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Need UPS advice

John Connor

John Connor

Lifer
So I need a UPS for my computer. I'm not sure on what wattage UPS I need and what a good brand to buy. I was looking at Newegg and APC looks promising.

My computer has an Antec 550 watt PSU. I looked up a similar model and it said the input was 8-4 amps! That means I need a minimum 960 watt UPS? That doesn't sound right. My monitor is a Dell 20" LCD.
 
So I just used this calculator and found out it's about 323 watts. http://www.apc.com/tools/ups_selector/US/en/home/device

I have the following build:

1- PCI sound card
1- SATA II HDD
1 SATA II SSD
1 -USB external drive
1- USB WIFI dongle
1- USB wireless KB mouse
1- GTX 560 TI
6 GB DDR2 RAM
1- DVD/RW optical drive
1- 20" LCD monitor

I would also like to get a UPS for the router a WRT54GL and the modem an Arris data voice modem.
 
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I own the CyberPower CP1350AVRLCD & CP1500AVRLCD. Both these AVR models have served me well. Get an AVR (automatic voltage regulation), model if you can swing it.
I'd go with the 1500 unless you can find the 1350 for much cheaper using a discount code or something.
 
I don't get into splitting hairs when it comes to backup power and protection.
Excess AVR capacity will never hurt.
Of course there is a balance between capacity and cost. But I don't view the 1350 or 1500 models as being excessively expensive for their capacities.

I would consider a PR2200LCD (1980W), excessive at $834.

Each user has different priorities. It all boils down to how much you're willing to spend on capacity and protection.
 
or you can do what everyone says you shouldn't do, get one from the local goodwill and put a sealed battery to it:
100_1604.jpg
 
Equating wattage to your current system load is not the whole story. In addition to that, you need to determine how long you want your system to run on battery power alone. I get the biggest one I can afford and then let the software (APC) determine how long it can run. Batteries will need replacement about every 3-4 years on average. Some folks can't handle that chore, so Gillbot's soution is a good one.
 
Gillbot said:
or you can do what everyone says you shouldn't do, get one from the local goodwill and put a sealed battery to it:
100_1604.jpg
Click to expand...
I would leave the top off and allow the "less dense than air" hydrogen gas escape.
It will find it's way out of the building in no time.
 
John Connor said:
I don't need that much wattage, do I?
Click to expand...

match ups with PSU.

So if u have a 450W PSU, typically u want a 450W ups on it.

Watts is not VA.... There is a conversion, so a 1000VA is more like a 600W UPS.

Blain says u want to get the largest u can afford, i support his recommendation because on a ups, in the battery backup side, if u exceed the wattage on the ups, you will cause the UPS to trip and shut off.

Matching the PSU Wattage with UPS is a good rule, because theoretically no one ever achieves 100% on any PSU.
If you would like to add additional stuff to the battery side on the ups... u should add 50W for every LED monitor... and 25W for a router/modem/powered USB HUB and 150W on a laser printer.

Blain said:
I would leave the top off and allow the "less dense than air" hydrogen gas escape.
It will find it's way out of the building in no time.
Click to expand...

i think that depends on the battery.

Knowing gillbot and his electrical prowesss, which i rank much higher then mine, im sure those are deep cycle sealed acid batteries...
He's not the type to be stupid and overcharge his batteries causing them to explode... lol...
Thats more like my area of expertise... and i always get yelled by him at it.
 
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aigomorla said:
Knowing gillbot and his electrical prowesss, which i rank much higher then mine, im sure those are deep cycle sealed acid batteries...
He's not the type to be stupid and overcharge his batteries causing them to explode... lol...
Thats more like my area of expertise... and i always get yelled by him at it.
Click to expand...

They are not deep cycle sealed, but I know the consequences of using a typical battery. The cover is not sealed on and there is plenty of ventilation. Furthermore that is a very old pic and the setup has changed drastically since, but i'm too lazy to dig out the new one from the back of the closet and take pics. It's a much larger industrial unit which takes two batteries.

EDIT: That's why I recommended in my post that if one should do this, they should use a sealed battery.
or you can do what everyone says you shouldn't do, get one from the local goodwill and put a sealed battery to it:
Click to expand...

My main complaint is that the batteries don't last very long in these and typically cost an arm and leg to replace. I refuse to toss something out that "works" other than the battery won't hold a charge. I just re-purpose old tractor/car batteries and accept the risk of using a non-sealed unit.
 
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Last May, I got an email from Schneider Electric (APC) stating that I should replace my battery. So, I ordered a new sealed unit, and it is still sitting in a box under my desk. Reason? The old one keeps on keeping on and passes all tests. That was 5 months ago! It will probably go another 5 months, but I do have a new sealed battery ready to go.
 
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