NEED HELP!!!...

[Animage]

I have the tower mounted so it will blow towards the exhaust .. the problem i am having is my antec sonata III's rear panels seem to be too small to put the RPM selector thru the rear.... Do i have to use it or will it run full blast without it ... need to know thanks.. I did search and cant find anyone having the same problem.

 

[WaTaGuMp]

Originally posted by: Animage
I have the tower mounted so it will blow towards the exhaust .. the problem i am having is my antec sonata III's rear panels seem to be too small to put the RPM selector thru the rear.... Do i have to use it or will it run full blast without it ... need to know thanks.. I did search and cant find anyone having the same problem.

Take the knob off the fan controller then it will slip into the case slots, then attach it then put the knob back on. If you dont use it yes the fan will go at full speed.

 

[Animage]

i think i just needed a break ... figured it out 10 seconds after walking back to the computer .... all i can say is DUR!!!

 

[Cheezeit]

Hehe, i had the same DUR when i first installed my tuniq.

 

[WaTaGuMp]

Tuniq should just package the thing without the knob attached then people wouldnt have the DUR moments.

 

[trOver]

Originally posted by: Cheezeit
Hehe, i had the same DUR when i first installed my tuniq.

count me in for that too...

 

[VinDSL]

Heh!

DUR vs RTFM

If I remember correctly, it tells you to remove the knob in the instructions. Hold on...

Nope! No mention of it in the INSTALLATION GUIDE...

Hrm...

I digress: CHECK THIS OUT

I'm always looking for ways to 'use up' the 10 x 5.25" external bays in my MM U2-UFO case...

I could buy some of these 'Sanctums' and get rid of the 9 x 5.25" removable bay - don't really need 19 drive bays, you know?

Anyway, glad you figured out the removable aluminum knob thing. Tuniq SHOULD have included this in their manual!

 

[Idontcare]

Originally posted by: WaTaGuMp
Tuniq should just package the thing without the knob attached then people wouldnt have the DUR moments.

They probably did a focus group study and concluded the potential cost to them for RMA's by folks who think they got shipped an incomplete product outwieghed the cost of customer's being irritated but resigned to accept that their fan controller switch won't fit thru the case slot.

Its the kind of business decision I would make. Heck look who the OP initially blamed, the case manufacturing. Focus groups FTW!

 

[WaTaGuMp]

Originally posted by: Idontcare

Originally posted by: WaTaGuMp
Tuniq should just package the thing without the knob attached then people wouldnt have the DUR moments.

They probably did a focus group study and concluded the potential cost to them for RMA's by folks who think they got shipped an incomplete product outwieghed the cost of customer's being irritated but resigned to accept that their fan controller switch won't fit thru the case slot.

Its the kind of business decision I would make. Heck look who the OP initially blamed, the case manufacturing. Focus groups FTW!

Whats ironic is I actually didnt think about it that deep but more along the lines of the company thinking people would lose the knob if it wasnt attached. So we came to the same conclusion that the company might of thought something would happen if the knob wasnt attached.

 

[Idontcare]

What irritates me about the Tuniq fan is that you must have the manual fanspeed controller connected in order for the fan to spinup even if you never intend to use the manual fanspeed controller.

In my case I like having my DS3L mobo control the CPU fanspeed thru the CPU fan header on the mobo. It does a great job.

BUT I still have to have my tuniq fanspeed controller attached to the fan and thus becoming a liabilty for being accidentally knocked or banged or jostled and reducing the maximum fanspeed possible should the BIOS decide its time to go full-out.

Likewise I wonder how many Tuniq owners are out there thinking their Tuniq fan is keeping their CPU temps in check but the fans are actually not even turned on because the customer elected to not hookup the manual fanspeed controller.

A case with reasonable airflow would give all the appearances of a properly functioning Tuniq HSF from coretemp's perspective until the overclock was tightened up a few notches.

 

[WaTaGuMp]

Originally posted by: Idontcare
What irritates me about the Tuniq fan is that you must have the manual fanspeed controller connected in order for the fan to spinup even if you never intend to use the manual fanspeed controller.

