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MUST read for those experiencing Slow network speed or constant reboot issues

PUN

Golden Member
I have finally found the reason why I had such problems with my WRT610N for the past few weeks. I hope this helps many of you with similar problem (not limited to WRT610N).

For the past few weeks, I was experiencing constant reboot, unstable wifi, slow wifi transfer speed (1-1.5MB/sec), etc. I spent hours and tried literally everything.
Upgraded to DD-WRT (5 different versions), Reinstall windows, and all the usual sing and dance listed below.

To make a long story short, it seems that my AC Adaptor was burning hot and supplying not enough juice to the router. Upon replacement with more highly rated AC, I noticed ROCK solid connection to all my Ethernet port, Dual radio bands and many other settings. My wifi transfer rate has gone from 1-1.5MB/s to 8.5-9.5MB/s.

Ebay currently sells 5A 120-240V adaptors for 9.99, for those who are interested. Or try any spare AC you may have (rated higher of course).

I hope this helps some of you out there!


+++++++++++++++++from my previous thread+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I currently have:
PC, VOIP phone, 2 Wifi Laptops connected to this router.

Whenever I connect my PC through CAT5, the router keeps resetting and I am unable to connect. I tried disabling VOIP and 2 Wifi; tried different Port, but still no connection.
I tried Hard reset, soft reset, PC reboot, all the drivers & firmware updated (both Ethernet and Router)

If the PC is not connected, the VOIP phone and wifi devices work great. As soon as the PC is plugged in, it resets every 10 sec.

I tried PCI Ethernet card (as I was using integrated port before), and the problem still remains.

The problem is not the cable(tried swapping), ISP, router, nor the ethernet on my PC.
Do you think it's the OS itself causing my router to reboot? My PC is due for a format but I rather not, if not neccessary.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
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Good thinking, all too often those routers are tossed when it's just the AC adapter's fault. My DIR-655 had a similar problem, onl I had a spare wall-wart that fit with same voltage but an extra 2 amps, now has been on for 6 months no problems and I can get wifi at my neighbors house 8 houses away.

Glad you were able to fix the problem for cheap!
 
Yeah, hardware is hardware and things can fail.

It good to remind people to check the adapters.

But regardless of the adapters, most of the currently manufactured Wireless Routers "S*x" to begin with.


😎
 
Good job on the diagnosis! Luckily you didn't have to replace the router to solve the problem. I don't know if I would have thought to replace the AC adapter in that situation, but if it worked - great!!
 
Good job on the diagnosis! Luckily you didn't have to replace the router to solve the problem. I don't know if I would have thought to replace the AC adapter in that situation, but if it worked - great!!

I had tried everything so it just came down to either a faulty router (failing chipset) or AC adaptor. I kinda feel like the one who calls the tech support for a non-booting PC and finds out the PC wasn't even plugged in.

For all these time, I thought the AC adaptor was all or nothing. I didn't realize it could still supply power but not enough for the device to malfunction.

I had actually ordered 2x WRT54G (these things are great as I have 4 in my offices for 8 years, 24/7 without requiring a reboot) to replace my WRT610 and keep one as a backup (paid only $42shipped for both). I was actually going to forgo N-wifi, Gigabit, USB Ext HD, etc for stability of WRT54G, but I am glad I can keep all these features.
 
Can we get a link to the adaptor you eventually got?

I actually had a spare adaptor which had higher rating than 1A (600mA), which was 2A (1000mA)...not sure where I got it.

Here is the link to the ebay which is suppose to the best for any router (little overkill imo):
http://cgi.ebay.com/AC-Adapter-Link...050287?pt=COMP_EN_Routers&hash=item2a0ad04eef


These ones would work fine with any router as well:
http://cgi.ebay.com/AC-Adapter-Link...497?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5195c7ba39
 
I actually had a spare adaptor which had higher rating than 1A (600mA), which was 2A (1000mA)...not sure where I got it.

uh... maybe i'm just not understanding something, but your conversion is wrong. 600 mA is .6 amps. 1000 mA is 1 amp. 2 amps would be 2000 milliamps. (mA)
 
uh... maybe i'm just not understanding something, but your conversion is wrong. 600 mA is .6 amps. 1000 mA is 1 amp. 2 amps would be 2000 milliamps. (mA)

You are right. I am just reading off of what's written on my adaptor, and who knows what these manufacturers are falsely claiming.

My guess is under 120-240v, it's most rated at 2A.

It might have been 1A input and 2A input, old and new respectively...my new adaptor is much bigger in size and had higher rating than the old one (remembered seeing 600mA on the old one)
 
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couldn't this eventually fry the router?

In power supply the relation goes like this.

If the unit require 12V 1A, any power supply that is 12V and above 1A works OK.

Even if the adapter is 12v 1000A the unit will just take what it needs.

If the adapter is 24V 1A (example) the device that it is plugged into will probably Fry because it gets to high Voltage in.

If the adapter is 12V 200ma (0.2 A) the adapter will be will probably Fry, because the device takes too much current from the adapter.

Voltage has to match. Current capacity can be higher than needed.


😎
 
In power supply the relation goes like this.

If the unit require 12V 1A, any power supply that is 12V and above 1A works OK.

Even if the adapter is 12v 1000A the unit will just take what it needs.

If the adapter is 24V 1A (example) the device that it is plugged into will probably Fry because it gets to high Voltage in.

If the adapter is 12V 200ma (0.2 A) the adapter will be will probably Fry, because the device takes too much current from the adapter.

Voltage has to match. Current capacity can be higher than needed.


😎

Voltage can usually be +/- 10-15%, even those that say 12v .5amp required you can get by with a 13.4v adapter or even a 9v sometimes. Otherwise I agree.
 
In power supply the relation goes like this.

If the unit require 12V 1A, any power supply that is 12V and above 1A works OK.

Even if the adapter is 12v 1000A the unit will just take what it needs.

If the adapter is 24V 1A (example) the device that it is plugged into will probably Fry because it gets to high Voltage in.

If the adapter is 12V 200ma (0.2 A) the adapter will be will probably Fry, because the device takes too much current from the adapter.

Voltage has to match. Current capacity can be higher than needed.


😎

I better check to see if my new unknown adaptor is not 24v...don't want to cause fire in my building.
 
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