Noob to liquid cooling, looking for some help

[computerbuildin]

What do you guys think about these 2?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ofile_Radiator_Rev_2.html?tl=g30c95s159#blank
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8...Radiator_-_MCR120-QP.html?tl=g30c95s159#blank
Also im just going to use a single fan. A Delta one to be specific. Which is going be some pretty high airflow. Yes I know I know that fan is the loudest one out there (probably) but it's worth it. But if you guys found me a fan with similar airflow that quieter, im all for it.

 

[BrightCandle]

A 13C water delta means at full load the water temperature will have risen by 13C over ambient. If you have an ambient of 45C then the water will be at 58C. But this isn't the temperature of the CPU. The water block isn't a perfect conductor of heat, neither is the CPU itself. Its most likely the CPU will be another 20-30C above the water temperature depending on the block you get.

We track water delta because it tells us when a loop is good enough. High end air is typically around the 15C delta mark equivalent, so once you reach that air would be better at load and always is at idle. 10C is thus the point where it's considered a water loop is worth having.

 

[aigomorla]

Its a 2500k, the thermal output when fully overclocked is going to be around 150W. A single 120mm thick radiator can cool that to around a water delta of 13C. If he went for a 240mm radiator that drop it down to around 6C but 360mm would only be around 4C. There are serious diminishing returns to more radiators and its simply not worth overdoing it.

A dual radiator is certainly worth it if you are building a loop but an AIO can provide that (H100) at less cost. The 2500k just doesn't have a high enough thermal output to really benefit from water, air coolers are much more efficient up to about 150W than water coolers are, because they exchange the heat directly with the air. Its only once you start pushing 180W that it becomes clear water is beneficial, and its also the point where dual radiators are a necessity.

Your absolutely correct if were looking at the same fans

the 120x3 @ 700rpms will equal a 120x1 with 1800 rpms..
Thats a HUGH difference in noise..

A 13C water delta means at full load the water temperature will have risen by 13C over ambient. If you have an ambient of 45C then the water will be at 58C. But this isn't the temperature of the CPU. The water block isn't a perfect conductor of heat, neither is the CPU itself. Its most likely the CPU will be another 20-30C above the water temperature depending on the block you get.

I dont think he will see a 13C water delta on a cpu only loop with a 120x2.

Also the waterblock is a lot.
Depending on the waterblock and how his loop is setup, he can get very nice results.
Your also missing the fact that water traveling at 1gpm (flow) => 300W for every 1C.
The lower you go on flow.. the higher temperature water will become which will increase the equilibrium in your overall system.

I cant stress enough how important this 1gpm flow number is... as its the fastest way to see an improvement until you reached that 1gpm mark.

Also yes u get very bad dimished returns as you approach ambient...
Where do AIO's fall?? less then .25gpm...

Im riding on almost pure ambient.. my water temp in cpu loop isnt even 1.5C over ambient.. however im running an original PA120.3 just for the cpu.


However u want to make sure all your lacking area's are at the edge dimished returns territory, because up to that DR point, you do see improvement.

 

[computerbuildin]

Simple question about my no reservoir loop here. Where would the best spot for my T connector in the loop be? I'd imagine at the top since ill be filling the loop there. If my T is at the top though, where is the best place to drain the loop? I could just take off a fitting off the pump (it will be the lowest point in the loop) and let it flow out into a bucket, that would be fine right?

 

[Agent11]

Put it before the pump, and I would make it a few feat long, but still able to tuck into the case out of the way. This way you can simply lower the tube into a bucket to drain, and you can fill without worry of splashing onto something sensitive.

While the system is still bleeding out air bubbles I would leave the radiator loose so that you can tip and shake it to dislodge any cornered air, and have the tube elevated higher than the other components so that the air has more chances to stick.