• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Need Help with "Dream" Water-Cooling Solution

C

Caveman

Platinum Member
Okay... Big Sale going on...

http://www.xoxide.com/watcoolcas1.html

Looking for help to build a dream watercooling solution for my nect PC. Please advise.

Facts:

1) "Dream" means meet the requirements with some margin... Get best bang for the buck. Not looking to throw money down drain...

2) Goal is to reach 4.0 GHz on water.

3) I've built a few PCs but have been out of touch with all the architechture changes in the paast 3-4 years (note hardware in sig).

4) I've never built a water-cooled system but I'm a mechanical engineering and should eb able to figure it out with some direction.

5) I'd like expandability to cool GPUs, and other areas of the PC than just CPU...

6) Thinking of getting either the i5 750, i920 or i975 (to maintain 1366 future-proofing)

This needs to be in Cases and Cooling. I will move it for you,.

Markfw900
Anandtech Moderator
 
Originally posted by: Caveman
Okay... Big Sale going on...

http://www.xoxide.com/watcoolcas1.html

Looking for help to build a dream watercooling solution for my nect PC. Please advise.

Facts:

1) "Dream" means meet the requirements with some margin... Get best bang for the buck. Not looking to throw money down drain...

2) Goal is to reach 4.0 GHz on water.

3) I've built a few PCs but have been out of touch with all the architechture changes in the paast 3-4 years (note hardware in sig).

4) I've never built a water-cooled system but I'm a mechanical engineering and should eb able to figure it out with some direction.

5) I'd like expandability to cool GPUs, and other areas of the PC than just CPU...

6) Thinking of getting either the i5 750, i920 or i975 (to maintain 1366 future-proofing)
Click to expand...

Watercooling is not a magical solution to reach a certain clock. Unless you are thermally limited on your current OC, there is no point in getting water to "reach 4GHz".

Aside from that, I suggest you skim through the cases and cooling section, read the stickies as most of the rest has already been covered.
 
Be happy > Buy a computer > learn to overclock > buy a better HS/fan > overclock more > buy WCing > overclock more > buy faster computer parts > Overclock more > Buy better WCing > Overclock more > Buy phase change and more coputer parts > Overclock more > Try LN2, and buy massive amounts of new parts > overclock a lot more > Fire up that old 939 system you storred away in the basement, put the stock HS/fan back on > Be happy.

I'm at phase chand and Dice now, I think I'll be getting back to happy shortly!
 
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Originally posted by: Caveman
Okay... Big Sale going on...

http://www.xoxide.com/watcoolcas1.html

Looking for help to build a dream watercooling solution for my nect PC. Please advise.

Facts:

1) "Dream" means meet the requirements with some margin... Get best bang for the buck. Not looking to throw money down drain...

2) Goal is to reach 4.0 GHz on water.

3) I've built a few PCs but have been out of touch with all the architechture changes in the paast 3-4 years (note hardware in sig).

4) I've never built a water-cooled system but I'm a mechanical engineering and should eb able to figure it out with some direction.

5) I'd like expandability to cool GPUs, and other areas of the PC than just CPU...

6) Thinking of getting either the i5 750, i920 or i975 (to maintain 1366 future-proofing)
Click to expand...

Watercooling is not a magical solution to reach a certain clock. Unless you are thermally limited on your current OC, there is no point in getting water to "reach 4GHz".

Aside from that, I suggest you skim through the cases and cooling section, read the stickies as most of the rest has already been covered.
Click to expand...

I agree with Gilbot, that WCing is no magical ticket to the big 4 0, and also would like to point out, there is no such thing as future proofing. Even if the Sockets stay the same (which they change), then the VRM specs or other important things change, making you unable to upgrade (view 680i to 45nm quads for example).

But if you know what you want, the block will have a different plate for an i7/i5.

AND READ AIGO'S STICKY

But for example, a good loop would be:

Radiator: XSPC RX240 or RX360
CPU Block: I have no clue what the best current block is. I have a Swiftech Apogee GTZ but I have heard the HK Rev 3.0 is a good block for loops with a GPU.
Pump: Swiftech MCP355 w/ XSPC Pump top
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRes Rev 2
Barbs: DangerDen FatBoy G1/4 1/2" OD Fittings
Tubing: 7/16" MasterKleer or Tygon
T-line for draining
Hose clamps: Worm Gear or Nylon

 
Thanks for input folks.

