- Sep 28, 2005
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So why would one decide to cool a computer with water instead of air?
1. Wanting to push the voltage on the cpu higher.
2. Overall better load temps.
3. Better Noise / Performance ratio.
Anyhow with that note on with my basic guide:
General Parts of a Water Cooling Loop
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The Waterblocks:
Waterblocks vary in application. One can find a waterblock for almost any cooling need inside a computer. Examples of waterblocks include:
CPU: There are two general classes in CPU waterblocks. The block will either have accelerators or be low restriction. Examples of each using current parts are:
Low Resriction: D-Tek Fusion (no nozzles)
Accelerator: EK Supreme, or D-Tek Fusion (with nozzles)
When deciding on which to pick, Pump must be factored. For high powered pumps or dual pump design, accelerators will perform better then low restrictions. On regular pumps, or quiet design, a low restriction will be the better investment.
GPU
These also come in two forms. Full featured block, and GPU only blocks. The benfit of a full featured block is the cooling of the ram. Full feature blocks however can not be upgraded to a different card. Full feature blocks also only come on the TOP feature card. Example of what i mean is, the only full feature block available are: ATI X1800/1900 class, Nvidia PCI-E only: 6800GT 7800/7900/7950/8800 . To my knowledge there is no full feature block for the 7600, X1600 and lower cards.
2 types of GPU Blocks Example
NorthBridge
RAM
Mosfet
Hard Drive
PSU
The average loop will consist of:
1. Pump
2. CPU block
3. GPU Block <--- not always there, but 2nd most common block next to CPU
4. Radiator
5. Reservoir or T-Line
How a Average Full loop Will look like
Reservoir / T-Line:
The area in which water is stored. T-Lines will also act as a Bleed line, Fill Line, Drain line.
T-Line is a T intersection in your loop. (Think of a T upside down) This is basically a 3 way bridge. The top bridge of the T allows you to, fill and bleed your system. It also hold extra on the top bridge incase of evaporation. Remember, even in a closed loop, you will undergo some evaporation.
T-line
Some differences one should note:
You usually put a Reservoir near or at the top of your loop. Loop order does not matter. You always put a T-line before a pump, and at the lowest possible height in your loop. Putting a T-Line at top will make things very difficult for you in draining, and putting a reservoir at the bottom will cause it to overflow if it?s not sealed.
Radiator:
This is where the heat is dumped out of the water. They come in various sizes for various needs.
The Hobbyist Radiator:
Example, Swiftech, Thermochill, HW Labs, Cooling Works
To my knowledge, these are the best you can get. Thermochill?s PA series is still ranked the radiator king. Be sure you plan space before you go out and purchase, as complications in mounting a 120x3 radiator will arise!
Some Examples on Rad sizes
Heater Cores:
Old fashion watercoolers, still prefer using these over the hobbyist products. If new to watercooling, I advise you pick up a hobbyist radiator over these, as they are more friendly to work with. The only benifit of using a heatercore will be on price. Back in the old days, heatercores, were preferred due to there superior construction. This is now however changed. As i have stated, the ranked king in radiator is infact a hobby style radiator. If you feel, that this route is still your preference, you will need to weld on barbs, and make custom shrouds for these units.
Example of a modded HeaterCore.
As one can see, there isnt much of a difference in construction. Heatercores will utilize near same design as hobbyists do. Once again, if you have no skills on welding, it is highly advised that you stick with a hobbyist style radiator.
Passive:
Example: Zalman Reserator, XSPC Passives
People ask are there passive style radiators? There are passive radiators on the market. They however wont perform near the level of the top two I mentioned. The reason is in design of each radiator. Passive radiators, are more like big reservoirs with fins. The water is allowed to sit in a bank and convection cools it. To my knowledge there are no such things as a copper passive radiator. All are made from aluminum. One should be VERY CAREFUL when using aluminum blocks/parts with copper in the same loop. Read up on Galvanic Corrosion in Wiki for more information.
Pump:
Example: Laing, Swiftech, DangerDen, AquaXtreme, IWAKI, Ehiem
The device that circulates water in your system. This component is vital in any watercooling loop. Think of Your heart!
They come either in DC <- plugs directly into PSU, or AC <- plugs into a wall socket. There are relays sold at many stores which allows you to turn an AC pump on and off with your computer. The best pump IWAKI RD30, is a DC pump however it requires its own PSU. DC pumps are the most prefered due to ease in installation, however their not the best!
Tubing:
I don?t think I need to explain this. But make sure you get proper diameter tubing for your fittings.
Note to add: You will need some form of clamps. I personally use 7/16 ID tubing so zip ties are sufficient. However, if you decide to bling it with 1/2 targon tubing, then it is recommended that you get steel worm drive clamps.
To my knowledge, zipties will work on 3/8ths and 1/4ths perfectly fine as well, however nylon clamps will work equally fine and are easier to handle.
