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Mouse LED Swap (Guide)

mavericksvt

Junior Member
Guide Provided By Diypcmods.com

Background information on Optical Mouse Technology

An optical mouse uses a tiny camera to take approximately 1,500 pictures every second. The pictures are taken by bouncing light from a small, light-emitting diode (LED) off the surface under the mouse, and onto a complimentary metal-oxide semiconductor (CMOS) sensor. The CMOS sensor sends each image to a digital signal processor (DSP) for analysis. The DSP, operating at 18 MIPS (million instructions per second), is able to detect the changing patterns in the images between movements. Based on these patterns, the DSP determines how far the mouse has moved and sends the corresponding coordinates to the computer. The computer moves the cursor on the screen based on the coordinates received. Since this happens hundreds of times each second, the cursor appears to move very smoothly.

Because optical mice use a LED to track movement by reflecting light of the surface in to the CMOS sensor you can usually change the light source or LED without any resulting issues with the mouse?s normal operation. To make sure the LED is bright enough you need to use an LED that has a MCD rating of 500 or more.

**This mod just like any other can be dangerous. Please use caution when handling any electrical and metal components as it can result in shock or injury and damage to the components. In other words do not try this unless you are confident enough to attempt such mods and can afford to replace any components involved.**

Disassembly

Optical mice are usually made of a single circuit board inside of an outer plastic shell. On the circuit board contains all components that help the mouse function. The first part of the mod will be getting to the circuit board. If your mouse has batteries remove them first. Next we will be locating the screws that hold the outer shells together and acquire the proper tool to remove them. Make sure you locate all screws holding the mouse together. Many times manufacturers will place the screws under labels and slide pads make sure you check all these places.

Removing the screws should be fairly easy. Make sure you don?t force the screws and risk stripping them. After removing the screws the two halves of the mouse?s plastic shell should come apart with little or no effort at all. This will expose the circuit board and internal components. Be very careful with this part as some mice can contain very small springs and other parts that can be easily lost when removing the shell.

After the shell has been removed and you have exposed the circuit board you can now remove the shell altogether. Remember that when handling any circuit board it is vital that you never expose the board to any type of electric shock which includes static electricity. Once the board is free from its shell its time to locate the LED. This particular mouse has a plastic shroud that focuses the LED's light. The shroud can be seen in the picture above surrounded by the orange outline.
led cover off

Here we have removed the shroud and exposed the LED. Most mice won?t have a shroud covering the LED but if your does it is usually held in place by two or four plastic clips that hold it to the board. Removing the shroud can be a little difficult depending on the placement and how many clips there are. We were able to remove the shroud by taking a small screw driver and pushing in the pins from the back side of the board. Be careful not to scratch the board with the screw driver while doing this.

The Swap

On the last page we explained the process for disassembling your optical mouse. Now it?s time to perform the surgery part of this guide and swap out the LED. The main requirement for this part is to have decent soldering skills. If you have never soldered before the best thing to do is practice. The best way to do this is to take two pieces of wire and practice soldering them together and back apart. If you need additional information on soldering you can find it here.

Removing the LED can be some what of a hassle. One thing you need to make note of at this point is where the wires from the LED make contact with the board. Some boards will have markings that label which wire is positive and which one is negative. If not you need to make a note or mark the board with a marker on the positive side. You can refer to the picture above help identify which side you need to mark.

Now it's time to actually remove the LED itself. Apply heat from the soldering iron to each contact point on the board until the solder turns shiny and melts. Once melted you should be able to pull the LED out of the board. Keep in mind the LED will probably be hot from the soldering iron so wont want to pull it without gloves or pliers.

Now its time to match up the replacement LED with the original. Make any necessary bends in the LED wire and or cut off any additional length. This will ensure the replacement will fit perfectly. With a perfectly matched LED you can solder the new LED into place. Make sure that you have positive wire in the right spot otherwise you will have to repeat the unsoldering and re-soldering process again. The re-soldering process should be allot like the unsoldering process although you might have to add solder to the contact points on the board if there is not enough.

Reassembly

After the LED is securely in place and has had ample time to cool down the next step is to replace the shroud that covers it. It should be easier to replace just by snapping the shroud into place using its clips. Now you can insert the circuit board back into the plastic shell and replace and loose parts and buttons. Once you have fully reassembled the mice pieces and enclosed them inside the shell you can replace the screws that hold it all together.

For full images on this guide please visit Diypcmods.com
 
Maverick,

Welcome to the forums. I looked at your site, and I'd like to suggest that many of the mods you suggest on your site are dangerous to attempt without providing any real benefit.

If you know which end of a soldering iron to hold, changing the LED is simple and straight ahead. If you don't, you shouldn't be thinking about changing components in your gear. There are too many ways to ruin a circuit board if you don't know what you're doing, especially around surface mounted parts. There could be another problem if the photo-sensor happens to be less sensitive to the color of the new LED after the change.

Other mods on your site, like putting a window in the top of a CD/DVD drive are dangerous, and they do nothing for performance, but if it's something you really want to do, again, experience is really necessary to do a clean, good looking, well finished job of cutting the case and adding the plex window. The danger, here, is, if any microscopic metal or plastic particles get in the drive, you could kill it. This is NOT the same as putting a window in the side of a computer case. The parts in an optical drive are precision aligned, and the drive won't tolerate any loose crud floating around inside.

