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Observation - Aircon units don't appear to go below 16 degrees

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Why do you need your AC to make it cooler than 60º inside?
Are you one of those numpties that thinks turning it lower makes it get cold faster?
 
My problem is that my AC unit doesn't work if the temperature outside is low. Even if the temperature inside is well above 70F. The fan settings don't seem to do anything. And even if I was willing to open the window (I'm not because of allergies) it wouldn't be practical with the AC unit in there.
 
Ken g6 said:
My problem is that my AC unit doesn't work if the temperature outside is low. Even if the temperature inside is well above 70F. The fan settings don't seem to do anything. And even if I was willing to open the window (I'm not because of allergies) it wouldn't be practical with the AC unit in there.
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Have you tried turning it off and back on again cleaning it?
 
Our unit at work was locked to 71F (I hate that the thermostat is in imperial but people insist to leave it that way) and we were always sweating in here. We finally got that fixed. HVAC guys reprogrammed it so it goes lower and also rebalanced the air supplies so that there is less air on the thermostat side of the room, so that it runs longer. It was also off by several degrees to make matters worse. Now we're actually comfortable in here.

Before I got central AC I had a portable but guess it was made in the states because it only displayed in imperial and there was no way to change it. So I had a conversion table glued to it so I know what I'm actually setting it to. Usually I would just set it to like 67 or something, whatever was the lowest it went to.

For my central AC I built my own thermostat so it will go as low as I set it. Of course the unit itself will only really be able to do so much. Normally it will be like 19C on the main floor and around 22C on the second floor (split level house). One of these days I need to add electronic dampers in the two main trunks and a bypass so I can better control my hvac airflow. In winter I want most of the heat going to the lower floor and in summer I want the AC to go mostly to the upper floor. The dampers could open/close as required to balance out the temp. Will work better once I put sensors in every room. In fact instead of putting dampers in the two trunks I could put some in individual room feeds. Electronic dampers are expensive AF though. I'll have to design my own using servos.
 
AC for the computer room had to be a special design that will work even when it's cold outside.
 
Red Squirrel said:
Our unit at work was locked to 71F (I hate that the thermostat is in imperial but people insist to leave it that way) and we were always sweating in here. We finally got that fixed. HVAC guys reprogrammed it so it goes lower and also rebalanced the air supplies so that there is less air on the thermostat side of the room, so that it runs longer. It was also off by several degrees to make matters worse. Now we're actually comfortable in here.

Before I got central AC I had a portable but guess it was made in the states because it only displayed in imperial and there was no way to change it. So I had a conversion table glued to it so I know what I'm actually setting it to. Usually I would just set it to like 67 or something, whatever was the lowest it went to.

For my central AC I built my own thermostat so it will go as low as I set it. Of course the unit itself will only really be able to do so much. Normally it will be like 19C on the main floor and around 22C on the second floor (split level house). One of these days I need to add electronic dampers in the two main trunks and a bypass so I can better control my hvac airflow. In winter I want most of the heat going to the lower floor and in summer I want the AC to go mostly to the upper floor. The dampers could open/close as required to balance out the temp. Will work better once I put sensors in every room. In fact instead of putting dampers in the two trunks I could put some in individual room feeds. Electronic dampers are expensive AF though. I'll have to design my own using servos.
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I have a 3 ton for upstairs and a 4 ton for downstairs. It is 103F with the temperature humidity index of 109F outside. My house is a nice cool and comfortable 65F. I could make it lower but it would feel uncomfortable. I got my electric bill yesterday and jeez, it was $148.
 
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Cepak said:
I have a 3 ton for upstairs and a 4 ton for downstairs. It is 103F with the temperature humidity index of 109F outside. My house is a nice cool and comfortable 65F. I could make it lower but it would feel uncomfortable. I got my electric bill yesterday and jeez, it was $148.
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Lol nice, I have a 2 ton for whole house. My bill is around $170 without the AC, I'm scared to look now. Though for us it's the fixed fees that are a killer. $100 of the bill is just fixed fees. So I don't feel too bad if I don't conserve because either way I'm paying through the nose. 😛
 
Red Squirrel said:
Lol nice, I have a 2 ton for whole house. My bill is around $170 without the AC, I'm scared to look now. Though for us it's the fixed fees that are a killer. $100 of the bill is just fixed fees. So I don't feel too bad if I don't conserve because either way I'm paying through the nose. 😛
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Luckily Texas has its own separate power grid than the rest of the country. Thanks to the Texas Government deregulating the electric industry in 2002, we have cheaper rates than most of the country. My wife signed us up last year for a 24 month contract at 7.4 cents per Kilowatt hour. What is weird is that the more electricity you use, the cheaper it gets. You can still sign up for rates around 8.9 cents per Kilowatt hour, but Summer is the worst time to sign up as far as rates go.
 
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