New HTPC Build Help

[Kenny536]

I am building an HTPC for my parent's home. I have less than a week to research because I need to have it built and ready to go in two weeks. The budget is around 2500 but that is flexible. It's going to be used for watching tv, not gaming.

I am new to this stuff and I need help. I have built a PC before, but I still don't know a lot about this. I have been researching a bit lately, but it is hard to figure out where to begin. I am hoping you guys can ask my questions to narrow down what it is exactly that I want.

This is going to be from scratch, meaning I also need to purchase a TV as well.

The majority of the $ will be going toward the TV, which is going to be 55" at the very minimum. Should have specified that, sorry.

Basically, what the HTPC will be used for is:

-Netflix/Watching movies that we have downloaded/blueray movies
-Streaming youtube videos
-Webcam chatting
-Playing music
-Viewing family pictures

I have Dish network. The Dish already has DVR playback. That has nothing to do with the HTPC - that is just something separate, because I think it will be too much of a hassle to integrate satellite into the HTPC.

It will be HDMI. We do have an external hard drive, but I'm sure it won't be enough and we'll have to store things in the HTPC hard-drive, or if it gets too loud, upstairs on the desktop PC and then network it to the HTPC downstairs somehow.

I was going to start from here, but a lot of that stuff in the link is over my head. From what I gather, I should figure out the type of mobo, because that will determine the type of case (form factor). It's a shame that the most recent edition (holiday edition) - he is making you pay for

I'm the type of person that likes to research everything to death before purchasing, to ensure that I get the most bang for my buck. So I tend to stray away from generic cookie cutter build recommendations, especially if it is outdated. But I would still consider the various parts on an individual basis.

Anything would be appreciated including:

[*]links to guides for htpcs,
[*]links to good deals for tvs/pc parts,
[*]any advice/guidance

Thanks!

 

[fuzzymath10]

My desktop (sig) used to be my HTPC until I moved it to my bedroom because I hated gaming on the couch with a TV.

For an HTPC that your parents will use, the following are worth thinking about (my opinion)

This might be out of date, but I think Intels still have AMD with performance per watt. Something to think about instead of performance per dollar (I'm a bit intel biased but I think this is fair). Undervolt as much as you can at stock speeds rather than overclock with safe voltages. Stick with mainsteam parts (Intel Core, AMD Athlon/Phenom) rather than low-power ones since the power savings at that point is probably not worth it (it would be more important when you're not plugged in with a laptop)

Use as few moving parts as possible. You and I might be diligent at keeping our systems clean but most people will have dust bunnies accumulate. The point about undervolting will reduce heat from the CPU which will reduce the load on the CPU fan and potentially eliminate the need for a case fan. If you need a case fan, get decent fans like Noctuas or Scythe S-flexes (I have both) which are quieter vs typical ball bearing fans which can start out a bit louder and deteriorate more quickly as time goes on.

Also get a passively cooled video card so that dust buildup won't be as bad. You don't need much power for HTPC anyway. Under $100 you can get a Radeon 5570 or even 5670, and for more you can get a 5750 or GTS 450. It doesn't hurt too much to get faster if you can afford it if they ever decide to try a 3D game on it.

Get a boot SSD. It's unlikely that you'll need more than 30-40GB but 60-80 is pretty affordable. People like your parents will always wonder why things take forever to load or why they clicked something and nothing happened; this fixes that. Unless you keep close tabs, their system will start accumulating junk and an SSD will keep the increased load in check.

Case-wise you need to figure out what form factor is best. I have a slim micro-ATX. Unfortunately, this results in a nonstandard PSU profile which will be an issue with many smaller cases that aren't wide enough to hold a standard ATX psu. Also, they might only have room for 1-2 hard drives so if you plan on having storage being local for movies, music, etc. keep that in mind.

I would have suggested using only 2GB RAM if memory was still pricey, but it's dropped quite a bit lately so you may as well get 4GB.

Basically I prefer to treat HTPCs differently especially if it won't be your own. Design it to run smoothly and quietly for a fairly long time without much maintenance and using a fairly low amount of power.

 

[Kenny536]

Thanks for the tips. Here is some more information.

The majority of the $ will be going toward the TV, which is going to be 55" at the very minimum. Should have specified that, sorry.

