Need some advice for a SKT1155 HTPC/Home Server...

[bob4432]

This was my plan - https://forums.anandtech.com/thread...tion-of-nuc-w-celeron-j3455-for-htpc.2512692/

But due to post #14, I now need to use what was going to be the Home Server machine as a dual role HTPC & Home Server. For watching videos, it has to be able to decode 10bit H265 @ 1920x1080 movies and with the i5-2500K it is capable of doing this, 4K is currently off the table. My goal is to get the power useage down from the current i5-2500K (90W, 32nm, 3.3-3.7GHz, 4C/4T, 6M Cache, Intel HD Graphics 3000) w/ 1 Raptor in it idles @ 40W and tops out @ 70W depending on what video I am watching. Regardless of what I am watching, power consumption from the wall measures, via a Kill-a-Watt, between ~50-70W, so I was contemplating a i3-3220T (35W, 22nm, 2.8GHz, 2C/4T, 3M Cache, Intel HD Graphics 2500) or a i5-3470T (35W, 22nm, 2.9-3.6GHz, 2C/4T, Intel HD Graphics 2500).
As far as the server duties, it will house a https, sftp server along with the holding of 4 computer's images as well as all of my music in both FLAC and AAC formats.
I will be swapping the Raptor out for a 120GB SSD for the system drive and 2x 2-4TB HDDs in a RAID1 array. Also it has 8GB of RAM in it and will regardless of the cpu option.
This machine will be on 24/7 as it is also how I watch any cable TV, so heat output cannot get any higher as I live in PHX, AZ.
So, do you guys think going to the 3rd Gen CPUs will offer what I am attempting to accomplish which is lower power & heat ouput while still retaining the fluid-like experience I currently have? Or would even a 45W, 65W or 77W i5/i7/Xeon variant be an option. FWIW, while the machine will have the different servers on it, there will not be a lot of concurrent connections to it - I am not running a high volume server, just for friends and acquaintences. OS will be Win10 Pro or possibly Win2008R2 or Win2012 Server, but most likely Win10Pro. A new PSU may be opted for as the one currently being used is over a decade old, so trying to keep the update to a minimum. Obviously the CPU will be picked up from a forum or if I cannot find one I like, eBay.
Please give me your feedback as if you read post #14 and the ~$880 AC issue in the referenced original post, I was just about ready to order, but that issue hit me just yesterday as my computer sits apart .
Thanks in advance,
Bob
Appreciate the suggestion.

 

[Insert_Nickname]

Given your situation, if you want to get power consumption down, you're starting in the wrong place. Your PSU matters a lot more then your CPU for that.

If you upgrade from that ancient non-80+ PSU to something modern 80+ Gold or even Platinum certified, I suspect you'll see quite a large improvement. If that PSU really is a decade old, you should really consider changing it.

 

[bob4432]

Than

Given your situation, if you want to get power consumption down, you're starting in the wrong place. Your PSU matters a lot more then your CPU for that.

If you upgrade from that ancient non-80+ PSU to something modern 80+ Gold or even Platinum certified, I suspect you'll see quite a large improvement. If that PSU really is a decade old, you should really consider changing it.

Thanks, I will have to verify but if memory serves me it is the PSU that came with the case which is an original Antec AL Lanboy that came with a PSU w/ blue LEDs in it, I believe either 350 or 380W, so it may even be older.
I just looked it up and the case was introduced ~2003 and I got it shortly thereafter as I didn't use it for LAN parties, but it worked perfectly for what I needed.
Will look into a good 300W PSU, thanks for the suggestion.
Bob

Edit: Before I get a 80+ Platinum I can swap the one in the case out to one of the 80+ ? Antec EarthWatts (380W I believe) I have that are just sitting around. This should by me some time for the short term.
Edit2: I pulled the case out and the PSU does not have the blue LEDs in it. I removed the side of the case and the PSU's sticker is on the inside of the PSU so I am not sure which one it is, but when I swap at least the system drive I will put in one of the EartWatts 80+ for the time being. Probably go ahead and cut the holes to support the largest fans possible, either 140, 120 or 92mm. Should be quieter and cooler.
Edit3: I did some research on the places I buy parts from and it turns out even my newest PSU is quite old, so looks like that is where I will start. I will look up the different 80+ levels and see what I can afford at the moment and go from there, starting with this HTPC/Home Server first. All these PSUs have a decent amount of time on them, so how do you sell them? To this day they are all very stable and the machines they are in are very stable. They all keep their voltages very close to where they should be so how do you assess value.
Thanks again,
Bob

 

[bob4432]

Bump for edits...

