New PC build won't power on, mobo logo lit, nothing else working

Radioman970

Junior Member
May 4, 2019
10
0
6
Problem:
Newly built PC won't power on. Only activity, logo in the corner of motherboard cycles thru rainbow lighting when the rocker switch on back of psu is on. Nothing else, no fan movement, no other lights, nothing on the monitor screen. No sound whatsoever. I had the system speaker that came with the case installed correctly and there was no sound from it. I think the pc needs to be booting up before that makes any sound.

Notes:
Power supply unit and video card are both from my older system. Both worked before and are now working perfectly back in my old PC. It's not them unless there is some kind of compatibility issue. (see full descriptions of each component below)

Things I attempted:
-The power button on the front of this new case was getting stuck. (I'll first be returning this case partly for that reason, and many others actually) So I connected the reset button to the board where the power button would normally go. That had no effect. The pc didn't power on with it either. I tried this with no other panel connectors plugged in. This has me thinking it's probably not the case unless both switches are bad. Side note, I made sure the small triangle was plugged into the live connection on the board and the one without the triangle was plugged into the ground (to be clear, the set of connector rods in the bottom corner of the mobo as labeled for the front panel items is where I plugged it in). I did try it the other way around just in case, live on ground/ground on live. But nothing was changed. All plugs for the front panel items were clearly labeled (one good thing about this case). It is hard to see where they go on the mobo with my 50+ year old eyes so I checked that very carefully multiple times. It was correct without a doubt both with the original power bottom plug and the reset plug. Just didn't function in any way. And as stated above, the power button was getting stuck tight then would come unstuck and eventually get stuck again. These buttons are not made to last like the very old ones in my old Rosewill case.
-Next, I tried only having 1 stick of ram in using the suggested config in the manual, A2 with one stick. No effect. (note, the second stick is in B2 which installed)
-Finally, I removed all fans from the mobo, except for the cpu fan of course, and daisy-chained the removed ones directly to the psu. Nothing changed.

What I plan to do:
-Return case. Get better one.
-In the meantime, diagnose if this is the mobo, Cpu, both. Compatibility issue with something else. Just need to know what to return using all this knowledge listed.
-I'd rather buy a new case and a new 1000w psu and maybe even a new gpu (looking at 2060, vega 56...or what I'd rather do and wait on a niva late this year) I'll probably not replace my gpu since I'm pretty sure it should work fine with this mobo. Worst thing is having to move these parts around so much. My old system works and it's all I have, in other words. I'd rather not try to run the mobo outside a case since I need to be able to return the mobo if it's broken. I don't want any problems doing that with any of the parts. But if it's a must I'll consider it with careful instructions on how to do it properly. And what it might do differently.


Parts used (names are from their amazon listings):
Case

APEVIA X-Dreamer 4 ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case with 5 Fans
-was delivered by ups. Shipping box has a hole punched in top edge. didn't damage the case inside. not an issue. rest of box looks fine.
-this case doesn't quite look like the picture on amazon. Very cheesy, the side window with the fan looks like a hamster cage. Would love to have a fake hamster going round and round on that thing. It does have 5 fans including the large one. The temperature display on front looks interesting but my guess is it isn't as good as expected since there only seems to be one probe. Plastic pieces on the front push inward, like this thing is ready to fall apart. It'd be afraid to put my hds in the built-in hot swap bay. I have a Thermaltake BlacX for that anyway. I regret buying this case. Can't wait to send it back and get a different one.

Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix B450-F Gaming Motherboard
-I used the standoffs and screws that came with the case. Checked, double checked everything and it looked perfect inside the case. Everything plugged in correctly.

CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 2600X Processor with Wraith Spire Cooler
-the CPU was extremely easy to put in. All pins checked beforehand and were not bent. I had to remove some plastic rails from the mobo since the included cooler would go directly on the board. I stayed with the pre-installed compound on the cooler. The cooler has screws with springs that are a bit firm and scary to tighten. But after a little pressure I was able to get them locked in and tightened them in diagonal fashion until they were all tight but no overtight. Looked good.

RAM
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15
-locked in the slots fine. The manual says use A2 and B2. Did that. As stated above, when I tried it with just one I removed B2. No effect.

