NB Fan on Abit NF7-S v2 dieing
- Thread starter SithSolo1
- Start date
dont buy a stupid and loud active cooler for the north bridge. instead go for a simple and passive cooler. costs about 5,- maximum and will keep it cool enugh even if u occed ur CPU.
don't recommend passive cooling without first knowing what he has for airflow and a hardware. personally myself and my roommate had to get rid of the typical "meat cleaver" nforce2 cooler because the large CPU heatsink killed all airflow around it and caused overheating.
my personal recommendation would be the Thermalright NB-1, $15, infinately better cooling and the fan on it can easily be replaced, small fans such as these are prone to die quickly.
Abit should be shot for putting those garbage coolers on all those boards. every single one of them dies in a few months.
my personal recommendation would be the Thermalright NB-1, $15, infinately better cooling and the fan on it can easily be replaced, small fans such as these are prone to die quickly.
Abit should be shot for putting those garbage coolers on all those boards. every single one of them dies in a few months.
well those are big fans, depending on their RPMs they will generally make less harsh, lower frequency noise. personally i use one massive 120 in my case but its so low RPM the noise it makes is fairly loud but extremely low frequency so its mostly just a 'whoosh' of air which doesn't bother me at all.
the little delta on the other hand is a high pitched whine that i didn't care to listen to it. i mean,its definitly not loud to my standards,but i happened to have a fan speed controller on hand and i just wanted to quiet it down a bit.
just a heads up.
the little delta on the other hand is a high pitched whine that i didn't care to listen to it. i mean,its definitly not loud to my standards,but i happened to have a fan speed controller on hand and i just wanted to quiet it down a bit.
just a heads up.
as long as u dont oc ur CPU changing Voltage, an active cooler is nonsense, but after all its ur decision. I suggest a Zalman ZM-NB47J für 3$. Everything else is wasted money.
http://www.abaddon4tk.de/pys/zalman.jpg
http://www.abaddon4tk.de/pys/zalman.jpg
Fern
Elite Member
- Sep 30, 2003
- 26,907
- 173
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"as long as u dont oc ur CPU changing Voltage, an active cooler is nonsense"
like i said, myself and my friend both had the same problem, with stock speeds/voltage. if hes using a large cpu cooler or something else is obstructing airflow he might run into problems like i did.
the thermalright NB-1 works better than the $30 microcool at half the price. copper is NOT always better if its half the size and has an inferior quality fan.
like i said, myself and my friend both had the same problem, with stock speeds/voltage. if hes using a large cpu cooler or something else is obstructing airflow he might run into problems like i did.
the thermalright NB-1 works better than the $30 microcool at half the price. copper is NOT always better if its half the size and has an inferior quality fan.
Active cooling isn't needed on the NF7-S unless you're into very high FSB w/ increased chipset voltage.
My Mobile @ 2400mhz doesn't even phase the NB temperature within my Antec Sonata which has VERY poor airflow. Go passive unless you're just dying to have more noise.
If you don't like the Zalman NB47J then look into their NB32J. It's gold, but search for a NB32J-S for a silver version
My Mobile @ 2400mhz doesn't even phase the NB temperature within my Antec Sonata which has VERY poor airflow. Go passive unless you're just dying to have more noise.
If you don't like the Zalman NB47J then look into their NB32J. It's gold, but search for a NB32J-S for a silver version
link, its an all around better cooler. and my reference to half the size and an inferior fan was in reference to the microcool. copper doesn't mean jack if its a tiny heatsink with a poor fan. the nb1 heatsink is twice the size and uses a higher capacity delta fan(but at the expense of noise as i already mentioned earlier in this thread)
Wow, I didn't know you really didn't need active northbridge cooling. I read in one of the threads that his mobo's northbridge was running so hot with a passive heatsink that the mobo became unstable, until he got the active cooling. Maybe I should turn off my northbridge. I have xp mobile 2600+ @2400 (12x200).
By the way, this Abit nf7 series mobos are infamous for having a "faulty" northbridge fan..., it makes a lot of noise after only a couple of months. Anyway, people have reported that the blue or the gold passive heatsink from Zalman work really well.
By the way, this Abit nf7 series mobos are infamous for having a "faulty" northbridge fan..., it makes a lot of noise after only a couple of months. Anyway, people have reported that the blue or the gold passive heatsink from Zalman work really well.
Noid
Platinum Member
- Sep 20, 2000
- 2,390
- 193
- 106
lol ... there's only 0.4C difference in that article.
(subtract the .2C in Ambient from result)
These guys are not running a FSB of 215 on that ASUS.
