My *ahem* pretested D600>900 won't even post at 700...Any thoughts?

[Mitchster]

I purchased an Abit KT-7 RAID and A pretested unlocked Duron 600 that is supposed to hit 900 from overclockerz. I am able to hit 600 and 650, but anything higher and the machine won't even boot-up. I try to clear the CMOS (both ways: with the jumper, and with Ins-on boot) and nuttin..the only way I can get the machine to work again is to unplug everything from the Mobo (cept the CPU), and then plug it back in. This is with v-core at 1.8, so I tried goosing it up to 1.825, and the same thing happens. I only adjusted the multipler, not the FSB, as I don't wanna run PCI or AGP outta spec and the duron is unlocked...you can see the pencil lead on it Here's what I am running:
TNT AGP
Aopen FM56-P PCI Modem (slot 1)
Intel 21041 10/100B-T (slot 2)
SB Live (slot 4)
IDE1-Aopen 9632 DVD (master)
IDE2-HP 9100 CDRW (master)
IDE3-Maxtor 30GB 7200RPM (master) and WDC 9.1GB Expert (slave)
IDE4-Maxtor 30GB 7200RPM (master)
A Floppy (duh?)
Using a noname T-Bird HS/FAN which is pretty hefty-4500RPM while I wait for my FOP32 to come in from overclockerz, with thermal grease.
Aopen 235W power supply in ATX midtower case

My initial thought was that perhaps the power supply was too weak, especially cause I'm running so many drives, but I unplugged all the drives except my boot drive, and took out all the periphs, and I still couldn't get up to 700.
Temp@600 is ~35C
So what do I need to do to get this sucker up to 900?
Any and all help appreciated!

 

[StanFL]

It's possible the heatsink/fan is holding you back. To find out, install the Via Hardware Monitor, it should be on the cd that came with your KT7 motherboard. It provides a pretty accurate readout of your cpu temperature.

I'm running a unlocked Duron 600 on a non raid KT7, currently set to 8x100 @ 1.75 core voltage. The heatsink/fan is a generic which looks like the socket A Tsai Tol model. Via HM reports my cpu temp as 42C with no load on it. Before the cpu burnt in a bit I had to run 1.85 volts to get stable at 800. It's temp then was around 49-50C with no load.

If you have a pretty high cpu temp right now, that may be inhibiting your attempts at higher speeds.

 

[Rand]

Wait until you get the FOP32 if it doesnt clock higher after that, then contact whomever you bought it from.

 

[WellDuhh]

Well, it still could be a power supply problem. First off, with everything you have hooked up
up to your power supply, I'm suprised that it even runs. I had to change out my 250w PSU to
an 300w AMD approved unit just to get my computer to start, much less run. All I had hooked up
in my Duron 600Mhz sytem was a TNT2 video card and a WD 10 gig hard drive, and still the thing
wouldn,t even kick. It is best to go with an AMD approved power supply, and take in consideration
the amount of hardware you are running when choosing one. Also something important to look for while checking out the AMD APPROVED power supplies list, is for the combined power rating.
Notice that some 300w PSU s' are as low as 140-150w, while others are 170, 180 and even 220w. (Duron 700)

You might also check the L1 bridges on the CPU. If all they did was use a pencil to unlock
it,the lead traces across the L1 briges may not all be intact, or they may have weakened from
handling. Now as for cooling goes, my temps range 41-45C, and I'm running a Duron 600@825Mhz (7.5x110),1.7v using only an inexpesive Cooler Master HS, with no problems.

 

[Mitchster]

Hrmm, I' a little confused. I've been scouring the web and I saw that Anand had a guide on how to interpret the numbers on the CPU, and it seems that my voltage may be too high? I don't want to mess with trying to get the fan off the CPU, but what voltage should I be running? The abit KT7 picked up 1.8 and 3.3, and I'm beginning to think this is a little too high as I've seen some places say that they should run at 1.5-1.7.
As for the L1 bridges, it easily let me change the multiplier from 6.0 to 6.5, so i assume that the pencil trick is working.
Do you think that I should try turning DOWN the voltage and then trying to change the multiplier. It's such a pain in the butt to get the machine to post after it's failed, as I can't even get into the bios without pulling all the cards out and such. I put the jumper on CMOS discharge 2-3 and hold the power on button, but the machine never boots. Hold INS while booting does nothing...Am I missing something? If I could get the machine to reboot upon fail, I would at least mess with the multiplier some more....
Thanks for the help so far...

 

[MadRat]

My Duron runs on a 235W generic p/s from 650mHz stock all the way up to 1gHz. The powersupply probably is not causing the problem. Poor airflow can be a real problem. I now customize every one of my generic powersupplies to suck air off the cpu.

To think I am just using a plainjane Intel OEM h/s-fan setup.

 

[Mitchster]

Well, I did find out that b4 week 31 duron 600s run at 1.5v, and after 31's run at 1.6
So I took it down from 1.8 to 1.6 and then tried taking it up to 700 and again the machine locked up. The only way to get back into the BIOS (even clearing the cmos don't work), is to unplug the atx power supply, pull out the memory and the video card, and then plug it all back in again, then I can get back in. Currently, I'm running it at a measly 650 @1.6
I think Overclockerz is gonna get a call for selling me this dud that was supposed to be pretested to 900.
BTW, I noticed all 4 of the l1 bridges have been connected. Shouldn't only the first one be joined? Would the other 3 cause the problems i'm seeing?