Basically, what the HTPC will be used for is:

-Netflix/Watching movies that we have downloaded/blueray movies
-Streaming youtube videos
-Webcam chatting
-Playing music
-Viewing family pictures

I have Dish network. The Dish already has DVR playback. That has nothing to do with the HTPC - that is just something separate, because I think it will be too much of a hassle to integrate satellite into the HTPC.

It will be HDMI. We do have an external hard drive, but I'm sure it won't be enough and we'll have to store things in the HTPC hard-drive, or if it gets too loud, upstairs on the desktop PC and then network it to the HTPC downstairs somehow.

 

[mfenn]

My desktop (sig) used to be my HTPC until I moved it to my bedroom because I hated gaming on the couch with a TV.

For an HTPC that your parents will use, the following are worth thinking about (my opinion)

This might be out of date, but I think Intels still have AMD with performance per watt. Something to think about instead of performance per dollar (I'm a bit intel biased but I think this is fair). Undervolt as much as you can at stock speeds rather than overclock with safe voltages. Stick with mainsteam parts (Intel Core, AMD Athlon/Phenom) rather than low-power ones since the power savings at that point is probably not worth it (it would be more important when you're not plugged in with a laptop)

Use as few moving parts as possible. You and I might be diligent at keeping our systems clean but most people will have dust bunnies accumulate. The point about undervolting will reduce heat from the CPU which will reduce the load on the CPU fan and potentially eliminate the need for a case fan. If you need a case fan, get decent fans like Noctuas or Scythe S-flexes (I have both) which are quieter vs typical ball bearing fans which can start out a bit louder and deteriorate more quickly as time goes on.

Also get a passively cooled video card so that dust buildup won't be as bad. You don't need much power for HTPC anyway. Under $100 you can get a Radeon 5570 or even 5670, and for more you can get a 5750 or GTS 450. It doesn't hurt too much to get faster if you can afford it if they ever decide to try a 3D game on it.

Get a boot SSD. It's unlikely that you'll need more than 30-40GB but 60-80 is pretty affordable. People like your parents will always wonder why things take forever to load or why they clicked something and nothing happened; this fixes that. Unless you keep close tabs, their system will start accumulating junk and an SSD will keep the increased load in check.

Case-wise you need to figure out what form factor is best. I have a slim micro-ATX. Unfortunately, this results in a nonstandard PSU profile which will be an issue with many smaller cases that aren't wide enough to hold a standard ATX psu. Also, they might only have room for 1-2 hard drives so if you plan on having storage being local for movies, music, etc. keep that in mind.

I would have suggested using only 2GB RAM if memory was still pricey, but it's dropped quite a bit lately so you may as well get 4GB.

Basically I prefer to treat HTPCs differently especially if it won't be your own. Design it to run smoothly and quietly for a fairly long time without much maintenance and using a fairly low amount of power.

Great advice!

OP, it would be really helpful if you nailed down how much you want to spend on the PC part. For the tasks that you have listed, I think that $600 should be plenty, even with an OS.

EDIT: Do you need to have a large amount of local media storage?

Athlon II X2 260 + ASUS M4A88T-M combo $136 - the 880G IGP has the UVD2 unit, which means it will do hardware-accelerated decode of any Blu-Ray format.
G.Skill DDR3 1333 4GB $42
Mushkin Callisto Deluxe 60GB $130
Blu-ray combo drive $50
Seasonic 350W PSU $43
Silverstone HTPC Case $100
Windows 7 Home Premium $100

If you need a bigger local disk, just swap the SSD out for a Samsung F3 1TB or so.

 

[Slugbait]

You can pick up a P54G25 for $1400 at buy.com or B&H Photo. To go minimum 55" you either have to downgrade PQ to an S2 series (starting at $1300) or upgrade capabilities to a VT series (starting at $2600...so VT is out). So you're looking at about 1K or less to spend on the box.

Flash content: do not underestimate the CPU. Hulu programming displayed at full-screen with hardware acceleration turned ON is silky smooth on my primary HTPC, which has a C2D/EE. My secondary HTPC has an x2 4200+, and full-screen Hulu is painfully stuttery and jittery (there is some improvement with hardware acceleration turned OFF, but not great). Both boxes have 3 gigs, and I tested both with the same videocard (8600GTS/256). Since Flash is one of the primary uses, don't skimp on horsepower.

Small note to keep in mind: you will need an HDCP-capable video card to watch Blu-ray discs at 1080P.

