• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

My new to me F150

AMCRambler

AMCRambler

Diamond Member
Bought a truck back in June, never got around to posting about it. Anyway, nothing special, its a used 2006 F150 SuperCrew 4x4. Needed something more practical than my GTO with snow tires to get me around in the NY winters.
FranksTruck.jpg


I bought it knowing it needed brakes. I had the dealer turn the rotors on fronts because it was shuddering like hell when I braked. Once they fixed that I was good to drive it for a while. Fast forward to now and I'm going fishing with my buddy and his cousins. We're taking his cousins boat and I'm going tow it. Figured I'd better make the brakes good before towing, so I picked up the parts from RockAuto and did the work today. Snapped a couple pics, of the rears. By the time I got to the fronts it had gotten dark so I didn't bother.

Before
F150BrakesBefore.jpg

After
F150Brakes.jpg


The front splash shields were basically disintegrating. I don't know what kind of metal Ford is using these days but a 6 year old truck shouldn't look this bad.

Drivers side old and new:
FrontSplashShieldToast.jpg

Passenger side was even worse
OldShieldCrumbled.jpg

NewShieldOn.jpg


The rear shields weren't as bad but were starting to rust pretty good too so I scraped them, primed and painted them.
RepaintedSplashShield.jpg

Maybe that'll slow the salt down a little bit. I just did the inside since getting them off would have meant pulling the axle hub and I didn't have new seals. New shields from Ford are only $20 so if they crumble I'll just get new ones.

That's it for today's wrenching. Tomorrow if it doesn't rain I'm going to swap out the rusty diff cover that is leaking and put in some fresh gear oil.
 
Last edited:
jlee said:
Two of your before/after pics are the same.

Ugh..rust..I hate it with a passion.
Click to expand...

Yep you were right. I guess I'm pretty tired from all the wrenching.

The first thing I did on it was the nightmare 5.4 Triton spark plug replacement. The truck has 75k miles on it and I figured if I got the jump on the plugs I might get them all out without breaking any. Heh, boy was I wrong. I was doing good and replaced all 4 on the passenger side without a problem. Moved around to the drivers side and broke two over there. Sat on my hands for 3 days waiting for the Lisle spark plug tip remover to come so I could finish the job.
 
hey hey nice job on the work but pro tip USE JACKSTANDS. jacks arnt designed to hold that much weight for that long they will eventually lower the car down from pressure loss keep yourself safe!!
 
I had the screw jack from the truck under the frame rail while I had it up on the hydraulic jacks. I never go under without a fail safe.
 
I wouldn't be surprised to find that your truck was a Northern / Salt truck.

No matter how carefully you wash, can can't get it all off, and those splash guards are painted, not e-coated. So they do fall apart fairly quickly.
 
Demo24 said:
Is it just me or does it seem like the rear brakes use relatively little of the rotor?
Click to expand...

It should have the parking brake inside the tophat part, so there is some left for the braking part, just not as much as the front. The rears don't do as much work as the front either, so it's probably a wash.
 
Holy mother of rust! You have 100x more rust on your 06 than my 90 Mustang. That has to be such a horrible feeling having your vehicle just rust itself apart. 🙁
 
OILFIELDTRASH said:
Holy mother of rust! You have 100x more rust on your 06 than my 90 Mustang. That has to be such a horrible feeling having your vehicle just rust itself apart. 🙁
Click to expand...

It's called the rust belt for a reason. Makes working on the under carriage lots of fun with rust is falling in your eyes and all the of bolts are seized...
 
Yeah the pads on the rears are surprisingly tiny. The fronts are pretty beefy with 2 piston calipers and a march larger area that the pads sweep. I upgraded the fronts to the Bendix ceramic pads and it does seem to stop a little bit better now. Not sure how much of that was due to the pads so much as the new hardware all around.

I'm pretty sure that in addition to the fronts being warped before they turned them, the rears were as well. I noticed that as I would gradually apply more pedal pressure to stop quicker I'd start to feel pulsation about halfway down on the pedal. I'm guessing the rears really don't start grabbing until you put your foot down further. That vibration is gone with the new rotors on there so I guess the proof is in the pudding.
 
Howard said:
Anti-seize between the wheel and the brake hat!
Click to expand...

Hehe, yeah. I didn't bother doing it on the fronts this time because it was getting late, startnig to rain and I wanted to put the thing back together. The backs seemed to have it on there already, but next time for the fronts I'm going to be ready with the BFH.
 
AMCRambler said:
Hehe, yeah. I didn't bother doing it on the fronts this time because it was getting late, startnig to rain and I wanted to put the thing back together. The backs seemed to have it on there already, but next time for the fronts I'm going to be ready with the BFH.
Click to expand...

You may need more than that...

Rochester%2520Hills-20110910-00057.jpg


Not a fun time.
 
I get the same rust on my bimmer even with brand new rotors and it only takes a day of not driving for it to develop or if I spray it with water, it only takes about 1 hour for a layer of rust to show up, LOL.

Nice job on the brakes!
 
I loved my F150. i beat the hell out of it and it never let me down. When i moved of the farm i figured i didn't need it anymore. Fuck i was wrong.
 
KIAman said:
I get the same rust on my bimmer even with brand new rotors and it only takes a day of not driving for it to develop or if I spray it with water, it only takes about 1 hour for a layer of rust to show up, LOL.
Click to expand...

That's not what they're talking about.... And yes, surface oxidation is going to happen nearly immediately on any high-iron-content metal with no protection. By nature, you can't protect the surface of a rotor, so they'll always "rust" like that. That's not going to change unless you have ceramic rotors (or other non-ferrous material)
 
...and that is exactly why I disassembled / undercoated my Sport Trac as soon as I bought it. It was surprisingly clean underneath for a 2001 with 130k+ miles, but I knew just a few years of winters up here in the rust belt wouldn't keep it that way for long.
 
iamwiz82 said:
You may need more than that...

Rochester%2520Hills-20110910-00057.jpg


Not a fun time.
Click to expand...

Holy crap. I've never had it come to that. Usually 4 or 5 whacks with the 8lb sledge and they drop off like nothing. I don't usually get the rotors turned though. When it comes time to replace pads, I usually just do everything. Rotors are pretty damn cheap these days. All told I think I spent about $180 on Rock Auto to do all four corners. And that was with Bendix parts which are pretty decent although the rotors still said made in China.
 
Swapped out the diff cover tonight. My vacuum pump was shot so I had to use the old funnel and tubing method and wait for gravity to pull the fluid in. Took forever since 75W oil just doesnt want to flow.

Im beat so ill post you some pics tomorrow.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top