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Networking to car/my apartment parking lot with camera support?

H

hpkeeper

Diamond Member
I'm trying to set up a camera in my vehicle that when within range of my wifi will sign onto the network and allow me to use a program such as... I dunno... iCam to view what is happening outside of my car when I'm not able to myself.

Think of it as a small security network. -- Because I think that's what it will be.

I don't think I have a problem with the range of my wifi as much as it is finding an inexpensive device that can support wifi that can also run a USB or wireless camera as well as transmit that data to a computer inside my network that would act as a server for that.

I may be way out of my league, but this is where i'm starting.
 
It isn't particularly difficult as you can get small cameras that are already wifi based. Your bigger issue will be power as the car battery wouldn't last as long as you think with the engine off.
 
the automotive portion of it is the easy part (in my opinion), I'm just wondering what I can use in regards to a small PC (or mac) that would easily be concealed in my Jeep Wrangler under a seat or where ever.

I'm just curious what I should use... like a PDA or something? or what camera?
 
Let go of the USB camera concept that you are familiar with. You need to set an IP Camera.

The WIFI IP cameras connect directly to the Wireless Router (no need for any thing else in the car). When set correctly its Video can be seen and recorded from any Internet connection in the world.

If you car is within the range of your home WIFI you only need a camera in the car.

Find a 12V "brick" that matches the spec. of the PSU of the camera, or use a DC to 110VAC converter and plug the original camera's PSU and that it (provided you have the patient to read its manual to learn how to configure a camera).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_camera

Example of a camera, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16881103031



😎
 
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You are still likely to have power issues. Even small cameras (ie ones that suck in the dark) are going to draw in the 4-5watt range. Add in the power converters and you can easily be in the 8-12 watt range which is about 1amp @ 12V so 1 amp/hour. Typical car battery varies from 45 - 120 amp/hours (possible more). 12 watts will take 100-120 hours to deplete a 120a/h battery however that is "to dead" starting your vehicle is a different number. Not driving for 2 days may leave you with a working camera but a battery that can't start the vehicle. That also assumes there is no load from other items like the radio, ECU.

Once you start trying to do something like IR cameras the current requirements go up even more.
 
You could cut power requirements way down if you used low frame rates and something to control the cycling. Snap a pic, sleep for 20 secs, snap, sleep, etc.
Or even better would be motion sensor enabled where only the motion sensor stays powered . Motion sensors consume less than .5 watts
 
JackMDS said:
Let go of the USB camera concept that you are familiar with. You need to set an IP Camera.

The WIFI IP cameras connect directly to the Wireless Router (no need for any thing else in the car). When set correctly its Video can be seen and recorded from any Internet connection in the world.

If you car is within the range of your home WIFI you only need a camera in the car.

Find a 12V "brick" that matches the spec. of the PSU of the camera, or use a DC to 110VAC converter and plug the original camera's PSU and that it (provided you have the patient to read its manual to learn how to configure a camera).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_camera

Example of a camera, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16881103031



😎
Click to expand...


That's great! (not surprisingly) I didn't know that existed. Someting a bit more covert would be nice but that's just a matter of searching.


imagoon said:
You are still likely to have power issues. Even small cameras (ie ones that suck in the dark) are going to draw in the 4-5watt range. Add in the power converters and you can easily be in the 8-12 watt range which is about 1amp @ 12V so 1 amp/hour. Typical car battery varies from 45 - 120 amp/hours (possible more). 12 watts will take 100-120 hours to deplete a 120a/h battery however that is "to dead" starting your vehicle is a different number. Not driving for 2 days may leave you with a working camera but a battery that can't start the vehicle. That also assumes there is no load from other items like the radio, ECU.

Once you start trying to do something like IR cameras the current requirements go up even more.
Click to expand...

It would be less of a problem if I installed an additional car battery, similar to that of which people do when installing large stereo systems in a vehicle. I don't think it would be a big drain on the alternator seeing as the secondary battery would be essentially used just to supply the camera.

Thoughts?
 
hpkeeper said:
That's great! (not surprisingly) I didn't know that existed. Someting a bit more covert would be nice but that's just a matter of searching.