You also have an option of OTA HD, for viewing/pausing/recording. I just purchased another Hauppauge 1250, and installed into my secondary HTPC. It works great on my primary, displays wonderfully on my Panny. Build an antenna, and get all that OTA HD goodness.

All three of my HTPCs has its own MCE remote. Your parents want this.

Personally, I would start out here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18816470#ATX%20System: Mid-Range System: Intel

But I would make a few mods...

I would go with the Asus board over MSI...I have had nothing but problems with MSI products over the years, and they are notorious for not honoring rebates.

I'd switch the video card to a GTX460, which can now be had for $129 AR.

I would not go with a Seagate drive, especially one that small...I'd go with a Samsung F3 1TB for $70. Resume from S3 Standby on Win7 is extraordinarily swift, so I seriously question buying an SSD for the OS, in addition to the storage drive.

There is no room in the case...so you want a modular PSU. The OCZ's 550W Fatal1ty is now $45 AR.

If you won't be burning, you can pick up a Samsung BD-ROM for $70 shipped.

Add $100 for the OS.

Quick math in my head sez you're right around $1000 at this point.

 

[Kenny536]

fuzzy - thanks a lot for the useful advice. I am not sure what you mean by a boot SSD? Do you mean for the hard drive, get a SSD as opposed to a HDD? I'm still confused on why you are recommending this. SSD is quieter and lower access time from what I am reading - is that why?

How much more expensive are passively cooled GPUs compared to actively cooled ones?

Is there a good, non-confusing guide where I can figure out which form factor is best? Basically, if I want multiple hard drives, I shouldn't get the micro ATX? I'm not sure how to decide.

I will also consider your other recommendations - After spending most of the budget on the TV, I'd want to keep this around 400$ or 500$.


mfenn - I specified my budget in this post (400-500$). Maybe 600 if you guys feel strongly about it. I already have a copy of win7 so that doesn't need to be accounted for. I assume I would need a lot of storage if they are going to put a bunch of their movies on there, right?


Slugbait - I'm not really sure what you are saying. What does PQ and S2 mean? VT? So you're saying spend a little extra on the CPU? How much extra? Is there some advantage to a 54" vs a 55"? The one you referenced, P54G25 , is a plasma. I thought LCDs were better.

Thanks for the video card tip, I'll be sure to buy one that is HDCP-capable.
I'm not sure what you mean with the OTA HD. Can't I just pause a youtube video by clicking "pause"? Are you referring to cable tv? If so, my parents have DISH, but I am not going to try and integrate that to the HTPC, that will just have to something separate that they have to switch sources for. Yes, I looked at that link and it gave me a headache . And the holiday edition, the latest one, you have to pay for.

You would go against fuzzy's recommendation of SSD and recommend an HDD? Would I always want a modular PSU or only for that particular case?

1000$?! How?


Thanks for all the valuable guidance so far everybody.

 

[Slugbait]

Slugbait - I'm not really sure what you are saying. What does PQ and S2 mean? VT?

PQ=picture quality. VT is the model series of the Panasonic televisions.

So you're saying spend a little extra on the CPU? How much extra?

Well, sorta, yes. How much more depends on the processor family and how much oomph you need.

Is there some advantage to a 54" vs a 55"?

No. Just that the largest panels for the G20/G25 series is 54"

The one you referenced, P54G25 , is a plasma. I thought LCDs were better.

That's sort of a myth. You can buy an LCD that has similar PQ to the G25, but for the same size, LCD will cost a lot more (one review I read on the P54G25 said "thousands"). One of the disadvantages of LCD is that panel makers tried to compete with plasma on black levels and introduced an anomaly called clouding...very annoying for most people. Another disadvantage of LCD is lag...and because there is no lag for phosphor-based televisions, plasma pwns LCD for PC gaming.

I'm not sure what you mean with the OTA HD. Can't I just pause a youtube video by clicking "pause"? Are you referring to cable tv?

OTA HD=over the air high definition. I only said this was an option. In some cases, OTA signals produce better PQ because they usually aren't compressed as much as what a service like cable or satellite will do.

You would go against fuzzy's recommendation of SSD and recommend an HDD?

SSD is great for boot times and loading times. If you utilize S3 sleep, most of what you've described for usage wouldn't benefit from an SSD.

Would I always want a modular PSU or only for that particular case?

Any HTPC case will benefit from a modular power supply. Instead of cramming extra, unused cables into timy spots, you simply remove the unused cables from the PSU.

