Need Help with Computer Desk

[Belial88]

Hi, I'd like to have an awesome computer desk and was hoping for some help here. I'd like to get a computer desk, but I don't think I can buy what I'm looking for. Something that fits 3 monitors at least, enough space for working (lots of solder, dremel, etc work), and some space for eating lol. Every desk I've looked at online, is tiny, or looks extremely tacky with the small drawers or cd/book racks or w/e, and the only things that look half decent, are just straight tables.

I was thinking of doing something like a glass or acrylic table, and mounting it to the wall or partial wall mount. I really don't know what to do - how to cut glass, where to get it, what to make the stands out of. I know, search, believe me I have and I've lived on /r/battlestations for the last 3 months, but I just need a lot more help brainstorming and such here. Even most of the tables/desks I see on r/battlestations look awful imo.

Anyways, here's info on what's up with my build and room:

Heavily modded case (removed hdd/cd bay for h110, lots of 3528 led, window, servo actuator for side panel, etc):

as you can see. 3 monitors.

I just finished painted my ~12x10ft room eggshell neutral dark gray for color accuracy:

However I need a better desk, a wide one for workspace, etc. I was thinking of doing something where I had rails or mounts coming from the wall, and I basically just place a big piece of glass on top. Or maybe have the glass suspended by wire from the ceiling.

Here's what I'm currently using (all the boxes are parts used in current build):

I also hate the sliding keyboard, I never use it... too unstable for anything.

I'll also need work lighting.

 

[mfenn]

How is this any different from your other thread?

 

[piasabird]

Maybe something like this?

http://www.officedepot.com/a/product...ection-L-Desk/

I had an office workspace once that basically was a counter with no shelves under it. It was supported on the side with walls and you could adjust the counter top at different levels. They also had lower 2 drawer file cabinets you could slide under it.
Maybe look at these pictures. Kind of like kitchen counter with an office chair.

 

[Belial88]

^ Too thin, not good as a work station, and it's ugly.

I think I'm really gonna have to go with a DIY glass or wood table of some kind. Maybe acrylic. I'm not sure where to go. Need help with brainstorming ideas, suggestions, etc.

 

[dawza]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2541694/IMG_00000033.jpg

Back when that was taken, this worked for two people. Desk is a Workrite Sierra pin height adjustable cockpit corner model. The longest side is about 7', I believe. Was ~1.3K shipped.

They have a ton of other models available, or you could go DIY with some table bases and butcher block tops.

 

[Belial88]

I think I'm going to have to make it you guise. I basically have 9x9 of totally free sq space

So I think I can use MDF or plywood. Prime (non-water i guess), interior paint, then a polycrylic, ie wood sealer on top. Or laminate (i believe that's what ikea tables use). I think I'd prefer laminate maybe?

I know what they use for the edges, is called 'table edge banding', and is pretty easy to obtain. I think.

So from there it's a matter of design and support. It doesn't necessarily have to be built into the wall, just whatever is best (whatever best may be). I'm thinking just having a 3-way table, with corner pieces with bends in them to transition to each table. U shape i guess.

Not sure what supports to use. I wouldn't be opposed to buying the supports, like ikea ones but i dont really see anything special.

And then... I'm envisioning a shelf thing on top of the table for monitors. Not sure how it'd be mounted...

The vision... it's fuzzy...

 

[dawza]

No idea what your budget is, but you could do worse than browse around:

http://www.benchdepot.com/

An epoxy resin top immediately comes to mind as an ideal surface for your use case (work plus soldering). You can add accessories to your heart's content, including shelving rails, lighting, drawers, power, etc.

Be warned that shipping adds significantly to their base prices, depending on distance. But could be helpful to get ideas, if nothing else.

 

[Bubbleawsome]

If you could sketch a general idea of what you want, shape wise and stuff, it would be rasier to tell.

 

[piasabird]

I like older desks because they are deeper. Some new desks have no depth and it is like you are sitting at a kids table. I went to a friends house they they had just a plain table but it was sturdy. It cold easily fit 2 large twin flat panel monitors and a compter. Sometimes some places in cities have used office furniture or second hand furniture stores. Sometimes you can find something at a yard sale. Just cruise around on Saturday.

