Newly built rig, won't boot

Emultra

Golden Member
Jul 6, 2002
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Just assembled the following:
Asus P8P67 EVO
i5 2500K
Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB
MSI Hawk 460 1GB
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 7200rpm
Coolermaster 690 II Advanced

And after pushing the power button for the first time, the CPU fan spun up for a second or so and then stopped, then I turned off the power. As far as I know, everything essential is connected to where it's supposed to go. The power icon LED on the mobo was showing red, is that good or bad?
 

mlc

Senior member
Jan 22, 2005
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is that the CPU LED or the RAM LED ?

In any case.. I would try clearing/resetting the CMOS via the jumper on the board first.. Unplug, remove the batter, set jumper to the other 2 pins for 10 sec or so.. then put back to original postion, replace battery, plug it in and try again....

DO you have all of the connectors from the PSU connected? There is the 24 pin. but also an 8pin connector that goes to the board....

Is your RAM in the correct slots? Try pulling it and reseating it . .to be sure it's connected properly....

Is your heatsink fan properly mounted.. if not , it would shut off due to thermal overload.. So make sure you applied the paste correctly, and the mount is solid, without overtightening it....
 

Emultra

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Jul 6, 2002
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The PSU's cables came in a separate bag. The wide one is connected to the board and to the PSU via its two cables (on the PSU end). Not sure what cable could be missing as the HDD, video card and CPU fan are all connected.

The RAM sticks are clicked into place in the slots recommended by the board manual. Not sure what the LED is supposed to indicate other than it's a power icon and it's down and right from the mobo battery.

I'm using the 2500K's stock cooler and I read that the pre-applied paste on its contact surface shouldn't be altered so I just popped it on. The CPU itself is properly seated (thought it took a lot of force but Google agrees on that one) and I think the fan/heatsink is, too. I'll check though.
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
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You should have 2 cables going to the motherboard.
1) 24 pin ATX connector
2) 4 or 8 pin ATX connector.

Most motherboards won't post w/o the 4/8 pin connector as that provides power to the CPU.

avh.jpg
 
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Emultra

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Jul 6, 2002
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Can't seem to find an 8-pin connector that fits. There is one but it's got the "rounded/square" pattern wrong. PSU is Corsair AX 750.
 

mlc

Senior member
Jan 22, 2005
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the atx cable probably consist of 2 4 pin cables, rather than 1 x 8 pin .. so doublecheck your package and see if there are 2 sets of 4pin atx
 

BoomerD

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Feb 26, 2006
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According to the Corsair website, you should have two of these:

eps-atx12v_8-4_pin.jpg


(although it MAY be two 4-pin connectors that connect together to make a single 8-pin.)
 

Emultra

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Jul 6, 2002
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About the 24pin cable, do I connect both the other ends to the PSU? That is, both the bigger and the smaller one.

When it comes to the CPU cable, the mobo wants something called EATX12V and the PSU supplies an EPS12V. Theres 2x4 pin cables but none of them fit.

Edit: how many pins is the power supply end of this cable supposed to have? I've managed to plug in a 2x4 one, and the other end is a 12 pin that also fits into the PSU. Go for the plunge and boot?
 
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BoomerD

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Feb 26, 2006
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About the 24pin cable, do I connect both the other ends to the PSU? That is, both the bigger and the smaller one.

When it comes to the CPU cable, the mobo wants something called EATX12V and the PSU supplies an EPS12V. Theres 2x4 pin cables but none of them fit.

Edit: how many pins is the power supply end of this cable supposed to have? I've managed to plug in a 2x4 one, and the other end is a 12 pin that also fits into the PSU. Go for the plunge and boot?

Your 24 pin connector may be built in a 20+4 configuration. Many are to allow them to be used with older boards that have 20 pin connectors. For your board, you want all 24 pins.
You SHOULD have the necessary cable for the ATX12V 2x2/2x4 connector. Those are standard for the Corsair PSUs. (may be called EPS 12V, but they should be the same connector)
 

Emultra

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Jul 6, 2002
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Yep, the mobo cable seems to fit perfectly. On the PSU end of that one, though, there's a similar but shorter connector that goes into the lower row of the PSU and another (auxiliary power) one that can be plugged in above.