 

[aigomorla]

windows server does not like consumer grade hardware...

my advice?
I would build a FreeNAS/UnRaid Box and use a PLEX plugin.
Then you can basically play movies on anything from your phone to a smartTV as long as u have the plex app installed with a network connection.
Another approach will be to use KODI / XMBC, however Plex makes things stupidly easy for you.
And if you pay fora sub, you can even stream plex away from home provided your Home Internet has the sufficient upstream Bandwith.


So my advice...

1. Build a FreeNAS/Unraid headless NAS Box with your 2x2 4TB HDD.
2. Install PLEX Media Server Plugin.

3. Install PLEX App in Smart TV.... if oyu dont have a smart TV, you can get a cheap Android BOX
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=andriod+box

This way u can play all your movies on any SmartTV or laptop/phone/tablet.
You can even share your library with friends / family as long as your upstream can handle the bandwith, and with a paid plex pass.

And you will also have a centralized NAS for your home network.

 

[jihe]

I don't think changing the CPU would achieve much. I mean you could emulate low power parts just by turning off cores/underclocking/undervolting your 2500k.

 

[coercitiv]

I don't think changing the CPU would achieve much. I mean you could emulate low power parts just by turning off cores/underclocking/undervolting your 2500k.

And making sure whatever deeper C states are available for that platform are enabled through the BIOS.

 

[Insert_Nickname]

Will look into a good 300W PSU, thanks for the suggestion.

The Seasonic G-360 is an excellent low-wattage choice, but it's a little more expensive then your average PSU. It is 80+ Gold certified however.

 

[hoorah]

You didn't mention exactly what software you are running, but I suspect its either plex or emby, or will be. You mention cable TV which to my knowledge is still limited to windows 7 media center, is it not? I know silicondust has their own DVR app, but besides that there are no other options.

That said, most of my HTPCs can play back a 10 bit h.265 video in 1920x1080 (or it may actually be 720P, not sure), and they range from an AMD APU with a passmark score of 3600 to some core2duos with a passmark of 2500. Any i3 or i5 will be able to handle 1080P h.265. Like you said though - 4K definitely not.

Regarding everything else, power efficiency is important, sure, but when calculating mine I made the realization that I was putting in a ton of effort into upgrading CPUs to cut down on 20-30W of usage here and there when I could unscrew an old lightbulb and screw in a new LED bulb and get a 50W drop in 30 seconds. Not to say you havent already done that, I'm just saying to remember to keep things in perspective.

Dropping the raptor for an SSD will be a nice drop in power usage and noise.

I've always run a separate file server from my HTPC but lately I've been rethinking that. Around the time I got 4 cores out of a 65W CPU was the time I started leaving the HTPC on 24/7 and skipped doing the suspend/resume thing but thats still an option if you want to cut power further, just know that your file server will be down when the HTPC is sleeping.

 

[bob4432]

That is a nice PSU, but after the AC repair yesterday, I have to find another, cheaper unit. I pulled one of the EW 380W units from another machine and what I had in this one was a FSP 300W units and while the Vs were staying very close to where they are supposed to be, the EW 380 already shows a 3W difference in idling and at the lowest power pull, throughout useage it has been lower than the FSP unit across the board with the little testing I have done. I have not yet turned any cores off, just want to her a baseline for right now.
As fast as OS, I will be running Win10Pro and watching the cable through a browser, so no add-on card for that. It works quite well for my wife and I.
Understand about running web/file server and appreciate the heads up. I think the last 5yrs or so are you the only time in the last 20 that I haven't had a web/file server running, and like you say, if I need to save more power, I can go swap out an incandescent light for an LED .
Have a good one,
Bob