New Lian Li case with Foxconn HP mobo, wiretuck job?

[natto fire]

The last system I built from scratch was a S754 system and then used a netbook for a long time. I was in the process of building a sandy bridge system until the recall. Which happened the day after I got my motherboard. Shortly after, Buy.com had a deal on a decent HP system, Phenom X6, Radeon 5770, 8GB, 1.5TB.

I immediately hated the case and ordered a Lian Li P50 armor suit. Basically, I am still seeing pretty high temps, but not sure I trust the sensors on the motherboard, as the on-die diode reads decent.

I am wondering if someone can look at my wiring and explain areas that need improvement.
Lian Li wiring, 2 photos

I am really not liking the rats nest coming out of the PSU.

 

[Interitus]

I don't have any experience with the x6 CPU's, but if it's anything like most newer Intel quads and hexacores, it probably won't run near as cool as you might remember a socket 754 running. Especially on a stock cooler. What kind of temps are you seeing for diode?

As far as wire management goes, a few things I would do: (keep in mind i'm finicky about wiring)

1) Run the 4/8-pin CPU strand behind the board tray and have it drop down from the hole above the socket it plugs into (aesthetic mostly). It may not reach, though. If it doesn't, you can always buy an extension if it matters that much to you. I always have extensions for these nowadays because anything bigger than a mid-tower case and you're pretty much guaranteed it won't reach.

2) Right angle (90 degree) SATA data cables clean up the "arc" of those cables and generally make the HDD/Optical areas much cleaner. You can find them dirt cheap. (See links below) You can also buy 90 degree power connectors and mod your own power strands for all 90 degree connectors. It's a simple mod, and relatively cheap.

3) A lot of the "nest" out of the PSU can be avoided if you use splitters/adapters off one molex strand instead of running a ton of modular cables out of the PSU. Most low-power devices won't suffer at all from being daisy-chained off one molex lead. Just don't do it for higher power devices. Again here, 90 degree power connectors help a ton.

4) The power lead you have running to the optical drive would look a lot better if it approached the drive from the bottom IMO. Then just wrap the excess underneath the optical drive towards the front of the case before running the strand back to the PSU. Kinda hard to explain this, hope you get my drift here.

5) If they will reach, run the front panel USB/Audio/LED/Switch headers behind the board tray until you have to pass them out to the connectors.

Just a few things I would do here.

Here's a great place to get cables (90 degree SATA etc..)

http://www.monoprice.com/home/index.asp

And here's a link to the DIY 90-degree SATA power connectors

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17...tl=g51c391s649

Here's a pic of my rig that you can see how the 90's help. My case is also a Lian-Li/Lancool so the wire management holes are nearly the same. Gives you an idea what I'm talking about. Also notice for 2 Opticals, a fan controller, 4 hard drives, I only run 2 strands from the PSU that aren't built in for the board power.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41747615@N08/4375064907/sizes/l/in/set-72157623138957693/

Hope this helped 🙂

 

[Interitus]

One other thing I noticed as I went to close the window with your pics.

You don't have to use the oval holes. In some cases, simply wrapping around the right side edge of the board tray looks better if you can keep enough tension on the wires to make them hug the board tray. This can help a lot with the larger cables like the PCI-E power strands and the ATX 24-pin. Usually you can use the wire secure points on the back of the board tray to zip-tie these larger clusters and keep them tight enough to hug the right edge of the board tray.

For example, something I would try in your case would be to run the 24-pin ATX straight to the right of where it plugs in, between the two oval holes, and just wrap it around the board tray edge and behind the board tray.

Also, sometimes the thick rubber-type wrap on some cables can get stubborn when trying to manipulate them into symmetric bends. I frequently take my heat gun to them to shape them as I see fit. A hairdryer works well here too, just takes a bit longer as it won't reach the heat levels of a good heat gun.