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Nitro RC car question

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Originally posted by: PowerMacG5
You might want to make sure the high speed needle is in the default position. Something could have happened from when it was made to knock it all out of whack. I've broken in several motors, and some will not come at the default setting, and it causes all sorts of oddities like you describe.
Click to expand...

I think with the half turn leaner it's running much better, good enough that there is a plume of smoke at operating temp under an throttle.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Interesting, next run started with the head at 82F. After wrapping it and not playing with the carb at all the engine ran at a nice 205F with a nice amount of smoke.
Click to expand...

cool.

continue heat cycling it (run above 200 a few minutes, cool down) until you get 25-30 minutes of actual run time on the motor.

you're done breaking it in and can begin tuning the carb for max power. always make sure you see a trail of blue smoke - if not you are WAY too lean. any cutting out/stalling/hesitation at wide open throttle = too lean.

Set the high speed needle first and then adjust low speed needle. You will then have to retune the high speed needle everyday you run it as temp/humidity/air density will change the way it runs.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: spidey07
definately too rich. Needs to get up to temp to really break-in. 200+

There's nothing wrong with giving it some good throttle or even full throttle for short bursts to get it up to temp. Don't just putter around. Run that sucker.

FrustratedUser has heat cycle well described.
Click to expand...

I shouldn't say putter, I was giving it 50-75% throttle, but it didn't seem to really move it. How much should I lean it out. I already turned it 1/2 leaner, that was before the 130F.

How long to cool between runs?
Click to expand...

Lean it until it runs clean, not blubbering rich.
Let it cool completely or a bit warmer than your body, You should be able to hold it comfortably.
 
god damn you guys and your talk of R/C cars.

i love my NMT, but havent run it in foreverness, and really want something bigger, and faster.

i dont have the easy use of pavement, so i would absolutely LOVE a 1/8th scale, but they are SOOOOOO expensive.

frustrateduser, reccomend me a 1/8th scale, radio (fm preferred) and an engine.

😀

keep it "lower cost"
 
btw, did towerhobbies cut back on the manufacturers they carry?

i thought they used to carry a LOT more than what they carry now.

where can i find Team Losi trucks?
 
Originally posted by: MIKEMIKE
god damn you guys and your talk of R/C cars.

i love my NMT, but havent run it in foreverness, and really want something bigger, and faster.

i dont have the easy use of pavement, so i would absolutely LOVE a 1/8th scale, but they are SOOOOOO expensive.

frustrateduser, reccomend me a 1/8th scale, radio (fm preferred) and an engine.

😀

keep it "lower cost"
Click to expand...

spektrum only dude. screw clearing frequencies.

 
Originally posted by: MIKEMIKE
god damn you guys and your talk of R/C cars.

i love my NMT, but havent run it in foreverness, and really want something bigger, and faster.

i dont have the easy use of pavement, so i would absolutely LOVE a 1/8th scale, but they are SOOOOOO expensive.

frustrateduser, reccomend me a 1/8th scale, radio (fm preferred) and an engine.

😀

keep it "lower cost"
Click to expand...

I'm not going to post any RTR kits but here we go.
Car:
OFNA Hyper 8 ~$400, great new car with great price. I think it comes with a pipe.

Radio:
Spectrum DX3 (2.4GHz) ~$250. One of the servos are good enough for throttle, scrap the other and get a Futaba 3005 ($35) for steering.
You can also get the JR XS3. It's basically the same radio but it's a 75MHz radio with Synthesized Tx and Rx

Engine:
So many choices but if you're new and don't want to spend an arm and a leg you should go with the OS 21RG-P for $110 (towerhobbies.com) or the Thunder Tiger PRO21B-R for the same price from thundertiger4u.com
Both are great choices and I've ran them both. The Thunder Tiger has slightly more power but the OS comes with a nice airfilter asembly so you'll be saving $20 - $30.
Both run good on 20% nitro. Use OS#8 plugs for the OS and McCoy#8 for the Thunder Tiger.

You will also need a strater box and battery for $80 - $100

This is a cheap race worthy setup. You could also opt for the Hyper 7 TQ kit which you can get for $220 from towerhobbies. It's THE best deal ever if you just want to get into 1/8 scale. (It's listed under On-Road cars, a mistake by tower) The Hyper 7 is a proven older design and parts are cheap and plentiful. I've tried it at the local track and it runs great. I'm tempted to pick one up just because it's cheap. I already got 3 cars (Kyosho MP7.5 Kanai III, MP777 SP1, MP777 SP2) so I can't really justify it.
😀😀

 
I hate Monster Trucks. They handle like sh1t and are hard to work on.