1000$?! How?

Take the base price, swap certain components, add the additional components, swirl in your head until batter is smooth and buttery.

Yes, I looked at that link and it gave me a headache

It was only specific part numbers and their costs. Since it gave you a headache, I can assure you that you are in WAY over your head. Buy an internet appliance, you will be much happier.

 

[Kenny536]

Slugbait - what do you think of this tv?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16889005129
It is an 1080 LED-LCD 55" for 1400, free shipping. Would you recommend the P54G25 over this one? I don't want to use it for PC gaming.

As far as the CPU - could I not just buy a decent CPU and then offload some of the processing power to the GPU - is that feasible? I heard it may not work in Netflix though. What do you think?

I think I sort of understand what you mean by OTA now, but doesn't that assume that the DISH will be integrated to the HTPC? Or is that something I can do separately

My parents have DISH network - at first I was not going to bother integrating it. But I just want to be sure. Is it really a big hassle? I thought it was based on reading this.

http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=166854

Am I missing something? Do I not just need a tuner card and coax? Also, the DISH receiver is upstairs, and the HTPC will be downstairs, so that may be another problem right?

So here is what I am thinking for price range:

Mobo - ~$60 (most likely microATX)
CPU - ~$60 (maybe a dual core AMD?)
GPU - ~$80 (HDCP-capable, and maybe even passively cooled)
RAM - ~$40 (ddr3, 2gb is fine, 4 is overkill)
HDD - ~$70 (2TB!)
PSU - ~$?? (modular?)
Case - ~$??
Case Fan - Necessary??
Blu-Ray/DVD Player - ~??
Blue-ray software - will I need to buy this?
OS - Win7 Home 32 bit (I have the trial version)
Media center - XMBC or WMC (free)

TV - ~$1500 (55+", HDMI, 1080P)
Speakers - ~?? (surround wireless? Probably too expensive)
Remote - ~?? (MCE?)

How does that all look? Am I missing things? Wireless card? Do I need that?

I'm not sure what you mean by internet appliance. Are you making fun of me?! Sorry, that AVS guide by rene is great, it just seems too overwhelming for me with all the technical details. I want to learn about it, but it's all thrown at you at once.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Slugbait]

Slugbait - what do you think of this tv?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16889005129
It is an 1080 LED-LCD 55" for 1400, free shipping. Would you recommend the P54G25 over this one? I don't want to use it for PC gaming.

Doesn't matter if you want to use it for gaming or not. You want a trouble-free television with good picture quality. People at AVSForum complain about lip-sync problems on Blu-ray playback with that LG. Cnet doesn't like the PQ, either: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/lg-42le5500/4505-6482_7-34025179.html#ixzz18EPOtHtR. Search around, there are very good reasons the price is that low for a 55" LED-LCD.

Yes, I recommend the P54G25...it is vastly superior to that LG.

As far as the CPU - could I not just buy a decent CPU and then offload some of the processing power to the GPU - is that feasible? I heard it may not work in Netflix though. What do you think?

Perhaps. You could go for balance, which requires homework. Or you could go for a used, four-year-old 8600GTS off of craigslist and a monster proc. For me, my old C2D/EE still holds its ground on sheer horsepower. It's homework for you.

I think I sort of understand what you mean by OTA now, but doesn't that assume that the DISH will be integrated to the HTPC? Or is that something I can do separately

OTA=over the air. Think about what it was like in the old days when you listened to the radio in your dad's car...that's OTA.

My parents have DISH network - at first I was not going to bother integrating it. But I just want to be sure. Is it really a big hassle?

Huge hassle. Might not even work with all that DRM crapola...

I'm not sure what you mean by internet appliance. Are you making fun of me?!

Anyone on this board will tell you I'm quite obvious when I make fun of somebody. Internet appliances have been around for a while. My P54G25 can be considered a bare Internet appliance: it has a net tap, can be connected wirelessly, and Viera provides some Internet content. Another example (which may work wonders for your parents) is the WD TV Live appliance: http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digita.../dp/B002KKFP9Y

Seriously, when it comes to building an HTPC, you are definitely in over your head. Experiment on yourself before experimenting on your parents. Or, go buy an HTPC off the shelf...it'll cost a couple-hundred more than a DIY box, but it will save you lots of time and eliminate guaranteed grief.