In my case I like having my DS3L mobo control the CPU fanspeed thru the CPU fan header on the mobo. It does a great job.

BUT I still have to have my tuniq fanspeed controller attached to the fan and thus becoming a liabilty for being accidentally knocked or banged or jostled and reducing the maximum fanspeed possible should the BIOS decide its time to go full-out.

Likewise I wonder how many Tuniq owners are out there thinking their Tuniq fan is keeping their CPU temps in check but the fans are actually not even turned on because the customer elected to not hookup the manual fanspeed controller.

A case with reasonable airflow would give all the appearances of a properly functioning Tuniq HSF from coretemp's perspective until the overclock was tightened up a few notches.

I just said screw it and bought an aftermarket fan, it will have longer life its quiet and a highly rated fan. No dealing with adjusting the stock fan with the controller, no extra wires to hook up and hide, no worries about breaking the thing.

 

[Tullphan]

Funny...I bought a pre-owned Tuniq & they forgot to send the controller. I figured if I hooked it up w/o it, it'd just run @ full speed plugged into the cpu fan port on my mb.
I replaced the fan w/a Y-L & the temps are higher.
I also noticed when I swapped out the fans that the old fan was blowing towards the front (if it was indeed running).

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: Tullphan
Funny...I bought a pre-owned Tuniq & they forgot to send the controller. I figured if I hooked it up w/o it, it'd just run @ full speed plugged into the cpu fan port on my mb.
I replaced the fan w/a Y-L & the temps are higher.
I also noticed when I swapped out the fans that the old fan was blowing towards the front (if it was indeed running).

they probably just threw a jumper on the header for the controller. Thats what I used to do with thermaltake fans that required the fan speed controller or the thermal probe to be attached to run.

 

[Idontcare]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12

Originally posted by: Tullphan
Funny...I bought a pre-owned Tuniq & they forgot to send the controller. I figured if I hooked it up w/o it, it'd just run @ full speed plugged into the cpu fan port on my mb.
I replaced the fan w/a Y-L & the temps are higher.
I also noticed when I swapped out the fans that the old fan was blowing towards the front (if it was indeed running).

they probably just threw a jumper on the header for the controller. Thats what I used to do with thermaltake fans that required the fan speed controller or the thermal probe to be attached to run.

That's yet another stroker of genius by the Sunbeam crew...the speedcontroller conenction on the fan are the female end of the arrangement.

The male end of the connection (the one which can be shorted by a jumper) is on the manual speedcontroller end of the connection.

I know because I thought to attempt the same "fix-it" solution.

It is completely the opposite of the Thermaltake fans where the header on the fan comes already equipped with a jumper...they can do that because they intelligently designed the header on the fan to be the male connection.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: Idontcare

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12

Originally posted by: Tullphan
Funny...I bought a pre-owned Tuniq & they forgot to send the controller. I figured if I hooked it up w/o it, it'd just run @ full speed plugged into the cpu fan port on my mb.
I replaced the fan w/a Y-L & the temps are higher.
I also noticed when I swapped out the fans that the old fan was blowing towards the front (if it was indeed running).

they probably just threw a jumper on the header for the controller. Thats what I used to do with thermaltake fans that required the fan speed controller or the thermal probe to be attached to run.

That's yet another stroker of genius by the Sunbeam crew...the speedcontroller conenction on the fan are the female end of the arrangement.

The male end of the connection (the one which can be shorted by a jumper) is on the manual speedcontroller end of the connection.

I know because I thought to attempt the same "fix-it" solution.

It is completely the opposite of the Thermaltake fans where the header on the fan comes already equipped with a jumper...they can do that because they intelligently designed the header on the fan to be the male connection.

wow, i wish there was another way to put it but, thats just dumb. were i to buy one of these, I would just hack off the header all together, solder the two wires together and put a prett piece of heatshrink over it. I have a front pannel 4 fan controller that does 7-12v, I have a handmade controller that does 5-12v for up to 5 fans and my motherboard will control 3 fans from, as best I can tell 7-12v, i don't need another cheap potentiometer hagning out the back of my case.