Arrrrggggg. This is why the sticky exists, I should have insisted upon getting the answers to that before creating a US build. I just assumed that the OP was in the US because he linked to Newegg. OP, did you give your budget in USD or AUD?
Well seems as US and AUS dollars are about the same (AUS a little stronger), it wouldnt really matter which one I gave it in, I suppose. Look on pccasegear.com They are Australian and their prices are about equal to newegg. But if it does matter, yes I did open the thread with US dollars.
I wasn't expecting to come here and get a straight up answer for my build, then I'd be on my way. I wanted to discuss it a lot first, and there was still many things I was unclear on. But now my mind is set
Would I be able to discuss PC modding here? It looks interesting and I would love to give it a go. I don't mean anything that would require heavy hardware, like cutting cases. I mean like adding a colour scheme, like LEDs, cord sleeving, etc.
I wasn't expecting to come here and get a straight up answer for my build, then I'd be on my way. I wanted to discuss it a lot first, and there was still many things I was unclear on. But now my mind is set
Would I be able to discuss PC modding here? It looks interesting and I would love to give it a go. I don't mean anything that would require heavy hardware, like cutting cases. I mean like adding a colour scheme, like LEDs, cord sleeving, etc.
Last edited:
Can you lay out your current build as it stands now?
EDIT: You can discuss anything you want, but you'll probably get better modding-specific responses in Cases & Cooling subforum.
EDIT: You can discuss anything you want, but you'll probably get better modding-specific responses in Cases & Cooling subforum.
Here is my public wishlist from pccasegear.com. If that link doesn't work, I'm going to list them down below.
Case : NZXT Phantom 410 $130
PSU : Corsair CX-600 Modular 80+ Bronze $100
CPU : Intel Core i5 3570K $230
Mobo : ASRock Z77 PRO4-M $100
RAM : G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 $65
GPU : Gigabyte Radeon HD7970 Overclocked 3GB $415
HDD : Western Digital Black 1TB $100
SSD : Samsung 840 Series 120GB $100
CPU Cooling : CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO $35
Optical Drive : Samsung $22
Monitor : ASUS VE228H 21.5in LED $145
Keyboard & Mouse : Microsoft Wired Desktop Keyboard 600 $20
OS : Windows 8 64bit $100
Total: $1562
I love that case. The look and the features. So my mind is pretty set on keeping it.
The PSU has plenty of power, it's modular and has 80 PLUS Bronze. Sounds good enough for me.
I didn't think I need an i7, i5 k series is good I think.
Mobo reaches my exact requirements; no SLI/CFX, dual channel ram, 4 slots of ram. Perfect and cheap.
The RAM is powerful enough and it looks cool can easily and cheaply upgrade to 4 sticks of this if needed.
My GPU is obviously the center piece of the build, like it should be. Hoping that I wont need to cut this back.
Western Digital has great warranty and this thing is very powerful. Decided 1TB is all I needed.
The SSD is fine for me, 120 GB is enough for OS and a few of the higher end games I play. Lower end games and all other storage will be throw onto the HDD.
Apparently this heat-sink is great.
The optical drive is just suppose to get its job done, wont need to use it often.
Monitor is just what I want, nothing high-end.
Keyboard and mouse are just suppose to do the job. I'll upgrade these in the future.
If you pick any pieces out that could do better than what I picked, please use pccasegear.com or cplonline.com.au.
Case : NZXT Phantom 410 $130
PSU : Corsair CX-600 Modular 80+ Bronze $100
CPU : Intel Core i5 3570K $230
Mobo : ASRock Z77 PRO4-M $100
RAM : G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 $65
GPU : Gigabyte Radeon HD7970 Overclocked 3GB $415
HDD : Western Digital Black 1TB $100
SSD : Samsung 840 Series 120GB $100
CPU Cooling : CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO $35
Optical Drive : Samsung $22
Monitor : ASUS VE228H 21.5in LED $145
Keyboard & Mouse : Microsoft Wired Desktop Keyboard 600 $20
OS : Windows 8 64bit $100
Total: $1562
I love that case. The look and the features. So my mind is pretty set on keeping it.