 

[fuzzymath10]

You can get by without an SSD as per slugbait; for some reason I've been trained to shut down and cold boot so I hate it when the hard drive is hit with a ton of reading and you feel like as your PC starts up you can never do anything unless you wait like 5-10 minutes. If you avoid shutting down, everything gets kept in memory so you don't have the same issue. I also like having the hard drives spin down when idle (i.e. after 30-45min) but I can never get this to work if it's a boot drive which is why I use SSD for boot so that the hard drives aren't whirring 24/7. There are folks in both camps (leave on all the time vs spin down when possible)

I gave my parents a living room PC with an E7300 and ultra-crappy GMA 3100 (not even x3100 ) graphics and it handles 1080P from any source (BD, rips, flash/youtube) great. Note that BD generally works fine using VGA. Since just about any new CPU will be faster than an E7300, you should be fine. The trick is to not cut too many corners (e.g. if the Athlons are missing too much cache, maybe get a Phenom).

 

[0roo0roo]

how computer competent are your parents.
as almost polished htpc is now, it is not appliance like, when sh*t goes wrong its no fun for someone who just is used to shoving dvds into a player.

 

[Slugbait]

Note that BD generally works fine using VGA.

Except that you have to give up the benefit of having a 1080P television...and that would be the 1080P part...

 

[muskie32]

Perhaps a combo like this?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboB...t=Combo.549108

 

[aigomorla]

Basically its a Matx board with IGP.
Has 4 gigs of DDR2, and a QX9770 Processor.

You dont need a QX class, any processor over 2.0ghz will be enough for most htpc applications.

However i highly recomend u do get a processor faster then 2.0ghz.

When you decode H.264 and scale resolution, you will need a decient processor unless you can offload the codecs onto your gpu.

Also, you want the least amount of components possible.
So if the htpc box isnt a gaming machine, go IGP all the way.

The new clarkdales are pretty good in your scenario.

i3 530 + H55 + 4gigs of ram... shouldnt run you more then 250 for the complete core.

Except that you have to give up the benefit of having a 1080P television...and that would be the 1080P part...

+1...

how does one get 1080p (1920x1080) on a 640x480 native resolution?

We gonna watch the movie in sections?

 

[piasabird]

If you are going to use this device for TV you need to know what the source is and what the povider's policy is on how they deliver their product. Sometimes they use a card they put in a slot. If you use a card that does the same thing as a cable/satelite box then you need to know if you can lease an access card or whatever they are using.

I just watch movies off the Internet and play DVD's on my computer and export the output to my HDTV. You have to have a full HD (1080p) video card. I recommend a separate video Card with HDCP support (Suggest Radeon). If you want to use a blueray player you need a good video card. I question whether integrated Intel video is good enough. If you can get a wireless motherboard that might also be nice. That way you can use a wireless device to run your computer from the couch.

I have heard that the AMD motherboard have better integrated video than Intel. I dont really like AMD, but this is what I have seen at home theater sites. If you use your TV all the time with your computer, then maybe you can forget installing any descent speakers. You could go with a home theater sound system you connect to the TV. You could also opt for an External BlueRay/DVD player that connects to the TV. I have seen some high-and BlueRay players on sale this year with a retail discount.

 

[Slugbait]

...any processor over 2.0ghz will be enough for most htpc applications.

However i highly recomend u do get a processor faster then 2.0ghz.

My x2 4200+ is 2.2GHz. It's not powerful enough to play Hulu in full screen without stuttering (turning off Flash hardware acceleration improves, but does eliminate, stuttering). Perhaps because there is only 512 megs of L2 cache per core?

 

[mfenn]

mfenn - I specified my budget in this post (400-500$). Maybe 600 if you guys feel strongly about it. I already have a copy of win7 so that doesn't need to be accounted for. I assume I would need a lot of storage if they are going to put a bunch of their movies on there, right?

My config is right at $500 without OS. Since you need the HDD storage space, you can actually make it even cheaper by going with a 2TB drive instead of the SSD. Ideally you would have both, but you don't have the budget for it.

Regarding GPU acceleration for video decode, there is really no reason to get a card as hot and loud (and expensive) as the GTX 460. An IGP can do the basic functions just fine, and even a low-end card (Radeon 5550) can do all of the fancy post-processing. I'd recommend sticking with the IGP and using some of the savings from ditching the SSD do move up to an AMD tri-core.

 

[fuzzymath10]

Except that you have to give up the benefit of having a 1080P television...and that would be the 1080P part...

