My Bathtub Water Cooling System Project for Audio System

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cheez

Golden Member
Nov 19, 2010
1,722
69
91
The $453 you spend will be 150% worth it. It will be an amazing conversation piece and will spearhead social development. I say that the 30FT long cable to the bathtub is absolutely the only option in this scenario, as, like you said, no other computer or Operating System will even come close to the audio fidelity of Windows 2003 software.

Go for it, and never look back. You won't regret it.
The new cards and cheap cards didn't provide good video quality that I expected of. And the use of Windows 7 wasn't a good result for video either. I get best result with the ATi x1950xtx and Server 2003 for video.


cheez
 

cheez

Golden Member
Nov 19, 2010
1,722
69
91
The fins inside of water blocks are incredibly fine. You have to use distilled water for a water loop, you can't just run tap water through it, not unless you want to be taking it apart to clean it every month.
This is part true but you are exaggerating it. It doesn't need cleaning every month. My 10 year old block worked fine for several years with tap water. Never needed cleaning. And true, some blocks have very fine fins so it can collect gunk a little sooner. It depends on the design of the block you have.

This is why I recommend hunting hard for a full coverage block, because doing this yourself having never done watercooling before is quite likely to end up with a dead card. Neitherless you can get the job done and you will need adhesive heat sinks and in addition the low speed fan from above to blow over them, mainly to keep the VRMs cool.
Haven't you read my previous messages? I have years experience in watercooling and DIY phase change cooling. This is not new to me. I have watercool/superchilled video cards before. Plenty of it. But never needed to cool the VRM's because all the cards I cooled have gotten too cold that no cooling was needed on anything other than the GPU.

But in this case with mild watercooling taking extra steps to cool the VRM's would indeed be needed. I can do that. I still haven't fully decided if I want to go open loop water cooling method or just replace it with a quiet HSF. Those are just as expensive as the waterblock if not more. Not really money saving either way I go.


cheez
 

serpretetsky

Senior member
Jan 7, 2012
642
26
101
You sure can use tap water. I had used it for watercooling / phase change cooling for many years. Not a single problem with the block and pump. Several years of service and water flow is just as good as before. You did clearly admit to me that you are not experienced in watercooling which explains your panic about the use of tap water.


cheez

I think you have better tap water then I do. My brother ran tap water in his water cooling system for about 4 years. The radiator is both clogged and corroded (the tips are falling apart) and the cpu block was clogged with gunk.

Since you're going pretty ghetto as it is with your water cooling idea (i love ghetto computer cooling solutions, they have a lot of character) you may also consider removing your GPU fan and creating a fan duct to pipe in a much larger and slower fan into the same heatsink. My cousin had to do that when his GPU fan failed completely.

You might be able to do something similar with the PSU. You can also wire a resistor into the fan to supply it less voltage and slow it down, but you do risk overheating components.

Do you live somewhere where it's always cold outside?

Good luck with your setup.
 

cheez

Golden Member
Nov 19, 2010
1,722
69
91
I think you have better tap water then I do. My brother ran tap water in his water cooling system for about 4 years. The radiator is both clogged and corroded (the tips are falling apart) and the cpu block was clogged with gunk.
My waterblocks lasted for many years with tap water. I did not run into water flow issues. And I didn't use radiator as it was an open loop, with phase change cooling. My hose and blocks worked fine.

Since you're going pretty ghetto as it is with your water cooling idea (i love ghetto computer cooling solutions, they have a lot of character)
Yes me too.. I like creative and unique system. Some people just fail to understand it.


cheez
 

smackababy

Lifer
Oct 30, 2008
27,024
79
86
My waterblocks lasted for many years with tap water. I did not run into water flow issues. And I didn't use radiator as it was an open loop, with phase change cooling. My hose and blocks worked fine.

Yes me too.. I like creative and unique system. Some people just fail to understand it.


cheez

I don't understand what you mean an open loop with phase change cooling. Can you explain, in detail, your set up? The only experience I have with phase change would definitely not be described as an open loop in any way. And they didn't use water.
 

jaedaliu

Platinum Member
Feb 25, 2005
2,670
1
81
I don't understand what you mean an open loop with phase change cooling. Can you explain, in detail, your set up? The only experience I have with phase change would definitely not be described as an open loop in any way. And they didn't use water.

Yes, please explain how you achieved phase change cooling with tap water. Are you living at very high altitude?