The PSU has plenty of power, it's modular and has 80 PLUS Bronze. Sounds good enough for me.
I didn't think I need an i7, i5 k series is good I think.
Mobo reaches my exact requirements; no SLI/CFX, dual channel ram, 4 slots of ram. Perfect and cheap.
The RAM is powerful enough and it looks cool
can easily and cheaply upgrade to 4 sticks of this if needed.My GPU is obviously the center piece of the build, like it should be. Hoping that I wont need to cut this back.
Western Digital has great warranty and this thing is very powerful. Decided 1TB is all I needed.
The SSD is fine for me, 120 GB is enough for OS and a few of the higher end games I play. Lower end games and all other storage will be throw onto the HDD.
Apparently this heat-sink is great.
The optical drive is just suppose to get its job done, wont need to use it often.
Monitor is just what I want, nothing high-end.
Keyboard and mouse are just suppose to do the job. I'll upgrade these in the future.
If you pick any pieces out that could do better than what I picked, please use pccasegear.com or cplonline.com.au.
Last edited:
If there is something cheaper than a WD Black, go for that instead. I'd look for something about $75 AUD (that's the price it would be around here). Other than that, it looks good.
Wait, no, the WD Black is higher quality. I meant if you can find the same size at a lower price.
I knew what you meant
But I think I'll switch back to the WD Black, it's only $25. But if I NEED to, I'll go back to the Seagate.
But I think I'll switch back to the WD Black, it's only $25. But if I NEED to, I'll go back to the Seagate.
I guess I misunderstood your post. $75 Barracuda > $100 Black. $100 Black > $100 Barracuda. Generally speaking.
Oh ok.
Well I was thinking about maybe having water cooling later on. I was just wondering exactly what I need to do that though. I only want to cool my CPU, not anything else, so is this the only part I need; Corsair Hydro Series H60 SE or maybe this one, not sure yet Corsair Hydro Series H80i. Or do I need all of them reservoirs and pumps etc?
I probably wont be doing water cooling from the start, I might upgrade to that a bit later, or if I do need all the pumps and stuff, definitely never.
Well I was thinking about maybe having water cooling later on. I was just wondering exactly what I need to do that though. I only want to cool my CPU, not anything else, so is this the only part I need; Corsair Hydro Series H60 SE or maybe this one, not sure yet Corsair Hydro Series H80i. Or do I need all of them reservoirs and pumps etc?
I probably wont be doing water cooling from the start, I might upgrade to that a bit later, or if I do need all the pumps and stuff, definitely never.
If you get an AIO premade cooler like the ones you listed, no other parts needed. If you custom build, you need a resevoir and/or t-line, a pump, tubing, barbs, zip ties to bind things, and a cooling block.
Well that sounds excessive, I think I'll stick with a pre-made if I do go with water cooling. Is it more efficient than a heatsink? I suppose it wold be.
Not really. I mean, it's smaller, but it's usually not any better. For example, the Noctua D14 beats the H100 and H100i. The H110 is better, but also costs nearly 50% more.
Last edited:
I see. Well, if it's that much more expensive I think I would rather spend that extra money somewhere else that would make a much more noticeable difference.
Of course! Higher end heatsinks like the Noctua D14 don't really need it because they come with excellent fans, but you could. Each one usually comes with hooks or clamps to screw onto the fans, which then attach to the heatsink.
Also, you know there is an edit button under your post, right?
Also, you know there is an edit button under your post, right?
Yes, I made a double post and thought, I could have just edited that blank moments
Thanks for the advice though. My heat sink would fit a 120mm fan on it, so what brand should I hook up to it?
blank moments Thanks for the advice though. My heat sink would fit a 120mm fan on it, so what brand should I hook up to it?