I think comment about 4GHz on water was misinterpreted...

Assuming I get a decent OC stepping and a good mobo then I should be able to get 4GHz on water... I've seen a few posts of folks getting close to that on air... Water just represents greater margin.

I'm not troubled by the science.

The difficulty comes from having no experience with 1 brand/solution vs the rest and was looking for specific recommendations based on requirements.

That info is very helpful... Thanks again.

BTW, I wanted to do OCZ Phase change but that just never materialized AFAIK... And probably too expensive to meet best bang for buck criteria.
 
Originally posted by: Caveman
Thanks for input folks.

I think comment about 4GHz on water was misinterpreted...

Assuming I get a decent OC stepping and a good mobo then I should be able to get 4GHz on water... I've seen a few posts of folks getting close to that on air... Water just represents greater margin.

I'm not troubled by the science.

The difficulty comes from having no experience with 1 brand/solution vs the rest and was looking for specific recommendations based on requirements.

That info is very helpful... Thanks again.

BTW, I wanted to do OCZ Phase change but that just never materialized AFAIK... And probably too expensive to meet best bang for buck criteria.
Click to expand...

NO, as I said unless you are thermally limited, water will NOT increase your clocks.

I had a Q6600 G0 that topped out at 3.4GHz under a freezer 7 pro. I put it under a water block and guess what, it topped out at.... wait for it... 3.4GHz. Water cooling will NOT ADD CLOCK SPEED.
 
You are better off getting another CPU if you need water cooling to hit 4GHz IMO.

The goal is to get your CPU up to where it requires enough voltage while still being stable but at unacceptable temperatures. THEN water cooling can keep you going at that speed reliably on a continuous basis.

For example I have a W3520 that's 24/7 stable at 4.4GHz with a Prolimatech Megahalems. It will hit 80C under load. (Linpack) I can go even higher (1.3Vcore now) but the increased Vcore makes the temps soar like an eagle. It would probably do 4.5 or 4.6GHz stable with water. Since I'm not allowed to use water (long story, don't ask!) I have to settle for 4.4 which I must say is not shabby at all! 😉

Of course there is NOTHING wrong with getting wet to explore another part of the hobby altogether. Plumbing in a computer is fascinating on its own. 😉
 
Originally posted by: Rubycon
You are better off getting another CPU if you need water cooling to hit 4GHz IMO.

The goal is to get your CPU up to where it requires enough voltage while still being stable but at unacceptable temperatures. THEN water cooling can keep you going at that speed reliably on a continuous basis.

For example I have a W3520 that's 24/7 stable at 4.4GHz with a Prolimatech Megahalems. It will hit 80C under load. (Linpack) I can go even higher (1.3Vcore now) but the increased Vcore makes the temps soar like an eagle. It would probably do 4.5 or 4.6GHz stable with water. Since I'm not allowed to use water (long story, don't ask!) I have to settle for 4.4 which I must say is not shabby at all! 😉

Of course there is NOTHING wrong with getting wet to explore another part of the hobby altogether. Plumbing in a computer is fascinating on its own. 😉
Click to expand...

Exactly, I just hate it when people fall into the internet trap and believe watercooling will yield more speed. 90+% of the time, people are highly disappointed when it does not and they usually blame the cooling.
 
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Originally posted by: Rubycon
You are better off getting another CPU if you need water cooling to hit 4GHz IMO.

The goal is to get your CPU up to where it requires enough voltage while still being stable but at unacceptable temperatures. THEN water cooling can keep you going at that speed reliably on a continuous basis.

For example I have a W3520 that's 24/7 stable at 4.4GHz with a Prolimatech Megahalems. It will hit 80C under load. (Linpack) I can go even higher (1.3Vcore now) but the increased Vcore makes the temps soar like an eagle. It would probably do 4.5 or 4.6GHz stable with water. Since I'm not allowed to use water (long story, don't ask!) I have to settle for 4.4 which I must say is not shabby at all! 😉

Of course there is NOTHING wrong with getting wet to explore another part of the hobby altogether. Plumbing in a computer is fascinating on its own. 😉
Click to expand...

Exactly, I just hate it when people fall into the internet trap and believe watercooling will yield more speed. 90+% of the time, people are highly disappointed when it does not and they usually blame the cooling.
Click to expand...

