New Builder & Motherboard Help Please.

eryx24

Member
Jan 20, 2009
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Hey, I'm gonna buy my computer parts soon and was wondering if there are any step by step guides online that are current with the parts they use to show you the guide. I wanna build it myself so I can learn how to do it but if there arent any updated guides, then I guess I'll take it to a store. If anyones wondering these are my specs...

Antec Twelve Hundred Case or COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932
WD 500GB 7200RPM
Evga GTX 260 216 Core
CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W
CORSAIR 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800
GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R
Intel 8400 3.0ghz duo
SAMSUNG 22X DVD Burner SATA

Also another thing, from what I've been reading it seems like motherboard's failing are pretty common. I've read reviews on them dying in 6 months to 2 months or even less. Is there anyway to avoid this? The case I'm getting either comes with 6 fans or if I get the Coolermaster it comes with 4 (3 230MM's) and they're both Full tower so I'm assuming that would keep everything cool, or is it just luck? Thanks
 

o1die

Diamond Member
Jul 8, 2001
4,785
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71
I use an anti static strap ($1-3) when handling boards to prevent circuit blowouts due to static discharge from your hands. Some folks think this is overkill, but dell requires it for all builders. For starters, I always recommend a "bare post" test before mounting the board in the case. Place the board on the box it came in or a phonebook, and install just the cpu/heatsink, one stick of memory, and monitor connection to the onboard video, or use your video card with the power supply 6 pin connetor if required. Be sure to use the 24 pin atx plug and 4 or 8 pin 12v plugs from the power supply, then touch the power switch pins with a flathead screwdriver, and the board should post. Then go into the bios and check the boot order; you can use dvd>hardrive or floppy>dvd>hardrive. Then adjust the memory voltage if your sticks use more than 1.8 volts; then save and exit using f10 on the keyboard. Turn off the power. Then tie down the cables and wires out of the way before you mount the board in the case. Then install the backplate in the case; you may have to twist the default plate back and forth until it falls out to give you space for your new board's backplate (also called i/o shield). If the power supply is out of the case, leave it there until after you mount the board. The power cables will just get in the way. Now inspect the case floor for brass or silver standoffs (about 1/4 inch high); use 4-6 lined up with the motherboard holes; any extras that don't line up have to be removed. You don't need to match all the holes with a standoff; 4-6 will be adequate, just don't leave extra standoffs under the board wiring as they will cause a short which will prevent the board from posting. Test one of the standoffs with a screw to find out which size screw to use; the wrong screw may get stuck or stip the standoff hole, making it hard to remove. Now, discharge your hand by touching bare metal or using the anti static strap, and grab the board by one of the heatsinks, either over the board chipset or cpu, and slide the board into the case against the backplate. Be sure all the memory and cpu/heatsink are installed first; I find this easier than installing them while the board is in the case. If the backplate is backwards (doesn't line up with the motherboard ports), carefully remove the board out of the case and reinstall the backplate. It must be flush (flat) with all corners out or the board may not post, due to metal to metal contact. Also, you may have to bend up some leftover backplate metal to slide over the motherboard ports. After mounting the board and checking the backplate and motherboard ports for a flush fit, then use a phillips screwdriver to install the screws in the board holes. You may have to push the board against the backplate to install the first screw. After installing all the screws, then you can mount all the cards in the slots; video, modem, wireless networking card (if required) etc. Then install the optical drives, hardrives, and floppy before mounting the power supply. The power supply may interfere with installing the drives in the 5 and 1/2 inch bays. NOw for the power supply. All atx power supplies install with 4 screws, which should line up on the back. Then connect all power supply leads to the optical, hardrives, and floppy (if you use one), and then the sata leads (red, black, or orange thin cables), cd sound from the optical drive, 24 pin and 4 or 8 pin 12v power switch leads, and finally, all the case leads to the motherboard (power led, power switch, reset, hardrive led, etc.) This step is where many have problems. The best boards have these pins color coded to make it easier. Check the board manual carefully for directions. Only the power switch lead has to work to fire up the board, but it's good to have all the led lights working on the front of the case. Don't connect any front sound leads; often this makes the back sound ports unusable, as jumpers have to be removed for the front lead; so both end up not working. I don't use front sound ports, unless they're already connected by someone else. Final step is to check everything over, especially the cpu heatsink fan lead to the motherboard. Then press the case power on switch; if it doesn't work, then check the power supply toggle switch on the back, and move it and try again. Then reinstall windows on your hardrive if required. If windows boots up, you'll have to let it reboot the system several times after installing all the drivers again for the new board. If you get a bluescreen, then it's time to format and start over. Good luck.
 

eryx24

Member
Jan 20, 2009
78
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Thanks for the reply oldie and the link conlan. Does anyone have any information about the motherboard issue?
 

o1die

Diamond Member
Jul 8, 2001
4,785
0
71
You really can't predict the lifespan of new boards. You have a quality corsair ps; be sure to use a canned air product once a year to clean the cpu heatsink fan and power supply fan(s). I use "perfect duster", a product sold at fry's electronics. It has a solvent that evaporates quickly after application to help clean off the crud. Also, once you install the board, if everything works ok, I would LEAVE IT ALONE. I wouldn't change or touch anything on the board unless a card fails. No bios updates unless you have a problem that the bios fixes.
 

polarbear6

Golden Member
Jul 14, 2008
1,161
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well iam very much careless when assembling computers
and till all the pcs my builts never failed (god please forgive me for this statement ;))
and talking about anti static straps and stuff
all i can say is that
in my life i had many electric shocks as i tinker a lot around my switch boards
AND IAM STILL ALIVE
AND JUST MAKE SURE U DONT HAVE MANY POWER FLUCUATIONS(best to invest in some multi meters and test ur switch board)
AND WHILE INSTALLING and using ALWAYS SEE TO THAT UR PC IS GETTING POWER VIA A POWER STABILIZER like a ups or some reliable source(to be extra extra sure)
cause usually boards die only because of power fluctuations

and as far as i have heard even if it dies u can RMA the parts (as the parts which die in 6 months must have had some manufacturing defects)
and another thing
GOD GAVE U THE MONEY TO BUY THIS BOARD SO HE MUST HAVE BEEN TAKING CARE OF U
SO WHY DO U EVEN THINK THAT THIS MIGHT DIE IN 6 MONTHS BE OPTIMISTIC AND LET ALL YOUR GRIEFS TO FALL ON THE ALMIGHTY
BROTHER
(a little off the topic ;))