I'm about to go to sleep, but try and use Google (localized for Australia) to find each of these:
At the cheap end are Yate Loons--around $5 each. Go for lower RPM ones, because the higher RPM ones are much, MUCH louder.
Around $30 for a pair: Corsair SP120 Quiet OR Performance Edition--one is a bit cooler, one is a bit quieter, as you may be able to tell from the names.
And the god-level $20ish each Scythe Gentle Typhoons.
These aren't PWM though, so you'll need Speedfan to control them.
I have to ask though, what heatsink are you using? You may want to simply get a better heatsink (such as the stateside $50 Thermaltake Frio or $80 Noctua D14) than get fans for a lesser heatsink.
At the cheap end are Yate Loons--around $5 each. Go for lower RPM ones, because the higher RPM ones are much, MUCH louder.
Around $30 for a pair: Corsair SP120 Quiet OR Performance Edition--one is a bit cooler, one is a bit quieter, as you may be able to tell from the names.
And the god-level $20ish each Scythe Gentle Typhoons.
These aren't PWM though, so you'll need Speedfan to control them.
I have to ask though, what heatsink are you using? You may want to simply get a better heatsink (such as the stateside $50 Thermaltake Frio or $80 Noctua D14) than get fans for a lesser heatsink.
Last edited:
I don't think I'll go with Yate Loons, I don't like getting things so cheap that my build will rely on for cooling.
Scythe Gentle Typhoons are found on pccasegear, and they look pretty cool. What do you mean by PWM though?
For the Corsair fans, pccasegear has both the 120mm performance and quiet edition for $23, and the 140mm quiet edition for $25. I think I might go with the quite edition for most areas. Well my case has a few places to put some fans, are there any places I should have the performance fans, or fit a 140mm in? I'm completely new to the cooling set up, so I think I need help with where to put any 120mm quiet and performance and any 140mm quiet ones.
For heaksink I'm using the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO, but an upgrade may be worth it. At pccasegear the Thermaltake Frio is $75 and the Noctua D14 is $84.
EDIT: Noctua seems to have the best fans at $30, but the colour is atrocious I think disassembling it and painting it would be fun, but the price is still big.
Scythe Gentle Typhoons are found on pccasegear, and they look pretty cool. What do you mean by PWM though?
For the Corsair fans, pccasegear has both the 120mm performance and quiet edition for $23, and the 140mm quiet edition for $25. I think I might go with the quite edition for most areas. Well my case has a few places to put some fans, are there any places I should have the performance fans, or fit a 140mm in? I'm completely new to the cooling set up, so I think I need help with where to put any 120mm quiet and performance and any 140mm quiet ones.
For heaksink I'm using the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO, but an upgrade may be worth it. At pccasegear the Thermaltake Frio is $75 and the Noctua D14 is $84.
EDIT: Noctua seems to have the best fans at $30, but the colour is atrocious
I think disassembling it and painting it would be fun, but the price is still big.
Last edited:
Fans 101:
Fans are obviously meant to push air to cool computer components. However, it is equally obvious that they do not always need to push the absolute maximum amount of air; often, only a small amount is required thanks to the "race to idle" strategy employed by computers.
So how do fans know when to be loud or quiet? It depends on the design, which is physically built into the fan. Some of them 3-pin connections, others have 4-pin connections. The key difference is that a 3-pin's speed must be manipulated through voltage, while a 4-pin, if plugged into a four pin slot on the motherboard, can be controlled through "Pulse Width Modulation" (PWM), which is much easier. This is because fans need a minimum voltage to function, so your range is a bit more limited on that side. In theory, a PWM fan is quieter overall since it makes less noise during the main state of computing--idle.
You can plug each fan into the other's slots, but you'll either be losing the PWM feature (no pin to support it) or not utilize the PWM possible (no receiver for the PWM on the fan).