Also, what is your budget? You've mentioned $450 is too much but I don't think you've mentioned how much you are willing to spend.
 

ruhtraeel

Senior member
Jul 16, 2013
228
1
0
The new cards and cheap cards didn't provide good video quality that I expected of. And the use of Windows 7 wasn't a good result for video either. I get best result with the ATi x1950xtx and Server 2003 for video.


cheez

I understood that from your previous post.

Like I said before, do it. You will have a unique conversation piece during gatherings around your HTPC, and you will feel like the star of the show. It's obviously the only viable performance option here, given your circumstances, and I know the feeling of low quality video/audio as the other person suggested in your previous thread; I also have had experience with Swiss-imported power cables to go with a Moon CD player.

Also, tap water is completely viable in this situation. If concerned, I would advise putting a bit of Drano in the loop to prevent buildup of unwanted materials. Not too much, obviously

Spend the $453 and never look back.
 
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smackababy

Lifer
Oct 30, 2008
27,024
79
86
Yes, please explain how you achieved phase change cooling with tap water. Are you living at very high altitude?

Also, what is your budget? You've mentioned $450 is too much but I don't think you've mentioned how much you are willing to spend.

Now that I think about it, I suppose you could use a phase change system to cool a water loop, but that would probably be a rather complicated solution for cooling unless you were extreme overclocking, and even then, phase change would be more efficient without the water I believe.


Another thing I am curious about is the "better video quality" with your current set up over a new set up. I am not sure if that is really the case.
 
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cheez

Golden Member
Nov 19, 2010
1,722
69
91
I don't understand what you mean an open loop with phase change cooling. Can you explain, in detail, your set up? The only experience I have with phase change would definitely not be described as an open loop in any way. And they didn't use water.
It's pretty simple and ghetto and very effective. 5+ cu ft deep freezer set to coldest setting. Filled up 30% tap water and 70% methanol, totaling about 40 gallons with temperature of -40C or colder (it's been a long time can't remember exact temperatures). Water pump submerged to it to feed liquid to the computer. There is no reservoir. The freezer acts as a reservoir sort of. I have cooled all sorts of chips, anything from Athlon XP processors to P4 Willamette processors and various video cards for xtreme benchmarking. I think I have supercooled the Duron chip too.. can't remember.


Yes, please explain how you achieved phase change cooling with tap water. Are you living at very high altitude?

Also, what is your budget? You've mentioned $450 is too much but I don't think you've mentioned how much you are willing to spend.
For supercooling I used mixture of methanol and tap water as described above.

My budget is cheapest possible. I think I'm just gonna watercool the GPU block only, with mild temperatures 15~ 20C to the GPU. I don't want to do phase change cooling as I need maximum reliability. This is intended as audio system. Can't afford a freezer right now as I spent all on power cables. :\


cheez
 
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cheez

Golden Member
Nov 19, 2010
1,722
69
91
I understood that from your previous post.

Like I said before, do it. You will have a unique conversation piece during gatherings around your HTPC, and you will feel like the star of the show. It's obviously the only viable performance option here, given your circumstances, and I know the feeling of low quality video/audio as the other person suggested in your previous thread; I also have had experience with Swiss-imported power cables to go with a Moon CD player.

Also, tap water is completely viable in this situation. If concerned, I would advise putting a bit of Drano in the loop to prevent buildup of unwanted materials. Not too much, obviously

Spend the $453 and never look back.
Thanks ruhtraeel for your positive encouragement. :) Oh nice Moon CD player... Heard good things about it. :) OH and the power cables too? Sweet!

Yeah I think going deep freezer is an overkill at this moment... But then either adjusting the thermalstat or just simply turning off part of the day may do the trick too. Can't get the freezer now but maybe later down the road... will use a big bucket in the bathtub for now. :D

Once I get it all setup I'll post video.

cheez
 

Cerb

Elite Member
Aug 26, 2000
17,484
33
86
I know you try to make logic but it doesn't really apply because I am not keeping my ATi Radeon x1950xtx video card for gaming. I don't game. The last time I gamed was 5 years ago. I am using this card purely for video playback as it provides the best PQ
Right. Because the same pixel shaders look so different between GPUs :rolleyes:. We have a pretty good thing going, today, in that you can have bit-perfect transfer of progressive content, and nearly-perfect transfer of interlaced content, right up the display's driver. With progressive, and using MPC:HC to help with timing and such, it's all in the display, with an nV or AMD GPU of about a 8600GT or faster (enough to apply some shader plugins to 1080P real-time).
 

