Need suggestions for how to finish laser-cut plywood

[Leros]

I have some laser cut plywood. I want to put some kind of finish on it to protect the wood. I was considering painting it, but the plywood also has some laser etched text and markings that I want to preserve.

So I'd guess I'd like to stain it. Are there any tricks for staining plywood?

Also, are the stain/poly mixes okay or should I apply poly separately after I stain?

 

[highland145]

What's the project? Is it pine?

 

[Safeway]

Polyurethane only. It gives it a nice glow. Staining, by definition, will only darken the wood. If you want that yellow look, the polyurethane will do that.

 

[Leros]

What's the project? Is it pine?

The material is high quality 1/4" birch plywood.

The project is a tabletop 3d printer. The parts all came in a kit and are mix of laser cut plywood and acrylic.

 

[highland145]

The material is high quality 1/4" birch plywood.

The project is a tabletop 3d printer. The parts all came in a kit and are mix of laser cut plywood and acrylic.

That's cool. Agree on the poly only. Wet it and you'll get a good idea on the look. Satin, gloss or semi gloss- your preference.

 

[Leros]

Polyurethane only. It gives it a nice glow. Staining, by definition, will only darken the wood. If you want that yellow look, the polyurethane will do that.

Well, I am curious in giving the wood some more definition. The parts are good quality plywood (no knots, good uniform surface) so I think I can get a decent stain.

My previous experiment with staining cheap pine plywood was that the stain did not apply uniformly. It looked kinda crummy. I'm hoping this better birch will stain better.

 

[Leros]

That's cool. Agree on the poly only.

Hmm... perhaps. I am afraid of ruining the wood with the stain and I was only wanting to give it a very light oak stain anyway. Maybe I will only do the poly then...

Is it better too use spray or brush it on myself?

 

[mizzou]

I routinly use.birch plywood for furniture, oddly enough i have yet to stain any of them haha!

 

[mizzou]

Well, I am curious in giving the wood some more definition. The parts are good quality plywood (no knots, good uniform surface) so I think I can get a decent stain.

My previous experiment with staining cheap pine plywood was that the stain did not apply uniformly. It looked kinda crummy. I'm hoping this better birch will stain better.

Just use a good conditioner, it usually solves that problem

 

[Leros]

That's cool. Agree on the poly only. Wet it and you'll get a good idea on the look. Satin, gloss or semi gloss- your preference.

Wet it with water? Won't that damage the wood?

 

[Drako]

I would use a clear matte lacquer for that.

 

[Hayabusa Rider]

Add a tint or dye to a brush-on dewaxed shellac sealer like zissners and then a wipe on poly. The poly will most likely say to not apply over shellac. That is only true of shellac with wax. Wax prevents a good bond. This two step approach provides a superior finish over poly alone.

 

[highland145]

Wet it with water? Won't that damage the wood?

Damp not flood. Might raise the grain a little. You could get a project board (2X2) from home depot and try several stains/finishes.

I would brush it.

What are you going to make with it, out of curiosity.

 

[Vette73]

Use a light color gel stain. Then top coat with your the most fitting finish (shellac, poly, etc...)

 

[Leros]

I would brush it.

What are you going to make with it, out of curiosity.

Hayabusa's suggesstion of a wipe on poly seemed interesting. It seems like a wipe on poly would be more even than brushed on. Thoughts?

I have nothing specific that I am going to make. I view this as another type of creative outlet. I have no idea what I'll end up doing with it.

 

[swerus]

I would go with a prestain, then a penetrating oil stain in the color you desire, and follow with 3 coats of acrylic poly.

Gel stain is harder to work with than penetrating oil, that you can just rub in with a rag. Wipe on poly would never be smoother than sprayed. Get a rattle can or two from that last link, it dries super fast, and scuff it with some pregressive grit paper in between coats. Lightly spray each coat, the more you do the more depth it will add. Acrylic poly will never yellow like shellac or oil base.

 

[highland145]

Hayabusa's suggesstion of a wipe on poly seemed interesting. It seems like a wipe on poly would be more even than brushed on. Thoughts?

I've never tried it. Unless it dries really fast, the brush marks should disappear. I'm in the middle of a bi-plane for the boy and I'm just using tung oil. I think there's a lot of ways to approach it and you'll have to see what you like best (the project board). There are others here way more experienced that I am with finishes.

Even a coat of dark paste wax will look good but won't provide the protection of the others suggested.

 

[Vette73]

I would go with a prestain, then a penetrating oil stain in the color you desire, and follow with 3 coats of acrylic poly.

Gel stain is harder to work with than penetrating oil, that you can just rub in with a rag. Wipe on poly would never be smoother than sprayed. Get a rattle can or two from that last link, it dries super fast, and scuff it with some pregressive grit paper in between coats. Lightly spray each coat, the more you do the more depth it will add. Acrylic poly will never yellow like shellac or oil base.

I would not use a regular stain. Birch, let alone plywood, can get blotchy.

Gel stain is just wipe on and wipe off. Its thick enough it will control blotchs.

 

[Hayabusa Rider]

I've never tried it. Unless it dries really fast, the brush marks should disappear. I'm in the middle of a bi-plane for the boy and I'm just using tung oil. I think there's a lot of ways to approach it and you'll have to see what you like best (the project board). There are others here way more experienced that I am with finishes.

Even a coat of dark paste wax will look good but won't provide the protection of the others suggested.

The nice thing about wipe on is that it's extremely forgiving, eliminates bubbles, generally has superior adhesion and tends to look less like plastic. If the op can wait and provide an email addy I can send a very good article on the process tonight.

 

[Leros]

The nice thing about wipe on is that it's extremely forgiving, eliminates bubbles, generally has superior adhesion and tends to look less like plastic. If the op can wait and provide an email addy I can send a very good article on the process tonight.

YGPM

Thanks

 

[meltdown75]

pew pew pew

 

[Leros]

pew pew pew

Informative.

 

[meltdown75]

Informative.

man, someone had to

 

[swerus]

I would not use a regular stain. Birch, let alone plywood, can get blotchy.

Gel stain is just wipe on and wipe off. Its thick enough it will control blotchs.

That is why you use the prestain it will soak in and make the stain penetrate evenly.

 

[Vette73]

That is why you use the prestain.

Prestain does not always work. And being this is plywood there is no telling what other woods and their condition is under the top layer.

Gel stain sits on top and does not require a prestain. I use gel for any wood that has a major chance of blotch, unless I spray. I have pigment stains, gels, dyes, etc... in my wood shop and birch plywood is not where I would even think of using a pigment liquid stain.
General finishs and Minwax both have good gel stains.