The board end of it fits, as mentioned, but it's a snug fit and it doesn't seem splittable. Maybe I put the wrong end in? :p
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
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Yep, the mobo cable seems to fit perfectly. On the PSU end of that one, though, there's a similar but shorter connector that goes into the lower row of the PSU and another (auxiliary power) one that can be plugged in above.

The board end of it fits, as mentioned, but it's a snug fit and it doesn't seem splittable. Maybe I put the wrong end in? :p

ROFL! the connectors for the PSU end should all look about the same...except for the number of pins.
If your ATX cable has two connectors for the PSU end...definitely plug them both in.

From the JonnyGuru 850 review:
DSC05241.JPG
 

Emultra

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Jul 6, 2002
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Alright, tried to boot again but it would turn off. The CPU LED showed red for less than half a second.
 

mlc

Senior member
Jan 22, 2005
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so to be clear....as BoomerD instructed ... did you

1) connect the 24 pin connector to your mobo, and the other end to the PSU ?

2) connect the two 4 pin ATX connectors to the mobo, and both of the other ends to the PSU?

... and while we're at it.....that graphics card requires two 6-pin connectors from the psu as well... (PCI -ex)
 

Emultra

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Jul 6, 2002
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1) Yep
2) They are connected, and the other end is a single 12 pin, also connected.
Video card has two 6 pins, yes.

I have the EVO version (between Pro and Deluxe) and there's no CMOS jumper that I can find. There is a CMOS reset button back by the audio/video outlets though. Does the comp need power for that to work, and should the battery still be taken out when doing it?
 

mlc

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Jan 22, 2005
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i think this board may use a switch rather than a jumper to clear the cmos.... On the back of the case, look above the audio jacks, there should be a black button/switch there that you press to clear the cmos... REad the manual for the exact procedure...

Double check all of the LED's on the board. as this board has multiple LEDs to be used for diagnostics.. so make sure the RAM LED (top right) is not given an error condition either...
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
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i think this board may use a switch rather than a jumper to clear the cmos.... On the back of the case, look above the audio jacks, there should be a black button/switch there that you press to clear the cmos... REad the manual for the exact procedure...

Double check all of the LED's on the board. as this board has multiple LEDs to be used for diagnostics.. so make sure the RAM LED (top right) is not given an error condition either...

I downloaded the manual, and the there should be a small button-type switch on the rear I/O panel...just above the audio connectors for clearing the CMOS.

Wait...where have I heard that before? :confused: :whiste: :hmm:
 

Emultra

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Jul 6, 2002
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There is such a switch but it doesn't seem to do anything. Will try with power on and battery disconnected.

How many pins should the CPU power cord have on the PSU end? Current one has 12 (6 "columns" wide).

Edit: tried another one with 8 pins on the PSU end. No change, but I also removed the board battery and pushed the CMOS reset button. It still turned on for a second and then off, but it did it repeatedly until I turned the power off. During the short "boots" the CPU led is red, and two leds on the video card alternate between red and yellow every "boot".
 
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Numenorean

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Oct 26, 2008
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Take it all back and have someone build it for you.

Or look at some instructions for your PSU. It sounds really complex and difficult reading your description, but really there shouldn't be much to plugging your modular cables into the PSU correctly.
 

Emultra

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Jul 6, 2002
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Can't take it back, the parts were bought online (Sweden). Agreed about the cables, but I think it's all correct now. The CPU "fastener" took a lot of force to clamp shut, and there was an ominous crunching noise, but that seems par for the course for this combo, and others have reported things working well regardless.

Maybe I should take it to a shop.
 

Emultra

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Jul 6, 2002
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So if any parts are to be RMA'd, do I go for a tripple CPU/mobo/PSU to be sure or is there a way to narrow it down?
 

fire400

Diamond Member
Nov 21, 2005
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check paste and psu/mobo switches.

rebuild the system again. and if the same thing happens, rebuild it with a friend or someone you know to make sure all of the connectors are in properly.

after the 3rd build, strip each part, one by one, powering it on each time and listen to beeps or other noises.

if all else, you may have to test each part on a separate, working desktop to really make sure. also check the quality/compability lists of the parts from the manufacturer's website.

people don't believe this, but if you're not properly grounded, could of ruined perfectly good chips, not to mention.

get ready for RMA, last resort.
 

denis280

Diamond Member
Jan 16, 2011
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I would do like (fire400) Take it all appart.and slowly rebuilt it. and double check