Coolant:
It is recommended that if you use all cooper blocks, regular Distilled Water with minimal additives is the best. Distilled Water by nature is non conductive. So don?t be fooled on the expensive coolant because its ?non-conductive?. You can get the same by buying a 4.50 pentosin + 2.50 petratech nuke + 1.69 1 gallon arrowhead distilled, and have 1 gallon of coolant at less then what it would cost for 32 floz of the aftermarket stuff. Saving money is always good!
Coolant Package
Note: If you insist on getting an aftermarket coolant, i only recomend pc ice from promochill it has a unique blend of something that lubricates your pumps. I will sometimes swap from DI water to promochill each flush. Temps arent any different if i use DI water, or an aftermarket coolant. SO DONT BE FOOLED!! DO NOT GET FLUID XP! This has been reported by many users as well as ME personally to leave a waxy residue on your pipes and internals. Its not hard to get rid of, but its something one shouldn't have to do in between flushes!
If you want bling, you can buy UV additives, but, keep note it takes VERY LITTLE to get wanted effects, and the dye should be added per 2 drop bases into your loop.
Picking Parts
When picking parts, it is VITAL, that you try to keep the Barb and ID <- (inner diameter) of tubbing the SAME. Each time a reducer is used, you accomplished a reduction, in overall flow. The only time where restriction is good, is on the CPU. Exeptions to this would be if one used Swiftech's Y in junction with corsair's watercooling ram kit.
The preferred barb size is ½ inch. However if space is tight, and not a lot of cooling is needed, 3/8ths and 1/4ths is acceptable. Performance will however take a big impact as you drop diameters.
If you do get a waterkit that uses aluminum, make sure you STAY with that same company in block options. DO NOT shift from one company to the next, unless its XSPC -> Zalman, as they are both aluminum. Think Galvanic Corrosion again.
Okay so now I got my parts, what next?
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I like to call this the PRE-Installation phase. When setting up, a few basic things must be done before spending time installing these parts. The last thing one would want is a leak to happen after all the work was completed.
Cleaning:
Yes you must initially clean all your blocks and parts, new or old. Cleaning takes a fair amount of patience. Remember, the less you rush in setting up your loop, the less problem?s you?ll have with it.
<Side note: There are many guides out on the net that recomend the usage of vinegar. I highly advise against this because vinegar is an acid. There has been reported incidents of radiator leakage, and block discoloration. I highly advise you stay away from this.>
Link on the Effects of washing copper with Vinegar.
Update: On NEW Equiptment, all you need to do is rince the blocks with distilled water. Make sure the blocks are particle free.
On the Radiator, you need to heat the distilled water. The water does not need to be boiling, but it needs to be somewhere between that and hot. Heat the water to a boil, and let it sit for 2 min before you pour into the radiator.
Make sure you give the radiator a good shake, but be careful. The Radiator WILL GET HOT VERY QUICKLY with hot liquid inside it. After that give it a good rince with cold distilled and its good to go.
And no deionized is not distilled, and drinking water is not distilled. There is water labeled ?Distilled? that you need to purchase.
Initial Leak Testing:
I like to call this a mock loop. Basically I create a mini loop with all the blocks connected. A basic loop will consist of these parts in this order: Pump -> Radiator -> CPU -> T-line/Reservoir -> Pump. Keep note that when you position your loop, the component that requires the most cooling should be installed first.
Example of Loop Order:
CPU should always be first, and then GPU, and then NB. <-- for CPU intensive Comps, and CPU OCerz.
GPU first, then CPU, then NB <-- for gamers who push there Video Card more then CPU.
Only exception to this rule would be on the usage of dual rads. Dual Radiator, and Dual Loop layouts are discouraged for those new to watercooling. Not to mention, they are extremely expensive to setup.
How to Leak Test:
Once your loop is connected, you need to fill the system.
Mini Loop
Now the trick is flashing the on and off button on the PSU. Remember pumps should never be running DRY. You will damage the impeller head as well as the magnetic chamber. On a leak test, I?ll use a T-line as they are easier in managing. You basically want to fill the t-line, and flash the psu on. The t-line water level will drop, add water, repeat. Once all your parts has water running though, top the T-line off and plug it. Leave the loop running for at least 12-24 hours. It shouldn?t matter because your computer has not been taken apart, so 12-24 hours is fine. Remember you are testing the blocks, radiator, barbs, pumps, for leaks. If you see a leak, you must identify where, how(obviously a hole, but I mean how big), and why. If you cant figure out any one of those three, it usually means you cant fix it so it is highly recommended you return the product as defective (unless it was damaged by YOU), or purchase another one.
PSU Jump Started
Your main goal is to turn on the pumps so water can circulate. This is accomplished by hooking up your spare or old powersupply to the pump. You need to ?jump start? a PSU. This is done by simply putting a paper clip in 2 holes on the main rail of your PSU. This is accomplished by taking the main rail and look at it head on. You?ll see one green wire and about 5-10 black ones on around it. To switch on the PSU you must connect the green one with ANY of the black ones. Once you?ve done that, the switch on the back of the PSU will be a working ON and OFF switch (if your PSU has one). I use an old antec neo 450 as my leak test unit. However any PSU will do. Remember all one needs is 1.5A on average to power the pump.