SSD
ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB 3D NAND NVMe Gen3x4 PCIe M.2 2280 Solid State Drive R/W 3500/3000MB/s SSD (ASX8200PNP-1TT-C)
-this is a blank ssd. I installed it in the first M.2 slot. Looked perfect, firmly in the slot. I have Windows 10 waiting on a flash to put on this drive.

Video card (bought from newegg in 2016)
Sapphire. R9 380x. uneventful install. although the power connections on the side were a tight fit next to that large fan on the case panel, slightly pushing on the plastic grating. I tested it beforehand and the fan turned without a problem. As said previously, this gpu is back in my old system and running fine.

PSU (actually bought from newegg in 2011)
CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready
-have never had a problem with this. The larger power cable was firmly in place in the board, checked several times to make sure. The smaller one used both pieces, on my older board it only needed one half of the plug. It was firm and looked good. The board was getting power for sure. It's 750w, seems like that should be enough to power this.

Monitor (bought about 10 years ago still works like a charm)
ASUS 24" LCD. connected using the DVI
-works perfectly back on my old pc. Only showed black on the new one.
 

Radioman970

Junior Member
May 4, 2019
10
0
6
Do a minimal install outside the box. One stick of ram and no hd.
Thank you.

I'll research how that's done. The weather is crap here so it might be tomorrow or next week.

Just to be sure.

I place the motherboard in the box it came in on the table.
Nothing plugged in except cpu/cooler/fan, 1 stick of ram in A2, power supply outside box as well with long and short plugs in the motherboard.
Touch the 2 connectors for power on switch with a flathead screwdriver.

This board/cpu doesn't have built-in video so I'll see nothing without a video card. If it powers up this will tell me the mobo and cpu are working. Now, should I touch the connectors again with the flathead to shut it off? Then next step is put the video card on and power up outside box again?
 

Radioman970

Junior Member
May 4, 2019
10
0
6
I contacted asus and they said the same thing.

Thanks. I'm going to work on it over the next few days using their instructions.
 

MagnusTheBrewer

IN MEMORIAM
Jun 19, 2004
24,135
1,594
126
Thank you.

I'll research how that's done. The weather is crap here so it might be tomorrow or next week.

Just to be sure.

I place the motherboard in the box it came in on the table.
Nothing plugged in except cpu/cooler/fan, 1 stick of ram in A2, power supply outside box as well with long and short plugs in the motherboard.
Touch the 2 connectors for power on switch with a flathead screwdriver.

This board/cpu doesn't have built-in video so I'll see nothing without a video card. If it powers up this will tell me the mobo and cpu are working. Now, should I touch the connectors again with the flathead to shut it off? Then next step is put the video card on and power up outside box again?
Yes, that is mostly correct. No need to take the power supply out of the case. You can turn it off with the switch on the power supply. Go ahead and include your gpu for the first attempt. Does your mb support your cpu or, does it need a bios flash?
 

Radioman970

Junior Member
May 4, 2019
10
0
6
Yes, that is mostly correct. No need to take the power supply out of the case. You can turn it off with the switch on the power supply. Go ahead and include your gpu for the first attempt. Does your mb support your cpu or, does it need a bios flash?
The asus tech said it should work as is.

okay. I'll use the gpu and monitor so I can see what's going on.

I touch that one pin that's for the power on switch with a screw driver and it will come on? then once i'm done just turn off the power supply.

The psu is in my older pc I'm using now. I'll have to remove it for safely. Also the gpu is in this one as well. I'm just worried about damaging the only working pc I have.
 

MagnusTheBrewer

IN MEMORIAM
Jun 19, 2004
24,135
1,594
126
The asus tech said it should work as is.

okay. I'll use the gpu and monitor so I can see what's going on.

I touch that one pin that's for the power on switch with a screw driver and it will come on? then once i'm done just turn off the power supply.

The psu is in my older pc I'm using now. I'll have to remove it for safely. Also the gpu is in this one as well. I'm just worried about damaging the only working pc I have.
There should be two pins for the power on just like the power switch connector. Some mb's orient the connector block horizontally but, most do it vertically. There's little danger to anything because there's no power flowing through the switch. Just a miniscule amount from the mb battery.
 

