New Tokina 100mm f/2.8 macro owner-help?

[jhansman]

Just got this lens and while the reviews are quite good, I'm having a bit of a time learning how to use it. My Nikkor lenses all behave similarly, but this lens comes with pretty slim documentation and is just different enough that I'm slow getting up to speed with it. I could use some help from those of you who use and know it. If anyone does, please chime in so I can post my questions. Thanks.

 

[elitejp]

I think most primes behave pretty similar. Why dont you post a few questions and maybe someone could help out.

 

[EOM]

Is there a specific thing you're trying to do and it's not behaving the way you want or expect?

Is this your first macro, or your first tokina?

 

[jhansman]

Both firsts (though I did rent their 11-16mm zoom for a trip to Utah some years back; also a very nice piece of glass). As for operating the lens, I get the clutch that switches between manual and auto focus.

What I'm a bit fuzzy on is the "Full/Limit" switch on the barrel. I assume the "limit" is for close up shooting to limit just how far out the lens will hunt in autofocus? This seems irrelevant, as everything I've read and watched tells me that most macro focusing is done either on a tripod, or if handheld, by simply moving the camera until focus is attained (which then requires a shutter speed above, say, 1/60 sec). The "full" setting then must be for using the lens at it's 100mm range for portraiture and such, yes? This is where the "documentation" that comes with the lens simply fails to inform.

Lastly, on my D7000, the lens will not autofocus unless the aperture ring (I cannot remember the last time I worked a lens with one of these) is set to the green "32' on the barrel. On any other setting, I get a the error messager "Fee" in the viewfinder (which, according to the user manual, means "the lens is not set to the minimum aperture" which is again a new one on me.) The subcommand dial on the camera will still change the aperture, but unless I bump the ISO up to 800+, I cannot get a decent hand held shutter speed at any aperture below f8. One of the attractions of this lens is that it goes to F32, which I imagine would be great for macro shooting. However, as far as I can tell, your could only approach this aperture on a tripod in almost any light, in which case ISO becomes less of a factor.

So, as you can see, I'm beginning to wonder if a) this lens can be used hand held for macro with an aperture that gives you decent DOF, and b) what the heck is the aperture ring for if the camera's autofocus can only work on one of the ring's settings. Thanks for any help you can lend. BTW, the images this lens has thus far produced have been very good, and I want to love it, but I'm taking baby steps to learn how.

Today I have the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to hold, play and photograph guitars from a local maker who gets upwards of $20K for his instruments. I do not want to come back with a bunch of crappy shots I might otherwise have avoided with more knowledge about this lens. Wish me luck!

 

[turtile]

The full/limit does what it says. Full allows the AF to focus for the entire focus range. You have to remember that macro lenses have a lot of throw for precise focus close up. That means that using the 'full' setting will greatly slow down focus speed.

To increase focus speed, there is the 'limit' setting which will move most of the focus range out of close up range for more normal shooting. Do not set it to limit if you do close-ups! (you should not be using AF for close-ups in the first place!)

Handheld, you'll need around 1/250 to 1/500 to get a sharp shot at 1:1. Focus stacking is used to get DOF. Stopping down to F32 will hurt image quality due to diffraction and it will require a strong flash set up.

The D7000 doesn't read the aperture from the lens like the higher end Nikons so you have to set it to max so the camera can control the lens's aperture.

 

[EOM]

Both firsts (though I did rent their 11-16mm zoom for a trip to Utah some years back; also a very nice piece of glass). As for operating the lens, I get the clutch that switches between manual and auto focus.

What I'm a bit fuzzy on is the "Full/Limit" switch on the barrel. I assume the "limit" is for close up shooting to limit just how far out the lens will hunt in autofocus? This seems irrelevant, as everything I've read and watched tells me that most macro focusing is done either on a tripod, or if handheld, by simply moving the camera until focus is attained (which then requires a shutter speed above, say, 1/60 sec). The "full" setting then must be for using the lens at it's 100mm range for portraiture and such, yes? This is where the "documentation" that comes with the lens simply fails to inform.

You're basically spot on. If you're using it as a "normal" 100mm lens, you don't want it to look in the macro range for autofocus.

Lastly, on my D7000, the lens will not autofocus unless the aperture ring (I cannot remember the last time I worked a lens with one of these) is set to the green "32' on the barrel. On any other setting, I get a the error messager "Fee" in the viewfinder (which, according to the user manual, means "the lens is not set to the minimum aperture" which is again a new one on me.) The subcommand dial on the camera will still change the aperture, but unless I bump the ISO up to 800+, I cannot get a decent hand held shutter speed at any aperture below f8. One of the attractions of this lens is that it goes to F32, which I imagine would be great for macro shooting. However, as far as I can tell, your could only approach this aperture on a tripod in almost any light, in which case ISO becomes less of a factor.

if you want to use the hand-controlled aperture ring instead of the command dial, use f6 in the custom settings menu to change it. You'll then avoid the "fee" error.

So, as you can see, I'm beginning to wonder if a) this lens can be used hand held for macro with an aperture that gives you decent DOF, and b) what the heck is the aperture ring for if the camera's autofocus can only work on one of the ring's settings. Thanks for any help you can lend. BTW, the images this lens has thus far produced have been very good, and I want to love it, but I'm taking baby steps to learn how.

Today I have the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to hold, play and photograph guitars from a local maker who gets upwards of $20K for his instruments. I do not want to come back with a bunch of crappy shots I might otherwise have avoided with more knowledge about this lens. Wish me luck!

 

[jhansman]

if you want to use the hand-controlled aperture ring instead of the command dial, use f6 in the custom settings menu to change it. You'll then avoid the "fee" error.

No, I'd much rather use the sub-command dial to control aperture (unless, of course, I'm shooting in aperture priority) so I reckon the aperture ring will stay on the green "32."

Handheld, you'll need around 1/250 to 1/500 to get a sharp shot at 1:1. Focus stacking is used to get DOF. Stopping down to F32 will hurt image quality due to diffraction and it will require a strong flash set up.

This makes sense. I use Zerene Stacker (nice piece of software) for just that purpose, so I'll be shooting wide open (or near it) to get enough light in to to get to those shutter speeds at ISOs that won't create noise.

I can see I have some practicing to do to learn how best to use this lens for acceptable results. Thanks to all for the info.