My car is making funny sounds :( Update: Took it to Nissan dealer

[WinkOsmosis]

1995 240sx. I got in my car today to go over to the apt complex hose for some washing. It took a little longer to start up, like 20%, then idled at 1300rpm, with the AC off (normal is like ~500 without/1000 with ac). Also, it was vibrating, at least too much for 1300rpm. Felt like it does at ~500, except with more energy.
I drove a little in the parking lot and could hear something that sounded like gears turning on each other, but very quiet.
I opened the hood and could hear something rattling. A few ticks per second. Anyone have any ideas? Transmission?


Update:
Dealer says the vibration is caused by cracked engine mounts. Does that make sense? Why would cracked (not broken) mounts cause vibration? They said those will have to be replaced "eventually". Will cost $300 to replace those mounts.
They say the whirring noise is caused by the power steering fluid being very low because of leaking. $352 to get that fixed.

The engine mount thing doesn't make sense so I am going to tell them not to do it.

Edit: Forgot something. She said the shifter was shaking with the rough idle because of a worn bushing. I don't remember how much that would cost to replace. Maybe she said that the power steering and the bushing were $352. Doh!

 

I cannot properly daignose your problem(s) with that description.

Has it lost power ?

Listen to the exhaust, does it have a rythmic putting sound ?

Are any of the lights on in the dashboard while it's running ? (Oil, check engine etc.)

 

[GtPrOjEcTX]

I'll steal your thread since Roger is in here.

My brakes are going. My steering wheel shakes while braking.

Then it went away for about a week, I forgot about it, now its back and worse.

Whenever turning (even ever so slightly) I get the same noise I got from the brakes squelling. This is just when turning, not turning while breaking. Every turn I make = squel. Is this the brakes as well or something different.

For reference: its a '92 Firebird that has a considerable amount of body damage and I don't want to put much more money into it. Given the shape the brakes are in I think I want to use this until its really unsafe to drive, then buy a new car. Thoughts?

 

I'll steal your thread since Roger is in here.

My brakes are going. My steering wheel shakes while braking.

Then it went away for about a week, I forgot about it, now its back and worse.

Whenever turning (even ever so slightly) I get the same noise I got from the brakes squelling. Is this the brakes as well or something different.

For reference: its a '92 Firebird that has a considerable amount of body damage and I don't want to put much more money into it. Given the shape the brakes are in I think I want to use this until its really unsafe to drive, then buy a new car. Thoughts?

Replace your rotors and brake pads and you will be fine . (They are warped)



Pads $35

Rotors $40 for two

Do the work yourself, it's really not that hard.

 

[GtPrOjEcTX]

Originally posted by: Roger
Replace your rotors and brake pads and you will be fine . (They are warped)

Pads $35

Rotors $40 for two

Do the work yourself, it's really not that hard.

How much for a mechanic to do it? (average?) I don't do auto repair work (no skills)

The only site I found to walk me through doing it is for a Ford F150 here. Would the procedure be the same?

 

[Thegonagle]

Originally posted by: Roger

I'll steal your thread since Roger is in here.

My brakes are going. My steering wheel shakes while braking.

Then it went away for about a week, I forgot about it, now its back and worse.

Whenever turning (even ever so slightly) I get the same noise I got from the brakes squelling. Is this the brakes as well or something different.

For reference: its a '92 Firebird that has a considerable amount of body damage and I don't want to put much more money into it. Given the shape the brakes are in I think I want to use this until its really unsafe to drive, then buy a new car. Thoughts?

Replace your rotors and brake pads and you will be fine . (They are warped)



Pads $35

Rotors $40 for two

Do the work yourself, it's really not that hard.

Agreed. Do the work yourself, but get a friend who's done it before to help you through it. You really don't want to mess up your brakes.

I suggest that you buy some of the synthetic grease for the caliper pins. Lots of people neglect this, and then wonder why the pads wear so unevenly.

To Wink, it's too hard to offer any suggestions over the net because nobody can see or hear the actual problem. You actually describe what could possibly be perfectly normal sounds. I know that it doesn't sound normal, but do you see what we mean?

