Cute car! And splendid video. Thanks so much for all the very useful info. The only gear I'll need out of the gate is a good tripod and steadycam rig -any suggestions? Are traditional fluid head video tripods ok, or does the reduction in weight have an impact?
Also - I'm used to shooting both on camera sound (using a beachtek xlr adapter) or to say minidisk (back in the day, I'd use solid state now) - so it's not a major concern, but are their any accessories out there that let you hook up XLR mics + provide phantom power?
I'm quite a few months from making a real decision but this is helping me tremendously - gotta set a budget and save!
Stabilization:
Tripod - I have a Velbon DV-7000. I don't believe these are made anymore, however. But it's a nice, cheap setup if you can find it (metal legs & basic fluid head). Manfrotto came out with a dSLR head (701HDV) but I've heard mixed things about it. If you can save up for it, my recommendation would be to get a heavier-duty fluid head so that you can eventually strap on things like a 3D head, glidetrack, etc., as well as support the weight of any future mods like external LCDs, large lenses, matteboxes, follow focus mechanisms, etc.
Steadicam - best on the market for dSLR cameras is the Blackbird from Camera Motion LLC. Full kit is $675. The Tiffen Merlin is the other primary alternative for serious steadicam work, but it's way too finicky. Also, the Blackbird is compatible with the Tiffen vest & arm, so if you ever want to get really serious about steadicam work, there's a nice upgrade path for you. I have one and absolutely LOVE it. Takes a lot of practice but your footage looks A+. Here's the website:
http://www.camotionllc.com/
You'll want to get a good wide-angle lens for use with the steadicam. The stock 18-55mm does pretty well at 18-20mm; you might also consider the Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 (around $600). Rokinon makes a nice 8mm fisheye for under $300 if you want some more interesting shots.
My favorite tool in my video toolbox is the Glidetrack Shooter. It's a little pricey, but it's super super cool. It's a sliding track that also doubles as a basic shoulder mount. You can put it on any flat surface as well as a tripod. It makes any shot instantly more interesting and isn't very big at all. I went with the 0.5-meter size so that it'd be more portable. You can make your own if you're handy (it uses a machine tool track), but since the Glidetrack already comes with CNC-machined ends, tapped holes, pivot handles, etc. it was just easier for me to go with a pre-made model:
http://www.glidetrack.com/products/glidetrack-shooter.html
Audio:
The T2i has a couple downfalls with audio: first, it's not very good (on-camera audio is never what I'd call "great"), and second, it has AGC (automatic gain control), which means you can't set the level of the audio and then record - it adapts based on the volume it receives. This can be super annoying when you're trying to record things a certain way and the camera tries to figure it out for you. There are a couple solutions...
The first is a Beachtek controller, the DXA-SLR. This has an AGC-disable feature, as well as two XLR inputs that also provide phantom power. There is also a minijack input for hooking up a power mic (like if you have a battery-powered lav) or a wireless mic (like a Sennheiser G-series or Lectronics setup). It has trim & volume dials, minijack out to the camera, metal body, etc. etc. Pretty nice little unit, but also pretty spendy at $399:
http://www.beachtek.com/dxaslr.html
The Beachtek is nice, but expensive - and you're still limited to in-camera audio recording, which isn't that great if you want serious audio. So the second option is to record to a dedicated recorder and then sync in post. The good news is that if you use Final Cut Pro, Adobe Premier, or Sony Vegas, there's a magic plugin that will do a pretty awesome job of syncing on-camera sound with externally-recorded sound. It's called PluralEyes and it goes for $149:
http://www.singularsoftware.com/pluraleyes.html
It's an extra step, but if you want great audio and are willing to go through the extra work of using a separate recording system, I haven't found anything better than this. As far as recorders go, there's quite a few to choose from. If you want XLR inputs and are on a budget, the Zoom H4n is the best option. You can get these new on eBay for around $320 with a nice kit (memory card, wired remote, etc.). You can also use the built-in mics for recording ambience and room tone, although I'd HIGHLY recommend picking up a Redhead Windscreen for that:
http://www.redheadwindscreens.com/
I have a Zoom H2 (smaller minijack-input model) and it's really fabulous for what it is; just make sure you get a Redhead windscreen if you get one - it's practically required lol. Now, Zoom also just barely released a $99 recorder called the Zoom H1, which from what I've read sounds as good as or better than the H2, in a much smaller format. This would also make a nice "wireless" interview mic that you can sync in post later:
http://www.samsontech.com/products/productpage.cfm?prodID=2053
If you want "serious" audio, the minimum recorded I'd recommend is the Marantz PMD661. It's a little pricier at $599, but it's uber uber quiet - an entry-level professional audio tool. You can get it with a wired remote & memory card for around $680 from B&H. I'd also recommend getting a compact mixer to go with that to easily control levels. The minimum I'd go with is the Sound Devices 302, which goes for $1300:
http://www.sounddevices.com/products/302master.htm
Don't bother with the MixPre (cheaper model with fewer features), the 302 is really the route to go if you have the funds for a decent audio kit. So there's a few options, depending on your goals & budget: Beachtek if you want on-camera audio, PluralEyes if you want easy off-camera audio sync, Zoom H1 for a small, portable recorder, Zoom H4n for an inexpensive XLR recorder, and PMD661 for a high-quality XLR recorder with an SD302 if you want a serious mixer. Sound Devices makes a lot of great recorders, but they start getting into the $1900+ range, so unless you're doing it for a living or have money to burn, you can get away with the cheaper stuff and get pretty great results on a budget.