Yes. But it does yield better temperatures overall, even if there is no increase in clock speed. 50C load is very nice. Just don't get Aigo'd and change your hardware and cooling every generation.
 
But as I said, better temps != a better OC unless you are thermally limited. If your air cooler can hold an OC under 60-70C, there isn't much point in adding water cooling because the cost won't gain unless you need the temperature headroom and don't mind the extra cost of the water cooling hardware.
 
I'm like you OP. I've been out of the loop for 3-4 years running an opty 165 o/c'd to 2.7 on a good watercooling rig the whole time. Watercooling kept my cpu/case temps down and looks exotic but there's maintenance that needs to be done occasionally and it just plain gets in the way if you want to change out a new video card or ram or especially a cpu. At least it was in my case.
One day it developed a very small, unnoticeable leak whick took out the mb and the sound card. One day it was fine, the next it was fried. I got a used mb and s/c, yanked out the w/c rig and installed a cheap $12.99 Arctic hsf. Temps run about 8 C hotter but guess what, same overclock!
I'm now building an Intel E5200 (don't laugh) Gigabyte P45 rig and am facing a dilemma. To go back to watercooling I need to buy a new Swiftech MCP655 pump for about $90.00 and always have that risk of another disaster or go with a Vigor Monsoon III for $62.00 and forget about the hassles with watercooling.
 
OCing is an action that's intrinsically thermally limited. That's not to say there aren't other factors involved...

All other things being equal, a cooler system will help one more easily obtain a more stable OC at any given clock speed. For purposes of discussion, this is what I'm calling margin...
 
Originally posted by: Caveman
OCing is an action that's intrinsically thermally limited. That's not to say there aren't other factors involved...

All other things being equal, a cooler system will help one more easily obtain a more stable OC at any given clock speed. For purposes of discussion, this is what I'm calling margin...
Click to expand...

Yes the margin is quite high at stock. As you increase your clock speed higher you have less margin for higher room temperature, dust on cooling fins, etc. Also other parts of the cpu that are not used frequently can start to produce erroneous results sooner, etc.

That's why it's always better to push to the limit until you're unstable then back down to where you get stable and note settings. Then drop back slightly for margin.

Some like to run right on the edge of the fence like walking on a tightrope every day. I guess this is OK if you're not doing anything of importance with your computer and can endure a crash here and there, etc.
 
Originally posted by: Caveman
OCing is an action that's intrinsically thermally limited. That's not to say there aren't other factors involved...

All other things being equal, a cooler system will help one more easily obtain a more stable OC at any given clock speed. For purposes of discussion, this is what I'm calling margin...
Click to expand...

Yes, to some extent. It is not always the processor that limits the OC though. The OP indicates using water cooling to reach a certain clock on a CPU. As I said, water cooling is not a magic elixer to reach xGHz.
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
@ Elvis2 - 7/16 ID by 5/8 OD over 1/2 ID Fatboy barbs won't leak.
Click to expand...

except you still need clamps. Mine worked themselves off and the pump proceeded to push the remainder of the coolant onto my optical drives and my floor.
 
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
@ Elvis2 - 7/16 ID by 5/8 OD over 1/2 ID Fatboy barbs won't leak.
Click to expand...

except you still need clamps. Mine worked themselves off and the pump proceeded to push the remainder of the coolant onto my optical drives and my floor.
Click to expand...

lol something aint right with your h20 system - what on earth put that much pressure on that tubing!?!?!?!!

I can hang a 50# weight on the end of my tubing and hold the barb and it won't come off (no clamping, zip-tieing etc. of anykind) , lol - ... well, something is different between our setups, that's for sure
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
@ Elvis2 - 7/16 ID by 5/8 OD over 1/2 ID Fatboy barbs won't leak.
Click to expand...

Possibly, but it wasn't the barbs that leaked. It was the mating surface between the acrylic face plate and the copper cooler on the TDX.
I'm still in a quandry between the Monsoon and just buying a new pump for my w/c rig.
I bought a Swiftech Apogee GTZ and am wary of the construction. You have to install your own barb's (3/8 or 1/2 that come with it) and of course they're o-ringed but they thread sloppily into a plastic face over the copper cooler. I'm thinking of using teflon tape on the threads but how hard do you tighten the barbs? You don't want to squash the "o" rings.