Oops...meant VGA as in D-sub analog connector running at 1920x1080, not actually 640x480

Unprotected HD content looks awesome through VGA, and I think so do 99.99% of Blu-rays. The only kink is that there is a scheme that reduces the resolution to 960x540 (halved dimensions) over analog connections like VGA or component but I don't think any discs actually do that...yet.

Anyway using HDCP with DVI/HDMI is much easier but I was just saying it's possible and it still looks great over analog.

 

[Slugbait]

Oops...meant VGA as in D-sub analog connector running at 1920x1080

AFAIK, you do not want to do that with any television. My P54G25 has a D-sub analog connector, and the TV won't properly display anything higher than 1366x768, with a maximum of 1280x1024.

Unprotected HD content looks awesome through VGA, and I think so do 99.99% of Blu-rays.

When running Blu-rays at far lower than 1080P, awesome is just personal opinion, heavily influenced by the display itself.

 

[piasabird]

Some deals at walmart offer a TV with a sound system/Blue Ray in a home theater package. Often the front speakers use wires and the rear are wireless or have a wireless controller. I am clueless when it comes to home theater.

There is a home theater forum, but it is kind of technical. If you have a large room a sound system might be nice. In a small or med sized room, if the TV sound is nice it may be just fine.

If you want to control the system remotely, a small wireless keyboard might be nice. Some people might also like having the computer in a component type case or a normal horizontal Desktop. Using a sound reducing or fanless video and powersupply is nice but it runs up the cost. I saw this little bitty controller called a candy wireless keyboard that was pretty small.

For goodness sake use a motherboard of video card with HDMI. Anything else is a trade-off. It is worth paying more. Otherwise you need an extra cable for the sound. You will probably get inferior sound as weall as inferior video. You could use the built in sound at stereo, 2.1,5.1,7.1, etc. Optical sound out is another possibility.

I currently am useing a DVI-D to HDMI adapter and a HDMI cable. Then I use a Stereo mini jack from my sound card that splits into stereo RCA cable. I also used a stereo splitter so I can get output to my computer speakers. You will be limited by the capability of the video on the computer using this method.

 

[Kenny536]

Thanks guys.

So my family decided they don't want anything less than a 60 inch TV.

Right now, the best deal I can find is this one: LG 60" 1080p 120Hz LCD HDTV

http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16889005166

This is a recent deal on Newegg - 1300 for the LD550. It was sold out last night but it looks like they restocked. It is relatively the same price as the PK550. Putting aside the plasma vs lcd discussion, it still seems like it is better than the PK550 (60 inch plasma). What do you guys think? Slugbait - would you disapprove of these LGs as well (PK550 and LD550)

Slugbait - I understand what you mean by OTA. I am just having a hard time relating it to this context. How would I go about playing OTA HD content?

0roo - my parents are not too computer competent.


Regarding HTPCS, I think it will be easier for me to decide on one thing at a time. So right now, I will focus on CPU and motherboard.

Based on what I want to do, please help me weigh the cost and benefits of the following:

Also, please feel free to suggest other options!

CPU OPTIONS:

- AMD Athlon II X2 240 (2.8Ghz) - $57
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103688

- AMD Athlon II X2 245 Regor 2.9GHz - $60
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103687

- AMD Athlon II X3 445 Rana 3.1GHz 3 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket AM3 95W Triple-Core Desktop Processor - $77
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103872

- AMD Phenom II X2 555 Black Edition 3.2GHz Socket AM3 80W Dual-Core - $90
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103846

I don't see any reason to go with the $57 when I can pay $3 more for the 2.9 Ghz. But is the triple core the best deal? Or is it even needed?

MOBO OPTIONS:

- MSI 740G Motherboard mATX AM3 - $50 (integrated ATI Radeon 2100)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130288

- GIGABYTE GA-MA785GM mATX - $70 (integrated ATI Radeon HD 4200)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128394
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131595

- ASRock 880GMH/USB3 Micro ATX - $82 - (integrated ATI Radeon HD 4250)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813157197

- GIGABYTE GA-880GM-UD2H AM3 AMD 880G Micro ATX - $90 (integrated ATI Radeon HD 4250)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128439

CPU/MOBO COMBO:

- ASUS M4A785-M Micro ATX: $65 (integrated ATI Radeon HD 4200)
- AMD Phenom II X3 Black Edition Heka 2.8 GHz Triple Core - $76
Combo Discount: -$15
Combo Price: $126
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboD...t=Combo.564800