It would be less of a problem if I installed an additional car battery, similar to that of which people do when installing large stereo systems in a vehicle. I don't think it would be a big drain on the alternator seeing as the secondary battery would be essentially used just to supply the camera.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

You will need an battery isolator then. There is no way to "power only the camera" without one. In corrently connected you will have issues caused by the stronger battery trying to charge the weaker battery. You can also burn out the alternator if the load is to high. Granted most (offroad) Jeeps are a bit over powered for off road winch duties.
 
why not have a battery dedicated to this? Have a camera that turns on when it senses movement as well will probably save you a lot of battery.
 
Alix alix2d1 motherboard running linux - 3-5w
Wifi card - 2-3w
USB camera - .5w

12v utility battery could run the setup for approx. 20 hours before damaging it, in theory.

Add a 5-10w el-cheapo ebay solar panel and it could likely not need attention ever. Again in theory.
 
JackMDS said:
Let go of the USB camera concept that you are familiar with. You need to set an IP Camera.

The WIFI IP cameras connect directly to the Wireless Router (no need for any thing else in the car). When set correctly its Video can be seen and recorded from any Internet connection in the world.

If you car is within the range of your home WIFI you only need a camera in the car.

Find a 12V "brick" that matches the spec. of the PSU of the camera, or use a DC to 110VAC converter and plug the original camera's PSU and that it (provided you have the patient to read its manual to learn how to configure a camera).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_camera

Example of a camera, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16881103031



😎
Click to expand...

This is the approach one often overlooks. In this kind of situation it's better to have the camera looking out of what's protected vs at what is protected. You have access to power and weatherproofing. Issues are some cars +12V ports are turned off with the ignition (simply rewiring to +12V constant usually solves that unless advanced electronics are involved).

As long as you have signal at the vehicle from your home WAP you should be in business.

For this kind of network it's often best to buy a separate wireless device that supports external antennas, a more directional antenna will probably be needed and almost all the affordable wireless cameras run G at best so will hamper an N network unless you have invested in a dual radio / dual band AP.
 
Trendnet IP-422 does Pan tilt and zoom and shows up at the $150 price point at times (there is a wireless/wired model and a wired only make sure what you are looking at). The Mole at Costco's now are about $200, I haven't tested them but they should be about the same in quality. The Mole uses SD instead of a thumbdrive which is nice and also is iPhone compatible.

The Trendnet can send periodic updates to an iphone (snap shots) but you can't access the controls or viewing from the iphone. With a macbook you and see the web interface, but the controls for PTZ and sound doesn't work.

I keep the camera up at times and just listen in in the background.

This would be the best method to monitor a car, but if your area is constantly noisy it could be a problem.

My trendnet camera also can be set up for two monitored 'targets' where if motion takes place in them, it will send an event.

Starting cheaper will at least give you an idea if it's even going to work.
 
I install quite a few wireless IP cameras. One of the things that you will have to deal with is the connection. Even though you set it up to automatically connect in the presence of your wifi it does not mean it will always do so. You'll need to check when you get into the house to make sure.
 
Oooh just thought of something, when those lovely Raspberry Pi dealys come out, that + USB webcam + USB wifi dongle = 3-5w of autoconnecting linux awesomeness.
 
OMG when can we buy those things?! i never heard of them until now, that is going to be killer.... the possibilities!

shit, a new VX5000 microsoft usb webcam is only $20 shipped on ebay. youre right, pair that with a nice little wireless N adapter and a 16GB sd card... you could record locally and also back that up to a wireless spot at a later time (when you get home). and every camera would be independent. you could easily do it for under $100 each camera... that is pretty sic! sort of like taking cheap routers and putting ddwrt on them😀

or even better, buy a usb 7" touchscreen, and slap this on the back of it (or inside maybe!). instant tablet. throw in say 4x32GB SD cards and you have a handheld music jukebox. hang it on the wall and viola. the cost would only be about $125 plus however much storage you want.

now if someone will just port hipporemote from the iphone os to linux....
 
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