obvious case design improvement

[nullpointerus]

I've been wondering something for a while now. Why don't case manufacturers just make cases that mount the PSUs upside-down with a 120mm hole on top of the case and a dust filter to obscure the real fan size of the PSU? This idea should make for much better cooling as the PSU's airflow would be separated from the rest of the system (instead of competing with it!), and I really don't see how the mounting would affect compatibility significantly enough to lose many sales.

Anyway, I'd like to mod my Antec SLK-3000B to support this. I don't have a dremel, but I did read something about a 4" hole cutter in some topic. What I really need is details. You see, I have a cordless screwdriver with a drill setting, but I'm not familiar with drilling. I do know that the time it takes to cut through case material can increase dramatically if I use the wrong type of blade. I believe it's a steel case. Also, I'll need to drill some extra holes in the back of the case due to the screw layout of ATX PSUs. Do I need special bits for steel? Or would standard bits (i.e. for wood) work fine?

 

[Zepper]

It's nice to have titanium treated bits for drilling steel but they're not necessary. It is also a good idea to mark the points you are drilling with a center punch so your drills don't travel and scribe the circle with a diamond point to start the cutting. The Aerocool masstige and coolview mount the PSU at the bottom with the air intake on the bottom of the case. I think the Coolermaster STC01 can intake on the bottom too. I think it is a good idea to face the PSU intake away from the CPU fan so that it doesn't scavenge CPU air. If there is a bit of space above the PSU, you don't really have to cut the hole - though that would definitely make the PSU run cooler. However, there is a dark side to a PSU intake hole on the top - one could accidentally feed their PSU a coke or a beer. Not good...

.bh.

 

[nullpointerus]

Originally posted by: Zepper
It's nice to have titanium treated bits for drilling steel but they're not necessary. It is also a good idea to mark the points you are drilling with a center punch so your drills don't travel and scribe the circle with a diamond point to start the cutting.

Thanks! That sounds like very good advice. I have a hole punch lying around somewhere. Do you have anything to add regarding which type of hole saw to purchase, or isn't there much difference?

 

[Zepper]

Lots of hole saws are made for wood, get one that can at least cut mild steel. Unless you plan to do a lot of fan hole cutting, perhaps renting one from a local rent-all business would be a good idea. Really depends on the price diff between buying and renting.

.bh.

 

[nullpointerus]

Originally posted by: Zepper
Lots of hole saws are made for wood, get one that can at least cut mild steel. Unless you plan to do a lot of fan hole cutting, perhaps renting one from a local rent-all business would be a good idea. Really depends on the price diff between buying and renting.

Maybe "hole saw" isn't the correct term. I meant a drill bit with a hollow circular cylinder that has teeth parallel to the bit shaft - like what you'd use to cut a door knob hole out of a wooden door. Something like this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p...ctId=204994-28303-34072-72A&lpage=none

Would this cut through steel? I did expect them to be a little cheaper, but then again I've some cases around here with noise/heat problems which could be solved with a few 120mm fan holes, so maybe the price is right.

EDIT: I measured, and the hole diameter is about 4 1/2", not 4 1/8".

 

[Zepper]

That should do it.

.bh.

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: nullpointerus

Originally posted by: Zepper
Lots of hole saws are made for wood, get one that can at least cut mild steel. Unless you plan to do a lot of fan hole cutting, perhaps renting one from a local rent-all business would be a good idea. Really depends on the price diff between buying and renting.

Maybe "hole saw" isn't the correct term. I meant a drill bit with a hollow circular cylinder that has teeth parallel to the bit shaft - like what you'd use to cut a door knob hole out of a wooden door. Something like this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p...ctId=204994-28303-34072-72A&lpage=none

Would this cut through steel? I did expect them to be a little cheaper, but then again I've some cases around here with noise/heat problems which could be solved with a few 120mm fan holes, so maybe the price is right.

EDIT: I measured, and the hole diameter is about 4 1/2", not 4 1/8".

Yep, that's a hole saw.

 

[JEDIYoda]

quite a few PSU`s automatically mount upside down!
Mounting them upsidedown won`t hurt a PSU at all.
All you have to do is make sure that you don`t block the fan and have proper airflow from within the PSU venting out the PSU out of the case!

Good Luck!

 

[nullpointerus]

Thanks everyone for the help and replies!