Binky

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
4,046
4
81
It sounds like you're throwing $200+ at a $50 problem. An ATi 6550 (or higher) or Nvidia 430 (or higher) will have as good or better picture quality, run MUCH cooler, and have none of the hassle of a watercooled x1950.

I don't understand why you say that the x1950 has the best picture quality. I don't think this is true. It may have similar PQ, but not better or best.
 

Zorander

Golden Member
Nov 3, 2010
1,143
1
81
The root of the problem is very clearly the video card itself. Yet if OP is adamant with keeping it and prefers the band-aid solution, we are more than happy to oblige. :)

I can only see a few possibilities OP can take:
Buy proper water-cooling solutions [Expensive and may be hard to fit his legacy board]
Site PC in another room [Much work required]
Remove/replace the video card for a more current one [Practical but resistance expected]
Come up with some sort of ghetto cooling solution [Cheaper and fun but result can vary]
Do nothing [Noisy]

p.s. I might have missed this, but OP, what is your HTPC specs in full?
 

badb0y

Diamond Member
Feb 22, 2010
4,015
30
91
What is this? I don't even.

v2d5jh.jpg
 

cheez

Golden Member
Nov 19, 2010
1,722
69
91
Seriously guys, read his other threads before replying (and realizing it's futile).
What is wrong with my other threads? You wanna point to me which one that is? You have been posting nothing but worthless comments and attempt to make insults. Are you still holding grudge because I made your butt sore the other day for making worthless comments? Do you remember? ;)




Anyways, guys, I received the D-Tek Fuzion GFX 2 waterblock for my awesome (best performing for video) ATi Radeon X1950XTX video card.

4nhh.jpg


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Holly cow does it look sexy


cheez
 
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cheez

Golden Member
Nov 19, 2010
1,722
69
91
Guys, I ordered this last Monday. It took D-Tek Customs 3 days before actually getting it shipped. And that was after emailing them for status. After second attempt of emailing the vendor finally responded and said they will ship it. I paid $$$$$$$$ arm and leg for the fast shipping but the product ended up arriving on Saturday. That's 6 DAYS GUYS, SUPER DUPER SLOW. It seems D-Tek vendor has gone downhill. They can't ship it the same day or next day? Get da hell outta here. :D

I invited special guests at my place for lunch and show down of my "long distance open-loop exotic watercooling" audio system on next Saturday but I need to be ABSOLUTELY FREAKING SURE THAT THE WATERBLOCK ARRIVES BY THURSDAY. I have the gpu block now, but need a CPU block. I'm going to cool both with *slight* wattachillin'. My objective is to lower my Vcore from 1.25V to UNDER 1 volt. Anyone know any vendor that has the ability to ship the product in SAME DAY? OR NEXT DAY?? I can't take chance some vendor taking 3 days to ship a damn thing..... Anyone has magic? Thanks!!!


I can pick up the rest such as water tubing, barb fitting, hose clamps, etc at the hardware store so it's not a prob.. I'm going to use my old pump. Tested good.

cheez
 
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Agent11

Diamond Member
Jan 22, 2006
3,535
1
0
I would not use the cooler with ice as a reservoir, I also would not attempt to use ice to cool water in any reservoir, or use tap water in any closed loop system.

Tap water can cause scaling and could cause biological contamination. The ice chest will not be a good reservoir because it isn't sealed. It could be used, but it would not be optimal in my opinion because of the risk of leaks when moving it, the size, and risk of biological contamination. If you attempt to cool with water bellow ambient temperature(like with ice cubes) you need to insulate your blocks and tubing for condensation, plus you are running the risk of some half melted ice cube getting sucked into a block or the radiator, as well as risking biological contamination.

Another thing to point out, do not mix copper and aluminum because it will cause galvanic corrosion unless you use additives that lower waters ability to transfer heat, and even so take a look at many of the cooling systems on older cars to see how well these chemicals work.

One thing you may want to look up would be using a 'bong' cooler to exploit the phase change of water to cool slightly below ambient deltas. I read a work log once where a fellow in Australia made a large bong cooler and plumbed it into his house water with a float, like a toilet tank uses. The concept would not require a radiator or reservoir per say as those roles would be accomplished by the bong itself, although it will be evaporating into the area so putting it outside and pumping the water in may be a better idea than installing an exhaust fan... And because it is an open loop you would need to monitor for biological contamination.