Radioman970

Junior Member
May 4, 2019
10
0
6
There should be two pins for the power on just like the power switch connector. Some mb's orient the connector block horizontally but, most do it vertically. There's little danger to anything because there's no power flowing through the switch. Just a miniscule amount from the mb battery.
thanks. I watched a few videos of people using the flathead screwdriver to turn it on. looks easy.

it's always suggested to put the motherboard on top of the box it came in to do these tests. i'm worried about scratching the box up, i may have to return it to amazon. do you think a regular cardboard sheet cut from a box would be alright to use instead? I'm getting ready for a future move and have lots of cardboard to use.
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
61,725
9,822
136
A regular cardboard box should be fine. I'm not an AMD guy, but your components LOOK fine. Have you verified the RAM is compatible with the board and CPU? IMO, ALWAYS buy RAM that's on the mobo's QVL list.
The only part I see that looks substandard is the case. Apevia is one of the brands that generally should just be avoided. I made the mistake of buying an Aspire (previous name of Apevia) case once. Poorly constructed with crappy materials and terrible wiring schematic.
 

Radioman970

Junior Member
May 4, 2019
10
0
6
I hear you. takes learning the hard way. I'm going to remove the mobo tomorrow for the test. it won't go back in that case. I'll do a amazon return and immediately order something better. a plain one that does the job.

the ram was suggested by amazon. where it says frequently bought together. ....just found that qvl! and it's listed as "Vengeance 550M550W "

Here is exactly what I bought

ram
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Veng...8WJT9FP6YH5&psc=1&refRID=3G4GP9RDH8WJT9FP6YH5

Motherboard
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKTZC4M/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


cpu
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B428V2L/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Radioman970

Junior Member
May 4, 2019
10
0
6
oh, I just remembered I have the boxes from my last 2 mobos where I can get at them. I don't care if I scratch one of those.
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
61,725
9,822
136
Looks good. Although I still use a dvd burner.

Yeah, I had to buy an external enclosure for a DVD burner when I got my new pre-built PC. I see optical drives going the way of floppy drives...soon, only die-hardsmwill still have them...even though there are much better alternatives available.
Old games and software still require them though...
 

Radioman970

Junior Member
May 4, 2019
10
0
6
Yeah, I had to buy an external enclosure for a DVD burner when I got my new pre-built PC. I see optical drives going the way of floppy drives...soon, only die-hardsmwill still have them...even though there are much better alternatives available.
Old games and software still require them though...
Now with gog.com old games aren't needing them either.

Also I have a huge movie disc collection. I'll never watch streaming movies and shows while the quality is cut back. Also, I make backup copies of stuff that goes out of print or when I think the disc might rot. I've had a few that did that, like bunches of The Simpsons, a disc of all in the family and one from Advs of Brisco county jr. Having to rebuy a lot. just a pain. if something out of print dies it would be depressing.

a guy on the cnet forum told me you have to hold down a reset button if you're using it in place of a power on button plugged into the board. not sure on that...usually you press reset it resets I think... maybe now. will try it though before the out of box set.
 
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deustroop

Golden Member
Dec 12, 2010
1,913
354
136
Unless I'm missing a step already taken, I'm not sure why you are not looking at the data - total system failure - and thinking that the mboard is the most likely perp ?

If it's a recent buy, you can return the board under warranty for a new one; IMHO that's the first step to problem solve this.
 
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Radioman970

Junior Member
May 4, 2019
10
0
6
I'm on the new one now!! up and running newly installed Windows 10. I still need to register windows.

Here's why it wouldn't boot. If I try to plug things into the power supply using the cables with white 4-pin plugs, like fans have, with the yellow/black wire adaptor supplied by Corsair, the ones with white 4-pin on one side and black 8 pin on the other, it won't power on at all. I was able to connect my dvd drive with the black flat plug to the psu directly. It's powered up and functioning normally. The sata hard drives from my old system should do the same. The white plugs are a problem for some reason....

I plugged all fans into the board, found that I can use the connections for pump as fan connections too. So all fans are running. all lights working. power on button on case does stick sometimes but you have to just tap it. reset works.

I did power it up out of box and was so happy when it came on. the jump start worked and all. such a great sight. I slowly installed things until I found it was the fans that were stopping the show.

it's very sluggish right now typing. windows did install radeon app but I'm not sure if it's the latest drivers I need.

will update later!
 

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