Negotiating used car price?

[snoopy7548]

I'm looking for a new (used) car. My current one is 11 years old with 101k miles; it's in excellent condition except for some rust on the right rear quarter panel and I would keep it for a few more years, but its usability is pretty bad. I'm looking for a compact SUV/crossover for the cargo space to haul around bags of mulch or wood for projects, and other stuff.

I've got my mind set on a Honda HR-V. The problem is they're no longer made with a manual transmission, so I'll have to buy used. I'm going to a local dealership today to check one out and I won't be buying, but I want to be prepared. I've never negotiated the price of a used car before.

This is the one I'm looking at:
http://www.bernardihondanatick.com/used/Honda/2016-Honda-HR-V-606a37ab0a0e0adf27a25a30f2a8410f.htm

KBB puts this at ~$14-16.7k ($15.5k fair purchase price). If we start talking prices, I was hoping to throw out $14.5k. I already have an offer from a co-worker on my current car for $1k (which is pretty much all I expect to get for it), so I'll mention that but not the price.

I can pay cash, but I know that financing through the dealer usually gets you the best deal. If I can finance it for a better deal and pay it off after a month, I'd probably do that.

Any tips? Do dealerships usually negotiate on used cars? I've looked around and prices are all over the place for a used 6-speed HR-V, from $14k to $20k, but there is extremely little local availability. I'm hoping that this specific one being the first model year with FWD in a region where everyone thinks they need AWD, and having a manual transmission (which nobody wants these days) could give me some leverage.

Thanks in advance.

 

[dasherHampton]

I can add this from personal experience:

Throw out your offer and if they refuse it say "thanks" and physically get up from your chair as if you're going to walk out. It's worked every time I've bought a car to get a better deal.

Also - buying at the end of the month can get you a better deal as well as the dealership wants to pad its's numbers. That's straight from a car dealer friend of mine.

 

[snoopy7548]

Cool, thanks. I'm just checking the car out and taking it for a test drive, so I have zero problem walking away immediately after I'm done. If I liked the car, I would go back in a couple of weeks to negotiate.

I will probably have to use, "Thanks, but I'm supposed to meet a friend in 20 minutes so I need to get going." I'm certainly not going to waste my Saturday afternoon at a dealership for anything more than a test drive and maybe 15 minutes of discussion.

 

[ondma]

I'm looking for a new (used) car. My current one is 11 years old with 101k miles; it's in excellent condition except for some rust on the right rear quarter panel and I would keep it for a few more years, but its usability is pretty bad. I'm looking for a compact SUV/crossover for the cargo space to haul around bags of mulch or wood for projects, and other stuff.

I've got my mind set on a Honda HR-V. The problem is they're no longer made with a manual transmission, so I'll have to buy used. I'm going to a local dealership today to check one out and I won't be buying, but I want to be prepared. I've never negotiated the price of a used car before.

This is the one I'm looking at:
http://www.bernardihondanatick.com/used/Honda/2016-Honda-HR-V-606a37ab0a0e0adf27a25a30f2a8410f.htm

KBB puts this at ~$14-16.7k ($15.5k fair purchase price). If we start talking prices, I was hoping to throw out $14.5k. I already have an offer from a co-worker on my current car for $1k (which is pretty much all I expect to get for it), so I'll mention that but not the price.

I can pay cash, but I know that financing through the dealer usually gets you the best deal. If I can finance it for a better deal and pay it off after a month, I'd probably do that.

Any tips? Do dealerships usually negotiate on used cars? I've looked around and prices are all over the place for a used 6-speed HR-V, from $14k to $20k, but there is extremely little local availability. I'm hoping that this specific one being the first model year with FWD in a region where everyone thinks they need AWD, and having a manual transmission (which nobody wants these days) could give me some leverage.

Thanks in advance.

You might want to check out the Suburu Impreza or if you want more ground clearance, the Crosstrek. The impreza has a 5 door that is quite nice, and the cross-trek (older models are called the XV) is basically a lifted 5 door impreza. All wheel drive is standard of course (if that matters to you), and I think it has more room than the HRV. The eye-sight package is fantastic if you can find one with it in your price range. They also have a manual trans still available, 5 or 6 speed depending on year/model.

If you are willing to go to 20K, that is very close to the sticker price on a brand new base 5 speed Impreza. You could also look at the Hyundai Kona (new) in the 20k range, has a great warranty.

 

[NutBucket]

The good thing is demand for a manual HR-V is low so you can definitely push them harder on price.

Just curious but why an HR-V over a Fit?

