Multimeters? What's the difference?

[Kelemvor]

So, I want to pick up a multimeter so I can test electrical outlets and power adapters and things to make sure things are working properly. However, I don't know what the difference is between them to know what I need.

Can anyone help?

I was checking on Menards.com and they range from Under $10 to $200+ and I don't know why I'd want one over the other.

http://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=multimeter&sortby=priceAsc

I'm assuming that for what I'd use it for, one of the cheapest ones would work fine but just wanted to check and see if anyone knows more about them than I do to offer any feedback.

Thanks.

 

[PottedMeat]

if you like moving needles and can ballpark the range (i.e. 'i think this outlet is ~120V, so i'll put the dial on '0-200V AC'), get an analog meter

the easiest to use imho is a autoranging digital meter ( it will automatically detect the range, you still need to select AC/DC/Ohms )

current measurement is nice to have

 

[Kelemvor]

I saw one thing that said to get oen that has a separate port for the Volts/Ohms vs Amps but most of the less expensive ones have those combined into one (only 2 ports total). is that a big deal? I'm assuming not for someone in my position. Looks like $20-$30 can get me an auto sensing digital reader so I guess I'll see what they have in the store.

Thanks.

 

[PottedMeat]

current measurement is essentially a short circuit to whatever you hook the probes up to.

If you get one with a 2 ports and current measurement what can happen is that you want to measure voltage but accidentally leave it on current - blowing the fuse in the meter or possibly damaging the device you're measuring

with 3 ports every time you want to measure current you move the probe, for anything else you swap it back

 

[Muse]

I have a very old analog that I very seldom use. I have around 1/2 dozen super cheapies that I picked up at Harbor Freight for maybe $3 or even free with their coupons. I use those to check battery voltage, or maybe continuity of a wire (ohms). Those sometimes malfunction, the readings can be questionable. I have a decent medium tier MM for more critical usage that I pull out sometimes.

 

[BUTCH1]

Since you won't be testing in anything critical a HF cheapie will do just fine, as time goes by you might want to get better probes for it but other than that they work fine for basic needs.

 

[olds]

Autoranging is great.
I also like meters that beeps when testing ohms if the circuit isn't open. Also a meter that holds the last reading in memory for a bit. Both of these functions are nice when you aren't in a position to look at the face of the meter.

And for a noob, overload protection.

 

[BUTCH1]

I saw one thing that said to get oen that has a separate port for the Volts/Ohms vs Amps but most of the less expensive ones have those combined into one (only 2 ports total). is that a big deal? I'm assuming not for someone in my position. Looks like $20-$30 can get me an auto sensing digital reader so I guess I'll see what they have in the store.

Thanks.

Even my HF $7 has the 3 ports, the extra port is for testing amps above 200 milliamps with a max of 10 amps.

 

[dandruff]

If you dont need temp. this is the best deal out there ... does TRMS + does DC Current .. not many do that ... and NCV ...

https://amzn.com/B00O1Q2HOQ

Uni-T UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp Meters w/ Capacitance Tester

hth!

 

[BUTCH1]

Autoranging is great.
I also like meters that beeps when testing ohms if the circuit isn't open. Also a meter that holds the last reading in memory for a bit. Both of these functions are nice when you aren't in a position to look at the face of the meter.

And for a noob, overload protection.

Yea, agree, they can save you a lot of time by not having to take your eyes off what your working on and go back and forth from the meter and whatever it is your testing.

 

[olds]

Two other tools I find useful for what the the OP proposes.
https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-ST-102B-Socket-Tester-GFCI/dp/B008E07HM2

https://www.amazon.com/Non-Contact-Voltage-Detector-Electrical/dp/B019EJXUJU

 

[PottedMeat]

If you dont need temp. this is the best deal out there ... does TRMS + does DC Current .. not many do that ... and NCV ...

https://amzn.com/B00O1Q2HOQ

Uni-T UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp Meters w/ Capacitance Tester

hth!

wow dc current clamp - doesn't seem too bad at all:
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/

 

[dandruff]

wow dc current clamp - doesn't seem too bad at all:
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/

yup ... especially when you are working on car electronics ... whats draining my battery ... this little meter should be 3 times its price ...

 

[tortoise]

test electrical outlets

A watt monitor may be another option . . ebay . . youtube.

 

[DrPizza]

For your use - outlets and power supplies, a $10 multimeter is good enough. You will likely never need to measure current. So don't. Don't ever measure current and accidentally leave the probe connected to the wrong input. Expensive multimeters have fuses to protect them. Cheap multimeters go "poooooof" with a big cloud of black smoke, melting the wires to the probes. For that reason, some people always recommend a meter that this will not happen with. I think awareness of this - you can be injured if you screw up the settings when working with 120V either scares people away, or results in them being cautious. I've had a high school student do this - he wasn't injured. I was fortunate in preventing the smoke detector from going off. But, I've taken steps that will lessen the chances of it ever happening again.