Geothermal cooling could also be an option, if you feel like burying some lines or a tank and allowing the lower temperature underground cool your pc for you.

I once had a old mazda radiator that was pretty clean that I had set up in my basement and an aquarium pump to shuttle the water to my computer room... So water cooling is pretty flexible.
 
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cheez

Golden Member
Nov 19, 2010
1,722
69
91
I would not use the cooler with ice as a reservoir, I also would not attempt to use ice to cool water in any reservoir, or use tap water in any closed loop system.
It won't be a close loop system. It's open loop. I've used tap water for watercooling for nearly a decade. I have used distilled water and some additives for closed loop cooling too, but closed loop watercooling is not effective. It's never been effective as a general rule of thumb.

Tap water can cause scaling and could cause biological contamination.
Not only have I used tap water for nearly a decade but have used methanol. Kind of strange you didn't say how dangerous and toxic that actually is, since you are concerned about contamination from tap water. :D

The ice chest will not be a good reservoir because it isn't sealed.
I mounted insulation padding between the lid of the freezer and the container itself. There was a hole just enough for the water tubes to go through, hardly escaping air. Once the lid is closed it was well insulated. The freezer reservoir technique was used for many years without issues.

If you attempt to cool with water bellow ambient temperature(like with ice cubes) you need to insulate your blocks and tubing for condensation,
I am not going to use freezer at this time. I will be using the bathtub in my second bath... I was going to use the toilet but I think it doesn't hold enough water to cool both CPU and GPU.. As mentioned before due to condensation I am not going for all out phase change cooling on my audio system. I'm not going after the overclock, the system is underclocked and undervolted, but I will be shooting for below 1.0v Vcore for CPU with slightly chilled water cooling. How much does bathtub hold water? 40- 50 gal?

plus you are running the risk of some half melted ice cube getting sucked into a block or the radiator
I don't think you'll need to worry about ice cube getting stuck in the block.:D The hose in one direction (from bathtub in bathroom to entertainment center in living room) will be nearly 37ft. The ice will melt long before it reaches the block. :D Or melt in the block. :D You gotta keep in mind it will be intended as lightly chilled setup, not a phase change.

as well as risking biological contamination.
Enough with this biological contamination already. Methanol I used in the past is 100 times more harmful. :whiste: But for this water cooling, I will be using tap water only, with some ice. The fan may also be placed to blow some air to the tub to keep the ambient temp down.

Another thing to point out, do not mix copper and aluminum because it will cause galvanic corrosion
I've used various types of copper / aluminum mixed blocks for years in the past. No issues. These blocks are less than $50. They last more than long enough for the money paid. I wouldn't get too anal about galvanic corrosion so much. That's not the concern here.

I've got $700 but I will pay off my bill... not spending that money on cooling. I will be spending about $130 for my cooling ($100 for GPU and CPU block, $30 for tubing, fitting, hose clamps, etc)


cheez
 
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jaedaliu

Platinum Member
Feb 25, 2005
2,670
1
81
Guys, I ordered this last Monday. It took D-Tek Customs 3 days before actually getting it shipped. And that was after emailing them for status. After second attempt of emailing the vendor finally responded and said they will ship it. I paid $$$$$$$$ arm and leg for the fast shipping but the product ended up arriving on Saturday. That's 6 DAYS GUYS, SUPER DUPER SLOW. It seems D-Tek vendor has gone downhill. They can't ship it the same day or next day? Get da hell outta here. :D

I invited special guests at my place for lunch and show down of my "long distance open-loop exotic watercooling" audio system on next Saturday but I need to be ABSOLUTELY FREAKING SURE THAT THE WATERBLOCK ARRIVES BY THURSDAY. I have the gpu block now, but need a CPU block. I'm going to cool both with *slight* wattachillin'. My objective is to lower my Vcore from 1.25V to UNDER 1 volt. Anyone know any vendor that has the ability to ship the product in SAME DAY? OR NEXT DAY?? I can't take chance some vendor taking 3 days to ship a damn thing..... Anyone has magic? Thanks!!!


I can pick up the rest such as water tubing, barb fitting, hose clamps, etc at the hardware store so it's not a prob.. I'm going to use my old pump. Tested good.

cheez

Pick up the phone and call places. They can tell you if they will get it shipped same day or not. You're looking to pay a huge percentage of your item's cost for next day delivery. Do you have Amazon Prime? if so, just get it there. Even if it's $20 more, you know you'll get it in 2 days and the shipping costs are covered.
 