They probably are not able to adjust voltages either (no mention of voltage or FSB)
The NF7-S is nortoriously hot.
(even the southbridge .. I have a small video HSF unit on mine... and sinks on the mosfets)
Some members go passive on thier's (I think Megatomic does, but he has version 2.0 mb)
My v1.1 needed a volt-mod to go over 205 stable in 3d. (my chipset voltage is ~1.83v at 215)
(read up at Abit forums)
In all .... I go copper because it transfers heat faster.
(read any science book you want)
Go with the Zalman if you have no plans to up the voltage on chipset.
(many use it)
(subtract the .2C in Ambient from result)
These guys are not running a FSB of 215 on that ASUS.
They probably are not able to adjust voltages either (no mention of voltage or FSB)
The NF7-S is nortoriously hot.
(even the southbridge .. I have a small video HSF unit on mine... and sinks on the mosfets)
Some members go passive on thier's (I think Megatomic does, but he has version 2.0 mb)
My v1.1 needed a volt-mod to go over 205 stable in 3d. (my chipset voltage is ~1.83v at 215)
(read up at Abit forums)
In all .... I go copper because it transfers heat faster.
(read any science book you want)
Go with the Zalman if you have no plans to up the voltage on chipset.
(many use it)
I use the blue Zalman passive one two, thatswhy i refereed to it. Iam running a 2500+ Barton @3200+ and the heatsink doesnt get much more than handwarm, maybe a lil warmer but not as hot that u say: ouch. saves lil cash and some noise.
it still performes better for half the price, its cheap alum and more surface area(and more CFM) makes up for its lack of being copper. you can get a copper version of the cooler for a price STILL less than the mircocool.
- Mar 19, 2001
- 7,740
- 11
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well to tell you the truth I had already ordered before I asked. Yes, the SVC page says it's a vga cooler but it's the exact same as the one that comes with the mobo with the exception that it is copper instead of aluminium. I don't know if the themraltake would have fit with my curent heatsink(SP-97) so thats why I didn't take it into consideration. And don't worry, I'm not using that cr*p they call thermal paste that comes with coolers. I've got a tube of Arctic Silver Ceramique for the NB and Arctic Silver Alumina for the SB.
never buy thermaltake! Its crap! And why u ask for help if u already buyed the stuff? U made a biiiiiig mistake, active cooling isnt necessssary.
- Mar 19, 2001
- 7,740
- 11
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Originally posted by: hundesau
never buy thermaltake! Its crap! And why u ask for help if u already buyed the stuff? U made a biiiiiig mistake, active cooling isnt necessssary.
Dude, what is your problem? It's fine to recommend quiet cooling to someone who wants it but to try and force it on some who could give two sh*ts if he adds 1 or 10 more fans to his pc is annoying to say the least. I know I don't have it OC'd much right now, 200x11.5, but near the end of this thing's life I plan to take it to the wall which will mean volt modding it so I'd rather have it actively cooled.. I know the proc will run with a 225 FSB stable, I did it with my stick of Mushkin Black lvl2 PC3500 all though it was sitting around 52C idle. At the time I didn't feel like burning out the proc and the 256MB wasn't cutting it. I know the mem I have now will more than likely meet that speed but I've got to hit it with 3.2+volts to "by pass" the volt limiters. CH-5 is good stuff but you've got to give it all the voltage you have and then some. =/
lol, if u ordered the stuff already why open a thread? and btw: read ur starting post...pretty much information in there...rofl...and read my answers. what s ur problem? ;( and thermaltake sucks thats a fact. as i said if u doin volting its better to go with active cooling u never mentioned anything but how u wanna occ ur comp....so maybe lil more info? but maybe not since u already ordered and advice is pointless.
- Mar 19, 2001
- 7,740
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I opened the thread because I can always send it back if someone recommends something better that will work for my needs or if someone has had issues with said cooler. Granted I didn't post a lot of info but all I asked was a simple "Will this work?"
and you're reply was "dont buy a stupid and loud active cooler for the north bridge. instead go for a simple and passive cooler." I really don't seem to recall asking for your general opinion of active cooling. Given that fact that the cooler was active to begin with I really don't see why you even bothered to post. On a side note I also agree that thermaltake is horrible. I personally have never liked any of their products but thats just me.
and you're reply was "dont buy a stupid and loud active cooler for the north bridge. instead go for a simple and passive cooler." I really don't seem to recall asking for your general opinion of active cooling. Given that fact that the cooler was active to begin with I really don't see why you even bothered to post. On a side note I also agree that thermaltake is horrible. I personally have never liked any of their products but thats just me.
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