Ohh BTW. Can't wait until I can break-in my new RB C6BB race engine. :Q😀
 
Originally posted by: MIKEMIKE
btw, did towerhobbies cut back on the manufacturers they carry?

i thought they used to carry a LOT more than what they carry now.

where can i find Team Losi trucks?
Click to expand...

I don't like TowerHobbies, never have. I used http://www.stormerhobbies.com this time and they were priced well and I got everything quicker than my LHS could have gotten it to me
 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: spidey07
definately too rich. Needs to get up to temp to really break-in. 200+

There's nothing wrong with giving it some good throttle or even full throttle for short bursts to get it up to temp. Don't just putter around. Run that sucker.

FrustratedUser has heat cycle well described.
Click to expand...

I shouldn't say putter, I was giving it 50-75% throttle, but it didn't seem to really move it. How much should I lean it out. I already turned it 1/2 leaner, that was before the 130F.

How long to cool between runs?
Click to expand...

Lean it until it runs clean, not blubbering rich.
Let it cool completely or a bit warmer than your body, You should be able to hold it comfortably.
Click to expand...

It's still really rich, it sputters when I first get into the throttle and then takes off, so I'll keep doing 1/8 turns til it's nice.
 
Originally posted by: MIKEMIKE
god damn you guys and your talk of R/C cars.

i love my NMT, but havent run it in foreverness, and really want something bigger, and faster.

i dont have the easy use of pavement, so i would absolutely LOVE a 1/8th scale, but they are SOOOOOO expensive.

frustrateduser, reccomend me a 1/8th scale, radio (fm preferred) and an engine.

😀

keep it "lower cost"
Click to expand...

I have a RTR Ofna LD3 I picked up last summer from a local hobby shop. It has a 2 speed transmission and will hit 40mph easily. It's a car chassis and it's reallylow to the ground though so it needs a smooth surface and wide streets to really stretch it's legs. I paid $299 at my local hobby shop. I have about 5 different bodies for it too.
 
OK guys, she runs like a champ, but the temps seem really nigh now. I'm seeing 300F after a couple of tanks with the body on, but it seems to preform the best at this temp. There is a nice cloud of smoke as soon as I get off idle and I have the most power at this point. BUt from everything I have seen, 300F is insane. As soon as I noticed the temp I cut the engine and let it cool back down and richened it up, but then it started sputtering when I gave it some gas, like it was too rich and it was leaving oil marks on the cement from the exhaust.
 
Normally you want to keep the temperature between 200 - 230F. Always tune your engine starting with the HSN and then adjust the LSN. The LSN simply regulates the fule that flows from the main needle at low throttle settings.

With the HSN you are looking for a nice trail of smoke when running at WOT. Start closing the HSN in 1/8th turns each pass until it sounds right and you still see smoke.

With the LSN you are looking for a great jump off the line. Jump on the trigger. If the engine bogs down then dies the LSN is too rich. If the engine revs up for a second and then dies the LSN is too lean.

http://www.rcnitrotalk.com is a great place to be to talk about anything R/C.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
OK guys, she runs like a champ, but the temps seem really nigh now. I'm seeing 300F after a couple of tanks with the body on, but it seems to preform the best at this temp. There is a nice cloud of smoke as soon as I get off idle and I have the most power at this point. BUt from everything I have seen, 300F is insane. As soon as I noticed the temp I cut the engine and let it cool back down and richened it up, but then it started sputtering when I gave it some gas, like it was too rich and it was leaving oil marks on the cement from the exhaust.
Click to expand...

Lean the LSN and richen the HSN just a bit. Try 1 hours on both.
I have a feeling you got the HSN to lean to get good power during acceleration to compensate for a slightly rich LSN. (I can be wrong, I haven't heard or seen your car).