Binky

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
4,046
4
81
So you're going to pump methanol through your system? Isn't methanol a bit, ummm, flammable? And aren't you pumping it through an electronic computer, where a leak could cause a spark?

Sounds great.
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
20,894
3,247
126
So you're going to pump methanol through your system? Isn't methanol a bit, ummm, flammable? And aren't you pumping it through an electronic computer, where a leak could cause a spark?

Sounds great.

so u run liquid nitrogen!!

u need a nitrogen recycler and a compressor....
oh your PC will also be the size of a large warehouse as well. ;)


Anyhow on a serious note.
OP... i have no idea what ur trying to do and im a watercooling deity err specialist on this forum. :D

i have yet to even see u pick out a decient part.
I have yet to even see u nit pick a budget.
Have u even done half the research for watercooling?

I think u'd be far better off not watercooling and platform upgrading to a ULV HTPC setup, as a working setup would probably cost you 2/3rds of whatever Disneyland type watercooling your attempting.

Now that I think about it, I suppose you could use a phase change system to cool a water loop, but that would probably be a rather complicated solution for cooling unless you were extreme overclocking, and even then, phase change would be more efficient without the water I believe.


Another thing I am curious about is the "better video quality" with your current set up over a new set up. I am not sure if that is really the case.


Are we being anything serious in this thread?
Im VERY Close in locking it.

Phase Changing Tap water?? are u serious?
Its called a Liquid Chiller... and on a guy who has no idea what a proper LC setup is?

Chilled Watercooling is a completely different ballgame then from Ambient watercooling... u have no load with no temp regulator what do u think will happen to water inside a reservior with a AC heat exchanger sumberged?

Its called u'll form slush.. then a block of ice.... but b4 that u'll get condensation on your blocks, tubing... and well.... Water which is contaminated by condensing Air is not the best electrical insulator.


Anyhow im gonna let this thread run for a bit.... if i see no improvement... i will LOCK it...
This thread seems to be a nest of trolls...
Here is the problems i'd like to address..

1. OP... go study H20... click on my link and read the newbies guide.
2. OP... decide on a budget u wish to spend and then add about 33%... everyone always goes over.
3. Once u understood the basics.. as in parts which u will need... like a RADIATOR, then ask for parts advice....

But the moment u busted out a insulated cooler box... and talked about piping to the bathroom... 75% of the people who knows what watercooling is, considers this a joke.
Are u joking or being serious?
Because following the thread... it does seem like a pack of trolls.
 
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hans030390

Diamond Member
Feb 3, 2005
7,326
2
76
I know you've already gone ahead and ordered parts, but unless you don't have the case space (I really skimmed the thread), why not just get an aftermarket air cooler for your card? Hell, I used an Arctic Cooling Twin Turbo cooler (got on sale for $30) on my GTX 480. It was silent at 100% fan speed and cooled it extremely well.

Same for the CPU. You can get quiet air coolers, and some of the closed-loop water coolers work even better with the right, quiet fans.

Then work out the rest of your case cooling if need be.

Sounds like you are spending too much money and time with an overkill water system.
 

Ketchup

Elite Member
Sep 1, 2002
14,553
248
106
I know you've already gone ahead and ordered parts, but unless you don't have the case space (I really skimmed the thread), why not just get an aftermarket air cooler for your card? Hell, I used an Arctic Cooling Twin Turbo cooler (got on sale for $30) on my GTX 480. It was silent at 100% fan speed and cooled it extremely well.

Same for the CPU. You can get quiet air coolers, and some of the closed-loop water coolers work even better with the right, quiet fans.

Then work out the rest of your case cooling if need be.

Sounds like you are spending too much money and time with an overkill water system.

Ditto, maybe he just wants to have fun with it. I remember getting an Arctic Cooling fan for an nVidia card around the generation of cheez's and was shocked at how quiet it was.
 

Aikouka

Lifer
Nov 27, 2001
30,383
912
126
Hell, I used an Arctic Cooling Twin Turbo cooler (got on sale for $30) on my GTX 480. It was silent at 100% fan speed and cooled it extremely well.

Prior to my first post in this thread, I looked at those on Newegg, but none of them seemed to list the X1950XTX. Maybe I missed it though.