Cheap will be accurate enough for your needs. There are some instances where cheap may give you inaccurate results - but you're not analyzing circuit boards, are you? If not, the likelihood of running into situations where the results aren't accurate enough is pretty slim (afaik). Here's more info: https://tangentsoft.net/elec/meters.html

 

[BUTCH1]

For your use - outlets and power supplies, a $10 multimeter is good enough. You will likely never need to measure current. So don't. Don't ever measure current and accidentally leave the probe connected to the wrong input. Expensive multimeters have fuses to protect them. Cheap multimeters go "poooooof" with a big cloud of black smoke, melting the wires to the probes. For that reason, some people always recommend a meter that this will not happen with. I think awareness of this - you can be injured if you screw up the settings when working with 120V either scares people away, or results in them being cautious. I've had a high school student do this - he wasn't injured. I was fortunate in preventing the smoke detector from going off. But, I've taken steps that will lessen the chances of it ever happening again.

Cheap will be accurate enough for your needs. There are some instances where cheap may give you inaccurate results - but you're not analyzing circuit boards, are you? If not, the likelihood of running into situations where the results aren't accurate enough is pretty slim (afaik). Here's more info: https://tangentsoft.net/elec/meters.html

Yea, agree, my $7 HF seems to be decent with accuracy although in that price range the leads are flimsy and a PITA. With a clamp-meter anyone can measure current without the danger of running it through the meter itself. I've always wanted to see just how many amps my car's battery is supplying when I start it.

 

[Kelemvor]

I picked up one of these while I was out today. On sale for only $22 after the MIR. Doesn't do Amps but I'll worry about that if I ever need it.

http://www.menards.com/main/electri...44431009450-c-6452.htm?tid=487075763329112383

 

[Jeff7]

I picked up one of these while I was out today. On sale for only $22 after the MIR. Doesn't do Amps but I'll worry about that if I ever need it.

http://www.menards.com/main/electri...44431009450-c-6452.htm?tid=487075763329112383

Should be fine for basic use.

Testing adapters and outlets is pretty basic stuff for a multimeter to do.

The more expensive ones offer:
- Improved internal safety against catastrophic failure and voltages well above basic line voltages. A super-cheap meter will probably end up using the whole meter as a fuse if something's hooked up very wrong, so you buy a new meter. (Probably not good to leave one hooked up unattended though, just in case there's any hot metal.)
- Better accuracy. You probably won't care if it's off by a percent or so though.
- Faster response time. A cheap meter can be fairly sluggish when it comes to displaying a value. This is more of an issue if you're doing this for work and don't want to spend 5 seconds waiting for your meter to figure out if it needs to display 5V or 7V. A high-end meter can do many samples per second. There's one at work that can do 20 samples per second and has built-in datalogging of more than 40,000 datapoints.
- USB connection to a PC.
- They actually adhere to the standards they claim to meet. Some of the cheap ones will put all kinds of certifications labels on the casing without actually having or meeting any of them.

 

[Triumph]

If you dont need temp. this is the best deal out there ... does TRMS + does DC Current .. not many do that ... and NCV ...

https://amzn.com/B00O1Q2HOQ

Uni-T UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp Meters w/ Capacitance Tester

hth!

I have this one and like it, especially for the clamp on ammeter. Great for testing how much current you are actually pulling.

 

[Red Squirrel]

Mostly quality, and safety. I would not put a $10 one on mains. A typical ~$50 hardware store brand one is going to be fine for most stuff. The $200+ ones will usually have more accuracy and features and are more suitable precise electronics work. I just ordered a Greenlee myself as all the ones I have are lower end.

 

[Elixer]

Since you won't be testing in anything critical a HF cheapie will do just fine, as time goes by you might want to get better probes for it but other than that they work fine for basic needs.

Pretty much this, HF has them free as well with their 'super saver' coupons... and they are basically the same as the el-cheapo brand in all stores.

If you need very accurate reading, then you need to step up and pay more, but for testing batteries & outlets, the el-cheapos do just fine.

 

[who?]

The U.S.P.S. used to pay Fluke $100 per multimeter per year for calibration. Now they just buy new $34 multimeters each year.

 

[John Connor]

If you dont need temp. this is the best deal out there ... does TRMS + does DC Current .. not many do that ... and NCV ...

https://amzn.com/B00O1Q2HOQ

Uni-T UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp Meters w/ Capacitance Tester

hth!

That looks like a mighty fine DMM! I just have a cheap Harbor Freight model and have been meaning to buy a Fluke. But I think I'll buy this one. Added to the More shit to buy bookmarks folder. LOL

 

[Eli]

That looks like a might fine DMM! I just have a cheap Harbor Freight model and have been meaning to buy a Fluke. But I think I'll buy this one. Added to the More shit to buy bookmarks folder. LOL

AC Current (A) 2A/20A/100A (±2.5%+5)
DC Current (A) 2A/20A/100A (±2%+3)
AC Voltage (V) 2V/20V200V/600V (1.0%+3)
DC Voltage (V) 200mV/2V/20V200V/600V (±0.7%+3)
Resistance (&#937 200Ω/2KΩ/20KΩ/200KΩ/2MΩ/20MΩ (±1.0%+2)
Capacitance (F) 2nF/20nF/200nF/2μF/20μF/200μF/2mF/20mF(±4%+5)

D: Garbage. Though of course fine for the price and for home/hobby use. But these types of meters compare in no way, shape or form to a Fluke.

 

[John Connor]

I'm just looking for true RMS and the added benefit of a 1mA resolution with a clamp is appealing.