Other important features of fans include the static pressure, noise level, and CFM rating. The first two are typically more important. Think of it like rating a river: static pressure is how forcefully the water moves, noise level is how loud it is, and CFM is the volume of water it moves. CFM doesn't matter as much simply because many fan waste most of it: the moving air spills everywhere and doesn't do a good job of moving heat. Silverstone AP121s, for example, have a low CFM rating but the air it does move is exceptionally well focused, allowing it to perform better than higher CFM, but less focused fans. Manufacturers exaggerate these specs, so get onto XBitLabs or a similarly reputable site to find the real statistics.
When installing fans, keep in mind that they have an airflow direction: it's labelled on the fan (one arrow pointing sideways to show the direction of rotation, and another arrow facing the direction air moves) roughly like this: ^ ->. Make sure your arrows point the right way.
In the actual case, it's important to maintain a cosistent direction of air from front to back and top to bottom. The reason for this pathway is the arrangement of parts. HDDs don't make a lot of heat, but are impacted by overly high temperatures, so they go next to the front intake fans. The GPU comes next (typically, as warm air rises and the GPU is positioned below thanks to the motherboard orientation), and is the warmest part, so it needs the coolest air. Finally, the air reaches the CPU on top--it's still warm, but not nearly as much as the GPU. Make sure you have no fans opposing this pathway, or they'll end up fighting each other, reducing cooling.
You can have a positive pressure case or a negative pressure case, depending on whether you're moving more air in or out--this is where CFM comes in. Negative pressure (more out than in). typically cools a bit better (by a degree or two) but ends up attracting a lot of dust--a negative pressure case is basically a weak vacuum. Use air filters if you do negative pressure. Positive pressure, more in than out, is a bit warmer but keeps the case cleaner. Either way, try to clean the computer out every few months--it helps keep the fans moving at the rating they should and helps the computer's longevity.
/101
If you don't like the color of Noctuas, look into the Phanteks series. The high end ones are identical in performance and appearance to the Noctuas, but have a better color scheme (they produce black, red, blue, and silver versions). Phanteks are typically around $90-95. On the other hand, any real computer geek will recognize Noctuas for what they are, and praise you for them.
Fans are obviously meant to push air to cool computer components. However, it is equally obvious that they do not always need to push the absolute maximum amount of air; often, only a small amount is required thanks to the "race to idle" strategy employed by computers.
So how do fans know when to be loud or quiet? It depends on the design, which is physically built into the fan. Some of them 3-pin connections, others have 4-pin connections. The key difference is that a 3-pin's speed must be manipulated through voltage, while a 4-pin, if plugged into a four pin slot on the motherboard, can be controlled through "Pulse Width Modulation" (PWM), which is much easier. This is because fans need a minimum voltage to function, so your range is a bit more limited on that side. In theory, a PWM fan is quieter overall since it makes less noise during the main state of computing--idle.
You can plug each fan into the other's slots, but you'll either be losing the PWM feature (no pin to support it) or not utilize the PWM possible (no receiver for the PWM on the fan).
Other important features of fans include the static pressure, noise level, and CFM rating. The first two are typically more important. Think of it like rating a river: static pressure is how forcefully the water moves, noise level is how loud it is, and CFM is the volume of water it moves. CFM doesn't matter as much simply because many fan waste most of it: the moving air spills everywhere and doesn't do a good job of moving heat. Silverstone AP121s, for example, have a low CFM rating but the air it does move is exceptionally well focused, allowing it to perform better than higher CFM, but less focused fans. Manufacturers exaggerate these specs, so get onto XBitLabs or a similarly reputable site to find the real statistics.
When installing fans, keep in mind that they have an airflow direction: it's labelled on the fan (one arrow pointing sideways to show the direction of rotation, and another arrow facing the direction air moves) roughly like this: ^ ->. Make sure your arrows point the right way.
In the actual case, it's important to maintain a cosistent direction of air from front to back and top to bottom. The reason for this pathway is the arrangement of parts. HDDs don't make a lot of heat, but are impacted by overly high temperatures, so they go next to the front intake fans. The GPU comes next (typically, as warm air rises and the GPU is positioned below thanks to the motherboard orientation), and is the warmest part, so it needs the coolest air. Finally, the air reaches the CPU on top--it's still warm, but not nearly as much as the GPU. Make sure you have no fans opposing this pathway, or they'll end up fighting each other, reducing cooling.