- ASUS M4A88T-M AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard: $85 (integrated ATI Radeon HD 4250)
- AMD Athlon II X2 260 Regor 3.2GHz - $68
Combo Discount: -$17.00
Combo Price: $136
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboD...t=Combo.573213

- GIGABYTE GA-MA785 Micro ATX: $70 (integrated ATI Radeon HD 4200)
- AMD Phenom II X2 555 Black Edition Callisto 3.2 GHz Dual Core: $90
Combo Discount: -$15
Combo Price: $145
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboD...t=Combo.572323

HTPC COMBO:

$501
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboB...&SID=u00000687

OTHER COMBO:

$250
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboB...t=Combo.548019

What do you guys think?

 

[mfenn]

Since you are ditching the SSD, take my build above and swap in the Athlon II X3 450 + ASUS M4A88T-M combo ($145). You want the 4250 because it has the latest IGP and the third core will give more longevity for non-accelerated decoding.

 

[Slugbait]

Putting aside the plasma vs lcd discussion, it still seems like it is better than the PK550 (60 inch plasma). What do you guys think? Slugbait - would you disapprove of these LGs as well (PK550 and LD550)

Among comments from the AVS Forum official thread on the LD550: you'll see an occasional "frame drop", especially noticeable with an HTPC. You will be required to spend quite a bit of time calibrating it to get acceptable PQ. Off-axis viewing is typical old-school LCD...it's not an IPS panel, so it kinda sucks, and you want to be viewing directly from the front. With all the issues expanded to 60", you'll want to sit at a minimum of 15 feet away. Spend a day or two reading this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1271152&page=36

People at AVS Forum favorably compare the PK550 series against the G25 series.

One thread mentions how Consumer Reports dings LG considerably for double failure rate, so be sure to earmark a couple-hundred of your budget for the extended warranty.

Slugbait - I understand what you mean by OTA. I am just having a hard time relating it to this context. How would I go about playing OTA HD content?

Build this: http://blogs.consumerreports.org/electronics/2009/04/diy-antennas-build-your-own-dtv-antenna.html and then plug it into the TV, or into the tuner in your HTPC.

 

[piasabird]

It definitely is a good idea to size the Screen size of the TV for the room size. I have an older 1970 brick home and it tends to have smaller rooms. In a small room, it is a good idea to use a smaller screen. I purchased a 40" SAMSUNG LCD and I use it in a room that is about half the size of my Basement and it works just fine. I had to push the TV all the way back to the wall, because at first it seemed large. I was thinking maybe a 46" screen was called for and now I am glad I went smaller. I was also surprised how well the sound works for my room size. However, if you like to turn the TV up loud you may want some kind of speaker system.

 

[Kenny536]

Thanks guys!

So I think I have a pretty good grasp on what kind of CPU/Mobo to purchase.

We purchased a $1600 Sony - BRAVIA 60" Class / 1080p / 120Hz / LED-LCD HDTV - KDL60EX700 (DISPLAY MODEL) from Sam's Club - no tax.

Next thing I want to focus on is the speaker system, which I am a complete newbie at, but I have been researching a bit.

Budget max is $400-450ish - is there anything out there like this for that price that meets the below requirements?

Living Room - 17x20x17
Kitchen - 17x12x9
The wireless rear speakers in the kitchen will be 30 feet away from the TV.

Home theater surround sound system requirements:

- 5.1
- wireless rear speakers (or cheap enough for me to buy a wireless rear kit like Rocketfish for $100?)
- HDMI input
- AV Receiver (either dedicated or included in the blueray or DVD player)
- reasonably high wattage
- DTS-HD or TrueHD audio format (how important is this?)
- good cross over design and THD
- 14 guage speaker wire should be adequate (right?)

Anyone know anything that meets this criteria?

So the best deal I've found so far is the Sony HTS-S370 - which meets all the above requirements besides the wireless rear speakers, which would be an additional 75-100$ to purchase (RocketFish). There was a recent deal in the past few months where this system, with a coupon code, was about $235 shipped - unfortunately, it is about a $100 more than that now. Anyone have any good deals/recommedations or advice?

Thanks!

P.S. We also purchased this for the universal remote:

http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Multime.../dp/B0036VO67I
Right now, it is $26 shipped with a coupon code