Yay, I passed the leak test!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Great! Now your ready to install the components in your computer. As each manufacture has different mount methods, no real guide can be written here. Consult the instruction manual supplied with the block on mounting and installation. The order in which I usually go about is blocks on motherboard first, remount board, position pumps to help with sections where bends aren?t possible. You must plan your loop layout and order before you start tubing. Once order and tube length is decided, you must not change it once you tubed up 2 components. It will get VERY messy if you decide you want to change something.
If I use ½ ID components, my tubing of choice is masterkleer 7/16ID. My reason on this is because its first cheap, at ~.49 / feet, and the smaller diameter tubing is more friendly with bends, and since it tightly wraps around the barb, leak is less likely to happen. For clamps, standard Zip Ties is more then adequate. In my 1.5 yr using this method, I have YET to leak from a seal on tubing barb section. As I have stated I have Leaked once due to a faulty barb O ring seal. This has nothing to do with the tubing.
Notes: ½ tubing shouldn?t be a problem in installing. 7/16 can get messy. Here is some tips I use to make it easier. Get a thermos, and fill it with Hot water. Dip the tip of the tube and let it sit for 10 sec. You need to moisten the barb before you slide the tube over it. After 10 sec in hot water, the tube will get very soft and application will be a breeze.
Radiator Placement
A lot of questions have been asked on radiator placement. The best advice one can give on this is be creative. Some cases come with 120x2 fan mounts which can easily be turned into a radiator mounting. These are known loosly as "watercooling friendly" cases. UFO by Mountain Mods, can hold a 120x3 without modifications. In my two systems, my Quiet setup has the radaitor floor mounted on a CM Stacker T01. The Performance setup which has dual radiators has a front mounted 120x2 and a rear mounted 120x1. Other people have been very sucessful in top mounting a radiator as well. Silverstone's TJ-09 allows such feature, as well as there TJ-07. It is best to find an ideal location where lots of cold air can enter. Remember, the colder your radiator can get, the better cooling you will achieve.
Top Mounting Example. - Credit goes to tylerdustin2008
Wow im finally finished, can I fill and turn my computer on?
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Remember my statement, the more patient you are with a setting up, the less problems you?ll run. The answer to my above question is NO. You need to fill the system, YES, however you can not go live until you?ve done what?s called bleeding.
To Bleed a system means, your getting rid of all the AIR bubbles. Remember AIR is bad in a watercooling loop you dont want AIR trapped in your blocks or radiator. The air bubbles will greatly drop the performance of the block, and you will not achieve your max performance.
Notes on bleeding:
If your using a T-Line only, Bleeding can be a seriously time comsuming. I recomend and use a combo of both T-line and Reservoir. Bleeding with a Reservoir will literally be 50x faster than bleeding with T-Line alone. When you were leak testing on the micro loop, your loop should have already expelled most of the air. Smaller loop means less area for air bubbles to travel. In a computer, the average loop will be 3-5 feet in tubing! With ups and downs in loops, bleeding seriously takes forever without a reservoir, so I highly recommend the addition of one.
Bleeding is accomplished fairly easily. Just leave your loop running for 10 hours if your on T-line, and No I am not kidding about this time frame. Or 45 min on a reservoir. As you bleed, you'll notice your pumps getting quieter and quieter. This is a good sign!!. Once you see your tubes turn clear, you've completed your bleeding!
*some people complain about pump noise, thats because there system hasn't been properly bleed!*
Okay, I am done bleeding, now what?
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Now is where the fun begins. After bleeding, what I normally do is wrap tissue around my barbs on my blocks for a final check. The system can go on live now, and you can enjoy it. Inspect the tissue every 2 hours for wetness. If no wetness is found for 24 hours, your generally good to go. If you notice a wetness, you need to ask, where, how, why and attempt to fix it. Remember my statement above.
*Most likely if you leak tested initally the first time around, it wont leak the second time around unless u messed up on connecting a barb or a barb, or barb got loose from you connecting to it. Either way, the tissue should save you from a messy incident and remember Distilled Water is non-conductive. So if you do leak, turn your comp off, wipe dry, and re tube that section only. That way you don?t have to redo the entire loop area.*
Maintenance:Yes, like all computers, watercooling needs maintenance from time to time. Fluid levels should be checked every 24h for the first week, to be sure you don't have a micro leak anywhere (a small leak that evaps b4 a puddle can form). After the first week, fluid levels should be monitored on a 2 week, to 1 month basis. Remember, the tubing itself will allow fluid to evaporate slowly, so after 6-8 months, your bound to lose 1/8th of your coolant. Also Coolant flushes are recommended every 1-1.5yrs. I personally like to fill new coolant every 6 months. If you followed my guide, and installed both a reservoir + T-Line, reflushes shouldnt take longer then 15 min tops!
Radiator fins needs to be blown out with compressed air, every 2-3 months depending on the conditions of your room. If your room is dust free, and no carpet, this can be delayed even longer.
