and I set the vcore at 1.425 and the memory voltage at 2.3v, looked good for a bit, but it gives me the same crashes. So I tried 3280MHZ again and still no go. So I've decided that the Transaction Boost setting should be set to Auto. I'm still testing some other settings on 3200MHZ to see if I can tighten it up a bit, but I think I'm gonna have to leave it at this frequency for now and try again after the next BIOS update.
 

Cutthroat

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Apr 13, 2002
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BTW, what kind of BSOD are you getting? Are you positive it is related to your overclocking and not something else?

In all the testing I have done overclocking I have only had 1 BSOD at 3.6GHZ (Stop 0x00000124), otherwise I would only get Everest or Orthos complaining about invalid floating point operations, or at worst a hard lockup.

Of particular interest, when I did have that one BSOD, Vista sent an error report as usual, but I got a response saying there was a problem with either my PSU, CPU or Motherboard, which was exactly right even though it was induced by overclocking. First time I've ever seen Windows give a solution to an error, and a correct one at that.
 

Cutthroat

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Apr 13, 2002
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UPDATE: I'm back at 3.2GHZ for now, and so far more than 24 hours stable at F@H, but I can't get Orthos Blend to run for even 10 seconds anymore, just locks up the PC, sometimes the mouse moves, sometimes it doesn't. I can run all the rest of the orthos tests, and any other stability test. At one point last night I got frustrated with Orthos and tried my stock CPU speed and it still locked up before 10 seconds, so I've decided Orthos just doesn't like me.

I found this article on overclocking the P5K which had some interesting tips.

Tomorrow after work I'm going to give it another shot, but I'm going to take a different approach. From info in some of the articles I've read, and also from personal experience I'm come to the conclusion that the P5K can actually take a very high fsb, but something else is holding me back. So I'm gonna try 7x500 or as close as I can get.
 

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
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well, 24 hours now @ 3.1. I seems to ike crucial and hate corsair. They both passed memtest, but corair can't go an hour, crucial still going for over 24.
 

elfman

Junior Member
Jul 21, 2007
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The issue with Orthos goes for all Asus P5K Deluxe boards I think. I've tried with several different brands of memory, at both stock and oc settings, Orthos NEVER stays alive. Mostly my computer just reboots after 10 seconds to 60 minutes. It's random as hell :/
 

TBSN

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Nov 12, 2006
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Thanks for the link to the P5K article, it looks really thorough (I haven't finished it yet, will later). I confirmed for me that the Voltage Damper setting set to 'enabled' rather than 'auto' does help with the vdroop. I have my E6420 at 3.2 (400fsb) at 1.320V (that's through CPU-Z, it must be set a little higher in BIOS) and it's stable for around 2 hours in Orthos (I was too lazy to let it run longer, I'll have to try that)

I have a quick question: If you run SuperPi to test stability, do you have to check that it has actually done the calculations correctly, or is it all good if it just finishes without crashing or whatever? This is the first time I've OC'ed so a lot of this is new to me...

**Oh, I have another question too... I'm using the BIOS that came installed with the mobo; I haven't updated because it works fine, so I thought why not just use that. Are there any reasons to flash to a newer version if this one works?
 

Markfw

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May 16, 2002
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OK, new memory, and now I am at 3.2. At the same speed, but different multiplier, it won;t even post. It hates high fsb. But its at 3.2 at least.... Waste og my PC-8000.
 

Cutthroat

Golden Member
Apr 13, 2002
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Originally posted by: TBSN
Thanks for the link to the P5K article, it looks really thorough (I haven't finished it yet, will later). I confirmed for me that the Voltage Damper setting set to 'enabled' rather than 'auto' does help with the vdroop. I have my E6420 at 3.2 (400fsb) at 1.320V (that's through CPU-Z, it must be set a little higher in BIOS) and it's stable for around 2 hours in Orthos (I was too lazy to let it run longer, I'll have to try that)

I have a quick question: If you run SuperPi to test stability, do you have to check that it has actually done the calculations correctly, or is it all good if it just finishes without crashing or whatever? This is the first time I've OC'ed so a lot of this is new to me...

**Oh, I have another question too... I'm using the BIOS that came installed with the mobo; I haven't updated because it works fine, so I thought why not just use that. Are there any reasons to flash to a newer version if this one works?

SuperPi really isn't the best thing to test for stability because it doesn't work for very long, You really need to use something that will stress your PC for 24 hours to be sure. Orthos is good, but apparantly doesn't like the P5K, OCCT I have found good in the past, but haven't used it with the P5K, I also use Everest's stability test for short term tests.

You should always flash to the newest version of your BIOS, they may have made adjustments that heelp you overclock better, or get more performance or stability, etc.