Could go with something like this. It is more like a big table. Plus you can put your chair anywhere if you have twin monitors. You can just use a file cabinet a side table or whatever you want with it. Maybe just go to a an office max and look around to see something like you want.

http://www.wayfair.com/Jesper-Office-Managers-Executive-Desk-X16332-JJP1117.html

I have my computer on an old kitcen table. It is a little bigger, Thicker and sturdier than this

http://www.wayfair.com/TMS-Nook-Dining-Table-40096BLK-TXR1117.html
Someone gave it to me for free.

 

[Belial88]

Okay guys, here's my vision:

a 12x9 room. There's some odd shaping, so effectively 9x9 of free space to play with. I make 3 tables, that wrap around the walls.

So big 8 or 9ft table in front of me, then to my left, a thinner table. Maybe I just put food on it, maybe small items I'm working on. Then, behind me, a large desk as well.

I'm thinking 3 feet wide x 8-9 for the main table
16" to 24" for the secondary table (if it's too long, hard to get into that corner. Not a big deal, but I think it ends up restricting space more than giving it. This part of the table will be really short though.
Then the 'behind' table is going to be ~6 feet long, with a heavy slant in it.

As you can see in the room pic, hallway. If it was 9ft long it'd block it, so 6 ft to not block it, and angled on the outer edge so as to make it easier to go from hallway to computer (ie dont have to walk around a desk edge a bit).

I think I'm going to use formica. Formica is a plastic laminate, it's a very thin, durable material used on stuff like school desks, ikea furniture, and non-stone kitchen countertops and stuff. It's usually made to look like wood or stone/marble, but you have solid colors available too. You usually see it on particleboard, you'll see it kinda break off like paper (but that's the particleboard snapping it when it's snapped, not the formica itself being weak). You just glue it on with w/e.

I'm not sure on a color, I got a bunch of swatches to see for color, but probably going to go with matte black for visibility of screws, etc (I could do gray or chrome though).
* It's highly durable. If I were to paint wood, the wood would be susceptible to denting, cuts, and burns.
* I don't want a wood look, I think it wouldn't look good with a modded computer, etc kind of look. Not saying wood can't look modern or good with computers, but I also don't want it to look like some law office. I have red oak hardwood floors (ie deep reddish hue), which look great, but I just don't think it'd match with a desk (and ofc, not going to mix wood stains...).
* Cheap! I think I'm looking at like $30-50 for a sheet to cover my 3x9 desk, so maybe an extra $20-40 sheet would do everything else.

I mean it really comes down to it being durable. My gf says it looks cheap. I disagree, I think just the other options - wood, and marble/stone, looks really freaking good and is very expensive, and doesn't go with the look I want (solid color, basically). This is really a function based build, as well as utilitarian aesthetic.

of course, I'm open to using alternate materials, or different materials on parts of the table. I was thinking about maybe some sort of stone like granite or marble on one of the small tables for just like a 2x2 spot, for solder work.

For table itself, a piece of plywood 4x8 (cut to 3x8 for main table) $30 Lowes. I've come to the conclusion that particleboard sucks...for everything. No really, it does. My current desk sat in a garage for a week during a move, and it swelled up and blew off the banding, before then there were swelling spots, etc. particleboard just sucks. It's cheap, but it's really not that much cheaper... I picked a ply that's a step up from particleboard, there's $50 ply but it's main point is being finished and smooth, whcih I don't care if I'm using formica.

As for table banding, I'm not sure. There's melanine, I could buy that ($25 ebay) but eh. I think I would like some sort of metal banding, just not sure where and what at the moment. Maybe some gray-metal/pewter stuff would be cool, or gray.

I'm not really sure on legs, but I'm envisioning a grayish-metal... a satin nickel, pewtered nickel... I'll have to buy it from somewhere, Lowes doesn't carry table legs (other than wood). I have no idea what design to go for on supports but I'm not too worried about it right now honestly. I'm still not sure how to do it, but I think I want to be able to move this desk if I wanted to. I mean, I want it to be as awesome as possible, and thus permanance is completely acceptable, but I don't see the advantage to wall mounting vs normal mounting is what I mean. Maybe just T-legs, I'm really not picky on the legs.

As for features, other, that I want to do:
* Monitor shelf. 9inch plywood, up 6" (a mid-atx is ~8.5", most monitor bases seem to be 6-8", maybe slightly more. PLEASE let me know if this is not the case, and I do not want overhanging monitor bases either. Just happens to be that way for my u2312hm and few other monitors I have). Not sure on supports. Formicated/banded slats of plywood (maybe turn the space under it into a bunch of drawers!), maybe aluminum rods... Have it run around with all 3 tables.