IF YOU ARE USING AN ACCELERATOR STYLE CPU BLOCK. AKA STORM or AquaXtreme's SP series waterblock, You will need to take apart your loop every 6-8months to inspect the impingment heads. These nozzles tend to get clogged if your water quality is poor, and can lead to a failed loop. If your new, stick with the D-tek Fusion or ApogeeGT, as these will perform fairly close with the Storm Rev.2 and have less maintenance involved.
Draining a System
There can not be a general guide on this part. The reason is due to the unique placement, and loop order of each case. Some people will use t-line only, while others will use a reservoir. I and some will use both!
Simple rule of law is drain from the lowest point in your loop. In most people cases a T-line.
Because of requests, i will describe HOW i DO it. This method should only be attempted if your loop has both res, and T-line.
FIRST IMPORTANT NOTE: TURN OFF YOUR COMPUTER AND UNPLUG THE MAIN RAIL! in case you forgot.
In most cases, Draining is accomplished though the T-line <--- inverting this usually leads to draining. If you use Reservoir only. Then all you would require is inverting the Reservoir emptying it, and then tilt the case so water thats stuck in the mid sections gets thrown back into the Res. Then repeat, and cut sections that are empty to aid in draining.
T-Line is by far the easiest if you have a reservoir. As all the coolant will be forced down by gravity.
My Example in Draining
If you followed my guide and placed both res. T-line
The best and quickest way to drain your loop is to empty out the T-line.
My Loop
If you take a look at the long pipe in the middle that touches my radiator with a brass cap. That is my T-line. Basically i first uncap my reservoir, then i invert my T-line and all the coolant flows down thanks to gravity. Once sections of the loop is empty i just cut at the highest top of my loop, in my loop that would be where Radiator -> CPU . Apply a little air though either loop side, and let the water drain even more.
If im just flushing my system out, then of course i cant cut any tubings. So i will just drain, and refill with DI water, drain again until water is clear. Then Refill coolant.
So As i have stated, i really cant write a general FAQ on draining. You see now why i cant tell people to do it one way if there loop is setup in another.
Best thing is Privite Message me with a PICTURE of your current loop. I can then advise you how to drain.
Just another note:
I purposely left out, Do not get company X because of Y reasons, and Company T is better then Company V, because this is a guide on how to setup a watercooling loop. Product performance and discussion should be kept separate, preferably on its own thread, or a Heat Sink Discussion. Also who knows, ThermalTake might come out with something to redeem themselves after so many failures. But as of now, i HIGHLY advise staying away from ThermalTake, XSPC, Koolance (yes i know there popular but you can get cheaper and better for less).
Watercooling Stores: On Request ive added a few stores i always shop at.
Jab-Tech <--- great fan and watercooling selection Owner: John.
Petra's Tech Shop <-- awesome custom kits, and parts also additives. Owner: Alex.
Performance PCS<-- Another Great Store. Owner: Hank.
D-Tek Customs <-- great CPU block Owner: Danny
Frozen CPU <-- definitely has everything. But watch out, its also the most expensive. Owner: ??? PM me if you know.
Quiet vs. Performance
Watercooling can give you silence or performance. The build for these two are different. Most people find a nice spot in the middle, where performance is gained by little additions on noise. However, even a dead quiet watercooling setup, IF DONE RIGHT, will out perform any air setup with near passive noise.
Care to take a Guess on which one was meant for quiet? and which one was meant for performance? I'll give u a hint, usually larger rads, are designed to clock fans slower.
My 2 Babies next to each other
My NAS Setup: On Request : Quiet Apex on watercooling.
Pump: Swiftech 655 (Laing D5)
CPU: ApogeeGT with custom mounts
GPU: DangerDen Maze 4
Radiator: BlackICE GTS 120x3
Reservoir: Swiftech Micro
Picture of NAS
Temps on Idle:
My Opty - Performance Setup with Dual Pump/Radiator
Pumps: Laing DDC-2 x 2
CPU: D-Tek Fusion
GPU: EddieK 7900 Full blocks x 2 in SLI
Radiators: Swiftech QP Series 120x2 + BlackICE GTS 120x1 : However, she is now on a Thermochill. This conversion was done POST picture taken.
NorthBridge: Swiftech MCW20
Reservoir: EddieK Reservoir
Picture of Opty
Ambients were around 72F - 73F. My Sig Profile!
Her 45 min Stable MAX OC - Ram is the Wall, not the CPU.
My E6600 L631B120
Pumps: Laing DDC-2 x 2
Cpu: ApogeeGTX - Bowed.
GPU: EddieK 7900 Full blocks x 2 in SLI
Radiators: ThermoChill PA120.2 + BlackICE GTS 120x1
NorthBridge: DangerDen Maze4 680i
SouthBridge: Swiftech MCW30
Her insides
1 Hour BurnIn, Ambients 62F-65F
My NAS, uses all low restriction parts, as well as a single D5 pump. This allows the system to be silenced down with usage of fan controls.
My MediaCenter, uses the D-Tek Fuzion, which is also a low restriction type. But i will be getting the nozzle accelerator from D-tek when it comes available. And yes my Mediacenter uses 2 pumps.
Notes on dual Radiators:
120x3 > 120x2 + 120x1 in performance. So unless you have somewhat an idea on what your connecting, its best to stay with a single large radiator style like most of the general public.