If possible, I'd post a recording of the sound in a Nissan forum AND get some people in real life to give it a listen, or else if you can, just bight the bullet and take it straight to your favorite mechanic.

Say! Does the 240SX have Nissan's variable valve timing system? A common problem that 92-94 Maximas is that the variable valve timing solenoid goes bad and the timing chain starts slapping around. The part is around $100, IIRC. Check out those Nissan forums for more info.

 

[Ryan]

IIRC - doesn't the 240sx have a timing chain? You might want to have a mechanic check it out to make sure that there isn't a problem with it - most timing chains start making funky noises before they go kaput........

If it does go, you're going to have a MAJOR problem on your hands........

 

[GtPrOjEcTX]

Originally posted by: Thegonagle
Agreed. Do the work yourself, but get a friend who's done it before to help you through it. You really don't want to mess up your brakes.

No such luck there (having a friend who's done this before)

 

How much for a mechanic to do it? (average?) I don't do auto repair work (no skills)

You can do it

Buy a repair manual $15, read it thoroughly and follow the procedures step by step.


If you decide to bring your vehicle to Mieneke, expect to pay $500 to $600 for a job that you can do yourself for under $100.

 

[Thegonagle]

Originally posted by: Roger

How much for a mechanic to do it? (average?) I don't do auto repair work (no skills)

You can do it

Buy a repair manual $15, read it thoroughly and follow the procedures step by step.


If you decide to bring your vehicle to Mieneke, expect to pay $500 to $600 for a job that you can do yourself for under $100.

Don't bring it to Mieneke, or Midas, or Car-X, or Precision tune, or Pep-Boys, or any other auto repair chain. Because of their business structure, people tend to pay way too much at most of those places. They'll hit you up for a lot of stuff you don't need, and charge you for a lot of the same labor twice. You'll want to take it to a good independant. Check out the Mechan-X-Files in the Car Talk section of Cars.com.

(I hope the real mechanics here don't mind me. I'm not a mechanic, but I know I'd be a damn good one if that's what I wanted to do.)

 

[Paulson]

Replacing breaks and rotors is a fairly easy process... I looked up info on the internet and replaced the brakes on my mom's 94 intrepid...

Take the wheel off, figure out how to take the piece that holds the pads on, undo that, unclip the pads from the harness, and then slide get the rotor outta there.... put the new stuff in and wallah... it's pretty simple.. might take a while but you can say you did it and you can save a lot of money.

 

[mAdD INDIAN]

Wink: It's time for you to adjust the timing chain tensioners on KA24DE. thats the rattling noise caused by it.

FAQ on Timing Chains in the KA24DE in the 240SX

Hope that helps.

 

We do not know that yet mAdD INDIAN, the worst thing to do when diagnosing problems is to guess, you MUST follow a methodical procedure to properly daignose noises/rough running problems.
This is a very distinct possibility that the chain is causing problems, but it is unwise to jump to conclusions.

 

[mAdD INDIAN]

Originally posted by: Roger
We do not know that yet mAdD INDIAN, the worst thing to do when diagnosing problems is to guess, you MUST follow a methodical procedure to properly daignose noises/rough running problems.
This is a very distinct possibility that the chain is causing problems, but it is unwise to jump to conclusions.

That is true.

Only reason I posted that, is because its required maintaince to adjust the timing chain tensioner every 100k miles on a 240SX. If he hasn't done it already, he might as well do it now. And if you don't do it, the engine will rattle...it's a known prolbem among 240SXs. But now that I think about it, it shouldn't cause the engine to idle higher (or rougher..but not sure if that's the case here). Could it be the EGR valve needs cleaning?

But your right, you should follow proper methodology. Since I'm not an experienced mechanic (or a real mechanic for that matter), I'll shut up now.

 

Don't shut up now, that was good advice

 

[mAdD INDIAN]

Originally posted by: Roger
Don't shut up now, that was good advice

whoa, I got the Roger Seal of Approval on Automotive advice! SWEEET!