 

[snoopy7548]

I just can't see myself in a Fit. I like the extra cargo space of the HR-V and the increased ride height. If I was interested in a hatch, I'd probably go with a Mazda3 or something.

This may sound silly, but one of my "requirements" is being able to fit a pinball machine in the back. Out of all the subcompact SUVs, even the Crosstrek, the HR-V is the only one that can do that.


It went pretty well yesterday. The car drove well with no apparent problems - the clutch and shifter felt nice and smooth. The exterior was in great condition except for a couple of minor scuffs, a few small dents, and a couple of tiny chips that didn't seem to be down to the bare metal - mostly what you'd expect for a used car in Boston. You don't see them from a few feet away.

After the test drive, we went back inside the showroom and price didn't even come up. The consultant I originally met with brought out the sales guy who just asked me what my timeframe was of making a decision. I told him two weeks, but he said there's someone else interested (coming in that day) and it won't last two weeks. We pretty much left it at that and I went home.

I'm on the fence. This certainly is a rare car especially in this region; this is the only 6-speed HR-V within a 300 mile radius that I think I've ever seen. They didn't sell well to begin with, so I don't anticipate many more coming on the market.

I'm thinking about going back and trying to negotiate on price. Maybe offer $15k, and work up to a limit of $16.5k with some extras - touch up paint, an extra key, and all-weather floor mats (or at least the cargo tray).

 

[NutBucket]

If it's vertical space you're after what about a Forester? 2018 and earlier have an MT available.

 

[olds]

Determine what you are willing to spend for a vehicle. Offer less and work up with the the dealer to you set price. Don't tell them this price, don't tell them about selling you car, don't tell them what you can afford monthly. Don't budge. As mentioned above, get up and walk out if you can't come to terms.

Dealerships highest mark ups are on used vehicles. Keep in mind they have to pay employees, overhead and floor vehicles. they need to make money too.

Be prepared to get up sold in finance. Warranty, gap insurance, mop and glow, etc. You can say no to it all if you don't need it.

 

[Midwayman]

One thing I've found is if it's a 'internet special' price they are often a lot less likely to come down. More and more they are making money on financing, doc fees, etc. I'd wouldn't even discuss the trade until you have a price nailed down though. I'd see if you can agree on an out the door price over email since you've already driven it. That way you don't have the pressure of them wasting your time in the showroom.

 

[snoopy7548]

Yeah, this is their "Best Price." I think I'm sort of stuck between a rock and a hard place since there simply aren't any other manual tranmsission HR-Vs in the area. These things sold poorly in the Northeast.

In my state, the documentation fees must be included in the advertised price, so I think I'm only looking at registration/title and tax - so the max OTD shouldn't be more than ~$18k.

 

[Midwayman]

Well one thing to consider is just taking a one way plane trip to pick one up. Especially if you use salt in your area it might be worthwhile just for that. Its easy to eat the cost of a plane/train ticket for the difference in price. Plus then you can shop around for options a bit more.

 

[snoopy7548]

I did consider that, but I'm not sure if it's worth the hassle just to maybe save $1-2k. I've kept my current car for 11.5 years, and I plan on keeping this one for at least as long, so not getting an excellent deal isn't worth a lot of trouble to me.

I do live in an area that uses salt. This car was leased with regular dealership oil changes/washes and full service records, so I have to assume the things I can't see are in good condition, but one of my stipulations would be to bring it to my mechanic or a local mechanic (the dealership is ~40 min. from me) for a thorough inspection.

I think I'm going to tell the guy I'm interested but I'd like to come in for another drive and to check the car over, and then we can discuss everything else.

 

[manly]

As others have suggested, unless this dealership is strictly a "no haggle" seller, you can negotiate a better price. If they are selling the car for above the KBB price range with this specific equipment, at the least print that out and bring it in.

Do you know when the car was first available for sale, and if there have been any price drops? Generally speaking, if a dealership is unrealistic with its advertised price, time is on your side. They can claim somebody else is highly interested but the only thing that matters is if someone else buys the car before you pull the trigger. Everything else is a sales tactic.

Some car buyers are motivated by getting the absolute best deal possible (I'm closer to this camp). Others are more motivated to get their dream car into their garage before someone else swipes it. If that's truly the case, it won't really matter if you spent $1k more than a less motivated buyer would have, so long as the car fits into your budget. Having said that, if you are willing to lose this car (eventually there will be another deal), I'd cool my jets for a couple days. Otherwise they'll pretty much know you're a serious buyer, and you'll have no leverage.

