NuclearNed's summer climbing trip, 2023 edition

[NuclearNed]

Hey Everyone - Originally I wanted to get all my pics & videos online before I created this thread, but simply can't make myself wait anymore (i.e. YouTube takes forever!). I'll keep daily updating this thread with new pics/videos until I get them all uploaded.

A friend and I just got back from our summer climbing trip in the Seattle area. On Monday 7/31 we went over to North Cascades National Park and climbed Forbidden Peak. FP was gnarly - by far the most demanding and fun climb I've ever done. I'm proud of all my summits, but FP is a serious "big boy" climb - even Grand Teton seems tame compared to FP. Since few people are familiar with FP, its crux is rated at 5.6 (i.e. intermediate difficulty), but what FP is famous for is that every second of the climb is extremely exposed - usually to the tune of 1000' on multiple sides. FP was a long day - about 15hrs of climbing. Then we climbed Mt. Baker on Thursday 8/3. Baker is a relatively easy climb - the only technicality is that nearly 100% of the climb is on glacial ice, with all its associated dangers.

Here are some 4K videos - I have so much film it could almost be called "Forbidden Peak - the real-time experience." If anyone has time on their hands and is so inclined, one of these videos captures the glorious moment when I take a leak while forgetting that the camera is running. WARNING: lots of (mild) shaky-cam

PLAYLIST: West Ridge of Forbidden Peak

More or less what 100% of the ascent looks like:

Approaching the summit:

 

[nakedfrog]

More or less what 100% of the ascent looks like:

I think I'll take a pass on that and stick with ones I can just walk up
Other than Rainier, I mean, and probably only gonna do that once.

 

[skyking]

Hey Ned! you got out here and got away again without stopping for a beverage
Thanks for posting up what I can not do.
I´m sure I looked at that from the plane a time or two.
EDIT: Yes, just west of the end of Lake Chelan.

 

[NuclearNed]

Hey Ned! you got out here and got away again without stopping for a beverage
Thanks for posting up what I can not do.
I´m sure I looked at that from the plane a time or two.
EDIT: Yes, just west of the end of Lake Chelan.

Yeah - I'd like to have met up with you & a few other friends. Heck, one of my closest climbing buddies was in the area & we had to turn him down for lack of time. We had the better part of only 1 free day between the 2 climbs... and it was (mostly) a rest day. Next time, I promise!

Coincidentally, as I was standing on the summit of Baker, a small private plane kept circling around the summit. Was that you? (lol)

 

[skyking]

No, that would be rude. Only a tool would circle a peak.
I have flown through there and it looks spectacular and gnarly and all that. Then you post up the NOPE videos. It does not look like the same place.
I´ll be retired soon enough and I can meet up when you get up here again.

 

[dainthomas]

I thought walking up Cascade Pass was bad enough!

Cool vid though.

 

[pete6032]

How much does something like this cost? Do you bring your own gear?

 

[NuclearNed]

How much does something like this cost? Do you bring your own gear?

The guide cost me and my buddy $1400 each. The gear is a mix. Personal gear (harness, helmet, carabiners, slings, atc's, etc.) was my own, ropes, cams, and other group gear belonged to the guide. There are gear shops in the area where you can rent a lot of the stuff you need if you're lacking something.

 

[NuclearNed]

Here's the guide service we chose - and the page for this specific climb. This guide service was highly recommended by a guide I used previously in Wyoming. We got a guide named Zack McGill, and he was great.

https://cascademountainascents.com/trips/west-ridge-of-forbidden/

 

[pete6032]

I would love to do something like this but nobody else in my family or friend group is into this kind of stuff. How old are you and how physically fit do you need to be?

 

[nakedfrog]

Apparently it's one of WA's 100 steepest peaks. Looks like 5500' in elevation gain according to alltrails? With gear, I'd guess you want to be pretty fit.

 

[olds]

Makes me dizzy just watching the video. Can't imagine being there.

 

[SteveGrabowski]

Wish I had the upper body strength for technical climbing. I top out at being able to handle short stretches of Class 4. Amazing footage.

 

[NuclearNed]

I would love to do something like this but nobody else in my family or friend group is into this kind of stuff. How old are you and how physically fit do you need to be?

I'm 53 and much fitter than most people half my age (seriously, not meant to be a brag). For this particular climb, you need to be in great shape. If you aren't in great shape, then I still totally think you should try climbing - but something that fits your abilities a little closer. God made mountains for every fitness level and body shape. For example, Mt. Baker is an excellent mountain that would be great for folks who might not live in the gym. Way back in 2007, I started out climbing easier peaks, and built up to where I am today. Seriously - give climbing a shot.

That said, the fitter you are, the easier it is to enjoy the experience.

 

[NuclearNed]

Wish I had the upper body strength for technical climbing. I top out at being able to handle short stretches of Class 4. Amazing footage.

Well... technical climbing is all about the legs, not the upper body. If you are wearing out your upper body during climbing, you may need to learn better technique. A good instructor at the climbing gym might be able to help.

 

[NuclearNed]

Apparently it's one of WA's 100 steepest peaks. Looks like 5500' in elevation gain according to alltrails? With gear, I'd guess you want to be pretty fit.

Elevation gain sounds about right. Also check out summitpost - they're good to have lots of details like that

 

[NuclearNed]

Makes me dizzy just watching the video. Can't imagine being there.

So when I was younger I had a severe fear of heights. Through climbing I think I can say that I've conquered it. It's still there - but it's in the background & doesn't really bother me anymore. Like I told my wife, this climb was 20% pure terror, 80% pure joy. Another way of looking at it is that if a climb like FP doesn't scare you some, then you aren't taking it seriously enough.

 

[lxskllr]

Anyone interested in climbing might want to look into tree climbing. Not nearly as technical, but more accessible for most, and easy to start slow. Probably safer too. You can make it as complicated as you like.

Piped

An alternative privacy-friendly YouTube frontend which is efficient by design.

piped.video

 

[nakedfrog]

Elevation gain sounds about right. Also check out summitpost - they're good to have lots of details like that

My go-to is actually wta.org, but they didn't have the specifics for this one
It's WA-specific though, and I've got enough mountains here that I don't plan to go somewhere else just to climb one
Now, if I'm already somewhere else, and there happens to be a mountain there... maybe.

 

[skyking]

My go-to is actually wta.org, but they didn't have the specifics for this one
It's WA-specific though, and I've got enough mountains here that I don't plan to go somewhere else just to climb one
Now, if I'm already somewhere else, and there happens to be a mountain there... maybe.

you made the right move for sure.

 

[NuclearNed]

I got the rest of my Forbidden Peak videos uploaded to YouTube last night. I'll probably try to upload some Mt Baker videos tonight, but they aren't nearly as good... I had angled my GoPro so that it would be really good for rock climbing, but that same angle isn't nearly as good for alpine climbing. The end result is that most of my Baker videos are nothing but the snow at my feet.

I have a bunch of still photos I need to post somewhere, but I'm out of space on Google. Anyone have any recommendations for free photo hosting?

 

[skyking]

postimage
I use the crap out of it, and you can embed the photos easily here.

 

[nakedfrog]

you made the right move for sure.

Yep, retirement may involve sticking a map of the Olympics on the wall and putting pins in summits after I climb them