* Computer lazy susan! At the end of main table, have a sweet lazy susan for the computer. I'm not sure what material I'd use, I was thinking frosted glass. My computer, with it's under-side LEDs, would look great on the frosted glass. Such an awesome idea, my gf came up with it. Totally doing this. We'll worry about this later though, I can always add this to the build at a future date.

* Kill-A-Watt clearly visible. I just need a single out/extension for this. I want the kill-a-watt to be very apparent on the desk. Maybe I'd make, underneath one of the monitor shelves, a little housing for it so you don't see the plugs (front or back), just the buttons and screen. That'd be great.

As for all other outlets, I'm considering incorporating outlets into the desk or a surge protector, but it all kinda seems silly when I can buy a rail surge protector and throw it on the build or under it very simply, or just tape a surge protector underneath. I'd love to find an excuse to like have outlets built into the desk but I just don't really see it. Like I know there's a thing on Kickstarter for a "Paradise Desk" and a big selling point is that it has USB and power outlets on the desk. It has 4, 5 outlets, I mean imo that's just near useless and a waste and kinda silly for some 'ubertable'.

I mean I guess I'll throw outlets all over the desk. It's super easy to do and I dont need to worry about it now (cut hole, throw painted outlet box in hole, put outlet in, cover with painted/prepainted plate, have the outlet wired to a spliced up cut-off power cable and then simply plug that into whatever.

TLDR
* 3 part desk - going from front/left/behind, 3x8ft, 4x1.5ft, 2x6ft (w/angle at outter edge).
* Formica covering for durability and solid color(~$30-50 to cover main desk)
* Plywood
* Need Metallic Table banding, unsure
* Need Metalic Table legs, unsure
* Computer Monitor Shelf (6" high, 9" deep, unsure of supports)
* Future work - automated lazy susan, shelving under monitor shelf, outlets, housed kill-a-watt

edit: black formicate, orange band. Crazy right? I think that'd look pretty awesome...

 

[Belial88]

thanks piasa for the info. That 2nd desk looks awful. I need big, big, big, everything I see is freaking tiny. I can barely fit 3 monitors and my desk on my 63" desk, and they are all 3 small monitors. It's deeper than most at 31" but I'm just cramped all the time on my current desk. I need WAY more space.

There's also some things like a monitor shelf that I want that I really don't see in desks. I'm really surprised that zero good desks exists. Even the Paradise desk is crap, in my opinion (small, fragile material, too little of the few features it has like power outlets that aren't very noteworthy anyways).

I mean I think I really need a custom desk to make something awesome here. I'm just talking about the basics, but stuff like a computer mount of some sort (lazy susan, but anything really), a monitor shelf, a few outlets, a way bigger size and more depth, adjustable height, built in wiring and cable management, that should exist on all desks. I mean we are just seeing cars and stuff implement USB, like 6 years after the fact, now everyone is moving past USB and most products use 12v so now USB is pretty useless in terms of accessory power, and usb 2.0 is kinda useless when we're talking usb 3.0 for data transfer.

An epoxy resin top immediately comes to mind as an ideal surface for your use case (work plus soldering). You can add accessories to your heart's content, including shelving rails, lighting, drawers, power, etc.

Be warned that shipping adds significantly to their base prices, depending on distance. But could be helpful to get ideas, if nothing else.

What is epoxy resin? Is that just like sealant? As I understand, the only thing really soldering-proof would be non-porous tile/stone. I'm considering putting a recess for a 2x2 tile insert or something for solder work. I'd need further clarification on what you mean.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2541694/IMG_00000033.jpg

Back when that was taken, this worked for two people. Desk is a Workrite Sierra pin height adjustable cockpit corner model. The longest side is about 7', I believe. Was ~1.3K shipped.

They have a ton of other models available, or you could go DIY with some table bases and butcher block tops.

Desk is too thin.

And I don't know if this is just me, but I hate keyboard pull-outs. They aren't stable enough for gaming or hardcore forum posting. I suppose you could do something about that, but I just don't like the height they sit at. I'd rather the whole desk was at the right level.

