I have reseated it many time and I have try various method of applying the thermal compound. I also have try different thermal compound, the results are the same. I do have a fan blow at the open case and the motherboard is at 34c degree.
According to the Asus utility I am drawing 100amp at 1.35volt, that give me 135 watt. Base on all the review I have read about the Noctua, I was expecting lower temperature.
BonzaiDuck, I would love to have more data from you.
1. do I have a hot sandy?
2. nh-d14 is defected?
More revelations are falling on us all, so the data sharing here is valuable.
You say "ASUS Gen[e] Z" -- I know there is a Maximus board that also uses the Z68, but I'm guessing yours is the P8Z68[whatever -- all mostly the same]?
DO THIS: Instead of RealTemp, download the very latest HWMonitor off the CPUID web-site. I THINK the version is 1.8. Raise THAT software before you start your stress-tester.
RealTemp gave me a max-"highest-core" the other day of around 69C with IBT, High-Stress. Today I'm running Maximum Stress, same room-ambient, and instead of RealTemp -- HWMonitor (which reports voltage info consistent with ASUS' monitor). Suddenly, my highest temperature of the cores is 62C. That's with HT "OFF." Also, sad to say, I'm using VISTA-64 and you can check another thread for similar conversations on this topic (I just posted) -- Win 7 has an instruction-set enhancement for which IBT responds with higher thermals.
All this information is good. Before you fret over the temperatures at the higher clock-speeds, you'd want to know if the sw-monitoring can be trusted. Or whether your OS permits IBT to do its scorchiest.
Put this back for near-term or future reference, though. At this point, I rather doubt your Noctua is defective, and I even doubt (though have no way of knowing for sure at this point) that you "ate a hot one" with your 2600K purchase.
Again -- I can only say what I do know (as opposed to faith and belief):
The coolers from TR and Noctua --maybe Prolimatech but can't remember -- all use a convex-base design. They're also nickel-plated. Some here have said that grinding the base flat may "reduce effectiveness," while TR says the convexity "serves efficiency." But we'd been dealing with these coolers since the TRUE phenomenon in 2007 July. IT had a convex base. I've only seen improvement from two absolutely flat surfaces -- that's observation #1.
Observation #2: The nickel-plating on both the cooler and the processor has a higher thermal resistance than the copper it supposedly protects. See some other posts I've made on this, the reason they do the plating, etc. But (the observation . . ) grinding the nickel off each surface is worth a 3 to 5C improvement (per surface!). That is -- such is what I'm sure I observed two and three years ago.
Observation #3: Here and elsewhere, nobody seems convinced about choices of TIM when I or others say "Get the nano-diamond paste, or make your own." JOe Citarella at Overclockers.net has been researching and experimenting with this stuff per years. Did testing back in 07 with a $22,000 calorimeter setup, posted his "disclaimer" that he was going into business -- an outfit called "Innovation Cooling." Well, find out who makes "IC Diamond" thermal paste. In his case, his self-interest has nuthin' to do with the honesty of his promotion -- which is all based on thorough empirics, testing and fact. The tests prove it. I ran tests, with bar-graphs and circles and arrows on the backs of each one, and I proved it. It may only be worth 2C -- maybe 3C improvement, but it's a big grain of rice if all these things are additive.
HeatsinkFactory.com sells the IC-Diamond 7-carat tube for about $7, as does SidewinderComputers.com out of Chicago. Maybe that "liquid-metal" stuff is also good, but I think it's also conductive. Nothing about those diamond particles or their oil base will conduct anything. And diamond has about 10-times the thermal conductivity of Silver, and more over comparison with copper.
Also -- back to the ASUS board. Check again the setting that can add amperage to the processor for better OC'ing. If "Auto," try 10% instead, then either OC-Tuner or however -- get the "TPU" to reset the OC setting, but also -- only after some other stuff:
Get the spec voltage on your RAM, go to BIOS and set it to that voltage, leave the timings to auto or fix them at the RAM spec. Also, there's some good advice out there about how to sit the VCCIO or CPU_VTT, PLL and other voltages to safe values. Fix those. And try the ASUS setting for "mild power saving" on the DIGI+VRM settings.
Then see what it gives you for a speed close to or under the 4.7 you're attempting here. See what the VCORE (left on "Auto") is. You can tweak all this stuff and fine-tune later, but this board (Z68 from ASUS) seems really good for finding you a stable setting from which to start with that.
Just try it, the HWMonitor, etc and see what kind of thermals you get.
Also, as much as everyone is seeking that 5.0Ghz pie-in-the-sky, some of the hot-dawgs in attempting to get there are volting their CPU's to 1.45V just to START! For me, I'll recycle the "In Living Color" quote from Homey da Clown: "Homey don' play dat! Homey don' play!"