 

[fastvideo]

1) duron600 oem,i never try with those pretested cpu, because not sure what kind of setup or voltage setting they are using???
2) power supply 250w that comes with the case,on my old k7 classic 500 o/c @ 850, it works ok with the 250w thats comes with the case, and i have try enermax 450w, i don't see much difference.
3) heatsink, i have at least 7 of them on my desk, for my duron 600 the temp was at 38c at start and over 58c with all these. but with the alpha 31c start and 45c max.

here is my systems:
1) abit k7t raid, oem duron600, nec 128m/pc133, ibm ata100/30g, aopen 52x cd, cheap tnt2/m64 videocard, alpha pal6035 hsf,250w power supply with case. 600@default1.5v, 800@1.85v, 900@1.94v,to get it to 900, i have to modified my m/b to reach 1.94v!!!

2) asus k7m, oem athlon 500 classic, micron 128m/pc133, quantum ata66/13.6g, pioneer 10xdvd, yamaha 4416 cdr, matrox g400 video card, alpha p7125 hsf, enermax 450w power supply. 500@default, 750@1.75v 1/2 cache, 850@2.05v 2/5 cache. max temp 54c.

3) abit bh6,oem c566, 128m/pc100, acer 50xcd, quantum ata66/9.1g and wd ata66/10.2g, modified fasttrak100 raid, voodoo banshee videocard, taisol cek733092 hsf, 250w with case. 850@1.9v

 

[MadRat]

Don't forget to run RC5 for TeamAnandtech with those Durons!
We need alot more RC5 crackers to regain our notoriety.

 

[DaddyG]

Mitch,

Its best to test your cpu with minimal components connected. Use 1 hardrive only. It appears that your Duron has been pre-modded to a higher default voltage by connecting L7 bridges. Send it back if it won't dance with your setup.

 

[Danny]

I had a similar problem with my thunderbird 800. It was a very odd problem and took me a couple hours to fix.
I got my thunderbird 800, fop38, and abit kt7. I used the pencil trick
to connect the bridges and put everything in. Wouldn't start... my system made a series of beeps though, which I knew stood for something, but didn't know what. I called the abit hotline, and he listened to the beeping and knew right away it was a video card problem. He told me to readjust the video card, which i did. Worked fine. (good service )first thing I did was try to adjust the multiplier (of course).
Now this is where it started to get weird.
It would allow me to adjust the multiplier to 8.5, and it would allow me to run at 850. When I set it to 9X multiplier, it ran at 700mhz. When i set it to 9.5X, it ran at 750, and so on. It wouldn't even boot if i set it at less than a 7X multiplier. I figured my pencil job was done incorrectly so i took the fan off(which was very hard btw) reapplied it and tried again. Same thing happened. So I took the fan off again...
To make a long story short, I took the fan on and off (with the help of a screwdriver) about 10 times. Sometimes it would do that weird thing, other times, changing the multiplier wouldn't affect the multiplier at all. Nothing I did would work. Finally, on what I said to myself would be my last attempt, I decided to try something new. I used a normal #2 pencil instead of the mechanical .7mm lead one i was using. I had to sharpen it with a knife as my pencil sharpener was nowhere to be found. It worked! Multiplier works perfectly. I figured for sure I'd mess the core up with the constant reapplying of the fan, but I somehow didn't. So maybe your pencil applying is off? you can erase it and reapply it many times. (I know) Does it underclock?

P.s. Exuse my probable grammar mistakes as I wrote this up quickly.

 

[cpars]

Mitch,

Have you tried adjusting the I/O voltage in the soft menu.I have had much better success with 3.5 - 3.6. Also with all the abit boards I have owned when i get a freeze due to overclocking, all i do is unplug the power supply and restart a couple of times and it will reset to defaults by the third time, never had to remove other components.

 

[HecDTec]

I have a generic case fan myself and one voltage is out of tolerance (-5v), but I still oc to 950Mhz on a 700Mhz Duron. I heard the pencil trick doesn't always work or work for long. Why don't you try using a Defroster repair kit? I've heard people using it to make good connections on the bridges. I bought mine when Tom (Tomshardware.com)and Anand (Anantech.com) stated that AMD might fix the cpu bridges. So mine are intact. I check my PS voltages from CMOS before rebooting to windows to test the overclock. Maybe that will help. Good Luck.

 

[Mitchster]

DaddyG, yeah, that is what I was starting to suspect, because it's defaulting to 1.8, and that is with the UL BIOS. It normally should be 1.5 or 1.6, but either way, it definitly won't go up to 900 at 1.8, and this is with only one HD and an AGP card plugged in. Hopefully I will get a response from Overclockerz to see how they got this thing to run at 900..that is if they even tested it...
Cpars, thanks for that info on resetting the CMOS, i think that may be my same problem. Next tiem it craps out, I will unplug the power supply and try that
Also, my 12v is running at about 11.5, is this anything is worry about?

 

[DaddyG]

Mitch,

Your 12v is within the 5% tolerence for your supply. 12V is used for harddrive and CD-rom motors and fan headers, they are not that sensitive. Your problem could be memory related, have you tried backing off your memory timings to the most conservative settings and then tweaking them little at a time. Another thought is that maybe the pencil deal is just not good. I think that it is REALLY cheesy to sell overclocked cpus with just pencil lead (graphite). They should do the bridges with the defogger repair fluid. It conducts much better than graphite (defoggers pull lots of amps).