I mean I just use my keyboard slide-out as a shelf, i get it's to save space, just use it to put stuff on instead of the other way around, but it's not a drawer so things fall off easily ;/

It would basically be a downgrade from the Ikea desk I'm currently using though, which is 31.5x63". That thing is just smaller.

The price is too high for something that isn't perfect. However, I strongly appreciate the recommendation, it helps me realize what I want and to look for.

No idea what your budget is, but you could do worse than browse around:

http://www.benchdepot.com/

An epoxy resin top immediately comes to mind as an ideal surface for your use case (work plus soldering). You can add accessories to your heart's content, including shelving rails, lighting, drawers, power, etc.

Be warned that shipping adds significantly to their base prices, depending on distance. But could be helpful to get ideas, if nothing else.

That's a very helpful link, the way they explain the parts let's me know what to buy. So I need 't-molding'. The prices are decent (not sure what the shipping is though). I sent them an email about if I could buy just the frame.

Do I need a crossbar? this is a bit confusing to me.

 

[dawza]

1. Desk too thin: If you mean not sufficiently deep, yes, I agree. And the price is high-- I would rather have gone with more industrial butcher block/epoxy resin, but I have to balance what I want and what the boss (wife) finds acceptable.

2. Keyboard trays: Definitely a personal preference, although the better (but more expensive) KB arms are rock-solid if properly mounted.

3. Epoxy resin: If you remember high school/college chemistry lab benches-- that's the best reference I can think of. These are standard fare for chemical/physical abuse resistance. They're solid surfaces that withstand intense and direct chemical attack, heat, and impact. In grad school, I used to perform impromtu animal (non-survival) surgery equipment sterilization with ethanol + 900 degree F forced hot air from a heat gun directly on the exoxy resin bench tops. These surfaces withstand concentrated acids, bases, oxidizing agents, UV, liquid nitrogen, and flame.

If you're looking to DIY, there's no reason you can't just get some hard maple butcher block tops and steel bases. Attach bases to tops. I've "built" coffee, side, and dining tables in this exact way, and end up with real wood surfaces that are stable for a fraction of what the upscale retailers charge.

I've done business with this guy:

http://kpetersen.com/

who specializes in restaurant and hospitality tables. He sells bases and tops with quite reasonable shipping charges and base prices.

For power, you can easily screw in Tripp-Lite power strips if you go with hardwood butcher block. I actually would go with hardwood vs. epoxy resin, since you can easily drill/attach things into hardwood. And for less money if you go with maple/ash/oak.

 

[Belial88]

I dont really want a wooden look. What about a table covered with formica (or w/e, currently leaning towards formica) and epoxy resin on top?

What exactly is epoxy resin, how much is it? Couldnt I just use normal polycrylic floor sealant with 2-5 coats?

I mean a piece of plywood + formica is about $60, and will be much higher quality than an ikea table or most furniture.. I don't think a butcher blockis really necessary, it'd just add a ton of weight and I'd be covering over it anyways. I mean the table is pretty replaceable as ply+formica.

 

[Carson Dyle]

We really need a budget. Are you looking to spend $350 at Office Depot, or are you looking for design ideas that you can take to a local furniture builder and are willing to spend $3500? Big difference.

Ideas: A nice, heavy butcherblock top resting on file cabinets. You will need the drawer space and it doesn't look too ghetto. You can get the butcherblock online or from a local millwork shop or furniture builder. The latter avoids what may be expensive shipping, but can let you customize the size precisely. You can also buy metal legs, again either online, or have them fabricated locally.

For something a bit more ready-made, check out the desks from Room and Board. Not cheap, but they can be had in a lot of different sizes and in a number of different materials and colors.

 

[Carson Dyle]

I dont really want a wooden look. What about a table covered with formica (or w/e, currently leaning towards formica) and epoxy resin on top?

What exactly is epoxy resin, how much is it? Couldnt I just use normal polycrylic floor sealant with 2-5 coats?

I mean a piece of plywood + formica is about $60, and will be much higher quality than an ikea table or most furniture.. I don't think a butcher blockis really necessary, it'd just add a ton of weight and I'd be covering over it anyways. I mean the table is pretty replaceable as ply+formica.

No, you wouldn't laminate formica over a finished butcher block top, although I wouldn't sweat about the weight. Ideally, you _want_ something substantial. A plywood top would look and work terrible, as it's very unlikely to lie flat by itself and you'd also need to finish the edges. For something like that, a hollow core door is a good starting point. If white is ok, you can easily find them with melamine finishes and be done, but you can easily laminate them with any surface you like.