1. Wanting to push the voltage on the cpu higher.
2. Overall better load temps.
3. Better Noise / Performance ratio.
Anyhow with that note on with my basic guide:
General Parts of a Water Cooling Loop
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Waterblocks:
Waterblocks vary in application. One can find a waterblock for almost any cooling need inside a computer. Examples of waterblocks include:
CPU: There are two general classes in CPU waterblocks. The block will either have accelerators or be low restriction. Examples of each using current parts are:
Low Resriction: D-Tek Fusion (no nozzles)
Accelerator: EK Supreme, or D-Tek Fusion (with nozzles)
When deciding on which to pick, Pump must be factored. For high powered pumps or dual pump design, accelerators will perform better then low restrictions. On regular pumps, or quiet design, a low restriction will be the better investment.
GPU
These also come in two forms. Full featured block, and GPU only blocks. The benfit of a full featured block is the cooling of the ram. Full feature blocks however can not be upgraded to a different card. Full feature blocks also only come on the TOP feature card. Example of what i mean is, the only full feature block available are: ATI X1800/1900 class, Nvidia PCI-E only: 6800GT 7800/7900/7950/8800 . To my knowledge there is no full feature block for the 7600, X1600 and lower cards.
2 types of GPU Blocks Example
NorthBridge
RAM
Mosfet
Hard Drive
PSU
The average loop will consist of:
1. Pump
2. CPU block
3. GPU Block <--- not always there, but 2nd most common block next to CPU
4. Radiator
5. Reservoir or T-Line
How a Average Full loop Will look like
Reservoir / T-Line:
The area in which water is stored. T-Lines will also act as a Bleed line, Fill Line, Drain line.
T-Line is a T intersection in your loop. (Think of a T upside down) This is basically a 3 way bridge. The top bridge of the T allows you to, fill and bleed your system. It also hold extra on the top bridge incase of evaporation. Remember, even in a closed loop, you will undergo some evaporation.
T-line
Some differences one should note:
You usually put a Reservoir near or at the top of your loop. Loop order does not matter. You always put a T-line before a pump, and at the lowest possible height in your loop. Putting a T-Line at top will make things very difficult for you in draining, and putting a reservoir at the bottom will cause it to overflow if it?s not sealed.
Radiator:
This is where the heat is dumped out of the water. They come in various sizes for various needs.
The Hobbyist Radiator:
Example, Swiftech, Thermochill, HW Labs, Cooling Works
To my knowledge, these are the best you can get. Thermochill?s PA series is still ranked the radiator king. Be sure you plan space before you go out and purchase, as complications in mounting a 120x3 radiator will arise!
Some Examples on Rad sizes
Heater Cores:
Old fashion watercoolers, still prefer using these over the hobbyist products. If new to watercooling, I advise you pick up a hobbyist radiator over these, as they are more friendly to work with. The only benifit of using a heatercore will be on price. Back in the old days, heatercores, were preferred due to there superior construction. This is now however changed. As i have stated, the ranked king in radiator is infact a hobby style radiator. If you feel, that this route is still your preference, you will need to weld on barbs, and make custom shrouds for these units.
Example of a modded HeaterCore.
As one can see, there isnt much of a difference in construction. Heatercores will utilize near same design as hobbyists do. Once again, if you have no skills on welding, it is highly advised that you stick with a hobbyist style radiator.
Passive:
Example: Zalman Reserator, XSPC Passives
People ask are there passive style radiators? There are passive radiators on the market. They however wont perform near the level of the top two I mentioned. The reason is in design of each radiator. Passive radiators, are more like big reservoirs with fins. The water is allowed to sit in a bank and convection cools it. To my knowledge there are no such things as a copper passive radiator. All are made from aluminum. One should be VERY CAREFUL when using aluminum blocks/parts with copper in the same loop. Read up on Galvanic Corrosion in Wiki for more information.
Pump:
Example: Laing, Swiftech, DangerDen, AquaXtreme, IWAKI, Ehiem
The device that circulates water in your system. This component is vital in any watercooling loop. Think of Your heart!
They come either in DC <- plugs directly into PSU, or AC <- plugs into a wall socket. There are relays sold at many stores which allows you to turn an AC pump on and off with your computer. The best pump IWAKI RD30, is a DC pump however it requires its own PSU. DC pumps are the most prefered due to ease in installation, however their not the best!
Tubing:
I don?t think I need to explain this. But make sure you get proper diameter tubing for your fittings.
Note to add: You will need some form of clamps. I personally use 7/16 ID tubing so zip ties are sufficient. However, if you decide to bling it with 1/2 targon tubing, then it is recommended that you get steel worm drive clamps.
To my knowledge, zipties will work on 3/8ths and 1/4ths perfectly fine as well, however nylon clamps will work equally fine and are easier to handle.
Coolant:
It is recommended that if you use all cooper blocks, regular Distilled Water with minimal additives is the best. Distilled Water by nature is non conductive. So don?t be fooled on the expensive coolant because its ?non-conductive?. You can get the same by buying a 4.50 pentosin + 2.50 petratech nuke + 1.69 1 gallon arrowhead distilled, and have 1 gallon of coolant at less then what it would cost for 32 floz of the aftermarket stuff. Saving money is always good!