It just seems like they're too many "if's". Like I said, I've been w/c'g and o/c'g for years but it only takes one time for an expensive system failure caused by a very minor leak that turned catastrophic that will cause you to reevaluate the benefits.
I tried a Tunig 120 a couple of years ago and sent it right back. What a pos that was.

Anyone here have experience with the Vigor Monsoon III or the Swifty GTZ waterblock?

And btw, clamp everything for Pete's sake. You guys nutz? Don't use those metal hose clamps you get at a car supply store. They can eventually cut into the hose itself causing a major leak. Use those black plastic "squeeze" claps. They remain tight longer and DON"T CUT THE HOSE!

Tia 😉

 
Originally posted by: Elvis2
You have to install your own barb's (3/8 or 1/2 that come with it) and of course they're o-ringed but they thread sloppily into a plastic face over the copper cooler. I'm thinking of using teflon tape on the threads but how hard do you tighten the barbs? You don't want to squash the "o" rings.
Click to expand...

You do want to squash the O-ring. That's the whole point; its the O-ring which provides the seal. The barbs should be screwed tight into the water block without cracking the plastic on the water block.

I wouldn't use PTFE tape if the barbs have O-rings because the tape can compromise the seal of the O-ring.

Edit: I also use metal worm clamps. Yes, it does cut into the tubing a little, but the tubing has such a thick wall it would be difficult to cut through it using just the clamp.
 
Originally posted by: soccerballtux
I routinely hose down my computer in the sink (to remove dust) using the dish-sprayer, and plug it right back in. Good as new! The extra evaporation helps keep the PC a little cooler than normal too-- it's like water cooling!

That's funny. I'm sure we've all heard the rumor about the guy that siliconed the edges of his entire case and filled his computer with water....

I have a funny story to tell about my first watercooling experience. It wasn't funny then. I was freaked out! 🙂 .
I bought a Thermaltake Aquarius w/c kit when they first came out for around $100.00. I think I was running 2.8 Northwood at the time with a $400.00 Extasy Ti4600 video card. I install the system, commence o/c'g it to 3.2 ghz. and start gaming. After about an hour, I start getting these wierd artifacts on the screen. I immediately shut down and used a flashlight to look into my side window. And there it was.... a puddle on my new $400.00 video card. I freaked. I dried it off, started the rig up and found that the leak was caused by a cross threaded barb from the factory. I yanked out the w/c stuff, reinstalled my hsf, dried off the card, sprayed it with electrical cleaner and plugged it back in. Started everything up and it was fine. For about thirty seconds and then artifacts galore. I remove the card, wiped it off some more and it then lasted about two minutes. I was beside myself. Kinda hard to explain a wasted $400.00 to the wife. I figured I had nothing to loose. I swear this is the truth. I filled the kitchen sink with hot soapy water and just tossed the card in. It sat there all night. The next morning I rinsed it off, dryed it with my wifes hair dryer and it worked perfectly for another three months. Then I sold it! Unbelievable but I'm not about to try it with my 4870 X 2!
 
Originally posted by: Gillbot
I would never run a loop without clamps, and I won't use zip-ties either. Worm drive CLAMPS only for me.
Click to expand...

Still no leaks on my setup. I only have one set of zip ties and that's around the CPU block barbs - lol, like i need them.

 
I just pulled the trigger on a Vigor Monsoon III LT. The rig I'm building is virtually the same as Anandtech's review of Gigabyte's GA-EP45-UD3P mb Test setup except for the case, CPU, and os ( for now). I'm using a $65.00 Dual Core E5200 ( gotta luv that 12.5 multiplier) and an old school Antec SX 830 case.
I have however, decided on keeping all of my custom Swiftech watercooling hardware. Apogee GTZ cpu wb (new), Swifty 5.25 bay res, Talgon 1/2 id tubing with blue uv coils (new), outside rad box, Black Ice rad, Thermaltake adj. 120mm blue led fan.
If I'm not happy with the numbers from the Vigor, I'll return/sell it, buy a new Swifty MCP655B and go back to watercooling.
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
Originally posted by: Gillbot
I would never run a loop without clamps, and I won't use zip-ties either. Worm drive CLAMPS only for me.
Click to expand...

Still no leaks on my setup. I only have one set of zip ties and that's around the CPU block barbs - lol, like i need them.
Click to expand...

Best of luck to you. Though as I said:
I would never run a loop without clamps, and I won't use zip-ties either.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top