With the idea of having three monitors, plus having usable desk space while working at the computer, the only good solution (IMO) is to have either an L-shaped desk, or else have a desk in front of you and additional desktop space behind you.

If you plan on having no keyboard drawer, there are a couple of considerations: First, the depth of the main desk will need to be greater than one with a keyboard drawer, as you'll need room for the keyboard, maybe room in front of that to rest your elbows, plus room behind for your monitors. Another important consideration is desktop height. I'm about 5'7" and I find that sitting at a standard 30" tall office desk, when the keyboard is on the desk, leaves my chair too high off the floor. Probably not an issue for someone taller, but if you're shorter, you might want to strive for something in the 27-28" range.

 

[Belial88]

Eh, budget can be whatever, but considering that it looks like I can build the perfect desk for around $100-200, you'd really have to sell me on something more than that. I'm sure I can get something more durable, but plywood + formica is more than tough enough for almost anything.

I would like to put 2x2 or 4x4 tile down for solder work on part of the table though. I think I'll have to straight cut a hole out, then put some 1x4s under it , then some 1x4's on top of those. Not sure on adhesive or grout. I'd just use some marble/ very non porous stone that I'll seal before installing. Then I'll seal again to seal the grout.

Or maybe I won't have to use grout at all, I can find a single tile large enough, and then I'll cut the formica so as to lay over the edges. I'm not sure what size the tile insert would be but I'm thinking like 12x12 or 9x12 and put it on the thinner side table.

As for the monitor shelf that goes around, I think I'm going to support it using chrome rods. 2 rods spaced out every so often. I'd just drill a small hole/indention into the wood, and simply lay it on the tubes/rods with epoxy to really secure it.

For the built-in kill-a-watt, I just make a hole for the bottom half of the kill-a-watt. Stick it through, the top part is slightly larger and will hold it up. If I have to, paint the ply on the inside (so you don't peer into wood gut) but hopefully that won't be necessary due to a tight cut. Then use extension cables to get where things need to get. Probably put a decent tripplite protector underneath the table, with a few extensions out for outlets on the table.

resting on file cabinets.

I am open to using cabinets/drawers as stands but so far haven't seen anything I like. I think a level of adjustability is important here since I'm not sure what height would be perfect (ie whatever would, having me sitting up straight in a proper chair, have my arms at a 90* angle, lay on the table.

I mean I think a table with this much effort into it might need a level of adjustability in case of a move or sold. It's not like it'd cost me extra to do and it'd just be awful if I realized I was 1" off one day...I could still shove some cabinets under this table if it wasn't using them as support anyways, and I might put drawers under it anyways (it's just not a core feature is what I'm getting at, we can always add those later).

A plywood top would look and work terrible, as it's very unlikely to lie flat by itself and you'd also need to finish the edges. For something like that, a hollow core door is a good starting point. If white is ok, you can easily find them with melamine finishes and be done, but you can easily laminate them with any surface you like.

I'd just make sure to pick out a flat piece from the hardware store, that shouldn't be hard. As for the edges, right now I'm thinking of 'T-Mold' :

This would grant a slight curve (for comfort) to the table edge. I could also always route plywood if I wanted to finish the edges, but I don't really want a wood look here so there's not going to be any uncovered wood here.

I've heard about hollow core doors, but they are a bit too small.

I'm about 5'7" and I find that sitting at a standard 30" tall office desk, when the keyboard is on the desk, leaves my chair too high off the floor. Probably not an issue for someone taller, but if you're shorter, you might want to strive for something in the 27-28" range.

I'm 5'10".

So Dark Gray/Black desk/laminate with chrome legs, and orange banding and orange rods supporting the monitor shelf. Would that not look awesome? Or I could go with blue (it'd match my current build more). I saw a sweet kobalt broom or something that had chrome-blue handle, I almost bought it just to cut it up for this desk. My next build will likely be a white + color (orange, green, or blue, not sure atm). I could always replace the banding and those rods for aesthetic updates.