Coolant Package
Note: If you insist on getting an aftermarket coolant, i only recomend pc ice from promochill it has a unique blend of something that lubricates your pumps. I will sometimes swap from DI water to promochill each flush. Temps arent any different if i use DI water, or an aftermarket coolant. SO DONT BE FOOLED!! DO NOT GET FLUID XP! This has been reported by many users as well as ME personally to leave a waxy residue on your pipes and internals. Its not hard to get rid of, but its something one shouldn't have to do in between flushes!
If you want bling, you can buy UV additives, but, keep note it takes VERY LITTLE to get wanted effects, and the dye should be added per 2 drop bases into your loop.
Picking Parts
When picking parts, it is VITAL, that you try to keep the Barb and ID <- (inner diameter) of tubbing the SAME. Each time a reducer is used, you accomplished a reduction, in overall flow. The only time where restriction is good, is on the CPU. Exeptions to this would be if one used Swiftech's Y in junction with corsair's watercooling ram kit.
The preferred barb size is ½ inch. However if space is tight, and not a lot of cooling is needed, 3/8ths and 1/4ths is acceptable. Performance will however take a big impact as you drop diameters.
If you do get a waterkit that uses aluminum, make sure you STAY with that same company in block options. DO NOT shift from one company to the next, unless its XSPC -> Zalman, as they are both aluminum. Think Galvanic Corrosion again.
Okay so now I got my parts, what next?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I like to call this the PRE-Installation phase. When setting up, a few basic things must be done before spending time installing these parts. The last thing one would want is a leak to happen after all the work was completed.
Cleaning:
Yes you must initially clean all your blocks and parts, new or old. Cleaning takes a fair amount of patience. Remember, the less you rush in setting up your loop, the less problem?s you?ll have with it.
<Side note: There are many guides out on the net that recomend the usage of vinegar. I highly advise against this because vinegar is an acid. There has been reported incidents of radiator leakage, and block discoloration. I highly advise you stay away from this.>
Link on the Effects of washing copper with Vinegar.
Update: On NEW Equiptment, all you need to do is rince the blocks with distilled water. Make sure the blocks are particle free.
On the Radiator, you need to heat the distilled water. The water does not need to be boiling, but it needs to be somewhere between that and hot. Heat the water to a boil, and let it sit for 2 min before you pour into the radiator.
Make sure you give the radiator a good shake, but be careful. The Radiator WILL GET HOT VERY QUICKLY with hot liquid inside it. After that give it a good rince with cold distilled and its good to go.
And no deionized is not distilled, and drinking water is not distilled. There is water labeled ?Distilled? that you need to purchase.
Initial Leak Testing:
I like to call this a mock loop. Basically I create a mini loop with all the blocks connected. A basic loop will consist of these parts in this order: Pump -> Radiator -> CPU -> T-line/Reservoir -> Pump. Keep note that when you position your loop, the component that requires the most cooling should be installed first.
Example of Loop Order:
CPU should always be first, and then GPU, and then NB. <-- for CPU intensive Comps, and CPU OCerz.
GPU first, then CPU, then NB <-- for gamers who push there Video Card more then CPU.
Only exception to this rule would be on the usage of dual rads. Dual Radiator, and Dual Loop layouts are discouraged for those new to watercooling. Not to mention, they are extremely expensive to setup.
How to Leak Test:
Once your loop is connected, you need to fill the system.
Mini Loop
Now the trick is flashing the on and off button on the PSU. Remember pumps should never be running DRY. You will damage the impeller head as well as the magnetic chamber. On a leak test, I?ll use a T-line as they are easier in managing. You basically want to fill the t-line, and flash the psu on. The t-line water level will drop, add water, repeat. Once all your parts has water running though, top the T-line off and plug it. Leave the loop running for at least 12-24 hours. It shouldn?t matter because your computer has not been taken apart, so 12-24 hours is fine. Remember you are testing the blocks, radiator, barbs, pumps, for leaks. If you see a leak, you must identify where, how(obviously a hole, but I mean how big), and why. If you cant figure out any one of those three, it usually means you cant fix it so it is highly recommended you return the product as defective (unless it was damaged by YOU), or purchase another one.
PSU Jump Started
Your main goal is to turn on the pumps so water can circulate. This is accomplished by hooking up your spare or old powersupply to the pump. You need to ?jump start? a PSU. This is done by simply putting a paper clip in 2 holes on the main rail of your PSU. This is accomplished by taking the main rail and look at it head on. You?ll see one green wire and about 5-10 black ones on around it. To switch on the PSU you must connect the green one with ANY of the black ones. Once you?ve done that, the switch on the back of the PSU will be a working ON and OFF switch (if your PSU has one). I use an old antec neo 450 as my leak test unit. However any PSU will do. Remember all one needs is 1.5A on average to power the pump.
Yay, I passed the leak test!