 

[snoopy7548]

As others have suggested, unless this dealership is strictly a "no haggle" seller, you can negotiate a better price. If they are selling the car for above the KBB price range with this specific equipment, at the least print that out and bring it in.

Do you know when the car was first available for sale, and if there have been any price drops? Generally speaking, if a dealership is unrealistic with its advertised price, time is on your side. They can claim somebody else is highly interested but the only thing that matters is if someone else buys the car before you pull the trigger. Everything else is a sales tactic.

Some car buyers are motivated by getting the absolute best deal possible (I'm closer to this camp). Others are more motivated to get their dream car into their garage before someone else swipes it. If that's truly the case, it won't really matter if you spent $1k more than a less motivated buyer would have, so long as the car fits into your budget. Having said that, if you are willing to lose this car (eventually there will be another deal), I'd cool my jets for a couple days. Otherwise they'll pretty much know you're a serious buyer, and you'll have no leverage.

Good points. I asked about the price and they said that it is firm with no room for budging. They also said that aside from doc fees, I'll need to pay $104 for the wheel locks - but these were installed in 2015. I have to assume the person who leased the car already paid for them; there's no reason for me to pay. I may just walk solely based on that BS.

 

[olds]

Good points. I asked about the price and they said that it is firm with no room for budging. They also said that aside from doc fees, I'll need to pay $104 for the wheel locks - but these were installed in 2015. I have to assume the person who leased the car already paid for them; there's no reason for me to pay. I may just walk solely based on that BS.

Ask them to remove the wheel locks.

 

[Midwayman]

LOL. When I bought my last car it was used and had a 2nd set of floor mats in the trunk. They mentioned nothing about them other than they were there until I was signing papers and they threw on a $100 charge for the 2nd set of mats. I was all WTF and ready to walk over that and the stupid doc fee they hadn't mentioned until I was signing papers. Once I've agreed to a price, its the price.

 

[WhiteNoise]

17 seems high for that Honda. I mean new the loaded model was selling for just over $25k. Low miles though but meh.. I'd tell them I have cash in hand and offer 16k and if that doesn't work Id find another car. That Honda isn't anything special and certainly not worth paying that price.

My cousin is an Engineer for Honda. I've been in just about every honda that's been made in the past 10 years. When the new models release the old models that are at the engineering facility get sold off to employees and or auctions. So as family I can get the employee discount which is insane but though many in my family take advantage of this I haven't. I like Honda a lot but they haven't made a single car, crossover or SUV in years that I'd want to own.

 

[herm0016]

I like Honda a lot but they haven't made a single car, crossover or SUV in years that I'd want to own.

what do you like about them then? lawnmowers?

 

[olds]

... I like Honda a lot but they haven't made a single car, crossover or SUV in years that I'd want to own.

Including this one?

 

[snoopy7548]

Thanks for the advice, everyone. I pretty much told the dealership that I want to step back for a bit. $17k is higher than what I consider a good deal considering the 3-year warranty is expired and it's not a Honda CPO, and the wheel locks are not something I'll pay for. I gave them a timeframe of a week or two to possibly come in for another drive and discussion, but I would let them know.

I guess I'm in a good position that I don't need a car right now, and the only real reason I'm upgrading is because I want more cargo capacity. If they have no buyers in a couple of weeks, I'll be in an even better position to negotiate to a more reasonable price.

 

[Dr. Detroit]

https://www.carmax.com/cars/honda/hr-v/manual-6-speed

 

[WhiteNoise]

Including this one?

I was strictly speaking Honda branded cars. Acura makes some slick looking rides for sure!

 

[WhiteNoise]

what do you like about them then? lawnmowers?

Funny you mention that. I own a Honda lawnmower and its awesome!

I was strictly speaking about their looks. Honda makes a great car. Very dependable. They just haven't made anything that looks great to me lately. Doesn't mean they don't make a great car though because they do!

 

[ondma]

Funny you mention that. I own a Honda lawnmower and its awesome!

I was strictly speaking about their looks. Honda makes a great car. Very dependable. They just haven't made anything that looks great to me lately. Doesn't mean they don't make a great car though because they do!

Yea, I agree. Accord is a great car, but has looked frumpy for several models now, although the newest one is better. Civic is just the opposite, looked decent until the latest redesign, which is way too boy racer for me. Reliability has slipped recently it seems as well for some models.

 

[soulcougher73]

What about just getting a small trailer you could tow with a car to haul a pinball machine? Or rent a truck from Home Depot when the time comes.