 

[Belial88]

Okay, so here's what I have in mind so far:

* Plywood $34 3x8ft
* Formica, Matte Gray 3x8ft ~$40. I'd just cut the plywood (4x8) on one side and hopefully ezpz fit. I'd actually prefer a 3x9ft table but no 9ft long sheets of plywood out there
* Use rubber table edge t-molding.
* I can buy screws that work by putting a 'thing' in a drilled hole, and then screwing a bolt into that. That way, no nuts/screws visible on the other side, as well as no damage to the wood by assemble/dissembling multiple times like ikea tables!
* For lazy susan thing, I can buy a rotating display stand and then a simple round frosted glass for ~$30+60. Pretty straightforward, no assembly. Just lay the glass thing on top of the stand on top of the table, maybe a hole for the wire and that's it. Maybe some tape/glue to keep it more secure.
* Use outlet boxes and black (prepainted or paint it, w/e)outlet covers, use some extension cables to attach them to a taped/attached tripplite surge protector. Straightforward.
* Monitor shelf using spaced out, 2x chrome rods holding it up. Rods would secure in holes in both table top and bottom of shelf.
* Killawatt, just drop into a kill-a-watt sized hole that keeps the fatter display-top-half on top of the table, and input/outputs below table.
* 1-2 tiles put into the 1ft side table for solder work that doesnt muck up the table when the melted solder spills. Just make hole in table, put support underneath, have formica overlap the tile a bit.

No current plans for drawers, keyboard drawer, or

For design, 90* table edge corners. There's a small 1'ft deep side table, and then behidn me another table that's like 6'x2ft with a shallow, sharp angle on part of it to the wall.

Questions and Concerns still
* Table Legs. Really can't find them at a good price. T-legs, a-legs, whatever legs. Not sure where to buy from for an affordable rate. Needs to be adjustable in height.
* Table sag. Pretty sure I need a crossbar or something for additional support, and I'd like to avoid a 3rd set of legs. Could I use a metal bar under the table, a 2x4, what.
* Under-table and shelf coating. Do I just leave naked ply underneath? I can't do that for the monitor shelf, for example. I see on some pre-made desks, like in stores and stuff, that have formica on top, on the bottom they have some thick cardboard (or cardboard colored) covering. Almost similar material to pegboard, I'm not sure what it is.
* Table edge t-molding, not entirely sure on installation or where to get it.
* The chrome bars that I use to hold up the monitor shelf. Where do I buy chrome bars like that. What about colored ones?
* How do I support the monitor shelf using chrome bars? Can I somehow screw or bolt them in without a noticeable bolt? If they maybe screwed into something at the top and bottom that'd be cool... Glue would work but I would rather avoid a permanent solution. I know it's just the monitor shelf but I was thinking of being able to swap colored bars!
* Where my 3 table essentially mate to make one table, I'm not sure what to do in regards to table banding. Do I not put table banding there so they mate tightly? But I still need some cover, right? Maybe use some t-mold to seal the gap between the tables, kinda like kitchen floor transitions?

Thanks. Just these simple questions be answered and it's all good to go!

 

[Belial88]

I noticed that I can use Closet rods from lowes as my chrome tubes!

However, I am still unsure of how to secure them. I could maybe drill an intendtion, but I'm not sure how I'd do that without drilling straight through the table. I'm also not sure how well a hole will be cut through formica, will it be rough on the edges, do I need some sort of covering like trim to pretty the joint up.

Glue + indention is the only thing I can think of, but I'd like to avoid using glue.

I'm still not clear on the rest of the stuff though. And the closet rods from lowes aren't colored.

 

[Carson Dyle]

Short legs for your monitor shelf. Installation should be self-explanatory.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20049538/

 

[Belial88]

Bleh. 8" is a little too high. I think. I really dont know. 6" just feels right. What size should a monitor shelf be?

I mean 4" is clearly small, but 8" seems a bit too big. like your monitors might be too high up or something. Thanks though, I'll defintely consider.

 

[Carson Dyle]

Here are the shorter legs (they adjust to 4.75", plus you'll have a 0.5" or so shelf on top of that):

See this page: http://www.ikeahackers.net/2013/09/triple-monitor-stand.html

Here's a shelf with the 8" legs:

 

[Belial88]

8" are too big, but the 4" seems okay. I dunno. I dont like that ;/

I'll keep an eye for better options, but thanks for a really solid suggestions. I may end up going that way in the end anyways. OSHA recommends your monitor be below eye level.

of course they may be full of shit, but just trying to put things at the right level.