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My water cooling setup

Mrvile

Mrvile

Lifer
Ok so here's my system:

MSI K8N Neo2 Plat
3500+ Winchester
BFG 6800GT OC
2x OCZ 512 EL Gold Rev2 DDR500

Anywho, I want a WC setup basically for OCing as far as I hope to go (2.8 sound feasible?). This is also my first setup, so I want everything to be as easy as possible and as little chance of leakage as possilbe. Here's what I have so far (after an extensive weeklong 49-post suggestions thread):

Swiftech MCW6002-64 - $42.95
http://www.jab-tech.com/customer/product.php?productid=2515&cat=0&page=1

Black Ice Pro II - $49.95
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/blackiceproii.html

HDPE - $17.95
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=51&cat=27&page=1

Danger Den DD12V-D4 - $74.99
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=36&cat=23&page=1

10? UV Green - $9.90
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=57&cat=7&page=1

PCI Pass-thru Kit - $6.95
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/pcipakitfor1.html

AS5 - $7.29
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=72&cat=52&page=1

Now I was thinking of using a heatercore (since they're cheaper and perform a bit better), but the main problem is that they are hard to mount. Is there any way I could mount a 2" thick, single 120mm heatercore without having to bend the fins?

Also, I looked through a lot of different pumps, and I was pressed to get the much cheaper Hydors or Eheims, but since they're AC, I wouldn't be able to fit the plug through my case, relaying is out of question, and the potential EMI produced could be annoying for my poor old CRT. So I'm gonna stick with DC.

As for fittings, 1/2 inch UV green 😛 tubes. Wide tubes + lower water velocity > wide tubes + higher water velocity, I heard, so I guess the slightly weaker DD D4 would be better suited for the 1/2 inches than a more powerful AC pump, right? Just trying to make some sense out of this...

All suggestions appreciated, feel free to say whatever you like!

EDIT: Changed BIP to BIP II for a few extra bucks. Added PCI Pass-thru kit.
 
Even if you did get water cooling, I doubt you would get any higher with that OC. Most Winchesters receive their highest OC's even on air.
 
Cool, bR, but a lot of the stuff he's offering isn't compatible with my setup (the wrong socket on the CPU block, the big dual heatercore).

Who here uses a heatercore, and how do you mount it? Thanks.
 
Hmm, I thought it over (and looked over my case, which can be seen here) and I think I found a way to get a BIP II in it. I figured I'd mount it externally, and horizontally, so that half of it fits over the exhaust hole and one half sticks out. Then, I'd mount two 120mm fans so that they pull air over the radiator. I would need one of these to get the tubing into the computer. The 50 dollars for the BIP II is a steal, for a few extra bucks I could get almost double the performance.

As for the tubing setup, here's how I'm hoping to get it. I'll have the resevoir in the third 5 1/2 inch drive rail (I have my DVD drives in the first two), have the pump in the hard drive compartment closest to the PSU, the radiator on the outside where I mentioned earlier, and the core on the CPU (which is about four inches above the floor of the motherboard compartment). The reason I'm placing my pump in the compartment there is because, if you can't see in the picture, there are air holes in the bottom of the case, and I figure instead of drilling my own holes to mount the pump, I could just mount them in the holes already there. Also, the pump will be concealed, so it will look better.

Tubing will go (starting from pump) up through the hole in the floor of the mobo compartment, into the CPU block, into the tube passthru (which will be right under the vid card, the bottommost PCI slot) and out to the radiator, back in through the passthru, all the way across to the reservoir, and back down through the hole in the floor to the pump. Everyone got it?

In case the pump for some reason doesn't fit in the HDD compartment (I have a few cables there so it might not be able to) I'll just place it under the reservoir.

 
Two things: If you can get a good overclock with a Winchester on air, you'll get a great overclock on water, and without the operating temps slamming back and forth. If you use a rad box (the passthru assembly), you're going to need to reduce your 1/2 inch ID hose to 3/8 inch ID. You're going to loose a fair amount of flow with this process.
 
Oh really? Is it because the openings in the pass-thru are smaller?

EDIT: Oh it just occurred to me. The pass-thru is 1/2 OD, 3/8 ID. Meaning that the opening is 3/8, but the fittings are for 1/2. Crap, if I switch to 3/8 will they fit on the 1/2 fittings?

Also, I'm not gonna be using a Radbox. I will attach it directly to the case. A Radbox is 20 more bucks than just the pass-thru, and isn't necessary.
 
Yup. If you switch to 3/8 inch ID over all? Sure, that would work. If you're handy with a drill you can use bulkead fittings too and stay with 1/2 inch ID. But your goal is to situate your rad outside of the case, right?
 
But the thing is, everything with a 1/2 OD has a 3/8 ID. The resevoir, the CPU block, and even any radiator fitting. If I switch to the regular BIP (which does not need to be fitted outside the case), it would have 3/8 ID, just like the pass-thru does. So what would the pass-thru's 3/8 ID change?

Also, can't I just mount the radiator directly to the 120mm fanholes that are already on my case? It looks like the Radbox is for people with like 80mm fanholes that want to use 120mm fans.
 
🙂 I guess I made the unwarranted assumption that you were mixing 1/2 inch ID components with 3/8 inch ID fittings. Sorry. Are all the components you've selected so far 3/8 inch ID?

Sure, that would be the easy approach.
 
dont forget if you're going tor un 3/8 fittings you would need to get the swiftech mcw6000a isntead the 6002a is made for the 1/2in fittings.
 
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