You can have a positive pressure case or a negative pressure case, depending on whether you're moving more air in or out--this is where CFM comes in. Negative pressure (more out than in). typically cools a bit better (by a degree or two) but ends up attracting a lot of dust--a negative pressure case is basically a weak vacuum. Use air filters if you do negative pressure. Positive pressure, more in than out, is a bit warmer but keeps the case cleaner. Either way, try to clean the computer out every few months--it helps keep the fans moving at the rating they should and helps the computer's longevity.
/101
If you don't like the color of Noctuas, look into the Phanteks series. The high end ones are identical in performance and appearance to the Noctuas, but have a better color scheme (they produce black, red, blue, and silver versions). Phanteks are typically around $90-95. On the other hand, any real computer geek will recognize Noctuas for what they are, and praise you for them.
Last edited:
This all looks fine, but I would say that you should get a bigger monitor. 21.5" is too small for 1080p IMHO, 23-24" is perfect (or maybe I am just old). Check out this LG 23" for $149.
@ Sleepingforest - Thanks for all that info
@ mfenn - thanks for the monitor suggestion, I agree with you and have replaced the ASUS.
One thing that we haven't discussed here yet, and I am getting a little skeptical on, is my case (which just got taken off pccasegear for some reason? I'm sure it'll be back).
Do you guys think I could do any better? I suppose I prefer a subtle and sleek look, which is why I chose the Phantom 410, but do you guys think this case is good?
@ mfenn - thanks for the monitor suggestion, I agree with you and have replaced the ASUS.
One thing that we haven't discussed here yet, and I am getting a little skeptical on, is my case (which just got taken off pccasegear for some reason? I'm sure it'll be back).
Do you guys think I could do any better? I suppose I prefer a subtle and sleek look, which is why I chose the Phantom 410, but do you guys think this case is good?
You can't get much more subtle than a roughly $100 Fractal R4; it's literally one solid block of black, grey, or white. There is a windowed model and unwindowed model. The Fractal R4 also comes with excellent acoustics--it's a near silent case.
Wow, that is subtle, but maybe too subtle :hmm: I think I would like a window on the side that reveals most the area, but then most that are like this have no side fan mount for the VGA.
I'll keep browsing, but any pointers for cases, in regards of brands?
I'll keep browsing, but any pointers for cases, in regards of brands?
Silverstone and Lian-Li make excellent top end cases (we're talking $200 full-sized towers, though Silverstone does dip into the $100 range for things like mATX and mITX). Corsair overcharges a bit, but their cases are very easy to assemble (the 200R is pretty good value for $50). BitFenix makes good budget cases, though they often lack little things like front-panel USB 3.0. Antec is solid, but not advancing very much in terms of design, so it's starting to look a little old fashioned in terms of features, even for the slow moving case industry. NXZT is excellent in the range between $100 and $200. Cooler Master is playing catch-up right now--few of their cases, even the more expensive ones, offer USB 3.0 (if I remember correctly).
I personally like Bitfenix at the low end, NXZT in the middle segment, and Silverstone for small cases and Lian Li for large cases at the top end.
I personally like Bitfenix at the low end, NXZT in the middle segment, and Silverstone for small cases and Lian Li for large cases at the top end.
TRENDING THREADS
-
Discussion Zen 5 Speculation (EPYC Turin and Strix Point/Granite Ridge - Ryzen 9000)- Started by DisEnchantment
- Replies: 25K
-
Discussion Intel Meteor, Arrow, Lunar & Panther Lakes Discussion Threads
- Started by Tigerick
- Replies: 21K
-
Discussion Intel current and future Lakes & Rapids thread- Started by TheF34RChannel
- Replies: 23K
-
-
Facebook
Twitter