 

[WinkOsmosis]

lump

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: WinkOsmosis
lump

LOL.. I found that amusing.

I also agree that the vibration problem probably isn't being caused by the cracked engine mounts, but it probably isn't helping to dampen the vibration either.

 

[rgwalt]

Before fixing the power steering problem, you can buy lots of power steering fluid for $350...

Ryan

 

[gregshin]

how about we just ditch that KA engine and swap in the japanese SR engine =)

 

[WinkOsmosis]

Originally posted by: rgwalt
Before fixing the power steering problem, you can buy lots of power steering fluid for $350...

Ryan

Yes, lots of power steering fluid for when the line flies off the barb and I lose control because I am too weak and I drive into a ditch.

 

[Quixfire]

I believe your model has fluid filled mounts and cracks can cause them to allow engine vibrations to transmit to the chassis.

 

[ApacheXMD]

i had a bad motor mount in my 92 SE-R. And it would vibrate and clunk whenever I let off the gas. I don't think that would mess with your idle though.

I fixed my motor mount problem myself with some 3M Windo-Weld. It's a urethane adhesive used to glue windshields to cars. OEM motor mounts are big circular rubber things mounted in a bracket-like thing. There are gaps in the rubber to allow for flex, and when the mount rubber wears, it can flex too much. So I filled in the gaps with the Windo-weld to have it not flex so much. I know for the sentra, OEM replacement mounts are in the 300 dollar range and the windo-weld was 12 dollars.

-patchy

 

[blahblah99]

Originally posted by: WinkOsmosis
1995 240sx. I got in my car today to go over to the apt complex hose for some washing. It took a little longer to start up, like 20%, then idled at 1300rpm, with the AC off (normal is like ~500 without/1000 with ac). Also, it was vibrating, at least too much for 1300rpm. Felt like it does at ~500, except with more energy.
I drove a little in the parking lot and could hear something that sounded like gears turning on each other, but very quiet.
I opened the hood and could hear something rattling. A few ticks per second. Anyone have any ideas? Transmission?


Update:
Dealer says the vibration is caused by cracked engine mounts. Does that make sense? Why would cracked (not broken) mounts cause vibration? They said those will have to be replaced "eventually". Will cost $300 to replace those mounts.
They say the whirring noise is caused by the power steering fluid being very low because of leaking. $352 to get that fixed.

The engine mount thing doesn't make sense so I am going to tell them not to do it.

Edit: Forgot something. She said the shifter was shaking with the rough idle because of a worn bushing. I don't remember how much that would cost to replace. Maybe she said that the power steering and the bushing were $352. Doh!

I've work with many 240s to know that the two most infamous problems on these cars are:

1. Timing chain rattle. Rev your engine slowly to 2,000 rpm and see if that rattle/knocking goes away as rpm increases. If it does, then that's the problem. The plastic guide eventually gets eaten away over time by the metal chain and many people just remove the guide altogether so the chain doesn't flap against the guide.

2. Heat shield rattle. This might also be what you're experiencing. It vibrates and makes noises during acceleration. People just remove this shield also.



Somehow I don't think the dealer is diagnosing the problem correctly, and they are overcharging you like a high class hoe.

 

[TechnoKid]

Originally posted by: ApacheXMD
i had a bad motor mount in my 92 SE-R. And it would vibrate and clunk whenever I let off the gas. I don't think that would mess with your idle though.

I fixed my motor mount problem myself with some 3M Windo-Weld. It's a urethane adhesive used to glue windshields to cars. OEM motor mounts are big circular rubber things mounted in a bracket-like thing. There are gaps in the rubber to allow for flex, and when the mount rubber wears, it can flex too much. So I filled in the gaps with the Windo-weld to have it not flex so much. I know for the sentra, OEM replacement mounts are in the 300 dollar range and the windo-weld was 12 dollars.

-patchy

Yeah, this is also the poorman's way of making "polyurethane" mounts (take out old mounts, fill, let cure, and put back in), although I think there are better compounds from 3M than the stuff you used.