Another thing to try is to get a hotter plug. Running a plug that's too cold will rewquire you to run lean in order for it to keep glowing, resulting in higher temps.
You should always run the hottest plug you can get away with to get max power.
What plug are you using now? Hot? Cold?
 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
OK guys, she runs like a champ, but the temps seem really nigh now. I'm seeing 300F after a couple of tanks with the body on, but it seems to preform the best at this temp. There is a nice cloud of smoke as soon as I get off idle and I have the most power at this point. BUt from everything I have seen, 300F is insane. As soon as I noticed the temp I cut the engine and let it cool back down and richened it up, but then it started sputtering when I gave it some gas, like it was too rich and it was leaving oil marks on the cement from the exhaust.
Click to expand...

Lean the LSN and richen the HSN just a bit. Try 1 hours on both.
I have a feeling you got the HSN to lean to get good power during acceleration to compensate for a slightly rich LSN. (I can be wrong, I haven't heard or seen your car).

Another thing to try is to get a hotter plug. Running a plug that's too cold will rewquire you to run lean in order for it to keep glowing, resulting in higher temps.
You should always run the hottest plug you can get away with to get max power.
What plug are you using now? Hot? Cold?
Click to expand...

I'm still on the stock plug, which I believe is medium.

From the manual, it says that the stock setting for LSN is 1.5 turns from closed, which I assume means fully lean. I just checked and it was closer to 2.5 turns. I cut it back to 1.5 for now, it's too late to test it out, though. I also leaned out the HSN, which was about 7/8 turn richer than factory.
 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
High temps can also be caused by air leaks. The engine draws air from where it's not supposed to like backplate and carb.
Click to expand...

What could I use on it, RTV? I have blue and red.
 
OMG i totally forgot about my Landmax Super 8, 1/8 RC. Maybe i should fix it up and give it a little burn, although the engine has been idle for about 4 years now.

Here are some pics, minus the radio gear and body (which i'd rarely use anyway)


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0008.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0007.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0005.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0003.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0002.jpg

I always wanted to upgarde the engine, i think currently it's a 21 engine.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
High temps can also be caused by air leaks. The engine draws air from where it's not supposed to like backplate and carb.
Click to expand...

What could I use on it, RTV? I have blue and red.
Click to expand...

Use the high temp sealant you can buy in an autoparts store. Personally I have never had to seal my engines but a lot of people do and it doesn't hurt.

 
Originally posted by: RichUK
OMG i totally forgot about my Landmax Super 8, 1/8 RC. Maybe i should fix it up and give it a little burn, although the engine has been idle for about 4 years now.

Here are some pics, minus the radio gear and body (which i'd rarely use anyway)


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0008.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0007.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0005.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0003.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0002.jpg

I always wanted to upgarde the engine, i think currently it's a 21 engine.
Click to expand...

Nice car. I'm thinking about converting my Kanai III to a rally car. A .21 is all you need.
 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: RichUK
OMG i totally forgot about my Landmax Super 8, 1/8 RC. Maybe i should fix it up and give it a little burn, although the engine has been idle for about 4 years now.

Here are some pics, minus the radio gear and body (which i'd rarely use anyway)


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0008.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0007.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0005.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0003.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/RichUK/DSCF0002.jpg

I always wanted to upgarde the engine, i think currently it's a 21 engine.
Click to expand...

Nice car. I'm thinking about converting my Kanai III to a rally car. A .21 is all you need.
Click to expand...

I was going to buy a Kanai RC, but i never really took RC's on dirt tracks or on the grass. So i opted for Landmax as it was more suited for tarmac. I think the two RC?s have exactly the same chassis, except the Kanai has a wider wheel base IIRC, if that is correct then all you would need to do is change the wishbones and drive shafts.

Things I hate about my car. The suspension is absolutely awful, where as you use the uprated version on your Kanai I believe, also the brakes are utter crap, especially in the design. And the Kyosho .21 engine that is used on the Landmax Super 8 is pretty lame, compared to the power band and output of other .21 engines you can get.

shame really, because i burnt out the clutch, and lost a few pieces of the drive train, so i might just sell it for spares. Also the engine has been stagnant for around 4 years, so im not sure it would even turn over.

There was one 1/6 car that I really wanted to get once, I can?t quite remember the name, I think it was something like the RC 5, or something like that.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
My first casualty today. 🙁 Passenger universal dogbone has been shattered.
Click to expand...

i shattered numerous A-Arms on my NMT. and had some spectacular crashes, had a perfect jump go bad because of a treee branch.

and frustrtasted user

where can i find Kyosho 1/8th scales? i cant find them anywhere.

would love to see the price on a Kanai worlds still.
 
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