Cutting up IDE cables to make them round may work, but when you get to the fine wires and close spacing in 80 wire ATA 133 cables, it's far too easy to cut into a wire or at least, to cut through the insulation, leaving one or more wires exposed. There's a reason for that insulation. It won't save you enough over just buying ready made round cables.

IMHO, if you're going to do mods, they may as well do something. Overclocking is a good example. The danger is there, but if it works, at least your system is giving you better performance for the investment of time and risk. I do, and it does. 😎

In addition to the tools you list for the LED change, you need another one for your job -- a spell checker. For example, I am positive the word is posItive, not posAtive.
 
Originally posted by: Harvey
Maverick,

Welcome to the forums. I looked at your site, and I'd like to suggest that many of the mods you suggest on your site are dangerous to attempt without providing any real benefit.

.

Hence my original response.

Why someone would want to do these things is beyond me.

As for mice, optical mice should be using IR LED's instead of red (or whatever color the user wants to put there). Laser mice use near IR LED's (same type used in CD players) and are not very noticeable which is a plus IMO.

 
Originally posted by: MS Dawn
Originally posted by: Harvey
Maverick,

Welcome to the forums. I looked at your site, and I'd like to suggest that many of the mods you suggest on your site are dangerous to attempt without providing any real benefit.

.

Hence my original response.
Got that, but I tried to be constructive. No need to call him out for spamming. 🙂
Why someone would want to do these things is beyond me.
Great minds think alike. Small ones, too. 😉
As for mice, optical mice should be using IR LED's instead of red (or whatever color the user wants to put there). Laser mice use near IR LED's (same type used in CD players) and are not very noticeable which is a plus IMO.
Yep. You really don't want to try to replace a laser light source without knowing what you're doing.

Maverick -- Don't give up going for your wildest ideas. I'm an electronic design engineer, and some of my best ideas have come from wide open brain scatting. Just think through your ideas a little more before trying to pull them off... or make sure you've got a big budget to cover replacing whatever crashes on you from the attempt. 😎

Believe me, I've fried enough components on the way up the learning curve. :laugh:
 
The guides on the site are simply for instructional purposes only. As for dangerous, any modding can be considered dangerous. Overclocking for example can kill your computer just like any thing else and for what? A little extra speed. All you're saying is that if you want a case window dont DIY just go buy it. Thats just like saying If you want a faster computer buy a faster processor dont OC.

Anyway, I appreciate the feedback.



 
Originally posted by: mavericksvt
The guides on the site are simply for instructional purposes only. As for dangerous, any modding can be considered dangerous. Overclocking for example can kill your computer just like any thing else and for what? A little extra speed.
A little? My Athlon 1800+ T'bred (1.5 GHz stock) has been running @ 2 GHz (2400+) for several years, and it seldom breaks 40 deg. C on the hottest summer day. However, you absolutely CAN see the 33% speed difference.
All you're saying is that if you want a case window dont DIY just go buy it. Thats just like saying If you want a faster computer buy a faster processor dont OC.
No. I'm saying consider what you're doing, how to do a good clean, attractive job, and have some idea of what the dangers are. Remember, I design circuit boards for products and use a solder iron regularly.

In the case of the LED for the mouse, your guide is a bit short of what you need to consider, including the kind of LED that will work for a given mouse and better info about good soldering technique.

In the case of the CD/DVD window, the most important thing is to avoid getting ANY loose particulate chaff from the shell or plex in the drive. Beyond that, if you want it to look really good, after you CAREFULLY cut the window in the shell, you'll want to clean up the hole, possibly with a fine file and fine sandpaper. Then, you'll want to dust it to make sure you don't leave any metal or grit to fall into the drive or sharp edges that could cut your hands.

Then, you'll still have to deal with doing a clean job on the window, and after that, if it's an internal drive, you'll have a drive that's going to sit inside a case so your work won't be seen without taking it out.
Anyway, I appreciate the feedback.
Don't give up. I'm just trying to encourage you to think a few more steps into your projects before you start. If you don't learn it, now, you'll get there sooner or later... whichever comes first. 😉

 

All you're saying is that if you want a case window dont DIY just go buy it. Thats just like saying If you want a faster computer buy a faster processor dont OC.

No. I'm saying consider what you're doing, how to do a good clean, attractive job, and have some idea of what the dangers are. Remember, I design circuit boards for products and use a solder iron regularly.

In the case of the LED for the mouse, your guide is a bit short of what you need to consider, including the kind of LED that will work for a given mouse and better info about good soldering technique

In the case of the CD/DVD window, the most important thing is to avoid getting ANY loose particulate chaff from the shell or plex in the drive. Beyond that, if you want it to look really good, after you CAREFULLY cut the window in the shell, you'll want to clean up the hole, possibly with a fine file and fine sandpaper. Then, you'll want to dust it to make sure you don't leave any metal or grit to fall into the drive or sharp edges that could cut your hands.

Then, you'll still have to deal with doing a clean job on the window, and after that, if it's an internal drive, you'll have a drive that's going to sit inside a case so your work won't be seen without taking it out.





The mouse LED guide is a little short but does include the necessary info to complete this mod correctly. "Make sure any LED's you purchase have a minimum luminous intensity or MCD of 500. This is the brightness of the led that is required in most optical mice."

As for the CD window mod the cutting and filing process is done with the cover removed to avoid any metal particles from getting into the internal components.


 
My apologies for coming off harsh at first - remember this forum gets a LOT of traffic and the first post, avatar, and modest advertising came off as one hit wonder spam.

Welcome to AT!
 
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