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Great! Now your ready to install the components in your computer. As each manufacture has different mount methods, no real guide can be written here. Consult the instruction manual supplied with the block on mounting and installation. The order in which I usually go about is blocks on motherboard first, remount board, position pumps to help with sections where bends aren?t possible. You must plan your loop layout and order before you start tubing. Once order and tube length is decided, you must not change it once you tubed up 2 components. It will get VERY messy if you decide you want to change something.
If I use ½ ID components, my tubing of choice is masterkleer 7/16ID. My reason on this is because its first cheap, at ~.49 / feet, and the smaller diameter tubing is more friendly with bends, and since it tightly wraps around the barb, leak is less likely to happen. For clamps, standard Zip Ties is more then adequate. In my 1.5 yr using this method, I have YET to leak from a seal on tubing barb section. As I have stated I have Leaked once due to a faulty barb O ring seal. This has nothing to do with the tubing.
Notes: ½ tubing shouldn?t be a problem in installing. 7/16 can get messy. Here is some tips I use to make it easier. Get a thermos, and fill it with Hot water. Dip the tip of the tube and let it sit for 10 sec. You need to moisten the barb before you slide the tube over it. After 10 sec in hot water, the tube will get very soft and application will be a breeze.
Radiator Placement
A lot of questions have been asked on radiator placement. The best advice one can give on this is be creative. Some cases come with 120x2 fan mounts which can easily be turned into a radiator mounting. These are known loosly as "watercooling friendly" cases. UFO by Mountain Mods, can hold a 120x3 without modifications. In my two systems, my Quiet setup has the radaitor floor mounted on a CM Stacker T01. The Performance setup which has dual radiators has a front mounted 120x2 and a rear mounted 120x1. Other people have been very sucessful in top mounting a radiator as well. Silverstone's TJ-09 allows such feature, as well as there TJ-07. It is best to find an ideal location where lots of cold air can enter. Remember, the colder your radiator can get, the better cooling you will achieve.
Top Mounting Example. - Credit goes to tylerdustin2008
Wow im finally finished, can I fill and turn my computer on?
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Remember my statement, the more patient you are with a setting up, the less problems you?ll run. The answer to my above question is NO. You need to fill the system, YES, however you can not go live until you?ve done what?s called bleeding.
To Bleed a system means, your getting rid of all the AIR bubbles. Remember AIR is bad in a watercooling loop you dont want AIR trapped in your blocks or radiator. The air bubbles will greatly drop the performance of the block, and you will not achieve your max performance.
Notes on bleeding:
If your using a T-Line only, Bleeding can be a seriously time comsuming. I recomend and use a combo of both T-line and Reservoir. Bleeding with a Reservoir will literally be 50x faster than bleeding with T-Line alone. When you were leak testing on the micro loop, your loop should have already expelled most of the air. Smaller loop means less area for air bubbles to travel. In a computer, the average loop will be 3-5 feet in tubing! With ups and downs in loops, bleeding seriously takes forever without a reservoir, so I highly recommend the addition of one.
Bleeding is accomplished fairly easily. Just leave your loop running for 10 hours if your on T-line, and No I am not kidding about this time frame. Or 45 min on a reservoir. As you bleed, you'll notice your pumps getting quieter and quieter. This is a good sign!!. Once you see your tubes turn clear, you've completed your bleeding!
*some people complain about pump noise, thats because there system hasn't been properly bleed!*
Okay, I am done bleeding, now what?
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Now is where the fun begins. After bleeding, what I normally do is wrap tissue around my barbs on my blocks for a final check. The system can go on live now, and you can enjoy it. Inspect the tissue every 2 hours for wetness. If no wetness is found for 24 hours, your generally good to go. If you notice a wetness, you need to ask, where, how, why and attempt to fix it. Remember my statement above.
*Most likely if you leak tested initally the first time around, it wont leak the second time around unless u messed up on connecting a barb or a barb, or barb got loose from you connecting to it. Either way, the tissue should save you from a messy incident and remember Distilled Water is non-conductive. So if you do leak, turn your comp off, wipe dry, and re tube that section only. That way you don?t have to redo the entire loop area.*
Maintenance:Yes, like all computers, watercooling needs maintenance from time to time. Fluid levels should be checked every 24h for the first week, to be sure you don't have a micro leak anywhere (a small leak that evaps b4 a puddle can form). After the first week, fluid levels should be monitored on a 2 week, to 1 month basis. Remember, the tubing itself will allow fluid to evaporate slowly, so after 6-8 months, your bound to lose 1/8th of your coolant. Also Coolant flushes are recommended every 1-1.5yrs. I personally like to fill new coolant every 6 months. If you followed my guide, and installed both a reservoir + T-Line, reflushes shouldnt take longer then 15 min tops!
Radiator fins needs to be blown out with compressed air, every 2-3 months depending on the conditions of your room. If your room is dust free, and no carpet, this can be delayed even longer.
IF YOU ARE USING AN ACCELERATOR STYLE CPU BLOCK. AKA STORM or AquaXtreme's SP series waterblock, You will need to take apart your loop every 6-8months to inspect the impingment heads. These nozzles tend to get clogged if your water quality is poor, and can lead to a failed loop. If your new, stick with the D-tek Fusion or ApogeeGT, as these will perform fairly close with the Storm Rev.2 and have less maintenance involved.
Draining a System
There can not be a general guide on this part. The reason is due to the unique placement, and loop order of each case. Some people will use t-line only, while others will use a reservoir. I and some will use both!
Simple rule of law is drain from the lowest point in your loop. In most people cases a T-line.
Because of requests, i will describe HOW i DO it. This method should only be attempted if your loop has both res, and T-line.
FIRST IMPORTANT NOTE: TURN OFF YOUR COMPUTER AND UNPLUG THE MAIN RAIL! in case you forgot.
In most cases, Draining is accomplished though the T-line <--- inverting this usually leads to draining. If you use Reservoir only. Then all you would require is inverting the Reservoir emptying it, and then tilt the case so water thats stuck in the mid sections gets thrown back into the Res. Then repeat, and cut sections that are empty to aid in draining.
T-Line is by far the easiest if you have a reservoir. As all the coolant will be forced down by gravity.
My Example in Draining
If you followed my guide and placed both res. T-line
The best and quickest way to drain your loop is to empty out the T-line.
My Loop
If you take a look at the long pipe in the middle that touches my radiator with a brass cap. That is my T-line. Basically i first uncap my reservoir, then i invert my T-line and all the coolant flows down thanks to gravity. Once sections of the loop is empty i just cut at the highest top of my loop, in my loop that would be where Radiator -> CPU . Apply a little air though either loop side, and let the water drain even more.
If im just flushing my system out, then of course i cant cut any tubings. So i will just drain, and refill with DI water, drain again until water is clear. Then Refill coolant.
So As i have stated, i really cant write a general FAQ on draining. You see now why i cant tell people to do it one way if there loop is setup in another.
Best thing is Privite Message me with a PICTURE of your current loop. I can then advise you how to drain.
Just another note:
I purposely left out, Do not get company X because of Y reasons, and Company T is better then Company V, because this is a guide on how to setup a watercooling loop. Product performance and discussion should be kept separate, preferably on its own thread, or a Heat Sink Discussion. Also who knows, ThermalTake might come out with something to redeem themselves after so many failures. But as of now, i HIGHLY advise staying away from ThermalTake, XSPC, Koolance (yes i know there popular but you can get cheaper and better for less).
Watercooling Stores: On Request ive added a few stores i always shop at.
Jab-Tech <--- great fan and watercooling selection Owner: John.
Petra's Tech Shop <-- awesome custom kits, and parts also additives. Owner: Alex.
Performance PCS<-- Another Great Store. Owner: Hank.
D-Tek Customs <-- great CPU block Owner: Danny
Frozen CPU <-- definitely has everything. But watch out, its also the most expensive. Owner: ??? PM me if you know.
Quiet vs. Performance
Watercooling can give you silence or performance. The build for these two are different. Most people find a nice spot in the middle, where performance is gained by little additions on noise. However, even a dead quiet watercooling setup, IF DONE RIGHT, will out perform any air setup with near passive noise.
Care to take a Guess on which one was meant for quiet? and which one was meant for performance? I'll give u a hint, usually larger rads, are designed to clock fans slower.
My 2 Babies next to each other
My NAS Setup: On Request : Quiet Apex on watercooling.
Pump: Swiftech 655 (Laing D5)
CPU: ApogeeGT with custom mounts
GPU: DangerDen Maze 4
Radiator: BlackICE GTS 120x3
Reservoir: Swiftech Micro
Picture of NAS
Temps on Idle:
My Opty - Performance Setup with Dual Pump/Radiator
Pumps: Laing DDC-2 x 2
CPU: D-Tek Fusion
GPU: EddieK 7900 Full blocks x 2 in SLI
Radiators: Swiftech QP Series 120x2 + BlackICE GTS 120x1 : However, she is now on a Thermochill. This conversion was done POST picture taken.
NorthBridge: Swiftech MCW20
Reservoir: EddieK Reservoir
Picture of Opty
Ambients were around 72F - 73F. My Sig Profile!
Her 45 min Stable MAX OC - Ram is the Wall, not the CPU.
My E6600 L631B120
Pumps: Laing DDC-2 x 2
Cpu: ApogeeGTX - Bowed.
GPU: EddieK 7900 Full blocks x 2 in SLI
Radiators: ThermoChill PA120.2 + BlackICE GTS 120x1
NorthBridge: DangerDen Maze4 680i
SouthBridge: Swiftech MCW30
Her insides
1 Hour BurnIn, Ambients 62F-65F
My NAS, uses all low restriction parts, as well as a single D5 pump. This allows the system to be silenced down with usage of fan controls.
My MediaCenter, uses the D-Tek Fuzion, which is also a low restriction type. But i will be getting the nozzle accelerator from D-tek when it comes available. And yes my Mediacenter uses 2 pumps.
Notes on dual Radiators:
120x3 > 120x2 + 120x1 in performance. So unless you have somewhat an idea on what your connecting, its best to stay with a single large radiator style like most of the general public.
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